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(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 17,752 posts
  • 997 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by ccbiggsoo7
  • Topic is favorited by 367 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 17752 posts in this topic. You are on page 332 of 356.
#16551 1 year ago
Quoted from BigalzPinz:

Hi All !! Just finished installing the Pin Woofer Super Kit System In my Metallica pro and it is unbelievable ! Honestly there is nothing that compares to this system as far as clarity of sound and Bass. Iv'e tried other systems and Pin Woofer is the way to go. For a music Pin like Metallica thats suppose to be played loud... thats exactly what the Pin Woofer Super Kit has to offer ! Dan is always available and willing to answer any questions you may have.... Pin Woofer Rocks !![quoted image]

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#16552 1 year ago

Before & after, thoughts? Go

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#16553 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Before & after, thoughts? Go[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great! Ill be going with chrome plating in the future myself in the future..Cause metal!!

#16554 1 year ago

Love it! Mine's purple too!

#16555 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Before & after, thoughts? Go[quoted image][quoted image]

I like the shape of the side rails better than the rounded ones. Very nice. Who sells them?

#16556 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Blades could be too far apart. It should be pretty obvious if switch contacts are touching when you press the target. Seriously doubt this switch is "bad". It either needs adjusting or maybe clean the contacts.

So indeed it turned out to be the contacts. Once I had the switch out I was able to clean the contacts with some super fine sandpaper (wiping alone didn't really do the trick), and now all seems good. Thanks for the advice.

#16557 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Before & after, thoughts? Go[quoted image][quoted image]

Aweee siiick!

#16558 1 year ago
Quoted from Bacondaddy:

So indeed it turned out to be the contacts. Once I had the switch out I was able to clean the contacts with some super fine sandpaper (wiping alone didn't really do the trick), and now all seems good. Thanks for the advice.

Glad you got it figured out.

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#16559 1 year ago

New sparky coming. Cant wait

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#16560 1 year ago

Curious if someone who has installed the pinbits protectors could offer some advice. First of all, I think my sparky could be "too far forward" if that is such a thing. The sparky protector really had to be pushed against his legs to install it, no gap whatsoever, and it fits up just like factory (factory protector tight too).

Also, any advice on hardware for the kit? I thought with a kit specific to the game I would get extended hardware needed to install the kit, but I digress.

Thanks

#16561 1 year ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

Curious if someone who has installed the pinbits protectors could offer some advice. First of all, I think my sparky could be "too far forward" if that is such a thing. The sparky protector really had to be pushed against his legs to install it, no gap whatsoever, and it fits up just like factory (factory protector tight too).
Also, any advice on hardware for the kit? I thought with a kit specific to the game I would get extended hardware needed to install the kit, but I digress.
Thanks

At a loss in what your saying. I installed pinbits protector using my existing hardware. You may have an issue with sparky placement? Photos may help us give advice.

#16562 1 year ago
Quoted from embryon:

At a loss in what your saying. I installed pinbits protector using my existing hardware. You may have an issue with sparky placement? Photos may help us give advice.

Basically the sparky protector hits his legs just before the screw holes lineup. Regarding hardware the extended posts that the lights screw to wont attach (not enough threads) on the existing hardware.

#16563 1 year ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

Basically the sparky protector hits his legs just before the screw holes lineup. Regarding hardware the extended posts that the lights screw to wont attach (not enough threads) on the existing hardware.

Can you try to elongate the a holes a little or does it miss by a long shot?

#16564 1 year ago
Quoted from embryon:

Can you try to elongate the a holes a little or does it miss by a long shot?

Im going to give it a shot. I certainly appreciate your replies.

#16565 1 year ago
Quoted from Leachdude:

Yes, I just seen those yesterday and thought they may be a better option. Anyone campare the two yet?

Yes, I have the Stern LCD frame and I collaborated with Pinsiders over 6 months to bring my frame to market in January. Here's a rundown of what my frame (Lit Frames) offers vs the Stern models:

- Black aluminum frame
- Remote control for:
- White LED + RGB lighting
- Brightness control
- On/off
- 6’ cord off the frame so you can hide cord behind a wall without connections in the wall
- Black plexi back panel to block light shining out the back
- D Rings for 1 screw wall mounting (Stern includes 4 screws and the frame mounts permanently to the wall)
- Free shipping
- Tax included
- 30 day warranty
- Weekend customer support

Use code "getlit" for $10 off a frame at litframes.com (Stern DMD model if you want to frame Metallica translites)

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#16566 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Before & after, thoughts? Go

Pinball Refinery purple on mine as well, with green metallic flip buttons.
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#16567 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

The hammer is one of the coolest features of the game imo. It doesn't block my view of anything. I think that's just something people use to help rationalize picking up a pro.

I don’t think it’s rationalizing anything. MET is one of the few games where the pro is enough fun on its own.

-2
#16568 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

I don’t think it’s rationalizing anything. MET is one of the few games where the pro is enough fun on its own.

Proof that even hotshot attorneys are sometimes dead wrong!

#16569 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

I don’t think it’s rationalizing anything. MET is one of the few games where the pro is enough fun on its own.

Agree and I own a premium. I just like the additional toys etc but pro game play is top notch too

#16570 1 year ago

Having any Metallica is better than having no Metallica.

#16571 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Pinball Refinery purple on mine as well, with green metallic flip buttons.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice, and wicked nice stool!

#16572 1 year ago

Does my Sparky magnet look mushroomed bad? I tried removing the magnet core but the nut will not budge. I then tried removing the whole magnet assembly but it will not budge either. I understand the nut can be very tight but the whole assembly? I'm afraid to get too aggressive and damage playfield. Any advice would be appreciated.

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#16573 1 year ago

I would definitely replace the core. I've also seen people grind down the mushroomed part and then re-polish it. You'll want to make sure you bring it up through the play field.

I'd use an impact to get it off if it was me.

#16574 1 year ago

Not sure but this nut/core may be loktited on. So all you need is to heat it a little to break the seal. Then it should release easily

#16575 1 year ago

I got a PM or two about the metallic flipper buttons on my game. If anybody wants them you can get them here:

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/cabinet-parts/flipper-buttons/?p=2

#16576 1 year ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

I would definitely replace the core. I've also seen people grind down the mushroomed part and then re-polish it. You'll want to make sure you bring it up through the play field.
I'd use an impact to get it off if it was me.

Quoted from embryon:

Not sure but this nut/core may be loktited on. So all you need is to heat it a little to break the seal. Then it should release easily

I'll give heat a try. Hopefully I can get the core out. Everything just seems extremely tight.

#16577 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I'll give heat a try. Hopefully I can get the core out. Everything just seems extremely tight.

The recommendation I was given was (along the same lines) to just activate the magnet a bunch of times to heat it up, and then undo the nut. It worked for me, and then I just pulled it up and off of the playfield.

#16578 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Everything just seems extremely tight.

That's what SHE said

#16579 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I understand the nut can be very tight but the whole assembly?

It is mushroomed at the top, so loosening the assembly does not help, since it will not pull down through without damaging the playfield. You need a large wrench and screw driver for that job. (to hold the center while turning the nut) Heating the nut makes sense.

#16580 1 year ago

Do not use an impact driver. Good chance the nut and magnet pole will break free together and do serious damage as they get dragged down through the playfield. You want the pole to go out the top side and not move downward in the slightest amount.

I have a huge wrench and huge screwdriver for this job. Heating can also help loosen the locktite.

#16581 1 year ago

So I need to heat my nut while being careful not to jerk my shaft? Got it!

#16582 1 year ago

Got the core out of the Sparky magnet this weekend. It wasn't as mushroomed as I thought but still replaced it. I pulsed the magnet many times before trying to loosen the nut. It didn't feel like that was heating it up at all but the nut did break free with a little force.

#16583 1 year ago
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#16584 1 year ago

Good job! Something everyone should do when they pick up a game used. I'm due to remove mine and file it down a little.

#16585 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Got the core out of the Sparky magnet this weekend. It wasn't as mushroomed as I thought but still replaced it. I pulsed the magnet many times before trying to loosen the nut. It didn't feel like that was heating it up at all but the nut did break free with a little force.

What is the part #, or where did you order from?

#16587 1 year ago

I wish there was a how to video of someone changing one of these out. Whats the best way to heat it up, a hair dryer or what?

#16588 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

I wish there was a how to video of someone changing one of these out. Whats the best way to heat it up, a hair dryer or what?

I had to remove some small sex bolts, on my gun holster, that I used loctite on. I used a soldering iron to break the bond. I just held it on the sex bolts, for less than a minute and it broke the loctite bond.
Hopefully someone will chime in as to whether or not,this is a good idea to use on a pinball magnet.

#16589 1 year ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

I had to remove some small sex bolts, on my gun holster, that I used loctite on. I used a soldering iron to break the bond. I just held it on the sex bolts, for less than a minute and it broke the loctite bond.
Hopefully someone will chime in as to whether or not,this is a good idea to use on a pinball magnet.

Off to google sex bolts and gun holsters!

Edit: Holy smokes, they're a thing! Haha, I thought you meant hex bolts for sure!

#16590 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Whats the best way to heat it up, a hair dryer or what?

I put a hairdryer on high for about 15 seconds and then the nut came off easily.

#16591 1 year ago
Quoted from roar:

Off to google sex bolts and gun holsters!
Edit: Holy smokes, they're a thing! Haha, I thought you meant hex bolts for sure!

Also called Chicago screws, but sex bolts is more fun to say. Also to see peoples faces when you call them that

#16592 1 year ago

Yes a hair dryer is better than a torch...

#16593 1 year ago

I'm hoping to join the club sometime this year. But first I have to sell my house,and then find a new one to live in.
I'd like to pick up a Metallica Premium/LE Huo pin locally. I have a ton of questions,so I guess I should start at page one in this thread.
In the meantime, I'll be popping in and out with a couple of questions anyway
P.S
I wouldn't be against a NIB,but I have a feeling, they're tough to find now.

#16594 1 year ago

A 1/2" ratchet and the correct size socket loosens that jam nut every time, never had to heat any of the 3 games up that we have.

#16595 1 year ago
Quoted from ktm450:

Been awhile but I purchased this rising cross kit off RobF and have finally finished making all the missing pieces. I started by machining up the cam that pushes the switches.
I then machined up the pin with the circlip groove for the sliding piece out of stainless steel, I also made the angle slides with the intention of welding to the existing pro cross assembly. After getting all the pieces together I found out the pro assembly is just plated steel. So I figured I would just make a whole new slide assembly from Stainless steel. I used stainless angle sections which I TIG welded down the middle as I would not have the room to fold back on itself as the originals are made in a press.
Then a connecting arm and all finished.
Just need to find out from Mike the best way to connect to the Total Lightshow and it will be good to go!

Finally got the rising cross mod working on my Pro!
Huge shout out to Rick (PoMC) for some detailed photos of the wiring. Helped me out a lot. Thanks very much mate.
I printed a small master of puppets image from the LE cabinet art to go behind and stop the annoying blinding flashers.

#16596 1 year ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

I'm hoping to join the club sometime this year. But first I have to sell my house,and then find a new one to live in.
I'd like to pick up a Metallica Premium/LE Huo pin locally. I have a ton of questions,so I guess I should start at page one in this thread.
In the meantime, I'll be popping in and out with a couple of questions anyway
P.S
I wouldn't be against a NIB,but I have a feeling, they're tough to find now.

you can find pro versions NIB, dont know about premium. The pro is SOOOO good though. zero regrets here.

#16597 1 year ago
Quoted from ktm450:

Finally got the rising cross mod working on my Pro!
Huge shout out to Rick (PoMC) for some detailed photos of the wiring. Helped me out a lot. Thanks very much mate.
I printed a small master of puppets image from the LE cabinet art to go behind and stop the annoying blinding flashers.

Well done mate looks factory

#16598 1 year ago
Quoted from embryon:

Well done mate looks factory

Thanks very much for your help too mate! Very happy with how it came out.

#16599 1 year ago
Quoted from ktm450:

Finally got the rising cross mod working on my Pro!
Huge shout out to Rick (PoMC) for some detailed photos of the wiring. Helped me out a lot. Thanks very much mate.
I printed a small master of puppets image from the LE cabinet art to go behind and stop the annoying blinding flashers.

Looks good, I see the left orbit spinner that you added wasn't enough. I added spinner too but the cross you added is the ticket. What do you have you spinner tried into. Mines hooked to the upper top switch next to up post.

#16600 1 year ago

Anyone have instructions on hooking up the pro spinners? I know I have to adapt one plastic but I want to make sure I hook them up correctly.

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