I bought a Mantis protector for the Mystery scoop, thinking I would benefit from its "lipless" design. Thereafter, the eject was whacky. I was confused at first. Then I realized the ball was actually striking the protector on it's way out. I tried to finesse its position, but the steel was just thick enough that no matter what I did in terms of position the ball still collided with the protector. So, I took it out and put a nice thin Cliffy in there. Problem solved. I also put the two Cliffy protectors in the shooter lane and they were fine.

I installed the mylar magnet-surrounds from Pinball Life and they went down well (no bubbling) and looked fine. If you have a Premium, you may want a true Cliffy on your Casket magnet surround, rather than simple mylar.

I replaced my stock balls with Ball Baron's Super Ninjas. They are my favorite balls - mostly for their polish.

I also installed a set of Pinbits plastics protectors. I recommend them. They offer clear or fluorescent green.

My opinion is "none". I don't think it's necessary if the magnet height is properly adjusted and this is a home machine that is properly cared for (waxed and balls polished and replaced as needed). If you insist on putting something down, go with mylar.

I have Cliffys on the mystery hole, works very well. Can’t speak to if it is better than another as it’s all I’ve used.

I order the carbon balls from the ball baron. They work well. Make sure they are the carbon as the other balls will magnetize.

Magnets have carbon fiber protectors. I think they look and work great. If I was to do it again I wouldn’t change a thing.

1. Mylar. Doesn’t affect gameplay and protects great.
2. Anything that isn’t chrome or super shiny.
3. Mylar

Marco "mantis style" mystery protector, 2500 plays, looks mint.
I put mylar round sparky magnet and shooter lane, just cut from a sheet of mylar, wax down first, I just replaced the shooter mylar and it was real easy to pull up .
I use regular Marco balls, I tumble and check them often.

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I recommend that if you are going to use mylar that you use the removable kind. It works fantastic and it peels up super easy if you ever want to remove it.

I have both a cliffy and mantis in my mystery hole to bullet proof it. the cliffy protects the top and top edges, while the mantis protects the side walls

ball baron sells what are probably the most highly polished balls available (however, their ninja chrome balls will magnetize after about 50 or so games and need to be replaced. they also sell a carbon core ball that looks nice and works good in games with magnets

I put a mylar ones around both the sparky and hammer magnets. I'm not a fan of either the metal or carbon fiber protectors because they can lift and cause chipping to the clear coat

I have a 2018 MET Pro with the Total Light Show and spinners. When I first got it home, everything worked but every now and then it would shut down mid game. I updated it with the latest code from Stern. Since then the spinners don’t make noise anymore and sometimes the bottom half of the Playfield (by the flippers/slings) goes dark. They eventually turn back on when I hit the coffin or sparky or whatever makes the flashers go off. Any ideas? Is there a download for the light show/spinners?

I had pinball refinery put extra clear coat in around scoop and some other areas. Cliffy's are good if damage is already present as it covers up rather then protects. Had my premium game since 2014 and no wear anywhere. I would like to know about what size post sleeves to use in areas where the small rubbers are. Like the 2 by Sparky, regular post sleeves or what size? Also, what size sling shot rubber? I tried 2" and it snapped, 2 1/2 " and seems loose and sometimes sling wont fire cuz rubber loose. I usually order from Titan pinball. Is the kit in Titans database accurate? Also need good non magnetized pinballs, I hear carbon ones are best. I used to use the pinball life "oh so shiny" ones, but are no longer listed on site. Mezel mods has carbon ones i see. I still think Metallica is one of the best playing games today. I need to update Colordmd's firmware to go with the new Stern code 1.80. Anyone have cemetary arch with skeleton hanging from it on there game? I have the coffin with white skeleton, but since removing the sneeze guard I have nowhere to put it. Best place to get lighted flipper buttons for cheap?

I disagree with the "cliffies cover up rather than protect." They also protect when put on a new game.

Isn't the whole point of changing the plastic for the metal one was because of bounce back on left orbit shot? I have first run premium and never experienced any bounce back on that shot so I left it stock. No issues, less metal contact the better for the balls. Some have had issues with bounce back others like mine have never had this happen.

The way the TLS board connected to the game to make the spinner sounds work is blocked in the latest code.

I removed mine as well. It was a big piece of useless plastic. Only a few times where ball jumped track or hit side of cab but not enough to put it back on. I also took off the spot lights from the sling shots and used the lights to light up snake and piston target.

Received our new MET Pro this weekend. Can't thank the 320 pages of useful info enough. We have had many stern machines and this one does not disappoint. Thanks to all the people for various and valuable input found here in making this an easy choice.

Todd

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^^^^^Where you get the side blade art from? Congrats on the game.

I made my own ahead of delivery as the ones available were not to my liking.

They look great.

Thank you

Strobing getting worse. If I push the cat data cable towards the connector under the playfield it stops, but when you start playing, it comes back fairly quickly and makes it unplayable. I have a monsters led version BTW. Any ideas please

Try a little hot glue to hold the connector in place.

The going dark part might be your power board mid playfield is oxidized (if you're talking about the stock lights and not the TLS lights). Check the power connector to that mid-playfield board for browning.

Quick question about the grave marker shot, and the magnet and hoping someone else has noticed this. On my pro, my magnet/opto do seem to be working fine when I do the Grave Marker Multiball.

What I noticed with this game a long time ago, and I am pretty sure I have seen other Metallicas that I've played do this, but with a different multiball mode... say electric chair multiball for example, if during the multiball I happen to knock down all of the gravemarker drop targets, with further shots, the magnet doesn't really seem to do anything in terms of activating to soften the impact on the decorative cross grave marker at the end of the shot. It seems to me that the magnet should activate and fling the ball back at you, or at least that would make sense.

Has anyone else noticed this on their Metallica, and maybe even had the cross break from impacts over time?

Help me decide here. I am thinking about replacing the chrome molding around the back box. I am thinking either all purple, all black , or purple on the outer edges, and black in the middle. What do you all think would look best?
Also, what size slingshot rubber to use? Manual calls for 2" and everytime 2" have snapped as they are really tight fit. Titan pinball 2" have snapped twice, so trying Titans 2 1/2" ones now but are loose fitting. Wanted to know what size you guys use.

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That is the correct behavior it that's what you are asking. The magnet is only used for the cross multiball. Slinging the ball around would probably cause more pf wear and not sure I would want that. Never heard of the cross breaking and there are plenty things on a playfield that take direct hits.

We have 2-1/4" available now. Works great on MET, Tron, GB and lots of others that call for 2"

My cross has broken on the bottom from hits last night. It was a pretty clean break, I've got it gluing back together the next 24 hours and we'll see how it holds up. Such a rigid piece of plastic doesn't feel like it should break like that, thats why i was curious if the magnet should have been doing something to slow the ball as it crossed the opto. I'm about 1300 plays on my machine over two and a half years, but i've seen Metallicas with 15K+ plays that the cross has held up no problems. I'm almost thinking of strapping a small piece of grey colored foam on the bottom of the repaired cross to absorb some of that impact. Replacement cross from Marco is $44 USD, so will probably order one to have for the long run, or hang onto it until I sell the game if the repair holds up.

Purple for sure
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/so-you-changed-your-t-molding-post-pics

I like Metallica with all black t-molding, which looks nice next to the '90s pins.

Well, this was a first.

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Hat trick!!!!!!!!

I'm not a pro on the rules, but I don't believe the magnet has flung the ball around ever. I've never heard of anyone breaking the cross either. Now the drop downs are a different story.

On my premium I carefully watched every time the ball entered the cross chamber during the cross multiball and the magnet briefly activated and slightly flings the ball when it releases. I probably hit the area 6 times including a jackpot shot and the magnet activated each time.

He's talking about if you are in a different mb, like sparky, snake, or coffin, and the behavior of the magnet after all three drops are down. Not the behavior of the magnet in cross mb.

Yeah, the ball can hit the cross with some pretty good force, even in Grave Marker multiball if you hit hard and fast before the magnet can really grab it. I have now heard of a few people who have had broken crosses in my adventure to find a replacement. Must just be luck of the draw when they get broken. I have seen Sparkys with broken legs before, so the cross doesn't surprise me.

While I am able to order a replacement no problem, I have ordered some Bondic to see if it can repair the old one, and curious if it will hold up. I will save my replacement for when/IF I sell the game someday.

This arrived on my porch today. I cant decide whether to put it in the game or frame it. (Mostly because if it goes in the game, I wont bother framing the original.)
Thanks to all you guys at Stern.

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On the machine...for now

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Just joined the club today. So excited!

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Congrats! But your delivery guy didn't notice the "TRUCK THIS SIDE ONLY" on the side of the box? Luckily the game survived!

That's cool, I'd always showcase it in the game..

Probably more didn't care than didn't notice

Okay, so a weird new problem with my Metallica Pro. Started playing a game today and the GI lights all went out after about 30 seconds of gameplay. I've had the GI lights fizzle before and I changed the associated fuses and all was well. This time around, I changed the fuses and with the coin door open all of the lights are on, went into test and all of the GI and flashers work. As soon as I close the coin door all the lights go out. Any ideas?

So, I let the game sit for 10 mins. With coin door closed, turned game on, all lights came on for about 1 minute, all red LED lights on at all fuses on the board, after that 1 minute, all the GI lights go out as the left hand row of GI fuses LEDs fizzle and then turn out. Turn game off. Open coin door and turn game on, all the left hand row of GI fuses are LED lit and stay lit, meanwhile F5, 7, 8 and 10 are off (which I think is normal with coin door open, I did change these fuses out for new as well while I was changing fuses). Turn game off, then on again with coin door closed...starts normal, all LEDs on the board are lit until about a minute later when the GI fuses row fizzles, then out along with the GI lights. What am I missing? Ideas?
In addition, the last time I turned the machine on, before the GI fuses fizzled, in the 20 seconds before they did, I hear a constant wierd sound for the board, sounds like Morse code over a radio...??? Not sure if this detail helps anyone with this issue.
Thanks in advance everyone.

Maybe a loose coil wire touching the GI light string? (the coils are not energized until the door is closed) Or maybe a lamp touching a coil because something is loose?

I would look at every coil lug for something touching or a coil wire that has fallen off.

Cool. This a pro? Had I known about being able to get this particular translite I would have opted for the road case premium. Just couldn't stand the translite it came with so went with the monster premium. You have just purple tmolding in the edges of the head? I wanting to something similar, purple on edge and black in middle. Post a better pic. Do you have purple rails on cabinet?

Colordmd guys, I wanted to switch and try different settings like dots, dotsxl, etc. But when got to the screen "save & exit" not one of the 4 buttons would save my changes. How do you save?

Also, is flipper buzz normal? When I stall the ball on one if the flippers there is a noticeable buzz noise heard, basically the right flipper does it. Any fix, or normal?

Yes I have a pro. I had some issues and Stern is taking care of them. I contacted Stern on the mean time and they sent me this autographed translite. I thought that was pretty awesome. That's why its the only thing in the picture. They asked which one I'd like and I answered either a pro or a monsters. You can still buy monsters translites from Marco's now and then. I have purple t molding on mine but didnt powdercoat the rails. I did powdercoat the snake wireform green though. If you scroll through the gallery I have posted pics not that long ago. Christmas time I believe.
And yes, flipper him is normal but there is a fix in the topic index if it really bothers you.

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Pics here

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/so-you-changed-your-t-molding-post-pics#post-4906472

He probably only had a hand dolly instead of a hand truck.

He had to Dolly it on that side due to the pallet. If done the other way the machine could have possible fell over and been damaged

j_m_, can you clarify what you mean on the upper right side playfield with wider rubber, etc.. on removing the ramp and wirform ramp how you get the gate off? When I change to titans I avoided that back area and left stock rings . I been meaning to get in there. Nice choice on the peal black for captive ball.

Thanks for your response. Yeah, that's sort of how I was looking at it as well. It's only when the coils are energized and when that coin door button is pushed in. I scoured the wires last night, looking in-depth at every wire looking for touching or crossing wires. it's funny, I've got so many fun mods on this game that some of the wires get a little confusing, I hope you can understand, haha, but I think that has to be the deal...I will look again today in depth. I certainly didn't see anything last night.. I sure hope I find the culprit. If you or anyone else has any other ideas on this issue as I continue to evaluate this problem, please let me know. Thanks again for your response.
Chip

Looking to buy a stock Sparky if anyone has one they want to part with.