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(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 17,828 posts
  • 999 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by Flash71
  • Topic is favorited by 366 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

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There are 17828 posts in this topic. You are on page 354 of 357.
#17651 3 months ago

...actually I'm not completely convinced that the captive ball height is the issue. At least, it appears that the captive ball is already slightly higher than the ball in play, which would make sense since the captive ball is sitting on a metal plate. I'll try anything to stop the airballs, though.

#17652 3 months ago

So my son asked me last night "does the snakes mouth move? It looks like it could move" ... "no this one doesnt have that, but yeah sort of looks like it could doesn't it"

I look at the mouth from the top and im thinking, surely someones had a look at this. Search the forums and didnt find anything specific referencing it.

That leads to my stupid question ... has anyone tried modding the pro versions snake jaw to make it move/be interactive?

Seeing the cross has been added would it be possible to add the premium snake mech + coil using the same method (timebandits tls/matrix interceptor?).
Is the underside of a pro physically different that would stop it from being installed?

#17653 3 months ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to raise the captive ball? I replaced the block with the captive ball from pinballlife a few months back and have also been getting airballs into the graveyard area. I am thinking of putting washers in somewhere...

I would check to see the alignment with an actual pinball to see where it is striking the captive ball. it should be close to the same mid point of both balls when they make contact. I know that you can easily [raise] the captured ball using washers, but I'm not so sure about lowering it

#17654 3 months ago
Quoted from koops:

So my son asked me last night "does the snakes mouth move? It looks like it could move" ... "no this one doesnt have that, but yeah sort of looks like it could doesn't it"
I look at the mouth from the top and im thinking, surely someones had a look at this. Search the forums and didnt find anything specific referencing it.
That leads to my stupid question ... has anyone tried modding the pro versions snake jaw to make it move/be interactive?
Seeing the cross has been added would it be possible to add the premium snake mech + coil using the same method (timebandits tls/matrix interceptor?).
Is the underside of a pro physically different that would stop it from being installed?

I’m pretty sure it would fit, but would not be worth the trouble. It hardly effects gameplay, other than the hold during multiball, and does not have a big visual impact either.

#17655 3 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I would check to see the alignment with an actual pinball to see where it is striking the captive ball. it should be close to the same mid point of both balls when they make contact. I know that you can easily [raise] the captured ball using washers, but I'm not so sure about lowering it

I put washers under the captive ball to raise it and I still get air balls into the cemetery in particular. Not sure how much higher I can or should make it

#17656 89 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I put washers under the captive ball to raise it and I still get air balls into the cemetery in particular. Not sure how much higher I can or should make it

So weird. I replaced the block before I ever played my game and have not had an airball off of the captive ball.

#17657 89 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

So weird. I replaced the block before I ever played my game and have not had an airball off of the captive ball.

I get crazy air balls, but I don't give a crap.

#17658 89 days ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

...actually I'm not completely convinced that the captive ball height is the issue. At least, it appears that the captive ball is already slightly higher than the ball in play, which would make sense since the captive ball is sitting on a metal plate. I'll try anything to stop the airballs, though.

Could it be that the ball is getting airborne slightly before hitting the captive ball? Is it hitting the magnet, lifting, and then striking the captive ball higher than it should?

This is what was happening with the TWD prison doors when putting on a magnet ring protector. The ball would lift and hit the prison doors at a height that wouldn't allow the optos to register the hit. Once someone figured that out, the problem went away for those of us removing the magnet protector ring.

#17659 89 days ago

Do you have a cliffy on the hammer magnet? I had to remove mine because it’d send it into the bottom of the hammer. Also, make sure that magnet isn’t sitting too high

#17660 89 days ago
Quoted from Sparky:

Could it be that the ball is getting airborne slightly before hitting the captive ball? Is it hitting the magnet, lifting, and then striking the captive ball higher than it should?

Quoted from tilted81:

Do you have a cliffy on the hammer magnet? I had to remove mine because it’d send it into the bottom of the hammer. Also, make sure that magnet isn’t sitting too high

I'll have to try to see if it's gaining any air off of the magnet. It's kind of difficult to see what's going on since it's so random. No cliffy on the magnet and it appears flush with the playfield...

#17661 87 days ago

How can I tell if my METLE has the new magnet board or not? I've found that the Hammer magnet only grabs the ball on very slow rollovers.

#17662 87 days ago
Quoted from flashburn:

How can I tell if my METLE has the new magnet board or not? I've found that the Hammer magnet only grabs the ball on very slow rollovers.

It should say REV D.

#17663 87 days ago
Quoted from Bundy:

It should say REV D.

Hmmm, thanks. I checked and it does say REV D. I can't really remember with my old METLE if it grabbed the ball better than this, but I thought so.

#17664 87 days ago

Plan on buying a Metallica Pro and was wondering if you do a code update does the total games played go to zero? Thanks

#17666 87 days ago
Quoted from GamesbyAPK:

Plan on buying a Metallica Pro and was wondering if you do a code update does the total games played go to zero? Thanks

Should say "Total Plays" 0
And also say "Life Time Plays" xxx

#17667 87 days ago

Do you know what number audit that is?

#17668 87 days ago
Quoted from GamesbyAPK:

Do you know what number audit that is?

#16 or #17 I believe

#17669 87 days ago

Under "Standard Audit"

#17670 86 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Love mine
[quoted image]

That is awesome! Where did you find that one? Custom made I assume.

#17671 86 days ago
Quoted from Flash71:

That is awesome! Where did you find that one? Custom made I assume.

Thanks, yes... Matt McKee made a few back in the day

1 week later
31
#17672 79 days ago

Time to put some life back into this thread.

My wife just surprised me with a 15th anniversary gift for the games room to accompany our Metallica Pro.

The photo does not do it “justice”. Amazing idea.

I present to you…

Metallica …AND PINBALL FOR ALL custom neon sign.

B0891E5F-B3CE-4746-A468-2B29365CF7DC (resized).jpeg
#17673 79 days ago

Thats badass!!

#17674 78 days ago

So I'm looking to add some color to my pro. LCD or LED? Please help!!

#17675 78 days ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

So I'm looking to add some color to my pro. LCD or LED? Please help!!

There's a whole thread about the LCD vs LED debate. I have a 'tallica with a color LED display and a TWD with a color LCD display. They both do the job, but have their strengths and weaknesses. First off, if it's got the metal backbox, installing the LCD display requires more effort because of the size of the bezel. There will be a gap between the LCD and the speaker panel that needs to be blacked out with some kind of trim, or electrical tape. The LCD also becomes slightly washed out at off angles, so it looks better for the player than it does for spectators. The key advantage is that the images on the LCD display can be set to display larger dots, squared dots, or even upscaled to create smooth images instead of just dots.

The LED display fits right in where the original red display sits, so it's easier to install and there is no gap. The downside is that you can't change the appearance of the dots on the LED display and there is no upscaling options. It is basically like the original Stern display, but with color dots. This means it looks the same at off angles as it does for the player and contrast is much better with true blacks in the image. So it comes down to whether you want to be able to change the appearance of your dots and how important contrast and viewing angle is to you. It really comes down to personal preference.

#17676 78 days ago
Quoted from tbpd349:

Time to put some life back into this thread.
My wife just surprised me with a 15th anniversary gift for the games room to accompany our Metallica Pro.
The photo does not do it “justice”. Amazing idea.
I present to you…
Metallica …AND PINBALL FOR ALL custom neon sign.[quoted image]

That is one of a kind and certified bad-ass!

#17677 78 days ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

So I'm looking to add some color to my pro. LCD or LED? Please help!!

Check posts # 13781 and 13786
LCD is the go for Met

#17678 77 days ago
Quoted from tbpd349:

Time to put some life back into this thread.
My wife just surprised me with a 15th anniversary gift for the games room to accompany our Metallica Pro.
The photo does not do it “justice”. Amazing idea.
I present to you…
Metallica …AND PINBALL FOR ALL custom neon sign.[quoted image]

This has to be stated again.... "That is Badass!" Super awesome the wife was thoughtful in a gift that involved the family gameroom.

Now, have your wife get a hold of my wife to inform her how to provide an awesome gift such as that.

Super Jealous.

#17679 77 days ago

Does anyone sell ramp decals for Met premium? I checked Tilt Graphics and didn't see any

#17680 77 days ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

So I'm looking to add some color to my pro. LCD or LED? Please help!!

I had a Color LED in my Metallica and it looked okay, but I really didn't care for it so I swapped it out with the Color LCD from my STTNG. The Color LED looks AMAZING in STTNG, way better than the LCD did; I've heard similar thing as well from others that the LED seems to look a lot better in the older Bally/Williams DMD games.

#17681 77 days ago
Quoted from tbpd349:

Time to put some life back into this thread.
My wife just surprised me with a 15th anniversary gift for the games room to accompany our Metallica Pro.
The photo does not do it “justice”. Amazing idea.
I present to you…
Metallica …AND PINBALL FOR ALL custom neon sign.[quoted image]

Freak’n wicked man. Tell her well done. She’s a keeper.

1 week later
#17682 70 days ago

My buddy just dropped off his Metallica Premium. It has had a controlled lamp problem from day 1. I hope to finally get this resolved. Here is a video of one symptom. During gameplay a common frustration is not being able to tell which pick targets are flashing for add-a-ball. Anyone seen a problem like this before?

#17683 70 days ago
Quoted from tinyrodent:

My buddy just dropped off his Metallica Premium. It has had a controlled lamp problem from day 1. I hope to finally get this resolved. Here is a video of one symptom. During gameplay a common frustration is not being able to tell which pick targets are flashing for add-a-ball. Anyone seen a problem like this before?

I don't recall anyone bringing that problem up in this thread before, and I've been here since the start. That is interesting for sure, good luck..

#17684 70 days ago
Quoted from tinyrodent:

It has had a controlled lamp problem from day 1.

Since it occurs when flipping, it seems something is making a poor connection. The premiums had the GI blinking problem caused by a poor data cable connection under the playfield. (you can search and see the GI issues related to the network cable/connector/soldering) This appears similar. You can probably track it down by tapping on the cables and node boards under the playfield.

#17685 70 days ago

Does anyone have a lead on where I can find the snake head weldement for Prem/LE? Part number 515-9669-00
Marco is sold out and mine snapped mid game making my snake sink into the playfield

8B9F7899-2A06-493B-ACF2-E528CC3E8D03 (resized).jpeg
#17686 69 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Since it occurs when flipping, it seems something is making a poor connection. The premiums had the GI blinking problem caused by a poor data cable connection under the playfield. (you can search and see the GI issues related to the network cable/connector/soldering) This appears similar. You can probably track it down by tapping on the cables and node boards under the playfield.

Follow the data cable (looks like a grey phone line) from the board under the playfield and check it's connection in the head of the game also.

#17687 69 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Follow the data cable (looks like a grey phone line) from the board under the playfield and check it's connection in the head of the game also.

Thanks already tried a replacement data cable, no change.

#17688 69 days ago
Quoted from tinyrodent:

Thanks already tried a replacement data cable, no change.

The lamps blink when you flip, I assume they also blink if you knock on the playfield, so give that a try. (confirming a bad connection)

#17689 69 days ago

It's never easy to diagnose an intermittent problem. I tried a few times before to debug this with lamp test mode but it always seemed to work fine there. Finally I got a fault - this photo is All Lamps test, the ones which are on should NOT be, all the others are flashing (off). I traced the wires of a few and they were all in the white group from LED Board 2. I removed all 3 connectors and reseated them. And got to play a game with the lamps working properly! We'll see if this holds or not.

all lamps (resized).jpg
#17690 69 days ago
Quoted from tinyrodent:

It's never easy to diagnose an intermittent problem. I tried a few times before to debug this with lamp test mode but it always seemed to work fine there. Finally I got a fault - this photo is All Lamps test, the ones which are on should NOT be, all the others are flashing (off). I traced the wires of a few and they were all in the white group from LED Board 2. I removed all 3 connectors and reseated them. And got to play a game with the lamps working properly! We'll see if this holds or not.
[quoted image]

Awesome! Well done!

#17691 68 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Does anyone have a lead on where I can find the snake head weldement for Prem/LE? Part number 515-9669-00
Marco is sold out and mine snapped mid game making my snake sink into the playfield

A cheaper, stronger option to consider is having it welded back. It might cost $40, but likely $20 as it is a small job(US prices.) And....No delayed shipping!
It's under the PF, so it'll never be seen, just be careful if a weld bead is put on the wood side as a clearance issue could be created. Likely, only the non-PF side will need to be done. I've done this a couple times on other machines/brackets and the welds have never failed.

#17692 68 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Does anyone have a lead on where I can find the snake head weldement for Prem/LE? Part number 515-9669-00
Marco is sold out and mine snapped mid game making my snake sink into the playfield
[quoted image]

Try amd to order it

#17693 68 days ago

a small ask about the PRO VAULT version in LED, and a supposed (?) last run of 60 of these having few added features (appron, JB signed card)
could someone tell me more, or point me to a link ?

tanx in advance

#17694 67 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Does anyone have a lead on where I can find the snake head weldement for Prem/LE? Part number 515-9669-00
Marco is sold out and mine snapped mid game making my snake sink into the playfield
[quoted image]

Get a dealer to order it from Stern.

#17695 67 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Awesome! Well done!

Nope not even close, got only a handful of good games in, then the controlled lamp problems returned with a vengeance. And now the GI is flickering as well. I went around wiggling every connector without success. Perhaps there is a short somewhere, insulation worn through, or a dodgy butt splice. Not easy to find in any case.

#17696 67 days ago
Quoted from tinyrodent:

I went around wiggling every connector without success.

Intermittent problem = Bad connector / solder joint / cable. Sometimes wiggling the connector does not affect it, sometimes it does.

#17697 67 days ago
Quoted from tinyrodent:

Nope not even close, got only a handful of good games in, then the controlled lamp problems returned with a vengeance. And now the GI is flickering as well. I went around wiggling every connector without success. Perhaps there is a short somewhere, insulation worn through, or a dodgy butt splice. Not easy to find in any case.

Friend of mine had a similar problem and it was a bad surface mount resistor on one of the node boards. The guy who fixed it was able to solder in a regular type resistor in place of it. Sorry I don't have any more details.

#17698 65 days ago

Isn't MET a SAM game, so I don't think it has node boards?

#17699 65 days ago
Quoted from Apex:

Isn't MET a SAM game, so I don't think it has node boards?

That's correct.

#17700 65 days ago

It had a lot of surface mount shit on it like a node board.

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