Yes I did. The plug looked a little yellow but I could've been mistaken. I replaced the connector and reflowed pins on pcb

Oh btw, have played mny games and have had the game on sometimes for 10 plus hours and have not experienced any strobing at all. My gi intensity setting is 80%

Recently acquired a Pro and have a few questions for the group.

1. Is there a difference in the Pro vs the Prem/LE in the way the add-a-ball is handled? Mine works like this, shoot the snake when lit green, the DMD shows 20 second scoring and it adds a ball, however the snake does NOT keep the ball in its mouth for the 20 seconds. On the premium/LE's I have played the snake holds the ball.

2. This Pro has the Total Light Show installed as well as the spinner mod. Currently the spinner mod is tied to the left and right picks. I believe I read somewhere that the spinners could be tied into the total light show and not affect the guitar picks. Is this true and if so how would I accomplish this?

3. The auto launch is flaky. A high percentage of the time the auto launch doesn't make it out of the shooter lane. When starting a MB, multiple balls end up piling up in the shooter lane. Checked settings and there is not setting for the auto launch power, so not sure how to adjust.

1) Yep that is a difference between the two.
2) Does not work with latest game code.
3) Properly working, it should launch out the shooter lane easily. I don't think power is your problem. I would start by checking to see if the ball is hitting anything in the shooter lane. If it is launching clean, then actuate the launcher manually and check the solenoid and mechanism to see if anything is loose or binding.

Congrats Chad! Welcome to the club (because you know I wasn't selling you mine).

Ok I replaced that xsistor on the magnet control board.

The fuse is no longer blowing and the coffin magnet now works.

The balls are “stuck” in the coffin. They are trying to come out, but only 1 came out on a multiball. Then I later locked a 3rd ball in there and all 3 are stuck. Something is trying to activate to push them out, but nit succeeding.

This happened prior to the xsistor blowing , which then caused F7 to continuously blow.

I flipped the game off so it didnt overheat or stress out and cause that xsistor to blow again.

1. How do I get the balls out of the coffin?
2. Have others had this problem? Fix?

Edit: solved both problems.

I see in the settings, shut down diverter post, or something like that.

I think I’ve read about guys turning it off.

Why or why not? Does it stay down and increase the flow around the outer lane? If so, I am down for that.

1. In settings you can make the snake hold the ball, only problem is occasionally you will hit a second ball in there as well and may have to wait for it to be kicked out.
2. TLS used to, and also played different sound clips depending on the current mode but can’t since code update. I tied both of the spinners up to only the right target as it is the easiest to hit during gameplay so does not really make the game any easier.

Thanks for the feedback.

1. Snake now locks ball during add-a-ball. This is in fact a setting and not a difference between Pro/Premium. Thanks for the tip!

2.Since I acquired this game with TLS pre-installed, any chance you can guide or direct me in setting up the spinners to just the right pick?

If the balls are magnetized, they can get stuck in the coffin. I've had that happen before and had to change the balls to fix it.

Rob

Oddly they are getting stuck during multiball on the sparky magnet. Guess they are magnetized?

I bought the best ball baron balls (I thought).

Hello all
I have gotten a lot of e-mails requesting the 3D Snake mod be made again... So..we are finally making another small run if anyone is interested. THese take a great deal work to make.

You can pre order here: https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/metallica-3d-snake-mod-for-stern-pinball

Thanks!
Joe

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To avoid magnetization, you want carbon-steel balls which are the cheapest type.

I bought ninja chromes. Guess I need to buy some cheap ones.

One of the best mods for Met available! I prefer to keep the clear plastic at the back and have the decal that goes all the way around the ramp. Looks so good.

I've been using bc precision off Amazon for 3 years . Dont look at ratings , I've had Nothing but perfect every time I've ordered, probably 200 balls in total. And on prime, free return if needed. Lots of Amazon reviews are on all products a company has, not specific to what you're ordering. These are packed in oil and if you buy 50 or so, pretty cheap. I change out once a year, and they still look great when I do.

1. Slightly different as the premium snake jaw moves up to physically block a second ball entering.
2. The spinner switch wires can be wired in parallel then connected to the right pick target. If already wired disconnect the left spinner wiring from the left pick target and solder that to the right spinner/target as well. Not necessary but makes it slightly more challenging

Back in the club!

I had a pro previously and this time it is a premium. My old pro is on location nearby. I played it and wanted it back.

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I am interested in feedback on this topic?

Disabling the post takes away pop bumper hits and rollover accumulations to earn stuff. It's open when it's "supposed to be" normally and I see no reason to disable.

ball baron's ninja chrome balls. while they look awesome and shiny, start to become magnetized after as little as 50 plays. I tried deguasing them with a professional tool and that didn't help.

What's his name? I know a few professional tools

Hey everyone. I recently acquired a MET Pro as my first pin and I’m completely new to the hobby. There is so much more to this hobby than I ever would have imagined, but I’m loving it and hooked already.

I’ve been trying to learn as much as I can to teach myself and I’ve managed to fix several things that needed attention. However, I have one issue that is currently beyond my newbie skills. The service menu says there is an issue with switch 35, which is the Sparky stand up target between his feet. I’ve taken it out to check the gap and it looks fine. Where do I go from here? Is this a switch that can be purchased and replaced?

Go easy on the new guy please! Thanks in advance for your help!

Did you go into test mode and actually test the switch? Try that and if it is not working, check that the wires to the switch are ok.

Yes. Sometimes the error message doesn't mean there is something wrong with the switch, but that it hasn't been hit in x amount of games so it may have reset the error when you pushed on it.

Late last week I finally got to bring home the Met Premium I agreed to buy, sight unseen (just in pictures) and having never played metallica at all, about a month ago. It plays well (as I'd expect from a 2017 game) but definitely needs a good cleaning. The ColorDMD and HIRES combo on this thing is gorgeous, and I really like the powered blades it has on the sides. It gives a great effect when the game turns off the white GI.

Aside from general cleaning I seem to have the same issue a lot of prem/LE owners have: a chattery snake and the occasional "can't close" error message.. but it seems to work fine during gameplay, or at least I think so... I did have to adjust a few other weird things (behind the opto for sparky it was getting light bleed because the paper was folded the wrong way) and the cliffy in front of the jaw is.. not even secured on one side. I was thinking about just 'downgrading' to the captive ball setup on the pro because I think the block looks dumb anyway.

Hopefully I can get the snake to be a bit less......annoying. I think that's the only gripe its really giving me thus far. Awesome game -- of course being a lifetime metallica fan helps!

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What's up with the cliffy around the snake mouth? Looks like it's not installed correctly.

It came out from under the block. I just had to go look at mine, wondering if that was even the correct cliffy. It is.

Yeah, it's supposed to be secured by one of those 3 bolts for the Newton block. I'll fix it when I get the captive ball and can replace the whole thing.

I have a feeling it's going to take a lot more tinkering to get the snake to stop being so fussy.

That part came factory installed didn't it?

I would assume so, yeah.

I did go into the service menu and test it with no response. The wiring looks ok too. Could it be the diode? Can they go bad?

just make sure that you don't wrench it down too tightly. you'll flex and distort it

The Cliff Burton cross I get but seems kind of strange to me having names of people still alive on a cross.

You can have the dates they were in the band instead of when they were alive.

Yesterday I was very fortunate to pickup a Dirty Donny custom painted Sparky. I understand these were limited release years ago so I don’t want to damage it. I’ve searched the thread for any info about how to protect Sparky shoes but nothing recently, anyone have some tips on how to protect the paint on Sparky shoes from ball damage? Thanks a lot

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Wow, that Sparky looks fantastic! Re: protection, maybe add some mylar with wax underneath for easy removal? Not sure how well it would hold up over time with all the bashing, though...

The wear will just authenticate it!

Awesome thanks a lot. I’ll give it a try. Mylar is pretty sturdy and should do a decent job, at least in the short term.. gunstarhero yep it does add a bit of character and I haven’t seen a MET without the wear. Cheers

Thanks for the advice. I had a chance today to dig into this again. I pulled the switch out and checked all of the connections. Everything is tight and clean. I also tested it with a multimeter to see if there was continuity with the switch closed and there was. Any other thoughts?

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Your problem is in fact a broken diode lead like LOTR_breath suggested. Resolder or replace it and you should be good to go.

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I think that's just an optical illusion. The lead goes through the back and is soldered in place.

That’s correct. The lead goes through the hole in the switch and is soldered solid in place. You can kind of see it in the first photo.

OK, you've got continuity when the switch is closed, at the switch. Now measure the same thing at the connector at the board.

OK. Sorry to sound dumb but I’m not sure where that is. I’ll open it up and follow the wires.

If this switch is tied into the other switches that are on the white/orange and brown/Orange wires, and they are all working, won’t it still show continuity at the board? I know very little about how these circuits work.

Ah, I see it now.

After spending a few minutes referencing the manual, I think I understand this a little more. It looks like only one switch will be at the org/white & green/org intersection. So, I found those two on the board in the back box. I assume these are correct. After checking for continuity, (just touching the metal bracket holding the wire?) it was negative. So, I assume that means there is something wrong with one of these two wires between the switch and the board. Is that correct?

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