Nothing. Just get a blank screen?

You sure it does not work? Try bending out the wires to the outside of the bulb for better contact. I have to do this to all the led bulbs I install in games because if not half of them will not work.

Some pictures show the old snake fangs which are not stock. They might have been on the first run machines, but have not been for a long time.

Yep, I've had to do that for many other LEDs also, but there was no hope for this particular one. I could put a new bulb in the socket and it would pass the flasher test from the diag menu but the original bulb seems to be toast (tried reversing it in the socket, bending the wires, etc). The new bulb that works fine is too "fat" to fit into the hollow body of the cross, though. I have an email in to Stern parts to see if the part number listed in the manual will actually work before I order some (from pictures on the Marco site, it appears to also be too fat to fit into the hole).

Comet seems to have a 13v 906-base flex flasher that I am tempted to take a chance on. It's a lot cheaper than the one listed on the Marco site...

fangs were stock on the initial run of all metallica machines. due to the fact that the fangs were breaking off due to ball strikes, stern starting shipping machines where the fangs were dremeled off and then changed the mold for the snake to not include the fangs at all.

I was an original LE owner, and my fangs were dremeled off, so I guess they started doing this after the first bunch of pro's went out.

FYI: HUO MET PROmium For Sale in Minneapolis:

minneapolis.craigslist.org link

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/74979

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I know there were a few people in this thread with the same issue, but did anyone with the pingraffix light up gamebladez that were triggering sparky figure out a fix? Joe sent me a new box, then stopped responding to my emails for the last two weeks. I have zero other mods.

I went through 3 units. In the end I sent all but the one ser of blades back to Joe and he refunded my money. I have them installed as normal blades but it erks me constantly that they dont function.

He never refunded the shipping costs but he was a good guy about the whole thing. I just order normal blades now

I don't know if he saw this or what, but he finally emailed back saying to send them back. Sucks as I really think they look awesome, but having them trigger sparky all the time sucks. Guess that's better than nothing.

Looking to join the Metallica Pro club, but need to sell my HUO Stern POTC first. If anybody knows of a MET available in the greater Atlanta area (+- 3 hours drive) I'd appreciate it.

Stern is sending me a new playfield because mine has some ghosting. I wish I still had the unit. It would have been interesting to see if it also has issues. Not interested enough to go through that whole debacle again but I'm definitely curious. Joe said its been maybe half a dozen machines tops that have had the issue.

What's the general concensus here regarding whether or not the snake protector and the "sneeze guard" over the right wire ramp are necessary?

I've replaced the snake protector cliffy-like thing a few times and it always warps a little bit in the middle after just a few games, and becomes an obstacle to making the snake shot smoothly. In a HUO environment like I have, I am thinking the snake protector might not be necessary and removing it would make the game flow better.

I had no real issue with the plastic airball protector over the ramp until I put Pinstadiums into the game. Now it just seems to be a giant reflector for the lights on that side. I'm not sure I've ever had a case where having that thing there would have stopped an airball, anyway...

Thankful as always for any advice!

It stops airballs for me -- if I hit the shot really fast, it tries to pop out. This is especially true after cleaning/waxing the playfield. Even with the protector there, there's been a few times that the ball has popped out - once it got stuck on the airball protector, which I found ironic.

I've noticed that the protector rejects the snake shot sometimes as well and it's rather frustrating, so curious to hear what others say about that.

A guy used to make a wire replacement (like the one for the lower left on lotr). Since ya can't get them anymore, I made one and it has worked well.

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I pulled mine off and have had maybe 4 balls pop out of the track in the 4 years ive owned Met.. Id take it off and test. I have no intention of putting it back on.

I took mine off several months ago, and I’ve had the ball pop off once with a crazy fast shot up the ramp.... IIRC, it ended up in the shooter lane. So no big deal.
Snake protector? That seems like a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist....

The snake protector is standard on every Met I've ever seen.

But is it really needed? That is his question. If it was interfering with operation, I’d just remove it.

It’s coming off the next time I have the playfield glass off!

Thanks for all the input guys...

someone made a black wireform to replace the "sneeze guard" but I'm not sure if they are still providing them.

with regards to the "cliffy" style metal protector in front of the snake mouth, I think it's there to prevent any chipping of the playfield in case your snake mouth isn't set properly. I have noticed that if you tighten down the nuts a bit too tight as well as unevenly, it will cause that thin piece of metal to buckle as you've described. I've only had to change mine once and that was because I did over tighten it and cause it to bend (when I swapped out the newton block for a captured ball set-up on my premium

Recently my first drop target started dropping on its own when starting a game. I replaced that specific drop target over a year ago (it broke) and it worked fine until recently. Am I missing something?

Joined!

Always knew I'd get a MET at some point and today was the day.

Question about the ride the lightning mod: Mine seems to be missing the lightning decals on the top parts of the plastics, it only has the decals along the sides... Anybody know what's up with that?

Enjoy it Maken... LOTR is sitting in the garage waiting for someone to get home from work to help me get it into the basement! The Ride The Lightning was installed when I got it... maybe when it was first released the decals were only on one side of them? Or whoever installed them put them on the wrong side? I never noticed.

I'm free

That's how it comes normally. The decals on top are available for an extra fee.

Right on. Thanks.

Thanks Just got it down the stairs, my muscle had to work late! If you need a LOTR fix there is now a really nice one closer, welcome any time.

Well, it's "official", I am in the club!!!! My Pro LED came yesterday and finally got done with the installing the initial mods\protection:

-Mantis Scoop Protector
-Pinbits Clear Plastic Protectors (including Sparky)
-Mezel Mods (Snake Fangs)
-Snake Tongue Decal (thank you to who sent this, not sure if they want a callout)
-Mylar around both magnets (Marco's Iron Man pre-cut ones)
-Shooter Kickout Protector
-Shaker Motor (pinballlife, bit shoutout to Terry for his help)
-ColorDMD (BIG shoutout to Randy for his quick replies and help to some questions I had during install)

That covers the main ones but there is one that remains that I need the club's help with....Speaker Upgrade.

I've read and read and read all the posts and suggestions that I could find and below is a summary of the options I came across:

1. Adding 2 Boss eq-amps and upgrade all the speakers with any decent set for the backbox and cabinet.
2. Adding a sub amp (Dayton 70W), new sub-woofer and new backbox speakers.
3. Upgrading the backbox speakers and then get the famous Polk Powered External Sub and either leave the cabinet speaker hooked up or not use it at all.
4. Leave everything stock and just add the Polk Powered External Sub and either leave the cabinet speaker hooked up or not use it at all.
5. Get either a PP or FF speaker kit and nothing else.

So there are the options and I have no clue which one to go with. I am by no means an audiophile but I do like great sound, not necessarily LOUD but if I'm in the mood and want to crank it up, I want it to be clear and not distorted. I mean the stock speakers are ok and loud and somewhat clear but there just isn't that oomph or feeling. I know I'm not going to get rock concert sound and my ears can't take that anyway but hoping someone was in my same situation and would love to see what they did as well as everyone's input on what they did and tried and if they compared different solutions, etc.

I think the only option above that will be difficult would the be #1 as those Boss eq-amps aren't available anymore and would have to be found on eBay or someplace else.

I don't necessarily have a preference, such as internal vs. external and just want the best sounding experience. No real budget but I'd like to stay under $150ish. I don’t mind crimping, soldering, etc. but not sure exactly how to rewire the backbox speakers, if I need to disconnect the capacitor, etc.

Oh and I have my Music set to Default at 1 and my Music Attenuation at -18 and the Speech at -10.

Thanks so much everyone for the help and so glad to be officially in the club.

Ed

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Pinnovators sub kit and a poll psw10. Best bang for your buck. Inexpensive and sounds great.

Remember the music is in mono anyway. No need to overkill it

Thanks for the help and info.

Did you replace your back box speakers?

Just seen so many posts that upgrading these really helps a lot.

Did you just get the sub kit or did you also get the headphones option/board from Pinnovators?

Forgot to ask, for those that have the Polk external sub and share one between two pins, where do you place it?

Right between them or could you put it up higher between them or does it have to be on the ground?

Thanks again.

Factory speaker. Pinnovators sub kit(only) with Polk.
I dont share between games. That's only good if you want to play one at a time. Each game get it's own sub underneath. (They go on sale for $100)

The factory speakers are terrible. I always put in the upgraded speakers in the cabinet and backbox even if I'm connecting an external sub. Either way, yes on the backbox speakers. I get the Flipper Fidelity speakers.

I installed Invisiglass on my MOPLE yesterday. Just amazing, what a difference. Noticeably less reflection than the Stern HD glass on Iron Maiden LE next to it. Can barely tell there’s glass in the game, highly recommend this stuff.

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Where along the left flipper is the mystery scoop supposed to be aimed? Middle, like the snake? Or more towards the tip?

Hardest shot in the game imo. More towards the tip.

I assume he means the kickout should hit the flipper.

Hahaha. His question now makes more sense.

Every game is different. Most times it’s closer to the tip of the flipper when held up. At rest around mid flipper.

Your best bet is to start with the external sub (cheapest option and a must have for this game) then if that doesn't quite do it for you replace the cabinet speakers.

Greetings again,

For those of you that swapped your diverter post to metal, is the top of the metal post smaller in diameter than the plastic one?

I purchased the armature assembly below that was linked\recommended on this thread but when installed it, it just didn’t look right and worried me that I either ordered the wrong part or was sent the wrong part unless this IS how it is supposed to work. The best way I can describe it is think of the size of a quarter as the hole, the metal diverter post is the size of a dime, so there is a lot of extra empty space around the metal post in the hole. Is this ok as I would think the hole would get chewed up and the ball would skip\jump when it was down.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-bell-armature-plunger-assembly-a-17986.html

I hope all that makes sense. I was hoping my plastic diverter would work as intended but if I don’t baby the plunge, it bounces back and comes down the right orbit every time and the same goes for when I shoot the right orbit, it hardly ever stops and drops into the pop bumpers.

Also, what are the rules specific to when this diverter goes up or stays down? What I mean is sometimes when I hit the orbit shots (left or right), the post goes up and the ball always bounces back, other times it stays down and the shot goes all the way around. I can’t quite understand what causes the post to go up vs. stay down when shooting the orbits. I get how it works on the initial plunge.

Thanks again for any and all help.

Ed

Thanks for the help\advice, this seems to be the choice that everyone unanimously recommends. Seems like a split on using the pinnovators pinsub board.

I’ve see quite a few posts where people say just getting an external sub didn’t help much, while a lot of other posts say it definitely makes it a lot better.

Yup, comes down to personal preference. That's pinball.

It makes a world of difference. I can't recall seeing anybody say it doesn't?

Very true, I noticed today that the tilt bob didn’t hit all the areas of the metal ring due to the shaker clear cover so I had to move the entire assembly back a little so it would. Very strange that Stern would design it this way but perhaps someone didn’t install the tilt bob in the correct place.

Yeah, out of the several speaker upgrade threads I’ve read through there were several people that said just adding an external Polk sub isn’t enough or that Metallica doesn’t have enough bass to work well with just adding a Polk, hence the reason I just can’t decide.

I’m really leaning towards a FF Kit, either the Meaty Bass one or just the Flippin Fantastic one, as I’m not looking to have it extremely loud but just want a better overall sound with the ability to hear a little more bass and thumps for certain kick drum parts and if possible, would like to have everything internal unless the external sub is night and day compared to the internal solutions.

Thanks again everyone for the help\advice.

Adding an external polk psw10 sub is more than enough. It's what I did and it makes an amazing difference. Set both dials on the back to somewhere around 1 or 2 o'clock.

Rob

A external Polk PSW10 will make any pinball machine sound awesome.