Metallica (Premium)
Stern, 2013
Metallica (Pro)
Stern, 2013You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider MJW.
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Quoted from flashburn:Here you go:http://marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=a-17986
Not sure if it will also work for Iron Man. I've played about 10 games on Metallica since putting in this armature, and only once on each side has the ball been rejected. Before it was almost 95% of the time.
Sorry for the dumb question but what does is matter if post is plastic or metal. How does it improve the problem? I disabled mine because I gotso sick of it. Thanks
Quoted from MustangPaul:If you put all that on you won't be able to see the ball.
I know what you mean.
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image-616.jpgQuoted from MustangPaul:I have it on my Refinery Met Pro and love it. Here is where I put mine. I bent the MDM mounting support so the viewing angle is perfect. The hex post is from a PBB double spot light and works perfectly. I have one for my ST Pro also but haven't put it on yet.
What's a pbb Paul?
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W
Quoted from MustangPaul:I have it on my Refinery Met Pro and love it. Here is where I put mine. I bent the MDM mounting support so the viewing angle is perfect. The hex post is from a PBB double spot light and works perfectly. I have one for my ST Pro also but haven't put it on yet.
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Paul, what is a PBB?
Quoted from MJW:Green fluorescent lane protectors and sling shots for sale. Includes non floresent sparky protector that is larger than factory to add better protection. $20.00 For all .Used.
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge). Left bottom is factory to show how much longer improved sparky protector is.
Sold. Pending payment.
Quoted from TimeBandit:Stand up the playfield. Bottom right as you look at it,
Probably this connector right here..
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Thanks for the suggestion. Reseated connector and still no g.i. I'll keep looking.
Discovered on my mustang that if I disconnect this phone jack looking connector I lose all g.i. I reseated my Metallica ones and made no difference. The wires go to a board under the playfield. I am thinking that board may be bad and will try to switch it out from on known good one on ac/dc or mustang.
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image-631.jpgQuoted from TimeBandit:It might just be the cable. If the GI control board loses contact with the CPU the GI stays in the last state it was in before it lost contact. Pulling that cable shouldn't automatically blank the GI. If the cable is dodgey and lost contact during a blackout moment then the lights would not come back on. likewise if you pull it while the lights are on they won't turn off when they are supposed to.
Ok thanks. Was not aware of that.
Quoted from Sparky:Mark, call 1-800-kickers and talk to Chaz at Stern. Take all the guess-work out of it.
Spoke to Chaz, he agrees that the led control board under the play field may be the problem, then switch out the telephone cable that goes into it.
Swapped cables from working game and still no g.i. Before switching led boards I decided to look through manual. This led control board is driver board 520-5331-00 under playfield.
Schematics had power wires going to rectifier and heat sink assy in backbox. This then has a 5amp sb fuse. Replaced fuse and g.i. Back on for now. Not sure what blew the fuse and if tub will blow again.
I was only looking at the CPU fuses marked g.i and did not even test the fuse that was out blown.
Hope this helps someone if happens to them
Quoted from Sparky:Check to see if any wires are getting pinched or rubbing on the support rails as you raise/lower. Especially way in the back corners.
Thanks Mark, searching......
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:Just received my custom shooter rod! Fits the theme perfect! If interested pm "kpull" pinside member making these, not sure for how long though.
Quick question, when taking the stock shooter rod out noticed there was no "sleeve", is there no sleeve in the shooter housing on Stern's?1546028_10203816086032356_5788729849751833190_n.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
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Stern does not use the plastic shooter sleeve like older games have. It is a metal sleeve. Not sure if brass or what they use. Nice game. I have refinery prem 007. (I'm a bond fan )
Quoted from Aurich:Dang, check out those fly coin reject decals!
Those are yours of course. Great price. Lol. Thanks again. Also love the hammer but should have asked for 007.
image.jpgQuoted from burningman:looks like Aurich made them up
Correct. All from Aurich. Snake eye LEDs were made by hooked. This game has a huge list of mods. Very custom game even after Refinery treatment.
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:that hammer is badass!!
Aurich limited edition run of 30.
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:would like a coin door decal as well. Where you get those?
Got this from a Pinsider right when Metallica was coming out. Don't remember his name. Looks better than stock decal in my opinion.
Maybe he's reading this thread or someone else remembers who made them for pinside Metallica owners.
Quoted from MJW:Got this from a Pinsider right when Metallica was coming out. Don't remember his name. Looks better than stock decal in my opinion.
Maybe he's reading this thread or someone else remembers who made them for pinside Metallica owners.
Pinsider was dito. Maybe PM him. I found the thread and posted on it so you guys could find it. I don't know how to send a link to a thread.
Thread is called metallica pinball brushed aluminum coin door decal.
Quoted from Aurich:Best I could have done would have been 7. The "/30" was lasered in as part of the edition.
That would of worked. Oh well.
Quoted from Jaybird815:Are they being caught every once in awhile? Or never?
Never being caught. Now I notice all magnets not working. Checked fuse f7 in backbox and 4amp is blown. Installed circuit breaker and trips after hearing the hammer magnet make noise. If I disconnect hammer magnet connection from the magnet board under playfield fuse does not blow. I have the revised magnet board that helped with dropping the hammer at the right times. I'm thinking the board is bad. Any thoughts?
Quoted from stevevt:The fuse is in the backbox, along with a very handy chart that shows what's what.
Thanks for the help.I appreciate it . Above post was for you.
Quoted from sudsy7:I'm guessing the transistor is shorted on the board. You had the magnet disconnected from the circuit, so current draw was not high enough to blow the fuse. The circuit on the magnet board is not designed to be "on" for long periods, so it heated up until something opened it. I bet if you replaced the transistor (and the charred resistor), it will work again.
Thanks for your help !!!! I don't know if I have the ability to fix the board but I guess I have nothing to lose. I don't know how these Sterns hold up on routes. I have three HUO and constantly having issues. Just replaced an ac/dc drop target opto board.
Ive had the game for a couple of years and stern did send my distributor the improved board free .it helped with the hammer fall issue. I had to send in my old one. I'm way out of warranty . Chaz is a good guy but I doubt he could help. Marco has them for $70.00. I'll report if it fixes my problem. It would be horrible to not have Pinside. Always nice to get some help. I try to help out other guys also when I can. I think it's important to post solutions to help the next guy who is trying to figure out why his game isn't working. Some guys don't. Thanks again.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:Magnet issues for fuses, not just the magnet board itself are common, if the game gets played frequently.
It can be attributed to many factors, including momentary shorts on the magnet coils themselves.
This has happened to many games that use this feature, The Shadow and TAF come to mind.
I still recommend inline fuse protection for all three magnets on this game in the long haul.
Keep in mind how many "mods" you install in your game as well, as this can contribute to problems, but generally that is "down the road".
Could you show a picture of your magnet in line fuse protection? Sounds like a good idea. I also like your lists of spare parts you posted previously in this thread for this game. Expensive now but maybe impossible to find years from now.
Quoted from sudsy7:Call Stern and explain what happened - if it's a relatively new game, they should send you a new board free of charge. If not, I think a new board is about $60-$70. Don't throw the old one away - it can be repaired.
New magnet board from Marco fixed problem of blowing 4a fuse and all magnets not working. I'm back in business. Will save old board to get repaired as spare.
Quoted from damageinc55:For the pickier pinsiders, I've designed a drop in mod that drastically reduces the light bleed around cross inserts. Check them out. Thanks
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1087-wcp/00873-cross-pattern-light-blocking-insert-metallica-pinball
Never noticed this until you pointed it out. Now it bothers me. Lol.
Quoted from dnapac:I recently had to replace my playfield because of ghosting (thankful Stern stood behind it and sent me a new one). I had a custom painted Sparky I took off before sending the old playfield back. They sent a completely populated playfield...including an original Sparky (now I have an extra). The paint on the feet of the custom Sparky is beat up (not surprising), but what really concerned me was the amount of cracking of the old Sparky's feet. One was just about to crack in half. I reinforced them with glue, but don't know how long that will last. We need to brainstorm as to how to protect his feet from the metal ball. I think this will become a major problem as the Metallica machines age. I thought about clear bumpers or plastics around the feet, but haven't tries anything. Another thought is a Cliffy (not sure he's watching this) to protect his feet.
Wow. I never knew Stern would replace a playfield that is fully populated. Is this normal practice when there is a problem? I always thought if they sent a playfield it was unpopulated. I have no issues on mine, just curious.
Quoted from kcZ:That one bothers the hell out of me as well.
Glad it’s not just me. I started a mod request thread hoping some of the creative modders on Pinside could come up with a solution. If no one has interest I might try to improve it.
Quoted from chuckwurt:EL paper?
Please explain. It’s a metal bracket under there. Thanks.
Quoted from chuckwurt:EL paper?
Are you thinking the light will transfer to the paper if it is placed on top of metal bracket? Is that what you mean? Seems worth trying. Thanks.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Put this inbetween the bracket and the plastic.
I have never used this stuff before though.
ebay.com link
Oh I get it. Sort of like a lit scorecard mod. Interesting idea.
Quoted from kcZ:That one bothers the hell out of me as well.
I got a PM from Vireland .He may take on this project some time in the future. He has made some great mods for Metallica and Iron Maiden so I’m sure he’ll have a nice solution.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:It never bothered me until now, thanks guys. I would buy this mod.
Same thing happened to me when a guy pointed out the cross inserts light were bleeding light. Had to get his mod because it bugged me. Never noticed it until he pointed it out . Plastic inserts under the lights eliminated all
light bleed from the crosses.
Quoted from yzfguy:I don't think they are talking about the mystery insert, bit the plastic over the scoop
Yes. Plastic over the scoop.
Quoted from PinMonk:Have they found a way to hack the Prem/LE spinner functionality into the pro?
Didn’t Robert from hooked on pinball make a kit for this? Thought he added a spinner for pro owners.
Quoted from MJW:Didn’t Robert from hooked on pinball make a kit for this? Thought he added a spinner for pro owners.
$99.95 on his website. Sku. Met-spin
Quoted from sohchx:Hey guys I have a question. Is there a setting that disables the diverter at the top loop? I can't seem to find it in the menus and for some reason the diverter will not raise at all during games. I tested it and it does function but I think I may have disabled it by mistake at some point.
Mine works some games and other games does not come up at all. Weird.
Anyone have issues with rear post divertor? On my game sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. Last time it was working I went into test mode and made it go up about three times then it stopped working. When it is not working during game play I tried test mode and doesn’t work. If it was a bad transitor wouldn’t it not work all the time?
Quoted from mthirkell:The same thing happened to mine. It eventually stopped working completely. Turns out, the coil wire was disconnected. I had to solder it in place. If that’s the problem it will be easy to see.
Thanks guys. Ill check it out . Maybe a loose wire is causing intermittent problems. Can’t hurt to resolder I suppose. Last time I checked coil both wires were connected were connected and coil would not fire.
Quoted from onemoresean:Spinners, knocker, and lit drops for the pro are nice too[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good. Are those regular or transparent targets?
Quoted from onemoresean:I used translucent drop targets.
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/pinballcenter-m-2.html
I also added a translucent orange target[quoted image]
Nice. Got a pic of the lit translucent? I issued eyeball target for piston target.
Quoted from MJW:Nice. I also think Zitt sells white translucent targets. I used eyeball target for piston target.
Quoted from iAmKemo:Does anyone know of a website / pinsider who sells a replacement for the plastic air ball guard for the right ramp? TIA.
Pinsider a few years ago came up with the solution which I think is better. Some guys called the original a Buffett sneeze guard. I prob still have it if you need one. What happened to yours?
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