1,2,3,5, color dmd,custom sparky, external sub,shaker

After a few years of not selling the Micro Display Mods (other than the TV versions), these are back in my Pinside Shop and on Mezelmods with a few changes.

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Anyone know where I can get these LED colored light MODS for the 4 bottom items (cross,sparky, coffin, snake). The white lights don't look as AMAZING as these colors, methinks. I know a guy on Pinside used to sell them but I don't think he does anymore. Anysuggestions?

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Hey Sparky, my original ones are still going strong.

Good morning fellow Metallica owners,

I need to pick your brain with an issue that just occurred with my Met Pro. It appears that the left coil seized up on me totally (flipper stuck in the up position) and the left flipper was stuck (stuck in the up position as well) but actually moveable. I have the coils and sleeves to replace both flipper components, but I am afraid that there may be a big issue at play here, potentially a transistor on the board in the backbox. Would someone be able to confirm or deny my suspicions, and if so, point me to the faulty transistor on the board? I am unsure how to test the transistors with my newly bought multimeter, so I was hoping one of you would have pity on me and explain how to do this. I thank you for your time and consideration with respect to this request and look forward to your responses.

does the flipper drop down when the game is turned off? if so, it is almost certainly a blown transistor. The transistor is Q15 according to the manual and you need need STP22NE10L, which can be found at Marco https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/STP22NE10L or other suppliers. as for testing the transistor, check pinwiki, but if I recall, you should not get continuity across the legs.

I've had this exact issue before and yes, in my case, it was a blown transistor. fortunately, it's a through hole component, so it's fairly easy to swap out if you have the proper tools

Hi Guys,

Thanks for responding so quickly. I am glad it is a simple fix in the backbox. j_m_ - what did you mean by a through hole component? Sorry your talking to a non-techno wizards here. Can you please clarify.

Thank you.

Hi Lermods,

Love your mods btw; got the backbox LED interactive kit for my machine! Anyways, to answer your question, no the flippers did not go down when the machine was turned off as the blown transistor caused issues with the coil. The coil fried keeping it locked on in the upright position. I believe the answer is, and correct me if I am wrong, replace the coil and coil sleeves, on both flippers and then replace the transistor in Q15? Please confirm.

Thank you,

thx. the coils have different transistors associated with them so there is no need to touch the other flipper, unless it has an issue or it's time for a rebuild. I would just replace q15 and the coil and sleeve on the left flipper. Sometimes, transistors will just blow, but many times something causes it so look around for any shorts, could have been the coil itself causing the issue. through hole basically means the legs on the transistor go through the holes on the board, which is much easier to repair compared to surface mounted components.

I don't own a Metallica yet, but it's my understanding that the Pro has lights you can change (555 type) but the Prem/LE has PCB led boards. It looks like you have a Pro, so you should just swap out bulbs with colored ones. I would also order this bracket to better position the lights...

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1180-slap-save-creations/02305-metallica-crank-it-up-light-bracket

Had that issue on a ST. Was the transistor. Had to take the board out and have a new one soldered on. Now it works fine.

"thru hole" components that are components that have legs and/or wires that run from one side of a pc board to the other (eg. easy to work on with a soldering iron / solder sucker) vs. new tech like the stern node boards where 90% of the components are surface mount and require more expensive tools (and the know how) to fix

I think that the reason they are a little hard to find is the "OCD" in some people (like me). I think they look good in color but they wouldn't match their cooresponding inserts on the playfield. The snake is amber, the cross is white, I guess you can possibly call the coffin red as it lights red when locked and the electric chair is again white. You can buy the gels off amazon and cut to fit the colors your like.

Hello. I have tried to do a search but wasn't successful in finding what I am looking for. Besides the LEDs, is there any other difference between the original MET Pros vs the last run? If you have a non LED early run and put LEDs in the game, are they essentially the same games? Looking to the pull the trigger on one or the other and both are options right now. Save money and go with earlier run with nice mods, or go with the last run with no mods?

Thanks for any assistance.

I have a first run, and live pretty close if you want to check one out.
The originals had a wood backbox is the only other difference I can think of.

You could pay $2.99/each plus Marco shipping or you could just order 10 IRL540's from GPE to get the 10% discount, $1.12/each and he will charge very little in shipping. Get ten cause eventually you'll need them in this hobby! Good luck with your repair.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp

Whenever I'm unsure of the exact way to test a particular transistor, I always test another known working one on the board, then just compare your findings to the transistor in question. You'll know right away if something doesn't seem right.

That looks like a poor imitation of my light bracket (posted in this thread). First person to respond gets a free bracket.

I need a bracket.

It’s yours! PM me your address.

Thanks!

Got my Cemetery mod and installed it. Took 10 mins and it is absolutely awesome! Thanks Allan!

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Hey guys!

I started playing my Metallica Pro this past weekend and it's a friggin blast so far! A few issues I noticed, just wondering if they're "normal" or problems that I'd need to fix?

1) For the CROSS drop-downs, 70% of the time when I hit the first target, the 2nd one drops at the same time. Sometimes the 2nd one drops before the 1st one. Seems wrong.

2) Whenever I shoot a ball around the left side orbit/loop, 80% of the time it gets stopped at the very top and gets send back down, i.e. doesn't go all the way around, or get to the bumpers. It does it from the right side as well, but less than 50% of the time, I'd say. In both cases, I'm talking about during "regular play". During modes or CIP, it does seem to go around more often. I also hear the plastic POST *pop up* at the top of the playfield pretty loudly. I can even hear it over the music sometimes....annoying. Is that normal or something that I can fix?

3) This isn't a physical issue or anything, but WHERE on the playfield do you see if you have 2x or 4x going? I hear it sometimes, but can never tell via the playfield (it's pretty clear on most pins)

PS: I'm not a techie by any means. Thanks for understanding!

You can make a plastic bracket and mount small light strips to it from Comet. These can then be also matched to the playfield lights like at the end of this vid of my pro. May be a little less effective if you are not running the Total Lightshow board.

i think i blew up my shaker tonight. It just keeps going even after the game is over

Traded for a Met Prem last week and I'm having an issue.

I'm fairly new to owning pinball machines so sorry if my description of the problem isn't the best. Ever since getting setting up the machine I'm having a issue with launching the ball. When using the shooting rod/plunger the ball will bounce back and forth in the shooting lane, often ricocheting so much it will become airborne and land in the right drain. This happens about 50% of the time. When it autoplunges I've never had an issue.

I've made sure the machine is perfectly level. The guy I traded with said he never had and issue and said to check the shooting rod. How can I adjust a shooting rod? It looks pretty center to me. Any other suggestions? Can I set the machine to always autoplunge?

Here's a video demonstrating the ball bouncing back and forth in the lane: https://drive.google.com/file/d/16tZ0Q_g2wh6kH1XoKNsKym-yQbaGWAnm/view?usp=drivesdk

Any help would be much appreciated! I basically can't play it as it is right now.

Thank you.

Hey all, any idea what is yellow light on the board means?

Thanks

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Check the Cliffy protector that is on the left. It almost looks like it's sitting over the shooter lane so that the ball doesn't sit properly in the shooter lane.

I could be wrong but I thought the original run w/ the wood backbox had bulbs everywhere, but the metal backbox ones have more boards like the premium/le’s.

Got mine from HankScorpio (pinmods) a couple years ago. He may still make them?

First disconnect your shaker otherwise you can cause other issues. You have most probably blown up the tip transistor on the shaker pcb. You'll need to replace it, but the is a check you can do with a multimeter if you know how to use one. If you're unlucky you may have blown the tip transistor on your main driver pcb instead

Finally but some colored LEDs in. Love the look!

Brian

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Did you colour coordinate with the matching inserts throughout the playfield?

No, just did those 4 for now, but that sounds like an awesome idea!

Brian

yep, thats what it was. Blown..I found an old thread on here talking about how there was a bad batch of theses boards that went out with this transistor on them. $3 part is on its way.

$3 part and $12 shipping. It's the shipping that will cost you.

That's just wrong.

However, I also read that one person called Stern and Stern sent out another board and a return label for their old one. I just figured I’d fix it myself and save myself the hassle.

I just read somewhere that Stern wont semd out anymore parts now. You have to go thru your distributor and they will send the part there and then the distributor will send it to you. So dumb

Both are SAM boardsets. Don't think there is any difference.

Dumb is having a distributor that doesn't do anything....

Well if you want to wait two weeks on your parts instead of two days then thats ok i guess. I would rather my game only be down two days personally though.

Hi all,

Curious to know if anyone has some ideas on this.

Thanks.

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no idea, but mine is the same

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If it's the shaker pcb, I replaced the transistor twice and it blew both times. Only once I swapped it for a new pcb the problem has gone. So maybe contact stern

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With the zoomed in photo, I can see that is L18, AKA: LED18. The power driver board schematic shows L18 is the CPU reset signal from the DS1232 CPU Monitor chip. (It resets the CPU if the power dips or if it crashes, holds the CPU during power on, etc.) During normal operation, that LED should always be on.

https://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS1232.pdf

Thanks Neal_W. I am still learning to read schematics; appreciate the lesson.

My topper is coming along slowly, testing lighting atm. I have 6v leds coming to complete it, just unsure whether to link it to gi or something else. Gotta work out the best colour to choose.
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