i had this type of issue using rev A pcb for the shaker. changed to rev B and no issues but my problem started immediately upon installing the shaker. So if you've had it installed for a good while then the problem is something else

I think its end of the line but the scene with sparky in a car is wrong. I did a thorough check the week of the update and spotted 3 things tops. I'm not a good enough player to even see them in normal gameplay. The color problems were in lesser used or newer animations.

I just checked through some old notes.
At End of the line
-the intro where it breaks down your score isnt colorized
-the instructions are colored for some but yellow for most.
-the car scene has some errors
That's all I've spotted though.
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Hi,

As a newly-converted total "Apple head" (iMac, iPad and iPhone) I'm having some difficulty with Pinball Browser -ie it won't run.

I have optimised a new track to replace "The unforgiven" (almost same length too)... could anyone drop it into the slot and change the name in V1.8 if I ping them the track across?
Be super grateful... beef vouchers if necessary!

CM

Long shot but could you balls de-magnitized? Have u changed them out recently ?

When I first got my MET, based on stuff i read in this post, I switched out the block for a standard newton ball, and that DEFINITELY has made the coffin lock magnet much harder to hit.

similar for me. I am half tempted to put the block back in and just wrap some mylar around it.

Had a couple of peculiarities happen in recent games on my Pro, more than once.

1. Multiball starting at the start of a CIU mode. It's happened twice starting For Whom The Bell Tolls and once for Fade To Black. It's not a mode multiball, but the shooter lane starts kicking until balls come into play. They're recognized as extra balls in play because the mode doesn't end when you drain balls. My brother asked Lyman in that last MET stream with Dead Flip and he said that shouldn't happen. Anyone else having this?

2. Right ramp sometimes registers at the ramp entrance. I'm really confused about this one. There's not enough force on the ball to knock any switches but sometimes it'll get maybe 1/4 of the way up the incline but still register the ramp. I don't think the ramp switch is needing adjustment since it doesn't happen any other time when playing. It's also not consistently happening but maybe 5% of the time. The ramp should register as it goes through the gate switch at the top, right? There's no opto sensor, right?

edit: I'm running the latest code.

Check all switches and optos. Sounds like trough switch errors for #1 issue. Does it happen when ball save is on? Could be game thinks ball drained and kicks out another ball. For #2 issue, try banging on the pf and ramp in the menu switch test. I've had optos work fine in testing but trigger on vibrations. Sounds like the opto is triggering when the ball hits the ramp.

Yeah i switched them out just to check lol

Crazy timing. I was just going to ask if people were still doing this. I have a Newton ball, but have never installed it. I will say I get most of my lock shots off of slow rollers anyway. Even with the block it's pretty hit and miss. Does anyone turn on the setting where the magnet energizes after the block is hit? I tried it awhile ago but that seemed to turn it on after every hit. I would prefer that setting to only kick in when the hammer is ready.

Interesting that it would only happen at the start of a CIU mode and not any other time though. It kicks out a two extra balls, so not every ball in the trough and not just one either. And it acknowledges that there are 3 balls in play. Again it's only happened 3 times out of the last 50 or so instances of starting a CIU mode.

I just had the right ramp issue again. Which switch should I be checking here? I kinda bricked the shot and it bounced between the pick targets, but registered the ramp (and the pick targets).

I just turned that setting on and gonna try it. Range is between 2000msec and 5000msec

I tried it pre-code update and remember not liking it, but I can't exactly remember why I didn't like it. Probably going to try it again when I get a chance.

That is weird. I just think it has to be a switch. Everything is triggered off of switches. Maybe there is something weird in code like a bug that is triggered by a random faulty switch. I remember my Getaway doing some strange scoring when the ramp opto was out. I would suggest checking every switch in the game

I first thought there was optos on the ramps but just checked my game. It has micro switches triggered by the gates. I would check to see if they are loose or trigger easily by banging on ramp.

Greetings programs, hope everyone is doing well.

I recently got a new to me, slightly used but mint pin and wanted to start saving for my next pin, NIB Metallica Pro, but I’ve been hearing that Stern is no longer producing new Metallica pins and that there was a final call recently for dealers/distributors to place a last order for them a little while ago and that when the new ones that are out there for sale are gone, that’s it as no more are being produced.

I wanted to see if anyone else heard this and/or if this is true as I figured someone here might know for sure.

I only have two pins but want to, at least once, get a NIB pin and Metallica is one of my favorite bands, if not the most favorite as I went to one of their concerts back when I was 17 and have liked them since I was an early teen and while there are a lot of great new pins still being made, this is the one I would want to get NIB.

I just wanted to see if this was true as my original plan was to purchase one of these NIB near the end of this year as it will really be hard for me to justify buying two pins around the same time but if it is true, I gotta get creative. I don’t have much room so 3 pins would probably be it for me at least for a long time.

Thanks for any help and advice.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10156873784434244&id=136972659243

Thanks Neal, for the life of me I tried searching but guess I didn’t use the right terms.

We’ll Plan B, time to get creative.

Thanks again for the quick confirmation.

I think I'm going to have the very last playfield off the line.
My pro playfield has 2 ghosted inserts (less than one year old HUO) I contacted Stern and they are sending me a new replacement playfield. I asked my distributor for a status update today and was told that the delay is due to Stern having no Metallica playfields left and I'll have to wait for them to make me one.
That being said. I dont think it should be too hard to find a distributor with some NIB stock still. They JUST stopped running them after all. I mean, my distributor has stock NIB Batman 66, Ghostbuster, WWF, Spiderman vault, Game of Thrones, even non vault edition Star Trek still. Just call around

A few years ago I sent my Premium playfield back when Stern had no populated Premium playfields. They stripped the parts off my old playfield and rebuilt it on a new blank. The problem with my premium playfield was that it was warped (twisted). I contacted John Borg and he signed my playfield under the apron before it was shipped back to me.

Rob

PM sent

I was told I would be getting a populated playfield and some time to swap all my mods over then my distributor will send my old playfield back to stern

Here's a maintenance alert for anyone with a Premium or LE that uses the captive ball block (instead of the captive ball) under the hammer assembly. This captive ball block is hidden out of easy view, so we really don't look at it often, but please have a look at yours (and maybe give it a shake with your hand) to see if the two (2) screws which are hidden under the bottom of it might be backing out, leading to the block becoming loose and unassembled (this was happening to my block from a recent mid 2018 build machine). According to the Stern manual, Loctite 243 (blue medium strength Loctite) was supposed to be applied to the threads of the screws prior to assembly at the factory, but as I found, and as you can see, there appears to have been no Loctite applied to the screw threads.

Tip: If you find yourself needing to remove this block, apply Loctite, and reassemble, you may want to give the block a few good sharp whacks on a solid surface to dislodge a surprising amount of chips left over from the thread cutting operations that might be hiding in the tapped three (3) tapped holes.

Keep flippin'

Jeff R.

Unassembled (resized).jpg

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Don't give up, plenty of NIB games at distributors.

Just figure I would share a few pics of my Metallica Road Case which I have had for a couple of years.
Really like the game and with the new code it is even better.

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Colordmd

They are nice but I focus more on the playfield than the DMD so I do not care that much for the DMD to justify the cost.

I highly recommend https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-newton-ball-assembly.html. Especially if you're gonna muck with the block at all.

I don't know why why used the block on the prem/le and used the newton ball on pros.

I believe they thought the block would allow the magnet on the Premium/LE to more easily capture the ball for the hammer/lock action. The magnet ball capture seems to work good on my Premium, so I'm hesitant to change to the newton ball.

I've had a newton ball since day 1 and my magnet ball catch is fine.

Ditto. I changed mine out right away because I was not wanting that block to beatup the balls. It's been great.

I was thinking, one good benefit of changing out the block for the newton ball is when James Hetfield says "Shoot the ball!", it makes sense with the newton ball, lol.

If u can justify the cost of a custom shooter rod & sparky.... u should be able to justify a color dmd! Definitely worth it on MET

Between a ColorDMD and a shaker motor I’d say those are about the only ‘mods’ that hold their value too. Anything else is becomes pretty subjective on whether it adds to the game or not and is extremely hard to get value from... arguably on a MET I’d say TotalLightShow may hold some of its value too.

A few pages back, people who swapped out the block for the ball were saying that they will probably go back to the block, as they are getting less consistent magnet grabs with it. I am rethinking my block purchase now.

And then I read this and just get confused again lol.

Just, so you know, the block is made of aluminum, which is way softer than the balls. You can look at the pic I posted and see the balls easily dent the aluminum. The block no longer has sharp corners where the ball hits it. The corners are folded over, and when I had the block out, I filed the folded over portions of the corners off. I've had my MET Premium since the beginning of November, and play it multiple times every day, and the balls are all still nice and shiny despite pounding the hell out of that block, so I'm not concerned about the block damaging the balls. It's quite the opposite. The balls beat the hell out of the block.

LOL. I really don't see any issues with ball lock. The ball doesn't land on the magnet and lock on every single time I hit the captive ball, but I really don't think it is supposed to be that consistent, is it?

Yeah i get by design it wont every time but since new code i feel its a giant pain in the ass to get the lock and makes it feel broken

They were on the game when I bought it.

Greeting programs,

Well the stars aligned for me and was able to sell some stuff and scrounge up enough funds and got my amazing wife’s blessing to get a NIB Metallica Pro. Should get it in a week or so and this will be my first and probably last NIB pinball I get.

I was planning on getting one by the end of the year but confirmed they are no longer making NIB but my amazing dealer had a few left and one of them is now going to be mine.

I already want to add a ColorDMD, the dot version, and the snake fangs, tongue decal and the upgraded mod when they get produced again.

Regarding the ColorDMD, are they two different models (one being the dots and the other being the non-dot version)? I saw two options on the ColorDMD website and assume the dot version is the more expensive one vs the LED version.

Are there any other must have mods or enhancements?

Thanks for any and all advice and hope everyone has a great night, so excited. Now all I got to do is go through this entire 313 page thread LOL.

the dot version as you are referring to it (actually the LED version) is the cheaper model of the two designs and retails for $369 plus shipping (the LCD version is $399)

I have my mystery hole protected with a cliffy, mylar around the sparky magnet, the extended sparky leg protector plastic and have the playfield protector kit installed. those are the "must haves" in my mind

The LED version: has one pattern (LED dots!), great wide angle of visibility, and super vivid. Blacks are blacks! Unless they've gotten better, the color convergence of each "dot" is not great; I see edges of red, green that stand out instead of being nicely mixed in the LED package.

The LCD version: has multiple patterns (dots, dotsXL, line scans, others). The color converge is not a problem. However, the angle of viewing is less; as you step to the side you lose some vividness. Also, the blacks are really grays.

https://www.colordmd.com/led.html
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-lcd-versus-led

Given how subjective it is, I'd try and find local samples of both before making a decision.

Thanks so much and didn’t realize the LED was the dot version as it seems like a lot of people favor the dots one vs. the non-dot.

I’ll definitely get some protectors, assuming the plastics one from Pinbits is good as that’s where I got my MMR protectors.

Thanks for the details as I’m new to the ColorDMD and didn’t realize the LCD could do any of the patterns and wasn’t just limited to the non-dots version as I prefer dots compared to the other version. Seems like trade offs with both. Guess I’ll have to keep watching some more vids and/or try to find some samples locally.

Thank you everyone for the tips, advice and suggestions.

What's our location? Maybe visit a local pinsider to see them in person?

The LED is a direct replacement. The LCD is basically a laptop display and has to be mounted an inch or so back on MET. Vireland makes a cool gasket that fills the gap and gives it a nice finished look. I think colordmd sells it now and highly recommend it. I prefer the look of the LCD and you have a handful of display options. If you are not sure which one to get, just go with LCD. LED is mostly for games like CV where the LCD will not fit.

I wouldn't overdo the mods. Easy to spend hundreds if not thousands on mods and hard to get that money back. Besides the stuff you mentioned, I suggest an external subwoofer if you can find one cheap. I also really like the following - cheap and effective:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1087-wcp/00873-cross-pattern-light-blocking-insert-metallica-pro-premium-le

I would recommend overdoing the mods
I have lots on my met and absolutely love them. Pinball is about fun, so getting all my money back is not the goal.

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True but I see pins for sale with $2000-$3000 in mods and think that could of bought you another pin. For new guys, I think it would be far better to get that 2nd or 3rd pin than going crazy on mods for just one pin.

That is very strange. I would try doing a factory reset. If that doesn't fix it you might try reloading the 1.80 code, if that's possible.

Congrats!! Don't forget to add an external subwoofer. Makes a huge difference!!