(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

5 years ago



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#15451 15 days ago

I do have to fix that flipper buzz on my left flipper. Also, I keep unplugging and replugging in the ethernet cable to stop the seizure mode that it goes into every few weeks. Anyone have a permanent fix on that? Is it more likely to be the ethernet cable or the node board?

#15452 15 days ago
Quoted from Draegermeister:

I do have to fix that flipper buzz on my left flipper. Also, I keep unplugging and replugging in the ethernet cable to stop the seizure mode that it goes into every few weeks. Anyone have a permanent fix on that? Is it more likely to be the ethernet cable or the node board?

????

MET is a SAM system and has no nodeboards. They are for Spike system. So which ethernetcable are you talking About?

#15453 15 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

????
MET is a SAM system and has no nodeboards. They are for Spike system. So which ethernetcable are you talking About?

The CAT5/6 cable carries the controlled GI data. Yeah it's not a "node" board like Spike, but it is a purpose-specific board.

#15454 15 days ago

it is a known issue that the ethernet cable and/or the solder points of the power connection on that board under the playfield to be points of failure

#15455 15 days ago
Quoted from Draegermeister:

I do have to fix that flipper buzz on my left flipper. Also, I keep unplugging and replugging in the ethernet cable to stop the seizure mode that it goes into every few weeks. Anyone have a permanent fix on that? Is it more likely to be the ethernet cable or the node board?

Not sure what you mean by seizure mode. Every once in awhile my lights start acting like they're all ghosting or flickering. I think I have it narrowed down to the header pins on the left board bottom center connector. Usually I play with that and it goes away for a while. I would have to be in front of machine to 100% tell you which one it was.

#15456 15 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Anyone have tips on adjusting the snake kickout on a pro? Mine was totally fine the first couple months I had it, then suddenly it just started kicking down the middle about 80% of the time. I've scanned through this thread for answers but it seems like everyone recommends adjusting the power setting. I have tried that all over the map with no beneficial result. I also tried partially disassembling the assembly but it doesn't seem like there's much play in how it sits.
I'm thinking about adding a thin, soft pad to one side of the mouth's eject path to help guide it away from the center. Anyone done this or something similar?

One simple (low-tech) solution that worked for me was to place a thin felt pad (you know the stuff you can buy at the hardware store with the sticky backing) underneath the bottom of the plunger - attach to the bracket upon which the plunger comes to rest (the plunger will rest on it instead of the metal bracket). This has the effect of reducing the stroke of the armature/plunger just enough to change the trajectory.

Simple - no tools required - and it has worked for me for 2+ years now.

#15457 15 days ago

Thanks PBFan I'll give that a shot tonight!

#15458 14 days ago
Quoted from PBFan:

One simple (low-tech) solution that worked for me was to place a thin felt pad (you know the stuff you can buy at the hardware store with the sticky backing) underneath the bottom of the plunger - attach to the bracket upon which the plunger comes to rest (the plunger will rest on it instead of the metal bracket). This has the effect of reducing the stroke of the armature/plunger just enough to change the trajectory.
Simple - no tools required - and it has worked for me for 2+ years now.

Update: one major benefit of working 5 minutes from home is lunch breaks... this seems to have done the trick! 100% of kickouts are now going directly to the left sling! cc: pinball_ric

#15459 14 days ago

I have some questions for the MET Pro owners who have installed a playfield protector:

- How easy was it to install, and were there any mech or switch adjustments required to account for the thicker surface?

- Does it interfere with Cliffys that are already on the game, and does it eliminate the need for certain Cliffys?

- Would a playfield protector help visually eliminate the ribbed surface that is apparently commonplace with the newer Stern Pro playfields?

Thanks!

#15460 14 days ago

I have a new green partial Convolux plastic protector set (ball guides and slingshots) available if anybody wants it. $30 shipped in the US. I already have a full green set on my game.

I also have a new full orange Convolux set if anybody wants that. $60 shipped in the US.

Pics below. Shoot me a PM if you’re interested. If you’re local, feel free to pick up and play a few games.

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#15461 14 days ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

I have some questions for the MET Pro owners who have installed a playfield protector:
- How easy was it to install, and were there any mech or switch adjustments required to account for the thicker surface?
- Does it interfere with Cliffys that are already on the game, and does it eliminate the need for certain Cliffys?
- Would a playfield protector help visually eliminate the ribbed surface that is apparently commonplace with the newer Stern Pro playfields?
Thanks!

Speaking from my own experience, the grave marker protector was a bear to get on because of the cross; the Cliffy's I have didn't cause any issues; I can't answer the last one, we keep our playfield cleaned and waxed regularly and change out pinballs as well. We take care of it better than our cars.

#15462 14 days ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

I have some questions for the MET Pro owners who have installed a playfield protector:
- How easy was it to install, and were there any mech or switch adjustments required to account for the thicker surface?
- Does it interfere with Cliffys that are already on the game, and does it eliminate the need for certain Cliffys?
- Would a playfield protector help visually eliminate the ribbed surface that is apparently commonplace with the newer Stern Pro playfields?
Thanks!

I put one on my MET, and I love it on this game.

I’ve done a few, but I found MET went pretty easy and quick. I don’t recall any switch adjustments, but I would have taken the 10 seconds to do it if there were.

I have Cliffys in the shooter lane, and the scoop. At the scoop, the protector just lays over the Cliffy.

It won’t eliminate what’s there. So you will still see the ribbed texture if your game has it. I’m not the first owner of my MET, so the other day updating code the glare of the fluorescent tube really showed the playfield divots from before the protector. But I don’t care. The reason I did the protector on MET is because it gets quite a few games in my house, and I wanted it to last forever. I’ve put on protectors, but then taken them back off games because it didn’t play right. But on my MET, it’s great. Plus I took it to Saratoga for the show there, and barely had to clean it when I got back.

#15463 14 days ago

DaveH - Thank you for your response. A playfield protector sounds like the way to go. Too bad there’s not an easy fix to get rid of these ugly ribs.

#15464 14 days ago

One more question - do you remove the factory Mylar before adding the playfield protector?

#15465 14 days ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

DaveH - Thank you for your response. A playfield protector sounds like the way to go. Too bad there’s not an easy fix to get rid of these ugly ribs.

A playfield protector subtly changes how the game plays in my experience. I never use them now. Clean and wax often is more than enough.

#15466 14 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

A playfield protector subtly changes how the game plays in my experience. I never use them now. Clean and wax often is more than enough.

I've always wondered this. Can you wax a game too much? If so do you then need to remove the wax and start again after a while

#15467 14 days ago
Quoted from embryon:

I've always wondered this. Can you wax a game too much? If so do you then need to remove the wax and start again after a while

You can't really wax too much, because when you reach that point, doing more waxing actually takes wax off. That doesn't mean you can't get buildup in corners or on star posts, etc, but regular cleaning, waxing and buffing is a way better solution than a playfield protector, IMO.

#15468 14 days ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

One more question - do you remove the factory Mylar before adding the playfield protector?

No, and you will need to raise the drop targets til they are flush with the protector.

#15469 14 days ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

One more question - do you remove the factory Mylar before adding the playfield protector?

Quoted from finnflash:

No, and you will need to raise the drop targets til they are flush with the protector.

finnflash is correct. You don’t remove the Mylar. And as he said, you need to raise the drop targets, and also the post in the back. There are adjustments built into the mechs to raise them.

#15470 14 days ago
Quoted from DaveH:

finnflash is correct. You don’t remove the Mylar. And as he said, you need to raise the drop targets, and also the post in the back. There are adjustments built into the mechs to raise them.

Thanks again!

#15471 12 days ago

Anyone have a link to the previous Prem/LE code? Want to give it a shot.

#15473 11 days ago

Anyone ever had the snake on a premium pin register the ball, kick it out, but not give a letter? This seems to be happening to me frequently now. Thanks.

#15474 11 days ago

Need a lineup change

Machine - For Sale
NOB - New out of box (first owner) “Time to change things up. Here's my absolutely flawless Metallica Monsters Premium with some fantastic tasteful mods. I bought it NIB less than a year ago. Not a flaw on it. Perfec...”
11 days ago
Livermore, CA
7,400 (OBO)

#15475 11 days ago
Quoted from iAmKemo:

Anyone ever had the snake on a premium pin register the ball, kick it out, but not give a letter? This seems to be happening to me frequently now. Thanks.

you have to qualify the snake shot first in order to acquire a letter by shooting one of the lit snake shots on the playfield prior to shooting the ball into the snake mouth

#15476 8 days ago

Can someone explain or perhaps post a photo showing the fix for grave markers (I believe it was a washer trick).

The first one always drop once the targets are loaded. It sounds like it quickly loads it a couple of times, and the first one always drops down.

Thanks

#15477 8 days ago
Quoted from Damien:

Can someone explain or perhaps post a photo showing the fix for grave markers (I believe it was a washer trick).
The first one always drop once the targets are loaded. It sounds like it quickly loads it a couple of times, and the first one always drops down.
Thanks

If the laughably thin newer Stern plastic reset ledge broke a washer will not help you. I'd do a visual inspection to make sure that the little black plastic ledge the target hangs on when reset is still all there and not broken first.

#15478 8 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

If the laughably thin newer Stern plastic reset ledge broke a washer will not help you. I'd do a visual inspection to make sure that the little black plastic ledge the target hangs on when reset is still all there and not broken first.

Can you post a pic of this?

#15479 8 days ago
Quoted from Damien:

Can you post a pic of this?

He is referring to the ledge on the drop target. If it is broken, the target would never stay up.

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#15480 8 days ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

He is referring to the ledge on the drop target. If it is broken, the target would never stay up.
[quoted image]

You mean those two "teeth" the rest on the ledge of the pf?

They're white (part of the long target) but he referred to a black piece.

#15482 7 days ago

I don't think Metallica has those, though I may be wrong. The inline drop targets rest on the metal bracket.

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#15483 7 days ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I don't think Metallica has those, though I may be wrong. The inline drop targets rest on the metal bracket.
[quoted image]

If it's just resting on the metal bracket cutout, then adding a washer to the front of the target to force it against the top edge more tightly is probably the correct solution (unless the two tabs on the drop target have worn or broken).

#15484 7 days ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I don't think Metallica has those, though I may be wrong. The inline drop targets rest on the metal bracket.
[quoted image]

Yes, it rests on the metal frame.

Here's a video showing it in coil test.

I took it apart and tightened everything up but still does not fix the issue.

#15485 7 days ago
Quoted from Damien:

Yes, it rests on the metal frame.
Here's a video showing it in coil test.
I took it apart and tightened everything up but still does not fix the issue.

Both the tabs on the drop target that rest on the metal shelf are still there?

If so, adding another washer to the front so it presses the target harder against the ledge might help.

Also, is the mech that that one target is on bent AWAY from the ledge so the target can't fully reach the ledge every time? I'm not sure how those are mounted, but that might be another area to check.

#15486 7 days ago

Looking for a link to coffin to sit on top of captive balls on pro. Any help ? Thx

#15487 7 days ago

I thought this was funny, cause it was right under your post.

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#15488 7 days ago

No, I was looking for the cheap ebay one people are using. There's been a link but I cant find. Lermods are too nice fr me

#15489 7 days ago

So, my MET Pro almost caught on fire?
My right ramp flasher went out. Discussed on this forum and was thought likely a transistor. Took the board off and checked resistance across the associated transistor at Q27 on the J6 section of the driver board. Sure enough, all were same except that one. Nice. Emailed Stern, told them the issue, told them my plan to change it out, got the part number and got the transistor mailed to me from Marco.

Ok, so prior to changing it out, the game played fine, just no right ramp flasher...so, last night I changed the transistor out to the new TIP122 transistor without obvious technical issue. I was excited to see how it went. Plugged everything back in, seated everything in well, replaced the back glass and turned it on....yep, right flasher worked, but upon game boot up, it stayed on, along with all the sparky flashers. Wierd. I turned game off and turned on again. Same thing. While I was thinking just wtf, smoke started coming up from behind the pf by Sparky. Cool look but WTF!! Turned game off, unplugged. Checked under and behind pf, in backbox and around board, board off to look...nothing looked burnt and couldn't find out just what the hell happened.
By the way, I checked resistance across the q27 region after all of this, and not only is there strange numbers from there, but across multiple areas in the j6 Flasher section of the driver board. Man, I just don't know. Totally depressing.
Anyway, I have the I/O board out now and game unplugged. MET is out of commission for now. Damn. I querried Stern but no response yet (it was evening last night when it happened).
Any ideas??? Ugh!!!!.....

#15490 6 days ago

Was it the sparky coil that went up i smoke? That's been known to happen when you open the coin door but haven't heard of it locking on when you power cycle the game.

#15491 6 days ago
Quoted from Damien:

Yes, it rests on the metal frame.
Here's a video showing it in coil test.
I took it apart and tightened everything up but still does not fix the issue.

Might require a road trip, you aren't that far away. I am betting the first target is barely sitting on the metal ledge. It is much easier to work on that mech when it is out of the game. It comes out as one assembly very easily.

#15492 6 days ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Was it the sparky coil that went up i smoke? That's been known to happen when you open the coin door but haven't heard of it locking on when you power cycle the game.

I gave a good look to the Sparky coil. Looked generally ok. Didn't look burnt. Spoke with Chas at Stern tech support this morning. He recommends working with my local distributor to send in my current driver board for repair. My worry now is, even with a working board, there may have been some peripheral damage from this episode that I haven't been able to yet diagnose. Man, what a bummer. Will keep you posted.

#15493 6 days ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

My worry now is, even with a working board, there may have been some peripheral damage from this episode that I haven't been able to yet diagnose.

If it is, it is. Just keep your hand on the power switch when you flip it back on. If anything locks on, snap it back off and diagnose.

And of course, before any of that, check and connectors being “off by one”, especially the ribbon cables. Most have keys to prevent it, but sometimes things get missed. I’ve had ribbon cables on Whitestar off by half the block which causes all kinds of fun. So check everything again. Take them all back off, and start fresh before applying power again.

#15494 6 days ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Was it the sparky coil that went up i smoke? That's been known to happen when you open the coin door but haven't heard of it locking on when you power cycle the game.

I believe the sparky coil lock can happen if you power off/on the game with the coin door open.

#15495 5 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I believe the sparky coil lock can happen if you power off/on the game with the coin door open.

Good to know! I'll have to remember never to do that

#15496 5 days ago

We're live and Skipnatty is going for End of the Line on the latest Metallica code! http://www.twitch.tv/buffalopinball

#15497 5 days ago

We have a Metallica Pro with mirror blades. As you are playing you can see several of the lights through the blades... which is normal, of coarse. But, it’s like staring into a 100 watt light bulb. My eyes hurt when I’m done playing. I really like the mirror blades so I don’t want to get rid of them but have been thinking of swapping out some of these bulbs with either frosted ones or some that are not as bright. When I look at different sites with bulbs I’m lost. What’s a good brand to go with? Is one better than the other? Thank You for your thoughts, input, and direction...

#15498 5 days ago
Quoted from bsobie:

We have a Metallica Pro with mirror blades. As you are playing you can see several of the lights through the blades... which is normal, of coarse. But, it’s like staring into a 100 watt light bulb. My eyes hurt when I’m done playing. I really like the mirror blades so I don’t want to get rid of them but have been thinking of swapping out some of these bulbs with either frosted ones or some that are not as bright. When I look at different sites with bulbs I’m lost. What’s a good brand to go with? Is one better than the other? Thank You for your thoughts, input, and direction...

Swap the ones you see in the mirrors with frosted and you should be fine.

#15499 5 days ago
Quoted from bsobie:

We have a Metallica Pro with mirror blades. As you are playing you can see several of the lights through the blades... which is normal, of coarse. But, it’s like staring into a 100 watt light bulb. My eyes hurt when I’m done playing. I really like the mirror blades so I don’t want to get rid of them but have been thinking of swapping out some of these bulbs with either frosted ones or some that are not as bright. When I look at different sites with bulbs I’m lost. What’s a good brand to go with? Is one better than the other? Thank You for your thoughts, input, and direction...

All of my gi is frosted and the two spots that really bugged me (left just above fuel targets and down by the left outlane) I put some flex in there and face them away from me. So much better

#15500 5 days ago
Quoted from bsobie:

We have a Metallica Pro with mirror blades. As you are playing you can see several of the lights through the blades... which is normal, of coarse. But, it’s like staring into a 100 watt light bulb. My eyes hurt when I’m done playing. I really like the mirror blades so I don’t want to get rid of them but have been thinking of swapping out some of these bulbs with either frosted ones or some that are not as bright. When I look at different sites with bulbs I’m lost. What’s a good brand to go with? Is one better than the other? Thank You for your thoughts, input, and direction...

There were a couple GI leds in direct line of sight that bothered me. I replaced them with Comet Twin 2835 SMD frosted and they look great. About the same brightness as on the stock led-Pro but much easier on the eyes with the frosted lens.

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