Seconded. So true.
Speaking as Both a pinhead & Metallica fan

When I bought mine, it was the same price for regular premium or road case, and as much as I liked the cabinet art, I didn't like the translite or how the artclashed with the playfield style.

I just replaced the old men trans for the monster trans on my road-case and back in the day folk all wanted the road-case cab way more than the reg but did not like the trans.the road is way more rare if that means value.

Does anyone know what would cause the coffin lock to not want to hold a ball? I'm having this issue intermittently but when it happens it happens every time.

Last night I played several hours with no issues but today the coffin lock just spits the ball up every time.

Any ideas what I can check? Last time it happened I had the glass and translite off so I thought maybe the light was messing with the optos but this time I'm not sure what it could be. I made sure the table was level.

EDIT: I changed the balls and it stopped so I assumed it was magnetization... but then I had a weird issue where I came out of crank it up and the game didn't eject another ball into the trough for my final ball. There was a ball in the coffin lock and it just sat there without doing the ball search or anything. I put a 5th ball in just to play out the game and then I had to use the service menu to try the coffin lock release solenoid. It fired off a few times with no result and then finally saw the ball and ejected it.

Does the coffin lock use 3 optos to sense all of the balls? I'm wondering if that first opto is going bad or needs adjusting.

Any insight on this? The snake jaw presses the switch in due to gravity. Can share a video if it would clarify.

I think there was only about 5 total of these glasses that were produced. All went to the people that worked on the 1st proto type game for James/Metallica. Good Luck finding one. A friend of mine that worked on the project sold his a few years back for about $500...i think.

One went to AUS for like $18,000. Fully loaded LE.

Does anyone have a problem with the rubber on the post beside the left ramp working its way up and popping off over time?

This is the only one that does it, but every rubber I put on there gets a little split and then works its way off the post.
The only thing I can think of is that the flap at the end of the ramp has a tiny little crease on it. I'm not sure if this is normal or if it's causing the ball to take a weird trajectory when coming back down the ramp which pushes the rubber up the post.
I've got a dab of hot glue on it now to keep it down but would rather fix the issue and not have to do that.

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Is that rubber a hair too big? I've never had that happen.

I'm not sure. The machine came with it missing which makes me think this was happening before I got it. I have been using ones from my Iron Maiden set. I thought these posts and rubbers would be standard sizes especially on stern games.

There are a couple different mini-post rubber sizes; 3/8" OD and 7/16" OD. One of them (maybe the 7/16?) has a smaller ID and fits tighter on the post. You could also try the polyurethane versions (e.g. "Super-Bands"), as they seem to fit tightly and are very durable.

That used to happen to me, and my game had the original rubbers on it. It hasn't happened since I changed out the rubbers to Titian rings.

I just think that post takes a beating. I use Titan rubbers and have had to replace that post rubber once. It just got beat down and started coming apart. If your rubber is starting to split then hot glue will not help. It needs to be replaced. Try Titan rubbers and buy extras to replace as needed. That or step up to super band post rubbers. They are very dense and difficult to get on but hold up better. With the rubber off, check if the post has any imperfections that might bite into the rubber.

Ok, I feel like a dumb dumb. I can't find any info on how to restore settings or high scores on Metallica. I found the backup option and executed it, and assumed that would do it. Whatever it backed up, I can't retrieve. Any advice?

I went through this recently when I had to update code for pin2DMD. My understanding is that you can't back up scores or settings, the back up to USB option on SAM is only audits. On SPIKE 2 it's in the USB menu and there's a backup and restore settings and scores option, I could not find it on Metallica though.

How is the Metallica colorization for pin2DMD? 100%?

New to the club BTW, my first Borg game, and another step in my goal of collecting all the best Lyman games. Love it.

Yeah it's 100% as far as I can tell. Looks pretty nice too, although something about the dots on the pin2dmd look slightly off for me. Like they are a little too far apart or something. I haven't seen a colorDMD in real life though so I'm not sure if it's just my perception.

I have the LCD Color DMD in mine, but Id like to put it in my Spider-Man if the pin2DMD for Metallica is well done.

The animation blending, if thats the right word, on the LCD seems like it would be more effective on something like the Spider-Man movie clips than the relatively simpler Metallica animations.

I’m not sure how the blending would be on Spider-Man movie clips, but I can tell you I did not like the blending for the Game of Thrones clips. DotsXL looked best on game of thrones. I eventually put a LED in GOT and put the LCD in Metallica. I think the scan/HiRes/blending of the LCD works best for cartoon style animation where there is less detail than an actual video clip.

A couple of moths, came to the flame.

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Is it possible to adjust the inlane rollover switches? I have one that doesn't always activate and it seems it doesn't depress the microswitch until it's right level with the playfield.

Yes. You can move it left/right by loosening the screws and positioning as needed. You can also slightly bend the wireform to make it contact the ball better.

Is there any way to make it activate the microswitch earlier? The issue isn't left or right, it's that the switch doesn't' depress until the wire is basically level with the playfield. If the ball doesn't hit it perfectly it won't activate and all of the other seem to depress the microswitch about 5mm above the playfield.

Also I gave the game a really good cleaning and wax yesteday and then got a new GC high score first try. gotta love when that happens

Just bend the metal so the switch activates earlier. Very easy.

Bend it. Test it with a ball. Best to use needle nose pliers.

What is the fit for the Mezel Mods snake fangs supposed to be like? I couldn't squeeze mine in and loosening the screw in the roof of the snake's mouth didn't help, pretty sure it was just spinning the knurled post that it screws into.
I ended up having to remove the snake head entirely but the fangs are quite loose after putting it back together and there's a decent gap where his mouth is.
Is this how it should fit?

I might have to glue that knurled post back into the snake's head and try putting it all back together. It seems the thickness of the fangs is never going to make that gap any smaller though.

PXL_20220707_184748229 (resized).jpg

Was having some trouble having the coffin magnet catch balls the other day. It had to be a soft rolling shot over it. Does changing the stock block metal target behind it help?

I remember taking the entire snake mech out of my game when I did mine. I know others had no issues installing their [fangs], but it was a pain with mine like yours. I think that I had to use a low profile ratcheting screwdriver like the one in the link below to remove the screw holding the metal plate so that I could squeeze the fangs back further and then close that gap back up when re-securing the metal plate.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6/

reinstalling the snake mech was a pain as well and you have to make sure that you line up the assemblies correctly otherwise the vuk will not eject the pinballs to the proper spot on the left flipper

see here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/181#post-3521263
and here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/181#post-3521339
and here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/181#post-3527474

I just loosened the screw on top of the snake and slid the fangs in, it was tight, but i was able to do it without having to do anything else.

This!!! It’s been many years since I did it and it was very tight but got them in and did nothing else as well.

Can I get some pictures of the light bar mod from years ago,I have the lights but need to see the supports!

Thanks

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Thank you!may I ask how long are those stand offs?

The front white of fangs I painted lime to match and looks better.

Green fangs?

Finally got the newton ball installed on my LE. Wow, I never realized how big of an eyesore that block was. Opens up the shooting lane to Sparky from the right flipper to.

That pic was before it was completely secure.

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Yep, did that within 3 days of buying my game. It makes some nice combo ricochet shots possible into the snake too.

No the white bar in front that connects the fangs paint green.

Last week my Metallica started acting up,and was strobing like crazy . I did what was recommended in some old post,and now she's back to normal. I want ahead and reconnected all of the possible connections that might be causing the problem. I did the ones under the play field,and also the ones in the backbox.
I have no idea which one was causing the problem ,but I'm glad that an easy fix worked out for me .

Thanks. I didn't need to take out the entire mech thankfully but I did have to remove the molded headpiece. I'm really just wondering if that gap that's showing now is normal or if I should go back and adjust some more.

Aaah, now I get it. Good idea!

Anyone seen a hammer on a Pro before? What is the history of this mod? Thanks.

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You buy that from saskatoon?! He made the bracket himself and bought the mod from spinny-vinny. There's a thread on here explaining how Tim did it.

Not sure who the original owner was? Bought it from second owner in Toronto. Has the custom Sparky as well. Still trying to figure out what the writing on the knuckles means.

Does the hammer do anything or is it for show? What Sparky do you have? Would love to see some more pics.

Hammer does nothing, just for show.

I believe this was my friends Tim's old MET. I suck at computer.dammit but search pinsider TWILIGHT1 - hammer mod in metallica