I do have to fix that flipper buzz on my left flipper. Also, I keep unplugging and replugging in the ethernet cable to stop the seizure mode that it goes into every few weeks. Anyone have a permanent fix on that? Is it more likely to be the ethernet cable or the node board?

????

MET is a SAM system and has no nodeboards. They are for Spike system. So which ethernetcable are you talking About?

The CAT5/6 cable carries the controlled GI data. Yeah it's not a "node" board like Spike, but it is a purpose-specific board.

it is a known issue that the ethernet cable and/or the solder points of the power connection on that board under the playfield to be points of failure

Not sure what you mean by seizure mode. Every once in awhile my lights start acting like they're all ghosting or flickering. I think I have it narrowed down to the header pins on the left board bottom center connector. Usually I play with that and it goes away for a while. I would have to be in front of machine to 100% tell you which one it was.

One simple (low-tech) solution that worked for me was to place a thin felt pad (you know the stuff you can buy at the hardware store with the sticky backing) underneath the bottom of the plunger - attach to the bracket upon which the plunger comes to rest (the plunger will rest on it instead of the metal bracket). This has the effect of reducing the stroke of the armature/plunger just enough to change the trajectory.

Simple - no tools required - and it has worked for me for 2+ years now.

Thanks PBFan I'll give that a shot tonight!

Update: one major benefit of working 5 minutes from home is lunch breaks... this seems to have done the trick! 100% of kickouts are now going directly to the left sling! cc: pinball_ric

I have some questions for the MET Pro owners who have installed a playfield protector:

- How easy was it to install, and were there any mech or switch adjustments required to account for the thicker surface?

- Does it interfere with Cliffys that are already on the game, and does it eliminate the need for certain Cliffys?

- Would a playfield protector help visually eliminate the ribbed surface that is apparently commonplace with the newer Stern Pro playfields?

Thanks!

I have a new green partial Convolux plastic protector set (ball guides and slingshots) available if anybody wants it. $30 shipped in the US. I already have a full green set on my game.

I also have a new full orange Convolux set if anybody wants that. $60 shipped in the US.

Pics below. Shoot me a PM if you’re interested. If you’re local, feel free to pick up and play a few games.

23DD0C9B-3D2A-4739-9364-C2A52C9610FA (resized).jpeg39392FDD-6145-4DD2-8BA2-4B53E52B14F5 (resized).jpegCD44FD33-79D4-4C1C-BCA3-F13B0B136D55 (resized).jpeg60E3E7B4-7D17-4B50-9CF0-A23970662780 (resized).jpeg84910CB8-5B3D-409A-B655-98AF2D744619 (resized).jpeg95E59813-6978-48EF-A38E-8D6CB2A163D1 (resized).jpeg

Speaking from my own experience, the grave marker protector was a bear to get on because of the cross; the Cliffy's I have didn't cause any issues; I can't answer the last one, we keep our playfield cleaned and waxed regularly and change out pinballs as well. We take care of it better than our cars.

I put one on my MET, and I love it on this game.

I’ve done a few, but I found MET went pretty easy and quick. I don’t recall any switch adjustments, but I would have taken the 10 seconds to do it if there were.

I have Cliffys in the shooter lane, and the scoop. At the scoop, the protector just lays over the Cliffy.

It won’t eliminate what’s there. So you will still see the ribbed texture if your game has it. I’m not the first owner of my MET, so the other day updating code the glare of the fluorescent tube really showed the playfield divots from before the protector. But I don’t care. The reason I did the protector on MET is because it gets quite a few games in my house, and I wanted it to last forever. I’ve put on protectors, but then taken them back off games because it didn’t play right. But on my MET, it’s great. Plus I took it to Saratoga for the show there, and barely had to clean it when I got back.

DaveH - Thank you for your response. A playfield protector sounds like the way to go. Too bad there’s not an easy fix to get rid of these ugly ribs.

One more question - do you remove the factory Mylar before adding the playfield protector?

A playfield protector subtly changes how the game plays in my experience. I never use them now. Clean and wax often is more than enough.

I've always wondered this. Can you wax a game too much? If so do you then need to remove the wax and start again after a while

You can't really wax too much, because when you reach that point, doing more waxing actually takes wax off. That doesn't mean you can't get buildup in corners or on star posts, etc, but regular cleaning, waxing and buffing is a way better solution than a playfield protector, IMO.

No, and you will need to raise the drop targets til they are flush with the protector.

finnflash is correct. You don’t remove the Mylar. And as he said, you need to raise the drop targets, and also the post in the back. There are adjustments built into the mechs to raise them.

Thanks again!

Anyone have a link to the previous Prem/LE code? Want to give it a shot.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/307#post-4751651

Anyone ever had the snake on a premium pin register the ball, kick it out, but not give a letter? This seems to be happening to me frequently now. Thanks.

Need a lineup change

Machine - For Sale

Metallica Premium MINT- For Sale or Trade Archived

As new - New out of box (first owner) - “Time to change things up. Here's my absolutely flawless Metallica Monsters Premium with some fantastic tasteful mods. I bought it NIB less than a year ago. Not a flaw on it. Perfec...”

2019-01-11

Livermore, CA

imagamejunky

7,400 (OBO)

Archived after: 12 days

Viewed: 384 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

you have to qualify the snake shot first in order to acquire a letter by shooting one of the lit snake shots on the playfield prior to shooting the ball into the snake mouth

Can someone explain or perhaps post a photo showing the fix for grave markers (I believe it was a washer trick).

The first one always drop once the targets are loaded. It sounds like it quickly loads it a couple of times, and the first one always drops down.

Thanks

If the laughably thin newer Stern plastic reset ledge broke a washer will not help you. I'd do a visual inspection to make sure that the little black plastic ledge the target hangs on when reset is still all there and not broken first.

Can you post a pic of this?

He is referring to the ledge on the drop target. If it is broken, the target would never stay up.

Capture (resized).PNG

You mean those two "teeth" the rest on the ledge of the pf?

They're white (part of the long target) but he referred to a black piece.

Looks like this:
https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/decals/decals-target/ledge-1-bank-drop-target-black-plastic/

I don't think Metallica has those, though I may be wrong. The inline drop targets rest on the metal bracket.

Capture (resized).PNG

If it's just resting on the metal bracket cutout, then adding a washer to the front of the target to force it against the top edge more tightly is probably the correct solution (unless the two tabs on the drop target have worn or broken).

Yes, it rests on the metal frame.

Here's a video showing it in coil test.

I took it apart and tightened everything up but still does not fix the issue.

Both the tabs on the drop target that rest on the metal shelf are still there?

If so, adding another washer to the front so it presses the target harder against the ledge might help.

Also, is the mech that that one target is on bent AWAY from the ledge so the target can't fully reach the ledge every time? I'm not sure how those are mounted, but that might be another area to check.

Looking for a link to coffin to sit on top of captive balls on pro. Any help ? Thx

I thought this was funny, cause it was right under your post.

Screenshot_20190114-215602_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg

No, I was looking for the cheap ebay one people are using. There's been a link but I cant find. Lermods are too nice fr me

So, my MET Pro almost caught on fire?
My right ramp flasher went out. Discussed on this forum and was thought likely a transistor. Took the board off and checked resistance across the associated transistor at Q27 on the J6 section of the driver board. Sure enough, all were same except that one. Nice. Emailed Stern, told them the issue, told them my plan to change it out, got the part number and got the transistor mailed to me from Marco.

Ok, so prior to changing it out, the game played fine, just no right ramp flasher...so, last night I changed the transistor out to the new TIP122 transistor without obvious technical issue. I was excited to see how it went. Plugged everything back in, seated everything in well, replaced the back glass and turned it on....yep, right flasher worked, but upon game boot up, it stayed on, along with all the sparky flashers. Wierd. I turned game off and turned on again. Same thing. While I was thinking just wtf, smoke started coming up from behind the pf by Sparky. Cool look but WTF!! Turned game off, unplugged. Checked under and behind pf, in backbox and around board, board off to look...nothing looked burnt and couldn't find out just what the hell happened.
By the way, I checked resistance across the q27 region after all of this, and not only is there strange numbers from there, but across multiple areas in the j6 Flasher section of the driver board. Man, I just don't know. Totally depressing.
Anyway, I have the I/O board out now and game unplugged. MET is out of commission for now. Damn. I querried Stern but no response yet (it was evening last night when it happened).
Any ideas??? Ugh!!!!.....

Was it the sparky coil that went up i smoke? That's been known to happen when you open the coin door but haven't heard of it locking on when you power cycle the game.

Might require a road trip, you aren't that far away. I am betting the first target is barely sitting on the metal ledge. It is much easier to work on that mech when it is out of the game. It comes out as one assembly very easily.

I gave a good look to the Sparky coil. Looked generally ok. Didn't look burnt. Spoke with Chas at Stern tech support this morning. He recommends working with my local distributor to send in my current driver board for repair. My worry now is, even with a working board, there may have been some peripheral damage from this episode that I haven't been able to yet diagnose. Man, what a bummer. Will keep you posted.

If it is, it is. Just keep your hand on the power switch when you flip it back on. If anything locks on, snap it back off and diagnose.

And of course, before any of that, check and connectors being “off by one”, especially the ribbon cables. Most have keys to prevent it, but sometimes things get missed. I’ve had ribbon cables on Whitestar off by half the block which causes all kinds of fun. So check everything again. Take them all back off, and start fresh before applying power again.

I believe the sparky coil lock can happen if you power off/on the game with the coin door open.

Good to know! I'll have to remember never to do that

We're live and Skipnatty is going for End of the Line on the latest Metallica code! http://www.twitch.tv/buffalopinball

We have a Metallica Pro with mirror blades. As you are playing you can see several of the lights through the blades... which is normal, of coarse. But, it’s like staring into a 100 watt light bulb. My eyes hurt when I’m done playing. I really like the mirror blades so I don’t want to get rid of them but have been thinking of swapping out some of these bulbs with either frosted ones or some that are not as bright. When I look at different sites with bulbs I’m lost. What’s a good brand to go with? Is one better than the other? Thank You for your thoughts, input, and direction...

Swap the ones you see in the mirrors with frosted and you should be fine.

All of my gi is frosted and the two spots that really bugged me (left just above fuel targets and down by the left outlane) I put some flex in there and face them away from me. So much better

There were a couple GI leds in direct line of sight that bothered me. I replaced them with Comet Twin 2835 SMD frosted and they look great. About the same brightness as on the stock led-Pro but much easier on the eyes with the frosted lens.