(Topic ID: 50762)
Linked Games
Metallica (Premium)
Stern, 2013-
Metallica (Pro)
Stern, 2013
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Sandviken
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from t2:New to the Met Pro club. Curious to what a stock from the factory Met Pro looked like? Any pics or brochures out there I can use to compare against mine. Would like to know what was added.
Available as pdf.
https://sternpinball.com/game/metallica/
1 week later
Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:Thanks for the help and it’s weird as it seems like it’s split 50/50, some people say stock is fine and upgrading speakers won’t really help with the newer Sterns while others say they are cheap paper speakers and it would help a lot putting in new speakers.
Flipper Fidelity speakers makes a hugh different to stock speakers.
I have them in my MET Premium and they sound very good.
I also have a stand alone sub in another game but to me the Flipper Fidelty is better.
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Quoted from WizardsCastle:I did forget to mention that when I raised the pitch, I also cleaned and waxed the pf.
I had no idea waxing could cause bricking on the targets, so i attributed it to the pitch.
I still think the targets should drop on contact, am I right? Is it time to adjust spring tension?
Do I just cut the springs shorter?
When the game plays fast, sometimes the drop targets bounce back to the resting position after a hit before the spring as had a chance to pull it down.
2 months later
4 weeks later
Quoted from KYLEDM5:What do you chaps think about Cliffy vs Mantis in regards to protecting the mystery hole?
It seems like there's a trade off. Cliffy offers better protection, but as usual, it will somewhat affect the ball's travel and get worse over time.
The Mantis looks like it wouldn't affect the ball at all, but it doesn't protect the rim of the hole.
Anyone have long term/hard use with either one? Pics?
Thanks!
Cliffy all day long. Protect the part of the hole that gets worn. Which is the whole point.
Quoted from Sako-TRG:Gents,
Where can you buy a good Met shooter rod?
Also, some good flipper bat covers - Metallica themed of course
Thanks....
I use the bat from Scared Stiff in my MET.
77f94c08dcdd3e5529bc2d6df0ecf7b714bc7d40 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
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Quoted from mizzou:Does anyone do cpu/sound board repair for Metallica boards? I've got a problem with mine. Everything on J1p3 is dead. Tested for continuity and it tested positive...530 bucks for a new one on marco...yikes
Check the easy stuff first:
Fuse, transistor, header pin for cracks, diod etc.
2 weeks later
Quoted from BigalzPinz:So funny to here people on here that only play a few times a week,,,, I can’t hardly stand being away from my Met ! I didn’t buy mine to stare at in a corner or save it for years to sell later !! Just funny to me
For us that have more than one machine we can be playing more than a few times a week and still have games that have not been touched 
2 months later
Quoted from LoganJK:The fuses do not look blown, is this maybe a bad solder on the board? We tried wiggling connectors and nothing.
thanks for the help everyone.
Always buzz a fuse with a DMM, many times they can look OK but infact be bad.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Pin_Guy:I finally got around to working on my magnet board that burned up ... The damage to the board itself was fairly substantial penetrating several layers deep into the board.
[quoted image]
The board prep consisted of cleaning the board to remove all the charred residue then using a dremel to mill out as much of charred layers of fiber as I could...this could not all be removed as the board was burned through to the back side.
I didn't get pictures of the board prep or this actual PCB repair, but here's a video on how its done:The Failure was identified as a shorted MOSFET which was replaced along with the burned resistor, a 10W resistor was installed to replace the 5W that burned.
[quoted image]
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Its hard to tell from the pictures, but the repair to the board is completely smooth and I used a clear epoy for the fill...if I had green dye to add to the epoxy this would have looked much better.
EDIT: Board was installed in machine, played a few games and I'm happy to report it's working great!
Not too uncommon I am afraid on MET. My board released the magic smooke a few months ago. Same result to the board, easy fix though.
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Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:What Premium/LE owners among you are using full Cliffy sets?
I'm wondering how the ball behaves when it rolls over the rings that surround the Coffin, Gravemarker, and Sparky magnets. Perhaps the carbon fiber rings are thinner and don't disturb the ball as much.
Do the ramp returns drop on the lane switches, necessitating those switch-slot Cliffys?
Lastly, is the Snake Cliffy necessary? I'm looking at that spot on the PF and I don't see how the ball can "rim" that edge. I mean, it goes into the Snake's mouth or it gets ejected from it, but it never really gets a chance to dig into that rim because the jaw of the snake sits so close to it, etc.
Is if fair to say that mylar rings to surround the Gravemarker and Sparky magnets, plus the Mystery Scoop Cliffy, plus shooter-lane Cliffys are enough?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
[quoted image][quoted image]
My coffin magnet had a lot of false readings due to the stainless protector, I would recommend carbon there instead if you decide on a protector around that magnet.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Found this unfamiliar heat-sink thingy in the head of my game.
Please tell me its function.
I need to move it to accommodate a speaker upgrade. It has its own fuse, mounted nearby.
[quoted image][quoted image]
**Update**
I was told by LTG that this is a bridge rectifier. I don't mind moving it. I'm just surprised to find it there as this is my fourth SAM machine and my first encounter with this thing. Do the rest of you Premium/LE owners have this rectifier? Why is it necessary when it isn't necessary on MET PRO, TWD PRO, or TWDLE?
I have that bridge rectumfier it in my Met Premium as well, just installed in different location.
1 month later
Quoted from MrCleanHead:I have been messing around with this for a couple of months and finally got something Im happy with. Simple add on Mod that takes up some of the bare area. I will have these listed here on pinside when I get a chance and my internet speeds pick up, plus Im late for work I currently do have these on ebay if you didnt want to wait.
LMK what you think or PM me with any questions/suggestions.
Thanks
Rob
[quoted image]
The Cliff Burton cross I get but seems kind of strange to me having names of people still alive on a cross.
4 months later
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Quoted from Bestshore:Hello,
I’ve got a met premium. The coffin magnet is locked on. I checked the ohms on the magnet and it still is reading 4.7. No broken wires on the magnet.
I pulled the board and looked at the resistor, no evidence of it being burned up. It looks like I need a new magnet board.
My question is: any way to test the old board? what else should I check prior to installing a new board? Maybe a failed transistor somewhere that caused it to lock on?
I believe this is a fairly common problem with this machine.
Thanks for any help
Check the transistor on the magnet board using a DMM, it is most likely shorted.
Put the black lead of your DMM on the center lead or on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the red lead of your DMM on each of the two outside legs of the transistor one at a time. You should get a reading of .4 to .6 volts. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.
Quoted from Bestshore:Bundy
Thanks for letting me know about the transistor on the magnet board.
Any chance you know which transistor I can use to replace?
The original, I was told, SPP15P10PL, is no longer being produced.
You can replace it with any other 15A P-channel mosfet transistor. Eg TO220.
https://www.transistormosfet.com/transistor?search=SPP15P10PL
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10 months later
Quoted from Hayfarmer:My Pro today let's the ball loop on the plunge without holding the left flipper, it no longer stops at the top lanes. Haven't had a chance to look yet, but Any idea?
Check if one of the two leads going to the coil for the post has come loose.
1 month later
Quoted from brewmanager:Can anyone verify for me that this is the correct magnet core for Sparky?
https://www.pinballlife.com/complete-under-playfield-magnet-assembly.html
Thanks!
The core is soft and can be grinded to new again if it is just mushroomed, no need to replace.
1 month later
Quoted from Viggin900:My magnet isn't catching the balls like it used to? The balls appear to be fine, does the magnet need to be done? I'm not sure what to look for?
[quoted image]
When the magnet looks like that you need to grind it or replace it.
It should have a smooth surface and sit level to the play field.
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