Joined the club yesterday, what an awesome game.

The modding has begun. We now have an undercabinet rgb light mod tied to the flashers that is fully customizable so you can pick which color of the light strip is associated with which flasher. In my game, I tied the red to the sparky flasher so that every time he is hit, the mod flashes red. I tied blue and green to the left and right ramp flashers so when you hit the ramps, the strip flashes. You can tie them to any other flashers in the game very simply.

These are now available on our website. Installation takes minutes, no tools require. Many more mods coming... Available on our website and through the pinside shop.

http://lermods.com/products/undercabinet-lighting-kit-for-metallica-pinball

The modding possibilities with this game are endless...

Blue backboard light, purple trough light, lighted red eyeballs (camera doesn't pick up the red light well) and a backboard flasher mod that flashes red whenever the pops are hit.

Most available in our pinside shop or our website... Lermods.com. The backboard flasher mod isn't on our website yet, but is the same one we have for Ironman, which is blue.

20161210_180749 (resized).jpg

20161210_180754 (resized).jpg

20161210_193853_001 (resized).jpg

20161210_180745 (resized).jpg

Lit up the snake's mouth, tied to the bulb above the snake. Im new to metallica so not sure if anyone has done this before, probably they have, cool mod.

Mine is just a 3 smd led strip. I put it under the top of his mouth, but it was affecting the angle of the ball eject, going sdtm, so I moved it to the side.

Check the switch, it may be loose. Had similar issue with the snake.

With the playfield up on the pegs, turn game on and put the game in switch test mode. Drop the ball into the scoop. Does it register? If not, manually engage the switch with your finger from underneath the playfield bt pulling it down. Does it now register? If yes, the switch/bracket holding the switch needs to be adjusted. If no, you need a new switch.

Even if it registers with your finger, you still may need a new switch as the trigger point may be too low and it can't be adjusted.

Modified my backbox to remove the fluorescent tube and replaced it with led strips. The center area has rgb color changing and fading effects. sides and bottom are blue, top is orange for fire area and green for metallica lettering, those are lit all the time. Really brightens and evens out the backbox lighting, particularly the outside edges.

Yep, no problem. Power is pulled from the auxillary plug in the front of the cabinet. I have it hooked up two different ways, but off the same controller. One set is on all the time, other set has fading effects. It's a little complicated. There's a lot of soldering involved and in very small spaces.

The effects are very significant. Look how bright the outside edges are. Compare to a stock game.

I'm willing to make these for anyone who wants one, it's plug and play. Takes several hours to make and get right. I can also tie them to flashers if requested. Can be done to any stern.

20161218_144707 (resized).jpg

Screenshot_20161218-174904 (resized).png

Here's my translite mod...

You can get the parts on eBay, you need a 12v rgb strip, controller, remote and power supply, plus any individual color strips you want. Runs off the 12v plug in the game. The mod runs off two circuits, one to allow fading rgb (center area on met) and one so lights are always on. This requies either tapping off the controller or running a separate line and using a 12v splitter. The parts aren't expensive, rgb strip is about $12 and individual colors are about $10, foam poster board and some hardware, but it's very labor intensive and tedious. Takes 3-4 hours to make and there are at least 50 solder points. You need decent soldering skills as soldering wires to an rgb strip isn't that easy and if you screw it up, can take some time finding a short. The tube comes right out as do the brackets that hold it (1 screw)

We sell these on our website for modern non-spike games, but I'm happy to walk people through it if they want to do it themselves, just pm me.

http://lermods.com/p/custom-work

20161218_144707 (resized).jpg

All you need to do to Install the fangs is remove the screw in the back of the snake and remove the one on his head. Then, using a flat head screwdriver, insert it between the metal guide and the front of the snake, pry it up just enough to slide the fangs in being careful not to break anything. It's not ideal, but it works. I was contemplating taking the snake assembly apart, but it looked like a huge PIA. I literally just did this two weeks ago.

Yeah, I forgot to mention, there is a screw on the inside roof of the snake's mouth, you can get to it with a wratchet and a Philipps head bit, not easy, but you only need to loosen it a couple of turns to give more leeway.

Added a lighted coffin to the blank area above the mystery scoop. Tied it to the coffin flasher so it lights when the coffin flasher lights in the middle of the playfield. PM me if interested.

metallica-pinball-illuminated-coffin-mod-1 (resized).JPG
metallica-pinball-illuminated-coffin-mod-2 (resized).JPG

I'd be interested, what do they look like?

Nice, count me in.

I received a pro drop shipped from stern about a month ago. Other than a loose snake switch, I have no issues to report.

Yes, wire it to the 12v plug inside the cabinet by the coindoor. You need a 12v strip as i assume what you got from comet is 6v. I have a 12v strip if you want one and can give you a connector. Im right around the corner from you.

http://lermods.com/products/pinball-led-strip-custom-backbox-light-kit

I bought a met pro in December with a November 2, 2016 date stamp on the playfield that shipped directly from Stern, I have no issues with the playfield. Normal dimpling and no chipping or ghosting issues. In fact, of all the NIB games I've bought, this one required the least amount of adjusting and was almost perfect out of the box. Only thing I had to do was tighten the switch for the snake as it was registering only sporadically.

20170120_154825 (resized).jpg

20170120_154836 (resized).jpg

20170120_154858 (resized).jpg

20170120_154906 (resized).jpg

have fun, the game is a blast to play.

i don't see any stamp indicating who manufactured the playfield.

Guys, chill out, the clear is not lifting, it's a slight discoloration in the wood. Man, people trying to find fire where there's no smoke. I also looked very closely at every single insert, all perfect.

This is lifting...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/183#post-3555549

I do t think so, but I'll keep an eye on it.

Mine hits left flipper every time. If i have flipper up, it will go upnthe inlane and out sometimes, really smooth.

Another pic with apron off...i see no issues with the clear, looks perfect to me.

20170121_151609 (resized).jpg

I put the carbon magnet cliffy on and i have the sparky airball deflector as well as the scoop protector. I like the magnet protector, no airballs from it so far, only on a week.

20170128_074724 (resized).jpg

20170128_074747 (resized).jpg

The wires are there, look inside. Wired the same as the start button.

There are two connections, a molex plug in the front left where shaker is mounted and a brown plug toward the back of the cab. I'll check mine when I get home.

There is a 2 pin molex up front with red wires on it, there should be a brown or grey wire connector toward the back. It's there, search, it can be buried.

The connector attached to the shaker goes into the board that came with your shaker. there is another connector that should have come with the shaker, it contains a red wire and a brown wire. The red wire runs to the 2 pin connector in the front left of the cabinet and the brown wired connector runs to the back of the cabinet. Sounds like you are missing that second connector. Maybe post a pic of what you have.

The two pin connector is not new, its in my ironman too, as well as twd. Metallica does not look any different

that's the exact date stamp of my pro and I have no issues.

If you deactivate it, the ball will almost never be in the pops. Unlike IM, there is no center shot to the pops. Do a search, you can replace the plastic post with a metal one and you won't get as many bounce backs.

Its for a bill validator.

The playfield came to you down and secure so it should be able to go back in. Honestly, what others have said is very accurate. Check the cables in the back carefully and make sure nothing is bunched up. This could also be the issue with your head not aligning. I would lift the playfield all the way and inspect the rails they slide on, make sure nothing is getting stuck in there, particularly in the back. Playfields can be stiff and sometimes you just need a little force to push them back and then down.

New high score on 3 ball with a couple of extra balls at 20 mil and 150 mil. I had a ciu shot of 51 mil to the scoop.

Previous 5 games i couldnt break 15 mil.

20170220_141112 (resized).jpg

What is the part number or can someone post a link for the metal post? Thx

I installed the metal post at the top today, much better. I had no roll backs. First game I played, broke 300 million. My game is set to 3 ball with a couple of fixed interval extra balls, rest is factory.

An extra ball at 20 mil and 150 mil for metallica is hardly the same as 5 ball. I doubt many people could score 300 mil on 5 ball. The lower interval is set for my kids to give them something to shoot for.

Just installed the cemetery arch from Mezel Mods, looks fantastic, what a great addition to my game!

BTW, I never noticed there was no LED bulb on the left side of the cemetery, yet there are two bulbs on the right side? what's up with that?

20170227_211113 (resized).jpg

Go back a page or so, I flagged this exact same thing. No bulb on left, but right side has two.

That's a great deal, you stole it basically. Someone took a big hit at that price. These have been going for around 4800-5200 depending on mods, assuming nice game.

Is that an LCD DMD? Looks awesome. What mode is it in?

I had eotl ready last night, based on what the dmd said, but i didnt know how to start it. Seemed I may have needed to hit a pic or two??

The scoop was not lit. Maybe I misread the dmd, but it did say something about eotl being ready. Maybe it said x more hits to start eotl? I couldn't figure out and the animation was gone.

Came up with a new mod for the pro version to keep track of the locked balls. Yeah, I know it's cigarette case, modding this thing was no picnic. I painted the face silver metallic, added three sets of leds (video shows four as it was a prototype), production mod has three. It's tied to the three lock ball lights underneath. I could never tell how many balls I had locked as the lights underneath were always blurry. Now I can.

I prefer Aerosmith music to Metallica music, but I much prefer met to AS. it will depend on what stern does with the code, which feels very flat right now. Met code is a work of art. I got no rush when playing AS, but we all know how much of a rush met can be when you get it going. The toy box is cool.

Not a good way to start the day..just exploded when I was pulling it off, must have just enough flex to explode it. Quite a show actually, never had it happen before. Luckily all the glass exploded when it was 3/4 off so most went on the floor. I guess it's a good excuse to buy a sheet of invisiglass

20170526_081635 (resized).jpg

Changing that post fixed bounce backs 100%. It never happens anymore. Stern just doesn't care. It's a $10 part from pbl, had stern bought in bulk it probably would have cost them $1 or less each.

The lanes are important to complete. The pop up is active on most left orbit shots, not sure exactly when, but without it you won't see the lanes as much.

GC at pintastic...not my best, but good enough for today. 262 mil.
I

20170707_185422 (resized).jpg

i might be wrong here, but I thought Metallica used a Rev B shaker?

You can try to use an led ight strip and a different color for each figure, tied to gi if you want steady light or tied to flashers for a more interactive mod. Plenty of flashers in Metallica to work with. Or you can do both, steady backlighting always on with individual strips tied to flashers. Let me know if you need help.

Crap, I thought for sure I had you pegged as a Carpenters guy.

I believe you need to remove the surrounding plastic and feed it underneath a bit off to the side.

Freeze time

That’s not it, that’s only if you open the coin door, for example, to free a stuck ball. It’s freeze time on tspp, on my twd, it’s called ball save time.

The shoot again insert between the flippers will blink when ball save is active. On tspp it is called freeze time. You can set the number of seconds it is active, 5-7 is a good ball save for home use.

It is wired exactly like the start button. The diode and one wire need to be soldered on, other wires are spade connectors already in the game.

Check the manual, but I Think it’s 1n4004 or 1n4001.

Squeaky shaker motor, if you have one.

We’ve got a couple of these ball lock coffins available. Keeps track of your ball locks. Lock one ball a set of eyes light, lock ball two a second set lights, etc. video shows four sets, it was a prototype, production unit has three sets of lights, red, green and blue.

Available on our website or pinside shop...

Funny you ask, though not a premium, I bought a Metallica pro led from a friend yesterday. It’s the only game I’ve ever owned twice. Love the game. It was pretty much stock except for a color dmd and I’ve been busy modding it with undercab lights, led backbox and a bunch of other things. Ordering a shaker and mirrors for it tomorrow.

image (resized).jpg

I’m the opposite, my 15 year old loves it, one of the reasons I bought it back.

Very late off the left flipper. It’s not an easy shot for me, but makeable. I have a harder time with the piston target.

It’s easier to hit when extra ball and ciu are not lit

I own Met pro and AFM SE and owned JP pro. I would rate AFM at the top, it's just great at what it does and it never gets old blowing up the space ship. The issue with Metallica is the music as it has no reflection on the game, you pick a song and it plays the entire game, has nothing to do with game play until you get to CIU. So if you don't like Met music, you may not like it. I never liked Metallica music until I got the game, now I can tolerate it. It should have been coded like ACDC and AS where songs change in the game. That said, the rules on Met are top notch and it plays fantastic. JP pro to me was good, but not one of my favorites. It has a unique layout and good rule set, but the theme integration just wasn't for me.

yes, there is some, I mentioned CIU, for example. in general, you pick a song at the beginning and it plays over and over the entire game. That's not my preference on how it should be.

how does the song you pick at the beginning of the game have anything to do with game play?

Acdc and AS change songs during the game and are associated with modes. I choose back in black at the beginning of the game, it's immediately associated with a mode and I then can change the song once i light the jukebox. If I choose enter sandman at the beginning of the game, how does that have anything to do with the game. And you can never change it. Only time you hear a different song is when you get a certain mode like CIU, and those are far and few between, but then it reverts back to that original song when the mode is over. What have I got wrong, I'm being serious.

does the flipper drop down when the game is turned off? if so, it is almost certainly a blown transistor. The transistor is Q15 according to the manual and you need need STP22NE10L, which can be found at Marco https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/STP22NE10L or other suppliers. as for testing the transistor, check pinwiki, but if I recall, you should not get continuity across the legs.

thx. the coils have different transistors associated with them so there is no need to touch the other flipper, unless it has an issue or it's time for a rebuild. I would just replace q15 and the coil and sleeve on the left flipper. Sometimes, transistors will just blow, but many times something causes it so look around for any shorts, could have been the coil itself causing the issue. through hole basically means the legs on the transistor go through the holes on the board, which is much easier to repair compared to surface mounted components.

We use a 3-d printed mount that tilts to help shine the light up through the playfield. We use our own led strip to produce the light. The mount adheres to the metal bracket just behind the drop targets. Seems to work well. I used red.

IMG_20200402_153334 (resized).jpg

00100dPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20200402152819259_COVER (resized).jpg

00100dPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20200402153532765_COVER (resized).jpg

Pretty easy to put lights on the top, interactive, static, whatever. Layout a design you want and I'll help you with it.

Being home provides me with some additional time to work on mods. Been wanting to do this one for a while, it's a skull mod that interacts with the extra ball and crank it up lamps. That area is a bit bare and there is the ugly plastic, which I can't exactly tell what it's for since there are no issues with balls flying off the ramp. looks like a sneeze guard. In any case, the skull can be installed with or without the plastic in place. Available on our site and in our pinside shop shortly...
https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fmetallica-pinball-interactive-illuminated-skull

no offense taken at all, it's all good, appreciate the feedback, otherwise I would not have posted it.

I’d spray some pb blast on it and let it soak for an hour. Then give it another shot.

not sure where you got the back box and undercab lights, but those almost certainly are not tied to the GI (likely 12v) and would not be causing the issue you describe. the other mods you list draw very little power, but what I would do is unhook all of them and see if the strobing persists. If it does, you know it's not the mods. If it doesn't, add the mods back one by one to see when the problem begins.

Plugging in your spike flipper buttons to a Sam plug should not harm anything, both are 12v. the flipper buttons just wont light if the polarity is reversed. It’s when a short occurs you run into issues, but that would mainly be a blown fuse. Should have nothing to do with your switch matrix. Is it possible your flipper button lights touched the flipper switch and caused a short?

If you have a spike set up for the flipper buttons, how is it even possible to plug into Sam as the connections are a different size.

Weird the connector would say spike and have the sam connector. That connector isn’t compatible with a spike game. Can you post a pic of the connector and the mod? Spike games often utilize 5v and the wiring is backwards relative to Sam, but not sure how it could cause switch issues. Even if it shorted, you’d blow a fuse.

It is possible something touched the flipper switches and caused the issue, that’s why a pic of the install might help.

That’s very odd someone would sell a spike mod with that connection since that connection doesn’t exist in a spike game. If you have an external 12v power source, you could test them.

Put a carbon cliffy around the magnet to cover up the wear.

Sparky’s foot broke off mine too. I used jb weld and attached a flat metal bracket to the piece that broke and his heel to fix it and it’s been fine ever since. Surprised more haven’t broken off, area takes a beating.

I use the quick set.

The scoring is a mess in iron man, extremely unbalanced. The game shoots well, but unless you get to Jericho or the DoD hurry up, your scores will never break much above 30 mil. It’s more about progression, but parts of the game are not attainable on 3 ball, at least not by a mere mortal. Metallica is a much more balanced and fun game.

Did you change dip switch 8?

Did you try a different stick? Also, what size stick are you using? I think it’s supposed to be 8gb.

i'd remove the bolts, heat up the decal with a hair dryer or heat gun and try to smooth it out by pushing the air out where the bolt holes are with a credit card..

I think others have made cross mods, but we designed our own and made them a little interactive by tying them into the two top inlane inserts.

PXL_20210429_181339951.NIGHT (resized).jpg

Don't see why it wouldn't. Is there anything different on the premium in that area? They mount to the screw holding the front star post down.

They are up on our site now. I think $35 shipped is reasonable.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/metallica-pinball-interactive-cross-set

I can do them in red, green, blue, ice blue, purple, warm and cool white. Choice available on our site.

These are plug and play, 5 min install.

I think Steve at pinball refinery made them. HemiOrange09

Are you sure you put all the connectors back where they belong. Did you miss a connector, maybe it’s behind the board? Are all the fuse leds on the board lit?

hopefully it stays that way, maybe something just wasn't making a good connection. Glad it's fixed and working again!

btw, when the coin door is open, some of the fuse lights will be off as high power (50v) is killed when the door is open.

Good choice, I had mine done in a similar color, illusion purple.

mine too.

I have the Mezelmods fangs too, no issues.

It’s 12v, but you need an inverter to power the el wire. Not sure how this specific mod is wired, but you could potentially power it off the sparky spotlight flasher.

I’d pass on that game, something isn’t right. It’s like the magnet was tightened and pulled the playfield in. Not sure how that game could be playable as There would be airballs into sparky.

Check the target between his feet, might be gapped too tightly.

What switches are showing as active in the switch matrix?

The bulbs under the sling shots and along the flippers are all #44 style bulbs, also on the outside. Stern didn’t change lighting design across games, just switched to led bulbs. Circled areas contain 44 bulbs.

A8559FE4-98D7-4EC7-B967-B5776043D06B (resized).jpeg