(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica Club - Ride the Lightning!

By swampfire

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 21,667 posts
  • 1,177 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by Rampmaster
  • Topic is favorited by 427 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #7243 Magnet removal Posted by xTheBlackKnightx (7 years ago)

Post #8935 Buzzing flippers fix Posted by j_m_ (7 years ago)

Post #19696 Fixing random drop targets dropping Posted by swampfire (2 years ago)


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#13568 5 years ago

So I've been trying to join the MET club for awhile. There might be one I can pick up here local for around 3500 which is a good deal. He tells me that the decals on the back box are peeling but he has new ones. In addition to that he said there were problems around the magnet area and coffin. He should be sending me picks today and I'm hoping its not the clear coat chipping. Is there anything else that I should be looking for on this game? I believe the game is the older run with the wooden back box. Any info would be great.

Thanks,
Robert

#13572 5 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

$3500. Just buy it.

Yup. I'm thinking so... even if the PF is chipping I could probably pick up a new one and swap sometime down the road. MET is pretty much my favorite of all time including the band. I've been wanting one for a few years and this one finally popped up local. Thanks for the responses and info, much appreciated.

#13630 5 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

I have a Met pro LED. Chipping and ghosting happened. Stern gave me a new playfield and now all is good. Stern had some problems, but they usually do a pretty good job to make it right. That said, that’s NIB. If buying used...just look it over first.

This is my problem. I found one local for 3.5k (Pro) has a shaker and color DMD but the magnet area is chewed up pretty bad, the art work (black ring) and clear coat is gone around the magnet. There is a large area right above the coffin that is chipping pretty bad (clear is gone) it's about the size of your fist maybe a little smaller. It is definitely noticeable. The drain area and shooter lane are fairly beat up too... In any case that is a really good price but maybe it makes more sense to just buy one NIB. I've wanted this game for a long time and once I get one its not going anywhere. I thought that I could locate a new PF and just play the hell out of it until I could get around to doing a swap but I'm having a hard time finding one. If I did find a PF I'm willing to bet it will cost around 1k so I would be in the game 4.5k and that is about the cost of a NIB... not sure if it's worth all the hassle to save 800 bucks.

#13635 5 years ago

First world problems...

I guess I'll have to think about this one. I got a hold of a few distros and they both told me that the playfield is about 900-1k. I found a NIB delivered for 5.3k. Ugh... tough decision. I guess my biggest concern would be that I bought the used game and it continues to deteriorate and I never end up finding a PF for a decent price. This is a keeper for me so it probably makes sense to just get a NIB. Thanks for the advice and suggestions.

#13637 5 years ago
Quoted from finnflash:

There is a pf on ebay for 585

Any chance you can send me a link... I've been looking all over and can't seem to find it on Ebay. Thanks.

#13646 5 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Bwilson said if he bought for $3500 and bought a new PF he would be in for $4500 which would save $800 over NIB which would be $5300.
I still don’t know how much of a bargain that is because the game sounds like a route dog that had a ton of plays. What about the condition of everything around and under the PF and cab itself?
I would go NIB unless you love PF swapping and repairing. Some folks really do.
We are talking MET here. More fun than games that are $4000 more than it NIB.

I'm pretty sure this game was one of those bad runs from back in April '16 or whenever that was. The backbox decals were peeling too.

I haven't actually gone to see the game just yet. Based on what he told me and the pictures, it sounds like he just played the shit out of it and started putting mylar on it when it began chipping all over the place.

Quoted from Spiderpin:

That's what I got out of his post. Saving of $800. NIB is the way I would go

Yes, I was adding the cost of the used game with the fact a new PF (in like new shape) sent off for clear and all that good stuff would put me at around 4.5k before a swap and repair of the decals.

Based on all the work and effort to make all those things come together... it's starting to sound like NIB is the way to go.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Talking through this I think the NIB path makes more sense over getting the "good" deal.

#13648 5 years ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

Yes, if you get NIB you know where it's been. And that new pin smell. Ahhh

Indeed. Smells so good...

2 weeks later
#13746 5 years ago

Anyone have a picture of how their apron is wired up (LE\Prem)? I think I might be missing the "Z" connector, not sure. Thanks.

4 months later
#14719 5 years ago

Is it normal for SAM games like MET to have a rather loud buzz or humming noise from the flipper coils? I checked the EOS switches and they seem to be working fine.

10 months later
#16756 4 years ago
Quoted from JDub03:

Need some diagnose help. Sparky sensor is triggering at random times, usually when I hit the right ramp. Just keep triggering and multiball starts. Did switch test and all switches come in clean. Thinking maybe the opto is bad, or not lined up properly, both lights on the opto board are lit and I checked the connections. Any tips to realign it, or should I just replace it? I reached out to my distributor and I am waiting to see about getting replacement parts (machine is just over a year old), but thought there might be an easy way to fix/diagnose.

I had some flaky Sparky senors that would trigger at random times. I thought that it was the optos at first but it still happened even after I put new ones in. I think I eventually just swapped them around took the left side put it on the right side and moved the right opto to the left. Everything started working again perfectly. There is something going on with the metal bracket those optos sit in and the way the IR beam aligns. At least that was the issue on my MET.

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