I’m trying to get my parents to have a pinball machine and my dad is a big Metallica fan. The issue is they are concerned about what the grandkids would hear. I’m surprised the parental settings don’t turn everything off. Maybe this isn’t going to work.

Would it be a reasonable compromise to just attenuate all of the callouts? Do the parental settings also beep out song swears as well?

You can turn off adult mode in settings

Yes but even with adult mode off you can still get "hell yeah" which some may find not be suitable for the kids.

I have the exact same issue and cannot understand it. The switch is clearly working as it's recognizing the ball to spit it out, but not the hit. Seems like a programming glitch to me. And it might happen occasionally for a few weeks, then works 100% for three months after. I've seen this issue brought up multiple times here, but no answers.

ANYONE: Why is the switch working to kick the ball out, but not register the hit?

If hell disturbs someone then they should not have this game. To each his own,

Does someone have the link/info for an upgraded orbit post at the top of the playfield? I remember seeing on here someone replacing theirs as the factory one often kicks the ball backwards instead of stopping it to allow it to roll forward after the post drops back down. Seeing over four hundred entries for "orbit" and "post" searches I figured I'd ask directly.

I believe there are two switches. One for the VUK and one to register the hit. If so its likely one is not registering properly. I would put the game in switch test and activate the correct switch, looking for intermittent issues. If needed, replace switch. Manual will help for specific part numbers/locations/name of switch.

It's one of the keyposts listed at top:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/46#post-2277072

Utility of LED OCD Board in MET?

I realize this may sound idiotic, but...

I understand that LED OCD boards help older games - System-11, for instance - manage fade effects with LED bulbs. I happen to like the fade effects that lamp boards from older pins use with the insert- and GI lighting. (The beautiful LOTR at my local barcade is a perfect example). In conjunction with amber inserts, the fade helps create a glow effect - a bit like smoldering embers.

Now, MET originally shipped with incandescent bulbs, correct? Did those games have fade effects in their lighting software? Could those fade effects be reclaimed with the use of an LED OCD board in MET? I want my MET to glow, just like that LOTR. Possible?

** Update **

I just learned that, yes, LED OCD boards do work with MET PRO but *not* with MET Premium. The Premium/LE games shipped with LEDs and lamp boards with SMDs. I don't know if the game code in the PRO had significant fade effects. Perhaps it had none as the Premium/LE had none, too. In any case, I can't use an OCD board with a Premium so I'll leave it there.

Yes, there are ocd boards for sam games.

Hi guys,

I recently got a bug twice, the game is ending my ball for no reason.
No idea ehy it happened, dead flipper, bonus countdown, and of course ball drained.

Any idea? Is this known?

You mean those links I looked at dozens of times when I first started reading all 300+ pages of this thread and then eventually ignored?

Actually, it's a dead link now. Hopefully they'll respond to my email about a replacement.

Eh, I usually forget to look at them too. And oops, I didn't click the PBL link when I posted it. Hopefully they can sort it out for you!

Re-seat your trough connector. I remember having this issue and I'm pretty sure that is what fixed it for me. I zip tie those connectors together now so they don't come loose.

I second this suggestion. Your game thinks you've drained when you haven't. Your trough has a row of micro switches and - I *think* - an opto sensor. It's unlikely that one of the switches is detecting a phantom ball, so perhaps the opto isn't happy or connected right. The opto is a two-piece affair, with one board on either side of the trough close to the ball eject. There's a trough test in the menu. I believe it's called "CLR." Use that to check the function of all the trough switches. You enter the CLR test mode, then press the Start button to fire balls. You see the balls in the trough represented graphically on the DMD. But, as DGposter said, draw your PF out to the first service position and reseat all related connectors first. Good luck.

There are going to learn sometime if they don't know already.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-bell-armature-plunger-assembly-a-17986.html

Irony: Emailing them asking for a replacement, me telling THEM the part number (stated in their defunct link) is A-17986...and them sending me to a 515-1079-00 (different item). Thanks for the link! I didn't realize the steel A-17986 is a common part.

Just one that I see. If there is a second one hiding somewhere, someone please let me know!

Also magnetized balls can do weird things to the game while they hang up in the trough.

Good point!

Real common SAM problem... my Star Trek loved to phantom drain too, but unplugging and replugging in the trough (as suggested above) sorted it right out.

I concur...

I'm not one to advocate the teaching of "curse" words to the youth... But if "hell yeah" is objectionable for the youths, they shouldn't be anywhere near a "Metallica" pin.

There are many more family friendly pins. It's either your dad is ok without a MET pin, or "hell yeah" is ok.

I'm sure you are aware but during gameplay, you literally send sparky to the electric chair...

Do his eyes still pop in “family” mode?

No idea... I've never turned family mode on.

Yes everything is the same on the dmd. Family mode puts some almost sarcastically placed beeps over the curse words I believe. It’s obvious what is really being said to me anyways.

Jack-fu<beep>n-pot!

Rick

One of the best callouts in pinball. Laugh every time hetfield says

Love it as well. I actually like the bleeps for whatever reason. Do wish there was a true family mode you could switch on when little kids are over. Sometimes I don't know the parents well and if it would be a problem. Guess that is a bit silly given it's a heavy metal band drawn up like monsters kind of pin. Still, doesn't take much effort to add another setting and swap out some of the callouts.

Wanted: PinbBits Fluorescent Green Plastics Protector Set, New or Used

I know it's a long shot, but maybe someone on this thread has one kicking around that they never bothered to install. No response from PinBits on when they will restock.

Thanks.

https://cointaker.com/products/metallic-florescent-green-plastic-protector-set

I bet these are the same?

on my machine, I do not believe that the introduction of the mantis protector increased scoop rejects but the cliffy did. however, it's a level that I'm completely comfortable with given the level of protection that both provide to the mystery hole edges. only really slow moving balls will bounce off of the edge of the cliffy protector.

I think I have a set still in the box. I can check when I get home later tonight.

I think Cointakers' are a little thinner than Pinbits plastics.

BTW, as others posted earlier in the thread, my plunger was becoming more off center to the left. Resulting in the ball hitting the rail and casting the ball into the center of the playfield near the pops. On both regular and auto-plunge.

Then it would just sloppily trickle out to the orbit and down to the flippers. No skill shot makeable, and just became beyond annoying.

So I removed the whole shooter housing, placed nylon washers on both left screws. Had to carve one a bit to accommodate the shooter tube.

45C4992B-6F31-43D8-99F1-CAAF96C89FE0 (resized).jpeg064768E0-7598-40B6-BE0A-188EC6A3CD88 (resized).jpeg3DE3B1E2-09AD-40EF-9260-3AF3770A4DF0 (resized).jpeg730C1FC3-D2EB-4648-B985-3C3875B464F4 (resized).jpeg

Then had to readjust the rail screw right at the top of the shooter lane before the drop off. Now works perfectly and shouldn’t shift again.

C43B3D61-1758-47DF-A987-29B39FA01AE7 (resized).jpeg

I have a guy making me a translite for my soon to be here metallica premium. He needs an exact measurement. He feels like he has seen a bunch of different dimensions out there.

Does anyone care to measure the translite when they get a chance?

Thanks but the Pinbits set has more pieces.

You arent getting anything from pinbits... they havent shipped an order in months.

There are a couple connections down there and i find they all wriggle lose.

Well, maybe not directly from Pinbits

79AC366C-1D6B-4152-9224-0E7668801B8F (resized).jpeg

B474D755-A5DB-48EF-8EF6-14F2336D410A (resized).jpeg

CC5AF89D-8831-41FA-BC3B-E79AEE23837F (resized).jpeg

C3C7E113-920B-4EF5-BC97-BD0D92891D46 (resized).jpeg

Just upgraded my pro to a premium.
Have to solce the one issue I saw: jaw closing.
Working fime when pf is raised but not in game.
Probably the latch to adjust.

Looking for a met premium, PM me if anybody within several hours of central VA is thinking about getting out.

Next question: My hammer goes down AFTER the magnet has already sunk and swallowed the ball.
Is there any way to make them both happen in the same time as it was intended?

Does anyone happen to know the Pinball Browser code request number for the Premium/LE spinner sounds?
Thanks in advance.

does any know where I can find this file? or link to it. thinking of going to a local print company and getting some made. also looking for file to print the dmd light blocker. thanks

What exactly is it you're looking for?

im looking for the files to take to a local print shop & print the piece that goes around the dmd to block light and the cross inserts pieces that block the bleeding light around the cross

After replacing the plastic diverter post in the orbit with a metal one, has anyone NOT noticed a difference? I'm only seeing a small improvement. Instead of it bouncing back 50% of the time now the ball only bounces back 25% of the time. Better, but not quite what I expected. Also, any concerns about the post being smaller than the original and making the gap between the post and playfield larger? I'd hate to have that start showing wear on the post hole over time because of the gap.

Mines been replaced since I bought the game several years ago. It works almost 100% of the time, and shows no wear.

Yup. It only helped mine a little and mostly on soft shots. Hard clean shots still bounce back pretty regularly. I was pretty annoyed at first, but I have learned to just live with it.

Maybe this?? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4735665

Off-Topic: It is important to review the specific license allowances for models on thingiverse (and elsewhere for that matter). This one in particular is listed as non-commercial, so would be an infringement for a print house. This isn't the right thread to discuss these kind of issues, but you need keep these things in mind. Suggestion to Dee-Bow is to make a friend with somebody that has a printer (like your once a house move truck friend!), or get in touch with the designer to see if you can work something out.