That bulb is very dim in test mode. Knock down all the drops in a game and you should see it light up.

Thank you.

What will you be charging for this mod?

Thanks, this turned out to be the case. It just wasn't as bright as I expected and I didn't notice it at all.

I have a few more questions.

How do you tell if your sparky magnet is mushroomed? I get a lot of air balls off of it but I'm not sure if it's meant to be flat or raised. Is this the part you would replace if it was mushroomed? https://www.pinballlife.com/magnet-core-plug.html

I've also had an issue a few times where the coffin lock magnet loses the ball and it opens up with no ball to put down in the coffin. I'm not sure if this happens during normal play since the ball can come in pretty fast, or if it means there's a problem with the magnet.

And last is that I got this service alert. What exactly do I need to check to see what's wrong? I went into the switch test menu but wasn't sure what I should be checking for.

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Magnet should be perfectly flat with playfield, any airball is indication of a problem. It's almost certainly mushroomed, be sure to pull it out the top when replacing.

Magnet board will occasionally false trigger when the ball isn't there, NBD unless it's more than once every few games

Check the position-sensing optos around the moving grave marker, one isn't registering or is stuck closed.

I recently replaced my square box behind the hammer with a newton ball assembly as suggested many times by the community. Very nice upgrade. Thank you to all who recommended.

Since I couldn’t find the part in the US, I had a few shipped over from pu parts. I have two extra so if anyone is looking for one please DM. $25 + shipping (more/less the cost from pu parts). Cheers.

https://pu-parts.com/stern-newton-ball-assembly

Thanks. I see people saying to change the magnet core when the magnet is mushroomed. When I search for that all I can find is the magnet core plug. Is that the same part?

Yes that is what you need. Loosen it from underneath and remove it from the top so you don't do any damage trying to go the other way around.

All of a sudden my machine is serving up two balls into the shooter lane 90% of the time. It will serve up balls while I'm playing randomly too. The coffin mech is making a noise and trying over and over to move... would these two be related in any way? It's a little frustrating this is happening out of the blue now.

EDIT: Looks like the weld on the ball trough is broken... going to have to see if I can find a replacement part. This looks like it
https://www.pinballlife.com/upper-ball-trough-assembly-2-piece-set.html

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Every time I've had that happen, it's been magnetized balls.

If the shooter lane switch was not registering it seems that would happen also.

Check your opto boards in the trough. Go into switch test mode and see if they are activating by feeding a ball in the trough. Unplug and plug them back in, both sides. They may be failing.

WTB: Metallica Stock Key Fobs and Original Snake plastic. I can’t see the Roll overs with this Aftermarket Snake Plastic!!!

The double ball issue seems to be from that scoop having broken welds. The cable tie fixed it for now it seems. I tested them for magentization and didn't feel anything.

I just have to figure out this coffin lock issue now... it clicks like it's trying to do something when I start the machine and once it locked a ball the ball search went off and it ejected it back out the mystery hole. I haven't had a chance to lift the playfield yet and see if anything looks off.

If you just held the balls together and tried to pull them apart, you won’t feel if the balls are magnetized. You have to put them on a flat surface, put the balls together and slide one ball across the flat surface to see if the second ball moves with the first at all. It doesn’t take much magnetic pull from the balls to really screw things up.

OK thanks, I a tried a paperclip to see if it would lift but it didnt. I guess it's possible the paperclip wasn't the right material.

I have some new balls in the mail so I'll just swap them when I get them and see how that plays out.

I'm hoping now that they are magnetized because that would explain my coffin issue. I just went through the test menu and fired off all of the coffin related tests but nothing was wrong so I'm going to have to take some time to figure out what's up.

Have you taken the balls out and dropped them in the trough one at a time while in switch test to make sure all the switches register when they are supposed to? I only have a pro, but I would think you should also try this in the coffin. Watch the balls to see if they are getting hung up anywhere while they go through the trough.

A few light questions!

First two rows of lamp lights test don’t turn anything on. Running through lights 1-16 individually, nothing turns on, nor do they have any specific names (just Lamp #1).

I can’t seem to find any lights in test that activate the spider RGBs nor the front spots, but I’ve seen them light up at times.

Do the unlit rows mean anything?
Is there a way to test the spiders or the front spots?

By front spots do you mean the nearest to the player or sparky? The sparky ones are flashers and I thought the front spots were GI so they just stayed on all the time.

Yeah the front GI I think. I’m also getting a lot of flickering of GI that I can’t seem to reliably fix with reseating, although I can temporarily fix.

Stern GI is known for being pretty from what I've seen.
I have less experience with these wedge bulbs than bayonet but I did find one or two of my flickering bulbs had wear on the pins. Replacing them helped.

I also read some advice that you can bend the pins up, wrap the wedge once or twice with electrical tape and then bend the pins back down and it will make a tighter fit which can help. Could be the socket too but in my experience it's usually not, it's how the bulb connects to the socket that's the issue.

For bayonets I add solder to the end to make a better connection with the spring and that has always worked.

Common issue on Metallica premium/LE is blinking/strobing GI. The fix is usually resoldering the power connector(header) on the node board. There are many threads about that on pinside.

https://www.google.com/search?q=metallica+gi+blinking+pinside&rlz=1C1GCEB_enUS856US856&ei=NJ6jYtmVCM6qwbkP4aiViA8&ved=0ahUKEwjZ__vl0aP4AhVOVTABHWFUBfEQ4dUDCA4&oq=meatallica+gi+blinking+pinside&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAxKBAhBGABKBAhGGABQAFgAYABoAHAAeACAAQCIAQCSAQCYAQA&sclient=gws-wiz

I just put a pinnovators external sub kit into my metallica. I have it for Iron Maiden and didn't think it made a big difference but on Metallica the difference is night and day. The bass was really lacking before and this really fills out the sound. Probably the best bang for your buck mod for this machine so far.

And Metallica isn't really bass heavy music but for the callouts, the hammer lock, slingshots etc it really adds a kick.

I’ve been trying to troubleshoot the flickering GI on a Premium, and noticed that the connectors collected by this Z-connector in the center bottom are extremely hot, even shortly after turning machine on. Fiddling with the cables it runs to (on left in backboard, nearly behind the speaker) seemed to at least Temporarily fix the flickering but the super hot connector is worrisome. Is this normal? How might I fix if not? Thanks!!
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I haven't heard of this but I have a Pro. Have you considered replacing the IDC connectors with Molex/trifurcon pins? I can't guarantee it will solve the issue but they should be rated at a higher current than those stock IDC connectors, which may allow them to run a bit cooler if there is any issue with the IDC connections.

What do you get for hitting the hurry up on the dead end lane when the spider arrow there is lit red? (I'm on premium so pro colors might be different)
It lights red when you hit a feature like a ramp and then hit it again with the spider light lit.

Is it just for points?

Thank you, any idea if this super hotness is standard at this location, or am I just bandaiding an upstream problem with the lighting strain? (Eg a bad connector or cable elsewhere?)

The piston shot is 250k, but if you combo it such as the right ramp and then piston it is worth 750k which is good points. Also the piston shot is how you start 2x playfield when its fully lit so save that for multiball or CIU.

I can only speak generally because I don't have my game in front of me and I don't know what those wires are for off the top of my head. I would not worry about moving the problem upstream. If the connector is getting too hot and it's due to it's resistance being high, then solving that issue will not automatically cause additional stress on other components in the circuit.

At minimum replace the connector. Also replace the power connector on the RGB lighting board. This is a common point of failure.

New connectors should have trifurcon pins for added reliability.

I'm not sure this is the right size pin?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CT156T

Rob

Is there any way to move the snake jaw up or to the left to prevent gravity from pulling it down and closing the switch when it is supposed to be open (jaw=closed)? When I adjust the jaw screw to raise it, it leads to the latch jamming.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-premium-snake-jaw-issue#post-6982714

Installed a Pin2dmd today, it looks pretty good.

Also I can't believe how much changing out the mushroomed sparky magnet changed the flow of the game. I was missing so many shots before without realizing it was hopping off the magnet and missing the opto/switch.

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What’s the current price ranges of a HUO METLE w Colordmd?

12-15K

I'd say an LE is slightly higher than that. As ridiculous as these prices are, an LE isn't easy to come by.

$16k is likely a decent price, some sold $16k plus.

I was looking for a premium a few months ago and usually prefer them because of the additional Mechs and features. But I bought a pro on this title and I can honestly say I’m very happy with it and glad I saved my self at least 2k to 2.5k in doing it.

Prices are stupid right now and It’s hard to believe that a used pro of this game is going for almost as much as a brand new stern premium. I got lucky with one that had nice add ons and it was in excellent condition. No regrets on making the purchase.

Metallica is an amazing game. It doesn’t have a ton of mechs and ramps but everything comes together so we’ll. The music the call outs the sound effects… Amazing! I love it. I play it more than everything else I own right now, including my Godzilla premium.

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This nice LE with a bunch of mods went for $16000 back in November and prices are much higher since then, so figure an LE with less mods may go for 16k now.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/121971

Welcome to buy my crazy premium for $13.5

I snagged a nice picture off the internet of original pinball art from Dirty Donny and I printed out a nice dust cover for my machine.

I know some people think covers are cheesy but I really get a lot of dust and stuff falling down onto the glass during the week when I don’t play my machines. So this takes care of that and I think they look awesome too!
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I just did one too, I think yours turned out better than mine. I had that picture too but had to go with the GFs choice of course, and we like the pro model translite art.
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Anyone know if/where to get this translite?

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While we're on this topic,what's a Metallica Roadcase going for ?

similar to premium price, I believe

That is the one that Dirty Donnie made for James Hetfield custom Earthshaker retheme before Stern made Metallica. Not sure they are for sale.

You should have asked me for the matching one.

I should have! I didn't even think about it.

I believe higher, because at the end there are more rare than the LE as they did produce less Roadcase Premium than LE's.

Yes maybe, but I think the outside art is not really desired, especially the translite.

Someone offered me that model for my Deadpool premium about a year ago.