Maricopa, AZ
Burn that translite......
(Topic ID: 50762)
Linked Games
Metallica (Premium)
Stern, 2013-
Metallica (Pro)
Stern, 2013
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2 weeks later
Quoted from ZippyThePinhead:That's pretty cool. With the color it made me see details in the animation that I had never noticed before!
That's exactly what I said when I put a color DMD in my LOTR.... and I've been playing that for over 10 years.
I guess that's why they have so much of my money.
2 weeks later
Dont bother with machining, just take it out and sand it flat. You can polish it afterwards if you want as well. My palm sander made short work of the TZ cores when I did them.
Just my Bosch random orbit sander. I believe I used 80 or 100 and then got finer. Yea I knocked the edges down some. Then I polished them up. Only took about 20 min or so.
1 week later
Quoted from Sparky:coffin decal for pro (I can't get ahold of the guy on Pinside who sells these)
No need to talk to him. If you want them, just order via his site and you'll get them in a week or two.
1 week later
I don't believe they do and the cemetery Arch barley does with a slight bend around the arch but it will be touching.
2 weeks later
2 months later
Quoted from Butch2099:Finally got mine open, all my mods on & got to play a game tonight. Only issue is the ball when I plunge it, doesn't go far or jumps over the rail & drains. I'm thinking it's the shooter rod because when it auto launches it travels fine. Anyone else have this problem? Solution?
It's the cliffy eject protector, the one under the pf support rail. Adjust that to not protrude into the shooter lane.
Quoted from Butch2099:Thx, I'll try that 1st. I was thinking that but the auto shooter launches it fine..
Yep, mine did the exact same thing. Unfortunately with the bent design of the piece that goes under the support rail, it was unusable to me. In both ST and Met, no matter how many times I reset it, the vibrations of a few games would work it back out into the shooter lane. I finally had to give up and remove the outside piece on both pins.
1 year later
Quoted from chuckcasey:My Met Pro arrives in a a few weeks. Do I need the sparky protector? And if I do, where can I get one? Pinbits is sold out and I can't seem to find it anywhere else (in the US).
Thanks and.... happy to be joining the club in a few weeks.
If you don't already have a plastic protector set, just get the whole set from pinbits which includes the sparky (I have the set with the green below and like it). If you already do, have you tried emailing them on just that piece?
1 week later
Quoted from Thanos75:I have been noticing that after the Sparky magnet catches a ball and holds it that sometimes the ball sticks after the magnet is released. It doesn't happen everytime and when it does it just takes a shake or another ball hitting it to knock it loose. Could one of the balls have become magnetized? Also I tried... Alone....to install those Blade graphics. One went on pretty good the other I made a total disaster with. I just have a pro so I don't have those fancy table legs and I couldn't find a good position for the playfield to get a good alignment on those. I will remove and try again and this time with help.
I've always done mine with help with no issues. Just rest the playfield bracket on the front edge of the cabinet and have someone push down to lift it up.
The wife knows the drill now and is pretty patient with me while I obsess about perfect alignment lol
1 month later
Quoted from DatNoobAdam:Hey guys,
I did about an hour of searching and didn't find anything so I'm assuming the game is acting as it should, but wanted to ask anyway for clarification... Are the grave marker drop targets supposed to reset frequently? I can have 2 or 3 turn and hit a snake shot or ramp shot and it'll click like 3 times and reset them. Seems odd that a shot that's already as difficult as that one would reset itself within the same ball. Just got the machine Thursday so wanted to make sure that's how it's supposed to act. Thanks!
Yes, it is acting as it should. Those were knocked down during a multi-ball and then once you're back to one ball as soon as it knows it's safe to reset, it will do it. That's either when it hits the scoop or a ramp and it knows the ball won't be at risk of being in there when they pop up.
Quoted from RoyF:Recent Metallica owner. I've noticed it is easy to get air balls on the ricochet off Sparky's feet. Is this normal? Any way to reduce this?
Most of us with that issue now have a sparky extended protector. I got mine from Pinbits but there are other available.
Quoted from RoyF:How does that protector work to prevent the airballs? Its difficult to say looking at the Pinbits site since I can't see a picture of the protector. Perhaps a picture of the protector installed on a game would help me see it, if someone could post such a picture.
It's a little longer than the stock clear plastic already there allowing it to provide a ceiling for the air balls to hit and be brought back down to the pf.
2 weeks later
Quoted from finnflash:You can change the names also
If you do, what does it look like with a color dmd?
Quoted from yzfguy:More colorful
I thought the color DMD coding had match the original code to be colored? Isn't that why certain frames aren't colored after a new code update?
2 weeks later
Quoted from pinballdork:All the rail bolts seem tight, but I have not removed them and checked the holes for slop... Hopefully i can check tonight. When I got the machine and after I leveled the playfield, the cabinet head and cabinet was way out of level. Visually it was quite obvious with the machine sitting between two other pins. I never investigated further... thanks all. Granny boobs and all.
Could the deacals have been installed cheating up and as the decal moved to match the pull of the adhesive, snagged on the bolts. I've seen similar on re-decal cabs installed bottom to top and pulled too tight to remove bubbles vs the front to back method.
Just a thought.
2 weeks later
Quoted from roddog:Sooooo. I had an 8 amp slow blow fuse burn out on me. No biggie, right? Bought like 5 more from marcos. BUT! Every time I replaced it, it blew out instantly again. Any advice here? I got no idea what is going on. And now I gotta buy more and wait for shipping
.
Without solving the short, you'll just continue to blow fuses. Look at the circuit diagram in the manual and see where all that line runs. Something is touching something it shouldn't.
2 weeks later
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:They do, for the low low price of $289+shipping
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-9810-00
Total light show, hooked spinners, rising cross, etc, and I was going to be close to the price of a premium. So I just sold my pro and bought a HUO prem with some mods and PC armor for a few hundred more. Absolutly love the hammer coffin lock too.
1 week later
Quoted from bent98:I am having issues about 25% of the time with launching the ball into the orbit. It happens with auto launch or hand launch.
» YouTube video
Sometimes it hits the side of the rail before its exits.
Looks like the ball isn't being driven 100% straight each time. Step one is the remove the cliffy's in the shooter lane and reattempt. When the cliffys elevate the ball off the shooter lane, all kinds of crazy things can happen. They have to be in there just right to protect but not cause the ball to go nuts.
I'd try that first.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:Good luck moving that trough side cliffy after it's installed. The adhesive is strong and any bend upward in the cliffy will eventually pop back up.
The newest ones have that problem resolved. It's just a tiny metal tab that drives up into the rail to keep it in place. Quite ingenious. Of course the V1 just used the pressure to keep it in place, unfortunately mine would always work their way into the shooter lane causing things like the above post and much much worse including launching it like a catapult into the glass.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Look straight down at the ball and manually push in the launch solenoid slowly with your finger. You want to see the two sides of the launch "fork" contact the ball at the exact same time. I recently had to bend mine after it had worked perfectly for thousands of games. If it needs bending, you'll have to take the entire mech apart and use some very strong set of pliers, or a vise. That is some very strong steel!
He says it's also happening with a manual launch. That would steer it to something that could affect either type of plunge. I've definitely seen this as well though which was indicated by it plunging very differently between auto and manual.
Quoted from yzfguy:Linky no worky
That happens when an item sells out on Terry's site sometimes. It looks to be sold out pretty much everywhere. I'd go through my distro and have them order it.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-6801-00
http://www.sternpinball.com/service-bulletins/service-bulletin-182-metallica
1 week later
Quoted from Monk:I know this has probably been answered before, but I tried to search for it and found nothing. Let me preface this with I plan to purchase the pinnovaters connection kit, but how do I use the speaker wire to hook up an external sub. The Polk sub has a hookup for left and right speaker which would be a total of 4 wires.
So which one:
1. Use one speaker cable (2 wires, red and silver) and only plug into the left OR the right input in the sub
2. Use 2 speaker cable (4 wires) two silvers on one of the existing sub connection and two reds on the other existing sub connection. Then connect 1 speaker cable to the left input and the other to the right input on the sub
I'm not sure anyone is going to understand what I'm trying to say.
The kit comes with a 3.5mm plug and 3.5mm to rca plug so you'll be using the the rca connections.
No sweat to anyone buying the kit, I just can't spend half the price of the sub to hook it up when I can just jump it on to the sub terminals for practically free.
Quoted from KJL:If you work on pinball machines that are not NIB, I would use a left hand drill bit over an easy out. It is a drillbit that is threaded backwards so as you drill, if it bites it will unscrew the screw. I got it to remove an easy out that I broke off in a car block and use it all the time on rusted pinball machine screws that break off.
use about 1/2 and then 3/4 of the size of the screw and see if it easily solves your problem. I got my set at HF very cheap (it is a NEIKO 13 piece left-hand drilll bit set) #10038A
I second the left hand drill bit recommendation. I have an entire set and love them. It's worth the price of a decent set the one time it saves your butt.
Quoted from davids1024:Well...I thought I was going to buy a Star Wars Premium, but after playing the star wars pro multiple times at Pintastic a couple of weeks ago, I was underwhelmed. I was on a mission to play everything I could and find a PB that I liked enough to buy my first NIB (I currently have a Star Trek Premium bought used as an fyi).
Well after two days of playing everything on the floor I have to say that Metallica Premium came out on top. I really enjoyed the game more than any other I played. Cointaker was also at the show and gave me a good price for a NIB Metallica Premium.
I will probably make the purchase by the end of the week, does anyone have any comments to share on a NIB Metallica Premium or must have mods?
Thx...
I had a pro and upgraded to a premium. I love the light show and the hammer. I would say the top mods for me was a shaker, color DMD, and custom painted sparky & hammer to give it that personal touch.
Quoted from gliebig:What are those rails with the lightning bolt images for on your game? I've seen them on several MET's but I can't figure out what they are.
Quoted from davids1024:One of my first mods when I receive my Metallica Premium will be adding a shaker motor. I see that Stern and a lot of third parties sell them. Are they all the same or are some better than others?
I use and only use Stern shaker motors. The rest are way to violent for my taste without modification. Imo, there has never been a need to install an adjustment dial on a Stern shaker. You can always turn it down in the options menu. Don't forget to pick it up from Terry at pinball life.
Quoted from shelby1000:That actually sounds pretty cool. I'm thinking of Metallica Premium and I would probably want that feature for it as long as it doesn't cause any vibration damage to the cabinet or components over time. I guess that would be the only concern that I have but I guess these games are designed for that.
I love them as well especially when used creatively with the lighting/music. It can significantly add to the immersion of the theme.
As long as you buy a Stern shaker from somebody like pinball life, you'll be absolutely fine. The other aftermarket ones can be overly strong and require modification to tame them.
Quoted from shelby1000:Yeah that actually does look really good. Maybe I will get a NIB premium. I didn't think that there would be any NIBs left but I'll look into it and see what kind of a deal I could get. Maybe have them throw in the stern shaker with it. I really wish that I could have more than just three pinballs at a time. I don't have a dedicated room for my machines.
I love my monsters premium, highly recommended.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Guzz4851:Anyone have the spinner mod on their pro? Trying to figure out if it's worth the 100 bucks or so...
I think it's a cool sound effect, I liked it on my pro. I ended up upgrading to a premium and the premium is better since it's tied into scores and animation but it's still a nice add on.
2 months later
Quoted from konghusker:You guys think it's worth upgrading from a tricked out pro to a premium on this game? Thinking of selling my pro for something different, but then started thinking about the monster edition instead. Just curious if it's worth the extra money.
I did exactly this. I removed all my mods, sold my pro, and bought a HUO premium then put the mods back on. I absolutely love the hammer followed by the light show and snake jaw then cross in my order of enjoyment for the prem. Don't regret it in the least.
Quoted from konghusker:Ordered my first sub for a pinball machine today. Got the polk 10" specifically for Metallica. I assume alligator clips on to existing sub in cabinet is all I hook on to
Yep, there are other options but that's how I roll.
1 week later
Quoted from PinballRulez:I recently installed a playfield protector on my Metallica Pro.
Now I have to adjust the height for both the drop targets as the diverter post (I will replace the plastic with an iron one). For the latter I found this useful link https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diverter-post-replacement-for-metallica-and-others
Can some one tell me how to adjust the drop target height.
Thanks for the info.
Drop targets traditionally have a set screw at the bottom of the mech that adjusts for height. Just screw it in or out to adjust.
4 years later
Quoted from yzfguy:I run both on all of my games.
Same
1 week later
Quoted from pinballjah:Pretty sure Pinsound won’t work on a Stern.
Not accurate, it works stellar on my LOTR.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Dee-Bow:Ya,we are going to do a group buy on some side art protectors to use when lifting the playfield. Would consider making some if anyone know a good way to to it! Anyone?!
A roll of wax/parchment paper is the cheapest thing that I've used in the past to protect mirror blades. If you want to spend a few bucks, don't invent something new just buy what is already out there from PBL. They are only $35 https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
Quoted from Dee-Bow:Did the parchment paper hold up well?! I have some pretty serious gouges on my whirlwind and im almost afraid to install the art blades on it! I guess you could always double up the thickness if concerned they won't save the artblades! Interesting.. I'm going to give this a test trial! Thanks i realize the only other time i used parchment paper was to flatten some old playfield plastics in my oven.
Yea though I was still very careful mind you and it was only on the rare occasion that I needed to get in there. It's not a high traffic solution. My pins don't require a bunch of interventions fortunately. As soon as they do, I am ordering the PBL protectors (I actually have them saved in my cart for my next order regardless).
3 weeks later
Quoted from beltking:Sterns website the code is .bin when it downloads and won’t open or unzip. Tried everything. How do I do it?
Just follow the directions available on Stern's site... you don't unzip anything; download it, save it, and load it on.
3 months later
I had the pro and the primary reason I sold it to buy the Prem was the hammer pounding the ball below the BP.
1 month later
Quoted from Acronymicon:I see that speaker panel a lot, but I dont see it for sale anywhere.
Was it a limited run a while back?
I am new to the club too.
That speaker panel is from the later runs with the metal back box. The older original run was a wood back box with no art on thr speaker panel.
Quoted from Gunnut40:Hmmm….mine does not. Weird.
Not weird, mine doesn't have them either. They stopped adding them at some point in one of the many different runs.
3 months later
4 months later
It was very simple to do when I did it. I literally just hit it on my bench grinder to take the notch out. I marked it on the game where I needed it and how deep, put some painters tape on it, then notched in like 5 seconds on my grinder. Perfectly square with very clean edges. Looked like it was factory.
1 month later
Quoted from MNPinner:Curious to see if anybody has ever put the creeping death mirror blades on their machine? Are they worth the heavy price?
I have them and they're pretty sharp especially with the UV light bars. But they came with the pin when I bought it. I'm not sure I'd pay the $400+ for the set up vs $79 or whatever the regular side blades run. That's color DMD or Pinsound pricing. Kind of a personal decision that only you can make though.
3 months later
Quoted from Acronymicon:Oh wait, is it just a rivet?
Sure looks like it.
Quoted from Acronymicon:thought it was some welded on threaded post.
what a dork
LoL pinball is rarely that fancy.
3 weeks later
Any quality 2 part epoxy will be solid as a rock if used properly. Back when I had a POTC, I read about the sails getting broken so I backfilled the entire sail with epoxy and I could have driven over it with the car. It's also how I have made some custom shooter rods. Drys glossy and smooth to the touch which is great to the touch for a shooter.
5 months later
Quoted from pinballjah:Picked up one of these for my Pro. I think it might look pretty cool on one of the plastics at the back. It is based on the Motorhead custom game but I think it fits in well with the Metallica playfield.[quoted image]
Not sure of the scale but it might make a cool shooter rod too.
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