If you work on pinball machines that are not NIB, I would use a left hand drill bit over an easy out. It is a drillbit that is threaded backwards so as you drill, if it bites it will unscrew the screw. I got it to remove an easy out that I broke off in a car block and use it all the time on rusted pinball machine screws that break off.

use about 1/2 and then 3/4 of the size of the screw and see if it easily solves your problem. I got my set at HF very cheap (it is a NEIKO 13 piece left-hand drilll bit set) #10038A

I thought V1.7 (which I haven't installed) fixed this. Someone should check

From readme - - Fuel lane now awards 1 blown piston for each lit light, instead of
1 blown piston for all three lit lights.

Everyone has given the probable answer but I just want to add in the years I have had games or serviced them in arcades, the coil is not bad unless it blows a fuse (diode usually) or you can't remove the coil sleeve. It is usually the coil sleeve or plunger or the pivot has been tightened without a gap. Oh or someone added oil. But on NIB that is not the problem.

People may so no biggie but the game usually doesn't flip consistently once you get that. My MET has 2000+ games and no buzz yet. Once my ACDC started that the edge shots (ACDC bank, orbits, ROCK bank) went to crap. If it is new, ask STERN to fix it, I find they have been great. If not, it is usually bending the stop or replacing. Don't put up with it.

Remember when there was talk about RTLLE like MOPLE? I was always hoping for a vault that had this like the SM vault. But no way now with all the games coming out and the switch to spike.