Hey guys!! Question, what's are the go to subwoofers for these things nowadays? I'm finally looking to install one but don't know what to go with. I do have an old non powered 12" sub that works but I'd have no idea how to hook it up to a pin, along with an external amp and it sounds like a waste of time and effort honestly.

Same here lol. I had a computer wiz buddy do it for me instead

I'm quite certain, '74 Plays' and Total Free Plays' are totally different

Save yourself $1000 and buy a used one. Spend that extra $1k on mods

Pinnovators sub kit + Polk psw10
It's what I'm using and I've heard the same here from MANY other owners. Best bang for your buck.
Edit: also dead simple to install.

The go to sub most use is a 10” Polk powered subwoofer. Cost is around $100. The difference with adding a sub to the machine is well worth the price.

Go buy yourself a Polk PSW10. They are $130 on amazon right now, but they regularly dip to $100 or less (just depends on how long you are willing to wait, $130 is still a great price). Then, you will need to attach a speaker wire to your cabinet speaker. You can either solder the connections, or if you want something less permanent, just use a set of aligator clip jumpers and connect them between the wire and the speaker. After that, run the speaker wire out and to the PSW10. You will be able to hook up 2 different pins to the sub, one on the left channel, one on the right. Crank it up and enjoy the sweet sound. It takes all of like 5 minutes including unpacking the sub. So easy a caveman could do it.

+1 on Polk PSW10 powered sub and Pinnovators sub kit for easy plug and play. There are cheaper ways to get it done but not worth the hassles imo. Don't think every pin needs a subwoofer but definitely a great addition to MET.

If you buddy is passing though Michigan any time soon have him stop by and help me out. Beers are on me.

Officially part of the club today!!!

Met prem monsters , just got her inside.

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Big thanks for the advice on the subwoofer guys!! Much apreciated!!!

He's in New Jersey. What I did was sent him a thumb drive and he put the songs I wanted on it. He then sent it back and I uploaded them to the machine.

Do you still have your thumb drive? I could compensate you to borrow it and send it back to you.

You sure do have a great collection going on there.

No my wife wiped it clean to use it and has it Lord knows where. Sorry

Are there specific songs you want/don't want? If you're not picky, I have song changes I can share with you on Dropbox.

You should have copied it to your computer first.

So I just had a chance to setup the new pin but ran across a strange problem. I have read where the snake jaw is too high but I think mine is mounted too low!

This is the position at game start. I can still make balls into the mouth in this position and the jaw never blocks balls. It acts strange when balls go in I assume because it is not expecting a ball in the scoop yet.

If you lower the jaw with washers then how do you raise it higher?

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Thanks, appreciate that! Its taken awhile to get the pins on my wantlist with plenty of breaks from the hobby throughout the years but I keep on coming back !

I"ve been using the Pinovators sub kit but using a Monoprice 8" sub. Not quite getting what I want out of it so, I just ordered a Polk 10" like suggested above. I also am going to change the front speakers to a little bit better quality. Thanks for the tip

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-amplified-subwoofer-kits-by-pinwoofer

Think I solved the problem. Found this screw had the locking nut way loose and the bolt itself was unscrewed pretty far out. With some trial and error i turned the screw until the jaw can now lock open and closed. Then tightened down the locking nut. So it wasn't mounted too low, it was just never able to close its jaw and it essentially always stayed open (trying to close but unable to because of bad screw adjustment)

Should have looked at that earlier.... don't mind me i'm the new guy whose just happy to be here

Here's a pic after I adjusted the screw and before I tightened down the lock nut in case it helps anyone else out.

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The position at game start on my game is mouth open. The jaw never locks balls unless a multiball is going and you hit all 4 pick targets. That opens the snake mouth for add-a-ball and 20 second double scoring while the ball stays in the mouth. After the 20 seconds, the ball is spit back out.

There is a snake mouth diagnostic in the menu for testing switches and mouth position. Here are pictures of mine open and closed. I added washers to shim the snake mechanism lower. Somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8.

Rob

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Thanks for the pics! It helps, I think mine is good now but cant play tonight as Ill wake up the house grrrr...

On 1.7 code (what my game shipped with) the mouth starts closed on game startup. Hit it once and then opens. Initially before the fix, in snake test mode, the mouth just kind of jittered when activating the coil, never locking closed. I didnt know how it was supposed to act earlier but now I think I do. In gameplay it did weird jittery stuff when balls went in the scoop.

I upgraded to 1.8 and after screw adjustments now the game starts with an open snake mouth. I need some time on the game to get more familiar with it for sure.

Initially the screw was extremely loose and the locking nut was far away from the bracket causing the probs. Should have taken a pic but after spotting it, it looked way off, factory forgot to tighten nut and adjust screw.

Now mine looks alot like yours (actually not as low) Ill test in gameplay if I need to do the washer trick or not and lower mine like yours., cant wait to actually play it tomorrow! Thanks for the pics they helped confirm what its supposed to look like closed and open.

Anybody change up the songs for the newer code that would be willing to share

Scroll 8 posts up.

Has anyone changed out the front speakers in their game? Stock speakers are 8 ohm and I bought 4 ohm speakers thinking I could change the ohm setting like on the spike games. Could I possibly over load the amp? Or does it auto adjust? Anyone have any knowledge about this?
Thanks for any help

I think I found my answer

Thank you, awesome song changes!!

You will like the Polk 10.

Was there ever a permanent fix for a weak coffin/hammer magnet?
Seems like the only way it will hold onto balls is if a ball ricochets into it. A direct shot or fast ball rolling over the magnet will keep on going.

Running latest code , 1.8.
It's a late model prem. (monsters)
2018 model

So I just upgraded to V 1.8 and now my flippers, particularly the right one, are definitely weaker. Is that a thing? Any advice??

And why is no one talking about adding Last Caress/Green Hell???

Ive been 1.8 for awhile. No issues with mine.

No problems with 1.8 here. Either install 1.7 and see how the flippers are, or reinstall 1.8.

Inspect the right flipper mech and confirm it is moving free, and none of the hardware is coming loose, etc.

Anyone have issues with rear post divertor? On my game sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. Last time it was working I went into test mode and made it go up about three times then it stopped working. When it is not working during game play I tried test mode and doesn’t work. If it was a bad transitor wouldn’t it not work all the time?

The same thing happened to mine. It eventually stopped working completely. Turns out, the coil wire was disconnected. I had to solder it in place. If that’s the problem it will be easy to see.

yep, those fine coil wires can break due to all of the vibration. I had that happen on my RFM for an up-down post and could see it because it broke off in the eyelet that the wire passed through. what made it even harder to track down was that it worked some of the time (when it was making contact with the eyelet

Just gonna sell this stuff as a lot in an ad, thanks.

Interested in the 3d snake mod, pm sent.

Woops forgot about the 3D one, sorry mine is the sticker. Edited that bit in the post.

Sounds like a loose connection or cold solder. Try pulling on the coil wires and see if any are loose. I had similar problem on different game where wire was loose but still looked like it was soldered in place.

So I was playing my MET Pro last night and got a little too aggressive with nudging that the speaker panel fell down on to the glass along with the translite , Luckily the glass didn't break and no damage at all! I guess the pinball gods were looking down on me, could have been disastrous!

Have since been a lot more gentle with my baby

That shouldn't come out no matter how hard you bump it. Was it locked?

finnflash If you mean the Translite yes it was locked, that was the first thing I checked, when I put the speaker panel back in I was pulling it back and forward to see if I could replicate it but couldn't. There is some leeway from left to right on the speaker panel maybe 1/4" but it sure looks like it's locked in on the tabs pretty good. I'm at a total loss as to how/why it happened but thankful there was no damage.

Thanks guys. Ill check it out . Maybe a loose wire is causing intermittent problems. Can’t hurt to resolder I suppose. Last time I checked coil both wires were connected were connected and coil would not fire.

Sounds like you did not have the speaker panel put in correctly and it was sticking out. It should never pop up with any movement of the pin since it has to be lifted up and out.

Well this happened..

2 soft shots to get the super in grave muktiball. They stayed there during ball search and game eventually ended ball and served up the 4th/last ball in the shooter lane.

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That one happened to me once!

Is this a simple bulb replacement? Odd that both ends of the bulb are still lighting up.
Forgive my ignorance, but I purchase a replacement at Home Depot, for example?
Thanks!

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