(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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There are 16855 posts in this topic. You are on page 69 of 338.
#3401 4 years ago

Subtle change Sunday.

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#3402 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Subtle change Sunday.
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
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Where did you get those orange protectors?

#3403 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Did you have issues getting the cross to fit down through the hole in the plastic? The screws in mine just barely fit

No, I just pulled it straight out and put it straight back in again. Hmmm, sounds familiar.

#3404 4 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Get rid of the turtle and get yourself a snake!!! (See post linked below)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/31#post-2028678
Get the ColorDMD when it becomes available again.
That's really about it for ABSOLUTE must haves. Upgraded sound system (follow the link Metallik referenced a couple posts above yours) and you'll be in audio heaven.
Conrgats on your first NIB!

Yea I was thinking or swapping my color dmd out of tz into met for now bc its getting most of the play lol.

#3405 4 years ago
Quoted from moto_cat:

Where did you get those orange protectors?

joe at laseriffic. I just asked for a set in orange instead of green.

#3406 4 years ago

Further adventures of subtle change Sunday. I have no justification for how much this bothered me, but it did. And now it's better.

Before:
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After:
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What?
image.jpg
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#3407 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Further adventures of subtle change Sunday. I have no justification for how much this bothered me, but it did. And now it's better.

Kind of a side question, but what LED's are you using in your Snake insert in that first pic? I'm trying to match those to the playfield insert lighting and the ones I got aren't bright enough.

I put orange cointaker supers in the Fuel and purple supers in the Mystery inserts and they look great, but they're not really bright enough to shine through the white inserts.

#3408 4 years ago
Quoted from TOK:

Kind of a side question, but what LED's are you using in your Snake insert in that first pic? I'm trying to match those to the playfield insert lighting and the ones I got aren't bright enough.
I put orange cointaker supers in the Fuel and purple supers in the Mystery inserts and they look great, but they're not really bright enough to shine through the white inserts.

I just use ablaze premiums from pinballlife, but I added a second socket to each insert.

Thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-smart-person-would-have-used-double-headed-flex-leds

#3409 4 years ago

Thanks, I figured you were gonna say they were some kind of double flexy's. It came out great!

#3410 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Further adventures of subtle change Sunday. I have no justification for how much this bothered me, but it did. And now it's better.
Before:
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
After:
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
What?
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Looks much better! It may loose strength but personally id router a small line through all the artwork till the end of the smoke trail.. I'd think you'd gain the detail back while keeping the cool orange glow

#3411 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Further adventures of subtle change Sunday. I have no justification for how much this bothered me, but it did. And now it's better.
Before:
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
After:
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
What?
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

VERY good idea.

#3412 4 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Looks much better! It may loose strength but personally id router a small line through all the artwork till the end of the smoke trail.. I'd think you'd gain the detail back while keeping the cool orange glow

The smoke/flames having an orange tint didn't bother me as much, and a circle was really easy to make

#3413 4 years ago

Anybody ever lose all g.i.? Was playing a game and all g.i. Stopped working. All fuse lights on board in backbox are lit. Any ideas? Thanks

image.jpg
#3414 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The smoke/flames having an orange tint didn't bother me as much, and a circle was really easy to make

That looks like a perfect hole, what did ya use.

#3415 4 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Anybody ever lose all g.i.? Was playing a game and all g.i. Stopped working. All fuse lights on board in backbox are lit. Any ideas? Thanks

image.jpg

Stand up the playfield. Bottom right as you look at it,
Probably this connector right here..

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#3416 4 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Stand up the playfield. Bottom right as you look at it,
Probably this connector right here..
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Thanks for the suggestion. Reseated connector and still no g.i. I'll keep looking.

#3417 4 years ago

Check these as well. Right in the middle of the PF.

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#3418 4 years ago

Discovered on my mustang that if I disconnect this phone jack looking connector I lose all g.i. I reseated my Metallica ones and made no difference. The wires go to a board under the playfield. I am thinking that board may be bad and will try to switch it out from on known good one on ac/dc or mustang.

image.jpg image-631.jpg
#3419 4 years ago

Or if that power connector is out it will also be blank too.

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#3420 4 years ago

It might just be the cable. If the GI control board loses contact with the CPU the GI stays in the last state it was in before it lost contact. Pulling that cable shouldn't automatically blank the GI. If the cable is dodgey and lost contact during a blackout moment then the lights would not come back on. likewise if you pull it while the lights are on they won't turn off when they are supposed to.

#3421 4 years ago

Stern calls it a rgb board. Does anyone know what rgb stands for? Is the phone jack looking thing the power connector?

#3422 4 years ago

Reseated black and red connector. I saw a thread about some flickering g. I. Due to this connector. Still nothing. Have to go to work but will try to switch boards. Pinball life has them for around $100.00 if it is bad.

#3423 4 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

It might just be the cable. If the GI control board loses contact with the CPU the GI stays in the last state it was in before it lost contact. Pulling that cable shouldn't automatically blank the GI. If the cable is dodgey and lost contact during a blackout moment then the lights would not come back on. likewise if you pull it while the lights are on they won't turn off when they are supposed to.

Ok thanks. Was not aware of that.

#3424 4 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Stern calls it a rgb board. Does anyone know what rgb stands for? Is the phone jack looking thing the power connector?

Red , green blue

#3425 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That looks like a perfect hole, what did ya use.

7/8" spade dril bit. The points on the edge were enough to get through it coming from one side and then the other.

#3426 4 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Reseated black and red connector. I saw a thread about some flickering g. I. Due to this connector. Still nothing. Have to go to work but will try to switch boards. Pinball life has them for around $100.00 if it is bad.

Mark, call 1-800-kickers and talk to Chaz at Stern. Take all the guess-work out of it.

#3427 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

7/8" spade dril bit. The points on the edge were enough to get through it coming from one side and then the other.

So that's a wood drill bit used for cutting holes in wood?

#3428 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

So that's a wood drill bit used for cutting holes in wood?

Yeah, like this one, but in 7/8" size:

short-length-spade-bits-393.jpg

I put the protector on top, marked the center of the eyeball as best I could, then drilled it over a block of wood until the main meat of the bit started hitting the plastic, then flipped it over and used the center hole to re-align and cut from the back.

#3429 4 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

Mark, call 1-800-kickers and talk to Chaz at Stern. Take all the guess-work out of it.

I've called them a couple of times now for issues on new games that I couldn't figure out, and both times they walked me right through it and got it figured out. It's way easier than reading/posting...

#3430 4 years ago

Thanks, that what I thought. I have one of those so I'll try it when I have some time and I have a drill press too which will make it easier.

#3431 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Yeah, like this one, but in 7/8" size:
short-length-spade-bits-393.jpg
I put the protector on top, marked the center of the eyeball as best I could, then drilled it over a block of wood until the main meat of the bit started hitting the plastic, then flipped it over and used the center hole to re-align and cut from the back.

Love it! thanks!

#3432 4 years ago
Quoted from chet218:

I recently bought Metallica pro LED and hooked up a polk 10 inch sub using alligator clips. I have done this in the past with Star Trek premium and Tron pro. I feel I'm not getting the near the same amount of bass on Metallica as I was with the other two games. Anyone else have this concern or any tips/suggestions?
Thanks

my Metallica had no low end bass with the polk 10 sub. I removed the speaker wires from the factory sub and ran them straight to Polk sub. Big diffreance in bass now. Not sure why this is but it works.

#3433 4 years ago

A forstner bit might make a cut that is less likely to crack the plastic.

Something loke this
image.jpg

Also my experience with drill presses making my sparky protectors is that they spin too fast. Even woth mine on the lowest speed. I get much better/safer contol with a hand drill.

Just my two cents.

#3434 4 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

my Metallica had no low end bass with the polk 10 sub. I removed the speaker wires from the factory sub and ran them straight to Polk sub. Big diffreance in bass now. Not sure why this is but it works.

That is odd my polk sub pumps with alligator clips and original one in cab. It dont make sense y yours wldnt and shouldn't make a difference either way its hooked up unless you had the positive and negative backwards originally?

#3435 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

A forstner bit might make a cut that is less likely to crack the plastic.
Also my experience with drill presses making my sparky protectors is that they spin too fast. Even woth mine on the lowest speed. I get much better/safer contol with a hand drill.
Just my two cents.

Yeah, I used a hand drill and went pretty slow for the most part. Had no idea if what I was doing would work when I did the first one, but it went pretty smooth. So did the second. Can't say it'll work great for anybody else though. Drill at your own risk, or whatever.

#3436 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Yeah, like this one, but in 7/8" size:
short-length-spade-bits-393.jpg
I put the protector on top, marked the center of the eyeball as best I could, then drilled it over a block of wood until the main meat of the bit started hitting the plastic, then flipped it over and used the center hole to re-align and cut from the back.

Just did mine and it worked great, thanks for the tip. very easy to do with a drill press.

IMGA0891.JPG IMGA0892.JPG
#3437 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

A forstner bit might make a cut that is less likely to crack the plastic.
Something loke this
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Also my experience with drill presses making my sparky protectors is that they spin too fast. Even woth mine on the lowest speed. I get much better/safer contol with a hand drill.
Just my two cents.

I had no problem at all with the wood bit and my press. Much more control of the cut depth and speed of cut. Not even a hint of cracking, just let the bit do the cutting and don't force the cut pressure.

#3438 4 years ago

quick question regarding dimples and clear coat chipping....

Hey guys, after about 100 games I have started to notice the dimples around sparky's magnet. Will a mylar protector, (like x-men's) help with keeping the dimples to a minimum?

Also, had to pull a spot light LED out of the ball trough. When doing so, I noticed the clear is lifting/chipping right at the rim where the ball goes into the trough. Anyone else have this issue and if so, what do you guys use to keep it in check?

#3439 4 years ago

I applied mylar to the edge of the playfield leading to the ball trough.

#3440 4 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

Mark, call 1-800-kickers and talk to Chaz at Stern. Take all the guess-work out of it.

Spoke to Chaz, he agrees that the led control board under the play field may be the problem, then switch out the telephone cable that goes into it.

#3441 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I had no problem at all with the wood bit and my press. Much more control of the cut depth and speed of cut. Not even a hint of cracking, just let the bit do the cutting and don't force the cut pressure.

Awesome! glad it worked out. Both the Green and Orange pics above look great with the eyeball cutout!

Rick

#3442 4 years ago

Swapped cables from working game and still no g.i. Before switching led boards I decided to look through manual. This led control board is driver board 520-5331-00 under playfield.

Schematics had power wires going to rectifier and heat sink assy in backbox. This then has a 5amp sb fuse. Replaced fuse and g.i. Back on for now. Not sure what blew the fuse and if tub will blow again.

I was only looking at the CPU fuses marked g.i and did not even test the fuse that was out blown.

Hope this helps someone if happens to them

image-535.jpg
image-565.jpg

#3443 4 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Swapped cables from working game and still no g.i. Before switching led boards I decided to look through manual. This led control board is driver board 520-5331-00 under playfield.
Schematics had power wires going to rectifier and heat sink assy in backbox. This then has a 5amp sb fuse. Replaced fuse and g.i. Back on for now. Not sure what blew the fuse and if tub will blow again.
I was only looking at the CPU fuses marked g.i and did not even test the fuse that was out blown.
Hope this helps someone if happens to them
image-535.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
image-565.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

#3444 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Awesome! glad it worked out. Both the Green and Orange pics above look great with the eyeball cutout!
Rick

I'm gonna play it for a while then I might Dremel the flame part to light that up more natural. I love modding a mod.

#3445 4 years ago

Well, now the g.i. Stays on when playfield in service position. Goes out when lower playfield into position. Something has to be shorting as I lower it but can't find anything obvious.

Very frustrating.

#3446 4 years ago

Check to see if any wires are getting pinched or rubbing on the support rails as you raise/lower. Especially way in the back corners.

#3448 4 years ago

Just received my shooter rod from "kpull"! Fits the theme perfect! If interested pm "kpull" pinside member making these, not sure for how long though.

Quick question, when taking the stock shooter rod out noticed there was no "sleeve", is there no sleeve in the shooter housing on Stern's?

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#3449 4 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

Check to see if any wires are getting pinched or rubbing on the support rails as you raise/lower. Especially way in the back corners.

Thanks Mark, searching......

#3450 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Just received my custom shooter rod! Fits the theme perfect! If interested pm "kpull" pinside member making these, not sure for how long though.
Quick question, when taking the stock shooter rod out noticed there was no "sleeve", is there no sleeve in the shooter housing on Stern's?

1546028_10203816086032356_5788729849751833190_n.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
11045489_10203816086152359_5804270666483113067_n.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
11258333_10203816086392365_7654628983855408720_n.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
11258377_10203816086632371_2298174897686206169_n.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
11113124_10203816086872377_4414075373726631650_n.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
11224714_10203816087232386_715634735985773326_n.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
11230904_10203816087592395_3148227558046780147_n.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Stern does not use the plastic shooter sleeve like older games have. It is a metal sleeve. Not sure if brass or what they use. Nice game. I have refinery prem 007. (I'm a bond fan )

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