What did you do to correct them? Were the fuses blowing before this?

Anyone install powerblades and have a humming noise coming from the speakers, I also have a pinwoofer system in my game

My Metallica is much better now,and I also added 3m double sided foam tape to the face of the power scoop just for an experiment. It helps to soften the blow,and it makes the mystery scoop more receptive .
I Googled adding foam to the scoop of a pinball machine. That's when a whole thread of MMr owners came up. They were talking about bending the scoop like I did,and they also mentioned adding dead drop foam to the power scoop. I bought some on ebay, to replace the 3m foam I'm using.
Hth
Ralph

I have power blades on my Maiden and a pinwoofer system as well. Yeah mine hums as each part of the blade lights up. Not terribly loud but it certainly does it.

must be talking Pro Snake mouth scoop. I have no issues ever on my Premium . I could never be content with a pro.
the Interactive skake Droptarget mouth is so fkin Cool

No. Issues with optos have been corrected but then fuse issues started. f10 first, then f8. So far f10 has subsided, possible bent switch/something. F8 still a huge issue. Have corresponded with Stern:

"Good Morning. Could you tell us if the fuse is being replaced with a 3 AMP SLOW BLOW fuse? If you do have the correct value fuse installed then we recommend locating J10 on the I/O board and with POWER off Disconnect J10 and power game back on.

1. If fuse blows with J10 Disconnected then there is an issue with the I/O board and he board will need to be serviced.

2. If the fuse does NOT blow with J10 Disconnected then their might be an issue with a coil. F8 is the 50V line and will be a Yellow w/Violet stripe.

3. Check wiring and make sure you have no wire broken going to one of the coils.

When you turn your game ON, and F8 is not blown, Do you hear or notice any coils that activate at power up?"

When I disconnected J10 fuses did not blow so that possibly crosses off a board issue.
I have traced wire throughout machine and have noticed no abnormalities.
I do not hear any coils activate at power up.

I have a premium also,I'm talking about the mystery scoop.

I sold my pro in the spring hoping to acquire a premium and didn’t have money when a game popped up and had money when the market was bare. I have the money now and I am going on the hunt. Anyone in PA or the surrounding states willing to part with their premium, please message me and let me know what you want for it.
Thank you
Bill Gunnett, check my feedback

Do you have a link that you used? Would love to prevent the rejects that seem more frequent now. Where does the foam go and how did you bend it? Thanks!

Check each coil lug carefully and confirm it is not touching any bracket and getting grounded out.

You need something like this to put on the face of the metal scoop where the ball hits.
https://pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=131.
They no longer sell it,so you have to find something similar. That's why I used 3m double sided foam tape. I'm waiting on a product I bought on ebay to see if it's better than the 3m foam I'm using.

Could someone explain how I fixed my mystery scoop? Every once in awhile my mystery scoop wouldn't register a hit. I'd occasionally get robbed out of a free ball or the start of Crank it up,or the the shot to end CIU. It did kick the ball back into play at least. But it didn't give the reward?

So I adjusted the switch,and now the game would go into a ball search when I hit the scoop,so I bent the arm on the switch in the other direction. Now it registers the extra ball and all the other rewards I earned.,and then it kicks the ball back into play. So now it's working 100% for me.

Is there something like two detents on the micro switch,where one registers the reward,and the other kicks the ball back into play? How did I fix the scoop into recognizing the extraball and the other rewards?
Thanks in advance
Ralph

According to this thread, many have noted the snake and mystery scoop will kick out but not give an award if the switch is not solidly pressed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-not-awarding-mystery

I had to fiddle with the snake switch on my pro to resolve the same issue.

'I guess' there is a longer/different switch debounce in the detect award versus kick out subroutines?? That is some goofy code in any case.

So I had this exact same problem on my brand new Met Pro. The mystery scoop would not always register a hit, but it would always seem to recognize the presence of the ball and always kick it out. There are not 2 detents on the micro switch, but it sure acts like there is. Apparently it takes less actuation of the switch to detect the ball, and slightly more actuation to register a hit. It is a fairly common issue from what I've read, and it is solved by doing exactly what you did. Bend the microswitch actuator arm so the ball presses it further when hitting the scoop.

Thanks a lot to the both of you. Now I have a good chance of beating my high score, now that my machine isn't ripping me off anymore
One thing to be aware of,if anyone ever replaces this switch. I tried to adjust the actuator arm by moving the micro switch.It didn't move enough to make a difference, so I retightened it. Then I noticed the little green button on the micro switch was fully depressed and it wouldn't pop back up. I loosen the mounting screws and then the little green button popped back up and then it worked fine .Somehow the screws being too tight caused the button to stay depressed ?

Have finally pinpointed my issue. After unplugging all coils and still blowing fuses I realized the sparky coil was plugged in and blowing my fuse. All coils plugged in expect Sparky and no issues.

Furthermore it’s only the yellow wire with purple on the connector that seems to trigger it so I pulled that from the connector.

However now I get literal smoke slowly coming from sparky once I shut the coin door with everything plugged in. No blown fuses but smoke.

The effects in this game are so realistic lol

6369859F-070D-45C1-9D00-8806A53993E4 (resized).jpegDFC08B69-680B-450F-AA34-0A3C0F474318 (resized).jpeg

Looks like after all said and done should just be the Sparky coil that needs replaced. It was Mister Toad's wild ride to get to this point to (hopefully) figure out the last remaining issue.

Great to see you've got a sense of humour. It might pay to check the transistor on your driver pcb that drives the sparky coil. It may be locking the coil on causing overheating etc. Also the pre driver may be cooked too

I had the same thing.. had a few issues when I received my Met pro. Loose flasher housing in backbox caused transistor to blow. Sparky coil fried. These all happened at the same time. Replaced flasher socket and corresponding transistor and bought from pinball life the upgrade secondary board for sparky that comes with replacement coil. Fitted it all. Never had a problem since!

https://www.pinballlife.com/metallica-sparky-coil-and-step-up-driver-replacement-assembly.html

Thought all you other Metallica lovers might enjoy this. Pretty awesome!

https://www.rollingstone.com/music/music-news/metallica-nothing-else-matters-with-miley-cyrus-howard-stern-show-1224074/

Just in case you didn't know this, there is a known issue with the Sparky driver board. NEVER turn off your game with the coin door open! This can cause the Sparky solenoid to lock on the next time you power up the game. I'm not sure if the newer board took care of this issue or not. Safe to just assume the issue is still there and DO NOT turn the game off with the coin door open!

Interesting. Good to know.

Do not turn the game off with the coin door open. I’d like to have a magnetic decal of this warning for my coin door ! I read about this before,but I don’t trust my memory .

Door sign mod on it's way lol, just kidding

I have this exact same issue with the snake. The switch should either register or not - "less" and "more" actuation shouldn't be physically possible with an on/off switch. Having said that, you're right that it sure acts like there are "2 detents on the micro switch". Aggravating to say the least. It feels like the switch is right, but there's a board or software somewhere not registering the hit correctly.

The way I understand this works is as follows: As the ball goes into the mech the switch is rolled over and registers. But when the ball settles in it's final resting position the switch must be held closed. It is possible to have a switch that registers on the way in, but is NOT held closed by the ball in it's resting position. It's a fine adjustment that must be done sometimes. Many Sterns can have this issue like Met, Tron, X-Men, etc.

Ugh... I'd rather listen to rabbits being killed than anything associated with Miley Cyrus.

I heard a mashup of metallica and Huey Lewis on 107.7 the Bone in S F it was funny and a little entertaining.Worth 1 listen anyway.

enter sandman

I’m so fuckin sick of Enter Sandman. If it wasn’t a crank it up song I’d get rid of that shit. That Miley Cyrus rendition sucked IMO.

Enter sandman is fine. Cyrus doing it, not so much

I really like the Ghost cover of Enter Sandman.

For those with the Powerblades installed.....how have they held up? Mine are peeling off on both sides as the adhesive is not sticking well. I was not the person who installed them so wondering if its an issue with the install or the adhesive.

Mine are fine. You could always peel it back and apply some new double sided tape. They are thick enough where you won't be able to tell.

I think I'm going to do just that. I have a roll of the real thin stuff that comes with the mirror blades.

I was told a childs gluestick from school works good too

I have mirror blades on my game and am wondering whether I can attach artblades from Pingraffix etc on the reverse side? My mirrors are slightly damaged with scrape marks and dings so thought rather than apply artblades to the cab I can apply to the blades, but on the reverse sides so I can alternate between mirror and art whenever I want etc.

I would think that would lead to much more scraping when raising and lowering the playfield. I don't think there's enough clearance between the side walls and the playfield to have "2 layers" of blades. I have PowerBladez on my Maiden and it's a tight fit with just those.

Just to follow up on this: I replaced the coil and everything that comes in that kit. Still had issues. Turned out to be something on the board that needed repaired (in the J7 area i believe) (not the area Stern suggested) anyway I was lucky enough to have it repaired locally same day and now the game is playable and almost 100%. Thank you to everyone for help and advice! You guys rock!

I still might be having opto issues as the red light is not visible on either, where as I think I remember seeing it on before (Can anyone confirm?) But all in all the game is functional and all the major issues have been fixed.

Thanks mate, but I wasn't going to put two blades on one side but just stick the decal on the mirror blade but on the non mirror side. Do you think that would work OK? Thanks

I think it would work

Still looking for a premium or le in the pa., nj., or delaware area. cash in hand, ready to buy. Thanks.

Thanks

Anybody have a part number for this stainless guide from a Metallica Pro? The studs on mine are bent and causing it to lean in on the captive ball.

7D7AA23C-DBC7-4506-8397-7C151A1B1D73 (resized).jpeg

B179C9C7-26BE-465B-870A-12186F5239F9 (resized).jpeg

C4365ABA-6A66-4DC1-928F-53F5D2FAE1B5 (resized).jpeg

Sorry if this is a stupid question but can it simply be bent back?

anyone know where to buy metallica and star trek coin door sticker/decal ?

where can I find chrome flipper buttons

I like taking care of my game by keeping it clean and waxed ,plus I like how my game plays after a good cleaning and wax job.But I do miss making the Mystery scoop shot using a full plunge,on a freshly waxed playfield.
Does this happen to anyone else after waxing their playfield?
It usually takes three weeks of play before the full plunge to the mystery scoop works again. I hope this doesn't mean I should wax my playfield again