(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica Club - Ride the Lightning!

By swampfire

10 years ago


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  • 21,667 posts
  • 1,177 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Rampmaster
  • Topic is favorited by 427 Pinsiders

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There are 21,667 posts in this topic. You are on page 366 of 434.
#18251 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Is it a premium thing or after market thing? I don’t have it on my Metallica led pro. And the picture for it would suggest a slanted speaker panel so the all led era Metallica.

Monsters premium thing I believe, but not sure

#18252 3 years ago

Has anyone used this brand for their powdercoating? Looking for a nice purple that may look good on Metallica. Thanks.

https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-creations?color=pris_purple

#18253 3 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

Seriously? Its a #&$@@$$ hour just to install the mystery scoop protector? Hahahah @$#@#$##

Yep, and I scratched my plastic in the process

#18254 3 years ago

Where does this spring connect too?

BE0F94C3-1F7A-4D59-9594-319E1DF39527 (resized).jpegBE0F94C3-1F7A-4D59-9594-319E1DF39527 (resized).jpeg
#18255 3 years ago
Quoted from bobzilla:

Where does this spring connect too?
[quoted image]

Inside corner behind the right leg.

IMG_20210217_205424216 (resized).jpgIMG_20210217_205424216 (resized).jpg
#18256 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Has anyone used this brand for their powdercoating? Looking for a nice purple that may look good on Metallica. Thanks.
https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-creations?color=pris_purple

I believe Prismatic powders are quite common among coaters.
Their Illusion Violet and Illusion Purple are your best bets.

#18257 3 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

The super skill shot, vs. the skill shot is almost a worthless endeavor anyway.

I can plunge-deadbounce-deadbounce in to the scoop on the super skill shot reliably on my pro for more points, and collect anything at the scoop that is lit. (mystery/EB/EotL)

One thing I see on many pins. The 3 party plungers are a bit shorter than the stock pluger and cause some issues.

My auto launcher is a bit goofy however. Seems like half the time it plunges to the top lanes fine and the other half it cant get out the shooter lane and takes a couple tries. Need to fiddle with that. Maybe check it with the phone in slow-mo.

#18258 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I can plunge-deadbounce-deadbounce in to the scoop on the super skill shot reliably on my pro for more points, and collect anything at the scoop that is lit. (mystery/EB/EotL)
One thing I see on many pins. The 3 party plungers are a bit shorter than the stock pluger and cause some issues.
My auto launcher is a bit goofy however. Seems like half the time it plunges to the top lanes fine and the other half it cant get out the shooter lane and takes a couple tries. Need to fiddle with that. Maybe check it with the phone in slow-mo.

Ya usually the fingers that hit the ball are not hitting the ball evenly so the ball bounces around instead of nicely leaving straight out

#18259 3 years ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Found this unfamiliar heat-sink thingy in the head of my game.
Please tell me its function.
I need to move it to accommodate a speaker upgrade. It has its own fuse, mounted nearby.
[quoted image][quoted image]
**Update**
I was told by LTG that this is a bridge rectifier. I don't mind moving it. I'm just surprised to find it there as this is my fourth SAM machine and my first encounter with this thing. Do the rest of you Premium/LE owners have this rectifier? Why is it necessary when it isn't necessary on MET PRO, TWD PRO, or TWDLE?

I have that bridge rectumfier it in my Met Premium as well, just installed in different location.

#18260 3 years ago
Quoted from Bundy:

I have that bridge rectumfier it in my Met Premium as well, just installed in different location.

Thanks for letting me know.

#18261 3 years ago

** Snake Eject Trajectory **

If there has been discussion on this thread about how to adjust the Snake's eject angle so he doesn't heave a rainbow that crashes down on the playfield, I would love to hear about it and perhaps be directed to it via link. I'm searching now but not finding anything.
I had an IMDN with an ejecting scoop that worked much better than the eject on my Snake.
I know that it's common to adjust the eject of the Mystery scoop by simply manhandling the scoop's tongue a little, but the design of the Snake is much different. He seems less bendable. Do I need to shim his mounting points to change his angle?
Thanks in advance.

#18262 3 years ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

** Snake Eject Trajectory **
If there has been discussion on this thread about how to adjust the Snake's eject angle so he doesn't heave a rainbow that crashes down on the playfield, I would love to hear about it and perhaps be directed to it via link. I'm searching now but not finding anything.
I had an IMDN with an ejecting scoop that worked much better than the eject on my Snake.
I know that it's common to adjust the eject of the Mystery scoop by simply manhandling the scoop's tongue a little, but the design of the Snake is much different. He seems less bendable. Do I need to shim his mounting points to change his angle?
Thanks in advance.

Put a bit of target foam on the inside wall, right hand side. Mine would actually hit the metal post on the way out so this fixed my issue

#18263 3 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Put a bit of target foam on the inside wall, right hand side. Mine would actually hit the metal post on the way out so this fixed my issue

Snake eject on the Premium suffers compared to the PRO because the mech interior doesn't have a smooth radius.
I still need to get the trajectory more flat and less up. Just can't visualize *how* I would do that though. I'm concerned.

#18264 3 years ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

** Snake Eject Trajectory **
If there has been discussion on this thread about how to adjust the Snake's eject angle so he doesn't heave a rainbow that crashes down on the playfield, I would love to hear about it and perhaps be directed to it via link. I'm searching now but not finding anything.

the other part of the equation is how the post for the VUK is striking the ball for ejection. I mentioned this a number of years ago when I had to remove my snake mech found what a pain in the @ss it is to reassemble properly due to how the 2 halves of the assembly mate together. if the VUK post is not striking the center of the ball, I've found that the resulting trajectory is all over the place.

#18265 3 years ago

Kind of an odd request: I've been a lover of this machine since it came out but I've only owned one for a couple years. 1.80 came out right before I bought mine and I would kind of like to go back and play some of the older firmwares. Do any of you long time owners have older PRO files still kicking around? The older the better.
I want to go back to a time when people liked the machine but it was clear that the code wasn't finished.
Thanks!

img_9501 (resized).jpgimg_9501 (resized).jpg
#18266 3 years ago

I have several old versions going back into 2013.

Pm me and email addr and i can mail them to ya or setup a drop box download or something

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#18267 3 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

I have several old versions going back into 2013.
Pm me and email addr and i can mail them to ya or setup a drop box download or something
[quoted image]

Sending you a PM now! Thanks, I'm excited to try them.

10
#18268 3 years ago

I thought I’d share in this thread my:

And Justice for All ...Road case

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#18269 3 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

I thought I’d share in this thread my:
And Justice for All ...Road case
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That’s pretty dope, although you need to change your speaker panel to match now!

#18270 3 years ago

maybe a lady Justice sparky too!

#18271 3 years ago

Lady Liberty looks so much better than Lars giant forehead. Even Bullwinkle looks better than Lars giant forehead...

#18272 3 years ago

Dylan, back glass looks great can you post a pic of it lit?

#18273 3 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Dylan, back glass looks great can you post a pic of it lit?

I can’t get my ipad to take a decent pic. It only pics up the fluorescent tube in the center. My eyes don’t see it the way it photographs. It looks good though.

16
#18274 3 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

I just joined the club tonight!! I hadn't planned on it, but it sort of fell in my lap today. So we will see if it lasts or not.

In my local “for sale” thread there was a MET being offered and there was a comment on it this morning. It got me thinking about my MET.

MET might be one of the greatest games ever made. I’m making that statement after owning it for 3 years, so it’s no longer the honeymoon. The reason I bought MET was it fell into my lap for a great price. The price where I could own it for 6 months and get every dime back when I sold it. Those are my favorite kind of deals, almost like a free rental. So of course I did it.

Very quickly I liked the game. It was always fine (I had played it on location with older code), but the honeymoon was as good as you would expect. It would get a lot of play, and was pretty reliable. I added a few things, changed a bit of the lighting (green light strips under the snake look cool), ColorDMD, Cliffys, the usual stuff. I even took it to the Saratoga pinball show. Fun times.

And then the honeymoon waned. It just became another game in my collection. I always enjoyed playing it, just like all my games. But it lived right in the middle of the group. A really good game. It became one of my “end of the night” games. A game I’d play after hosting league, or if I got home from traveling and just wanted to play pinball.

There was one other change that others may not agree with, and that is the soundtrack I have on there. I wasn’t a huge Metallica fan, but really enjoyed the game. When the “Christmas Mix” version came out, I loaded it as a joke. I thought it would be fun for the season that year. Well I thought it was just awesome! So I ended up keeping it there through the year. This definitely falls into the category of “my game, my rules”. I always think people should set up their games how they like them, no matter what anyone else thinks. I really like that music on there.

And that brings us to today. Once in a while I do a “King of the collection” process with my games. It’s just a match play process of “which game would I sell”. And MET wins that competition. If I could only have one game, right now it would be MET.

It’s the variety in the game. I can play it different ways depending on my mood. That’s because of the different objectives in the game. I laugh now when people call it “wood choppy”, because yes, you have to make some shots to get rewards, welcome to pinball. I still have problems making the piston shot because I love hitting the combo right ramp to piston shots together. The multiballs are fun, and the Jack F$#&$* Pot call out still amuses me. Hitting the ramps back and forth leads to fun. Pretty much anything you do leads to fun. And you can focus in on individual ones, making it vary how you want to play. Overall it’s a great package. I think the game is going to be with me a long time. The first 3 years have worked out great!

#18275 3 years ago

So I think my magnets may not be working. No errors in service menu.

When I knock the crosses down, the ball doesnt stick up there any more to start muktiball. It doesnt stick on sparky. And it never locks by the hammer to go in the coffin. I won 2 extra balls hitting the hammer 30-40 times and havent had one ball go down even though it says lock is lit.

All of the magnets were working a day or two ago.

I probabky changed a setting by accident?

Also my left ramp isnt registering. In test mode I hit it and the switch works. Is there a trick to get the gate to hit that switch every time? The ball passes through and doesnt quite activate the switch.

#18276 3 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

So I think my magnets may not be working. No errors in service menu.
When I knock the crosses down, the ball doesnt stick up there any more to start muktiball. It doesnt stick on sparky. And it never locks by the hammer to go in the coffin. I won 2 extra balls hitting the hammer 30-40 times and havent had one ball go down even though it says lock is lit.
All of the magnets were working a day or two ago.
I probabky changed a setting by accident?
Also my left ramp isnt registering. In test mode I hit it and the switch works. Is there a trick to get the gate to hit that switch every time? The ball passes through and doesnt quite activate the switch.

Check fuses, you probably blew it. I think it is F7.

#18277 3 years ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

Check fuses, you probably blew it. I think it is F7.

Going and gettin all logical on me.

Thanks, I will report back.

#18278 3 years ago

Yep F7
3amp SB

Keeps blowing at power up.

Maybe lifting the playfield the other day, created a short somewhere?

#18279 3 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

Yep F7
3amp SB
Keeps blowing at power up.
Maybe lifting the playfield the other day, created a short somewhere?

Hmm, afraid I'm not of much more help... That fuse has blown a couple of times for me, but I just replace and all is well. Hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge can assist.

#18280 3 years ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

Hmm, afraid I'm not of much more help... That fuse has blown a couple of times for me, but I just replace and all is well. Hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge can assist.

Well the manual says 4Aslo blo. Tried, still blew.

I did some quick reading and read about a magnet control board? Anyway, i found it, pulled it, q2 is measuring dead/shorted. Now i need to identify it and find a replacement.

Edit : 15P10PL IS THE part#, now to find one.

edit again: I found the transistor on mouser.com. I will report back in a few days after I've replaced it.

7F14E23B-16FF-4B53-BE9C-F381314E376E (resized).jpeg7F14E23B-16FF-4B53-BE9C-F381314E376E (resized).jpeg

#18281 3 years ago

GI strobing has annoyed me for over a year and have tried all the possible solutions which fixed the problem for short periods of time, usually a day at the most.

I replaced the bridge rectifier with a higher rated one and fixed the issue again for maybe a few days.

I couldn't resolve the strobing at all one day except I noticed I could push the spade connectors a little further in and the problem resolved itself but for only a short time.

Well I decided to solder the wires onto the bridge rectifier and problem fixed. I now even have my Gi set to 80% and no strobing. In fact strobing will reoccur when I set intensity to more than 85%. I have had the game on for long periods of time and dozens of games and no issue .

So this could be of help to someone still struggling.

#18282 3 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

Well the manual says 4Aslo blo. Tried, still blew.
I did some quick reading and read about a magnet control board? Anyway, i found it, pulled it, q2 is measuring dead/shorted. Now i need to identify it and find a replacement.
Edit : 15P10PL IS THE part#, now to find one.
edit again: I found the transistor on mouser.com. I will report back in a few days after I've replaced it.
[quoted image]

I hope that fixes it. If you run into more issues, Pinballlife has that board for 63.95

https://www.pinballlife.com/magnet-processing-board.html

#18283 3 years ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

Hmm, afraid I'm not of much more help... That fuse has blown a couple of times for me, but I just replace and all is well. Hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge can assist.

Same here. My F7 blows about once a year, but not on power-up.

#18284 3 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

Well the manual says 4Aslo blo. Tried, still blew.
I did some quick reading and read about a magnet control board? Anyway, i found it, pulled it, q2 is measuring dead/shorted. Now i need to identify it and find a replacement.
Edit : 15P10PL IS THE part#, now to find one.
edit again: I found the transistor on mouser.com. I will report back in a few days after I've replaced it.
[quoted image]

I had not seen this thread before. Looks like the same problem you have..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-premium-blowing-f7

#18285 3 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

I had not seen this thread before. Looks like the same problem you have..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-premium-blowing-f7

I read that one. It looks like he had more problems that I am having.

I am thinking of just buying the pinball life board as a back up. It's revision D it appears. Mine is rev. C.

Unless someone things STern will sell me one cheaper?

EDIT: I just bought the one from pinballlife. I love the game, it can't hurt to have a back up.

#18286 3 years ago

one more question (for now). I am jonesing to play a little metallica. Can I play it with the magnet control board removed ? I haven't received the parts to fix this one or the new one yet.

#18287 3 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:one more question (for now). I am jonesing to play a little metallica. Can I play it with the magnet control board removed ? I haven't received the parts to fix this one or the new one yet.

Yeah you can. In the settings, there's an option to disable the magnets - at least for the hammer - so that you can have a virtual ball lock like the pro model has.

#18288 3 years ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Adjusting your shooter housing isn't hard.
1. Take out your balls (manually plunging them up or in "CLR" mode in the test menu)
2. Raise your playfield.
3. Now, from the *inside* of the cabinet, remove the two #6 machine screws (1/4" nut driver) that secure the shooter housing backing plate, then loosen all three housing mounting screws (screwdriver).
4. Now, re-tighten those same housing screws incrementally until the housing can be moved with considerable effort only.
5. Lower the playfield and lay a ball in the shooter lane.
6. Move the housing up/down/left/right until the shooter tip strikes the ball dead center.
6b. Load or remove washers on the shooter rod to ensure the shooter tip sits just a few millimeters behind the ball in the resting position.
7. Remove test ball and raise the playfield again.
8. Tighten the housing mounting screws. (Note: as you have now moved the housing, the set two set screws that had secured the backing plate will no longer line up with their holes, so leave them aside. Also, the upper-right mounting screw is harder to access with a screwdriver than the rest, and it's very handy to use a wiggle bit in that case.)
9. Lower the playfield and test fire the shooter on a test ball. If the tip still isn't lined up with the ball, repeat the prior steps until it does.
Note: in some cases, the housing will be unable to move far enough in the cabinet bore to align the shooter tip with the ball. In such cases, it's necessary to either shim the housing or modify the cabinet bore slightly to allow you to shift the housing sufficiently.

So I have adjusted the shooter housing to the max. The plunger is still too high, and only lines up with the top of the ball. Not enough umph to launch around for super skill shot. Hardly enough for regular skill shot in most cases. Guess its time to tear it apart and start drilling stuff?

#18289 3 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

So I have adjusted the shooter housing to the max. The plunger is still too high, and only lines up with the top of the ball. Not enough umph to launch around for super skill shot. Hardly enough for regular skill shot in most cases. Guess its time to tear it apart and start drilling stuff?

You could try bending the two S brackets that hold the playfield in place.
It could have bent over time etc

#18290 3 years ago
Quoted from Vimtoman:

You could try bending the two S brackets that hold the playfield in place.
It could have bent over time etc

Aaaaah. I will look there first. Thank you

#18291 3 years ago

So odd to me but maybe not to longer-time owners.

Magnet control board is completely removed.

Now the drop target multiball lock is holding the ball, it also grabs and wiggles it around before lightning shooting it back at the flipper, and.. the sparky magnet is grabbing it and redirecting it. I didnt get a sparky multiball to see if it would hold it.

#18292 3 years ago

Sorry for sidetrack, but this auction just ended yesterday and just need to share this.. not my auction, but I got a numbered version of this (this one is another AP edition).

It’s not just pinball that prices have gone up... collectibles in general have gone up. I paid $150 for mine 3 years ago.

3CDCA640-4084-4873-85DD-802978248C83 (resized).png3CDCA640-4084-4873-85DD-802978248C83 (resized).png
#18293 3 years ago
Quoted from zermeno68:

Sorry for sidetrack, but this auction just ended yesterday and just need to share this.. not my auction, but I got a numbered version of this (this one is another AP edition).
It’s not just pinball that prices have gone up... collectibles in general have gone up. I paid $150 for mine 3 years ago.
[quoted image]

Ha, I think mine was $75.00 new when I bought it off the website.

#18294 3 years ago

Shout out to Johns pizza!

#18295 3 years ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Ha, I think mine was $75.00 new when I bought it off the website.

Nice man! I missed out first sale dates.

Quoted from TronGuy:

Shout out to Johns pizza!

No doubt. My kids love going to the birthday parties there. Hope COVID slows down to get back to “normal”.

#18296 3 years ago

Last call for Dirty Donny guitar pick elevated rollover lane lights. I have enough components to make a handful of kits and when they run out, I won't be making more of these.

They're in my store. Thanks to everyone who's purchased a set in the past.

Links to animated GIFs of the lights:
Player's View
Spider Picks
Snake Picks
Eyeball Picks

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1171-pinball-z/02184-elevated-rollover-lane-lights-metallica-pro

f9ac00c51f4c94fdfa9fd27a89597d21f3adaa12.jpgf9ac00c51f4c94fdfa9fd27a89597d21f3adaa12.jpg

#18297 3 years ago

.dupe.

#18298 3 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

GI strobing has annoyed me for over a year and have tried all the possible solutions which fixed the problem for short periods of time, usually a day at the most.
I replaced the bridge rectifier with a higher rated one and fixed the issue again for maybe a few days.
I couldn't resolve the strobing at all one day except I noticed I could push the spade connectors a little further in and the problem resolved itself but for only a short time.
Well I decided to solder the wires onto the bridge rectifier and problem fixed. I now even have my Gi set to 80% and no strobing. In fact strobing will reoccur when I set intensity to more than 85%. I have had the game on for long periods of time and dozens of games and no issue .
So this could be of help to someone still struggling.

Did you replace the power connector on the GI control board under the playfield?

Rob

#18299 3 years ago
Quoted from zermeno68:

Nice man! I missed out first sale dates.

No doubt. My kids love going to the birthday parties there. Hope COVID slows down to get back to “normal”.

Heres me on the menu , (holding the pizza boxes) circa 1992. (I was the gm there from 93-94)

Edit: and thats Mark Hoppus from blink 182 , on the left.
B419B23D-4E6C-45D9-B69F-41A8C7D4D328 (resized).jpegB419B23D-4E6C-45D9-B69F-41A8C7D4D328 (resized).jpeg

#18300 3 years ago

Anyone making the snake eye led mod?

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