(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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#1451 5 years ago

Hi,
new Met Pro owner here. I picked up a machine that was said to be like new, and although the seller and I don't have the exact same definition of "like new", I think I got it at a fair price for both parties.
Now, everything is indeed looking pretty much perfect except for the guitar pick inserts right above the flippers. I still need to clean everything up to make sure it's not just dirt but I think they're starting to show some wear.
I didn't read through the whole thread but is this something common?

Cheers
Phil

#1452 5 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Check Fuse #7 behind the back glass. Mine blew once. Replaced it and no problems since

All your magnets go out (all 3) at once? Thanks, just got back from Radio Shack, 4A slow blow fuses. Busy today, but will try and get to it tonight or the morning. What would have caused it to blow? Thanks for reply Roostking.

#1453 5 years ago
Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

. If CIU qualification involved super jackpots, mode starts/completions I would tend to agree with you, but as it stands you simply just wail on the feature shots, and shoot lit inserts to get into it.

If you're not getting a super jackpot of some sort prior to starting a CIU mode, you're probably not playing that well. I understand what you're saying in that it's not REQUIRED but....yeah... SJP's aren't that hard to get on Metallica...

Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

As Bowen has stated online and in person many times, that tournament is a self-professed fun-fest, not so much a measure of true competitive play.

If that's the case, it shouldn't award so damn many IFPA points to high ranking players. I challenge all of them to opt out of recieving WPPRs for Pinburg, because, it's just for the fun right?

#1454 5 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

If you're not getting a super jackpot of some sort prior to starting a CIU mode, you're probably not playing that well. I understand what you're saying in that it's not REQUIRED but....yeah... SJP's aren't that hard to get on Metallica...

No kidding. Just a shame there's no 'point' to most of them except points. Sparky notwithstanding after 7 SJPs

If that's the case, it shouldn't award so damn many IFPA points to high ranking players. I challenge all of them to opt out of recieving WPPRs for Pinburg, because, it's just for the fun right?

Well I don't like to put words in peoples mouths but the whole tournament is and has been described to me as fun, not serious. There are folks who take it seriously and they are foolish imo. The whole tournament is designed to level the playing field between the best and the worst players. With the early solid states and EM's being very prominent there is a much higher component of luck than any other tournament. Even the best players in the world can take a crap on 3 balls on a totally unplayed game, and there's no change at increasing your performance - you just move on. I had the opportunity to play with Steve Bowden due to his and my performance and we are not at all in the same level of skill, yet due to some bad balls on his part, and good balls on mine, we were 'equals' for a time - that's the magic that is Pinburgh (imo )

That said, I couldn't care less about IFPA WPPR points so that's between the players that do and the respective organizations.

#1455 5 years ago
Quoted from PhilGreg:

Hi,
new Met Pro owner here. I picked up a machine that was said to be like new, and although the seller and I don't have the exact same definition of "like new", I think I got it at a fair price for both parties.
Now, everything is indeed looking pretty much perfect except for the guitar pick inserts right above the flippers. I still need to clean everything up to make sure it's not just dirt but I think they're starting to show some wear.
I didn't read through the whole thread but is this something common?
Cheers
Phil

So, turns out it's not wear, although I'm not sure whether that's good news or bad.
It seems like most of the inserts are either raised, a little lower than a mylar would be, or there's a tiny gap around them (see video).
I've never owner a Stern before, is that normal?

https://picasaweb.google.com/111510297116404498955/Pinside#6075079896691427282

#1456 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

All your magnets go out (all 3) at once? Thanks, just got back from Radio Shack, 4A slow blow fuses. Busy today, but will try and get to it tonight or the morning. What would have caused it to blow? Thanks for reply Roostking.

Hmm. 4A thats different than the fuse that blew on mine (7). Yep, mine went out at the same time as well. Fixed the fuse and all has been well since. My backglass light also went out roughly the same time(Afterwards) I wonder if I had some huge powersurge or something? This all happened about 2 months into playing and its been good for 5 months(Im back overseas for a bit again)

#1457 5 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Hmm. 4A thats different than the fuse that blew on mine (7). Yep, mine went out at the same time as well. Fixed the fuse and all has been well since. My backglass light also went out roughly the same time(Afterwards) I wonder if I had some huge powersurge or something? This all happened about 2 months into playing and its been good for 5 months(Im back overseas for a bit again)

So, just a quick update, pulled the backglass and powered up the machine. F7 fuse LED was out, pulled the fuse and put in a new 4A slo blo, and powered machine on, and the fuse got bright red and blew! So I called Stern, spoke to Chaz, he had me unplug the main plug on the magnet board, put a new fuse in F7 and turn machine on, and the fuse did NOT blow. So Chaz says its the magnet board, and there sending another board to me. Keep in mind this was the upgraded board installed at factory, my serial number and Chaz had me check for a red dot on the I.C., and there was one. So I got a bad one, or did I over power it when I switched setting adjustment #89 abort hammer?The default is yes, I switched it to NO, and like 10 games later this happened. Would changing this setting overloaded the circuit? The hammer was getting more action when I change that setting. Someone on pinside here, said to change #89 adjustments to NO and no more problems with hammer, my hammer was fine and so was the magnet, but sometimes it would act up so I changed it anyway, cuz the responses from other pinsiders saying no more phantom strikes, and magnet grabbing stronger, made me want to do it. Or its just a bad board, it happens with mass produced things. Excellent customer service from Stern, and Gio at Pinball Refinery! Top notch all around!

#1458 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

My magnets all stopped working. All the sudden the coffin magnet grabbed the ball, held it and the hammer never went down, and the magnet just kept holding it, then after it released it, ALL magnets in the game no longer work. Game does have the upgraded magnet board as I checked the Stern website and matched up my serial numbers. Any idea where to look? Has this happened to anyone elses Metallica? Thanks

I know of a few instances with the transistor shorting out on the magnet board. After changing the fuse, start the game with the coin door open (interlock disabled), get a ball and hold it near the coffin magnet, then pull out the interlock to enable high power. If the magnet energizes, your board is bad. Disable the high power immediately so the magnet coil does not overheat. Leave the magnet board unplugged and you can play the game with the other magnets (disable the hammer in adjustments and set the coffin lock to captive ball virtual locks) until you get it fixed.

EDIT looks like you already got it resolved. Hope they figure out why these are locking on!

#1459 5 years ago

I will have to talk to Stern when I get home. Do they need the old board back??? Glad you got it figured out..

#1460 5 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

I will have to talk to Stern when I get home. Do they need the old board back??? Glad you got it figured out..

you having issues now?

Quoted from metallik:

I know of a few instances with the transistor shorting out on the magnet board. After changing the fuse, start the game with the coin door open (interlock disabled), get a ball and hold it near the coffin magnet, then pull out the interlock to enable high power. If the magnet energizes, your board is bad. Disable the high power immediately so the magnet coil does not overheat. Leave the magnet board unplugged and you can play the game with the other magnets (disable the hammer in adjustments and set the coffin lock to captive ball virtual locks) until you get it fixed.
EDIT looks like you already got it resolved. Hope they figure out why these are locking on!

After magnets stopped working, and I was trying to get the test the coffin magnet, the hammer never wanted to come down, just the captive ball hits just counted up NO hammer strikes. I figure if there is no initial magnet grab on the ball, then there would be NO signal sent to hammer to strike, without that grab of the magnet, no hammer strikes. Before the issues, the coffin magnet would grab the ball, but release ball early and the hammer came down striking nothing, that happened only 2 times. I never seen the hammer just come down for no reason, unless, like I said there was an initial grab by magnet.

#1461 5 years ago
Quoted from PhilGreg:

So, turns out it's not wear, although I'm not sure whether that's good news or bad.
It seems like most of the inserts are either raised, a little lower than a mylar would be, or there's a tiny gap around them (see video).
I've never owner a Stern before, is that normal?
https://picasaweb.google.com/111510297116404498955/Pinside#6075079896691427282

I thought the samething, but run your hand on the playfield, it should be smooth. At certain angles where light hits the playfield, mine looks wavy, and inserts like you said, then at other angles you see smoothness. Took my hand and ran across where I see this and its smooth. Iam gonna say normal, if its smooth. If its bumpy, grainy feel (orange peel texture) then no, not normal.

#1462 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I thought the samething, but run your hand on the playfield, it should be smooth. At certain angles where light hits the playfield, mine looks wavy, and inserts like you said, then at other angles you see smoothness. Took my hand and ran across where I see this and its smooth. Iam gonna say normal, if its smooth. If its bumpy, grainy feel (orange peel texture) then no, not normal.

Actually I'm not talking about bumpy or grainy as a whole, I mean that if run my finger across the inserts (particularly the guitar picks between the flippers), if feel them going up as if there was a mylar (let's say half as thick) over them. If you look at the video you can see the light exposing the round shape of the inserts.

#1463 5 years ago

Man, I think I am going to have to get a Pro in the near future. I'm trying to hold off, but the game just keeps calling me D: ....

It would be my very first NIB or in another case I am looking at, a very nicely suped-up Pro. I'm trying to resist, but I'm weak D:

#1464 5 years ago

the metallica pro is the most fun machine right now imo. go for it!

#1465 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

you having issues now?

After magnets stopped working, and I was trying to get the test the coffin magnet, the hammer never wanted to come down, just the captive ball hits just counted up NO hammer strikes. I figure if there is no initial magnet grab on the ball, then there would be NO signal sent to hammer to strike, without that grab of the magnet, no hammer strikes. Before the issues, the coffin magnet would grab the ball, but release ball early and the hammer came down striking nothing, that happened only 2 times. I never seen the hammer just come down for no reason, unless, like I said there was an initial grab by magnet.

NO, not since the original issue, but if I can get a new board sooner, rather than later.

#1466 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Man, I think I am going to have to get a Pro in the near future. I'm trying to hold off, but the game just keeps calling me D: ....
It would be my very first NIB or in another case I am looking at, a very nicely suped-up Pro. I'm trying to resist, but I'm weak D:

go for it, cant be wrong with this pin

#1467 5 years ago

Oh it's in the works right now.... pick up tentatively this Sunday....w00t

#1468 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Oh it's in the works right now.... pick up tentatively this Sunday....w00t

Have fun modding it. What's first to go on?

#1469 5 years ago

Im Thinking about switching to white rubbers, what size are the sling rubbers on MET? They look small 2"?

#1470 5 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Im Thinking about switching to white rubbers, what size are the sling rubbers on MET? They look small 2"?

The manual says 2"... but haven't taken mine off to double check .

http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/games/metallica/pro/421/MTLAB1.PDF

#1471 5 years ago

After playing Seek and Destory, all the inserts are reset and turned off.
Do shots still award all three items or have to to start over locking in items?

#1472 5 years ago
Quoted from JC_Pins:

Do shots still award all three items

Nope

have to to start over locking in items?

Yes

#1473 5 years ago

So, it seems best to avoid starting Seek and Destroy if you want to get to all the CIU modes.

#1474 5 years ago
Quoted from JC_Pins:

So, it seems best to avoid starting Seek and Destroy if you want to get to all the CIU modes.

Yep

#1475 5 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Have fun modding it. What's first to go on?

Oh trust me, this one has all sorts of bells and whistles already on it...!

Pictures to come late this weekend. Weirpinball is setting me up SUPER well!!!

#1476 5 years ago
Quoted from JC_Pins:

So, it seems best to avoid starting Seek and Destroy if you want to get to all the CIU modes.

Not necessarily avoid it. Just concentrate on starting CIU modes. Lock one shot and keep shooting it (right ramp is my favorite). If you have a big enough game, you'll probably start S&D with incidental shots eventually anyway.

#1477 5 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Im Thinking about switching to white rubbers, what size are the sling rubbers on MET? They look small 2"?

Ya 2"; I put white in mine everywhere except the pop bumpers area - still gotta do that (I've been lazy in the mod dept lately lol). I like the white better for this title. I tried all sorts of different colored flipper rubbers, in the end I found black was best for this title.

#1478 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Oh trust me, this one has all sorts of bells and whistles already on it...!
Pictures to come late this weekend. Weirpinball is setting me up SUPER well!!!

I know of 2 it doesn't have.

#1479 5 years ago

Leaving the club this weekend. Sucks, but we will meet again someday.
image-612.jpgimage-594.jpg

#1480 5 years ago

Waiting for a box to arrive....

#1481 5 years ago
Quoted from tamoore:

Waiting for a box to arrive....

You ordered yours already? I think I'll be doing that next week since a "Shadow" will be seen exiting my house!

#1482 5 years ago
Quoted from tamoore:

Waiting for a box to arrive....

my box will be here today, I am stoked!

#1483 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

So, just a quick update, pulled the backglass and powered up the machine. F7 fuse LED was out, pulled the fuse and put in a new 4A slo blo, and powered machine on, and the fuse got bright red and blew! So I called Stern, spoke to Chaz, he had me unplug the main plug on the magnet board, put a new fuse in F7 and turn machine on, and the fuse did NOT blow. So Chaz says its the magnet board, and there sending another board to me. Keep in mind this was the upgraded board installed at factory, my serial number and Chaz had me check for a red dot on the I.C., and there was one. So I got a bad one, or did I over power it when I switched setting adjustment #89 abort hammer?The default is yes, I switched it to NO, and like 10 games later this happened. Would changing this setting overloaded the circuit? The hammer was getting more action when I change that setting. Someone on pinside here, said to change #89 adjustments to NO and no more problems with hammer, my hammer was fine and so was the magnet, but sometimes it would act up so I changed it anyway, cuz the responses from other pinsiders saying no more phantom strikes, and magnet grabbing stronger, made me want to do it. Or its just a bad board, it happens with mass produced things. Excellent customer service from Stern, and Gio at Pinball Refinery! Top notch all around!

Hey, curious how long you have owned your MET? Had the exact same thing happen with the magnet board 2 weeks ago. My importer wants to charge for the replacement board, but The game is 2 years old (is a Mople that was NIB until I bought it 6 months ago off the original purchaser).

#1484 5 years ago
Quoted from JC_Pins:

So, it seems best to avoid starting Seek and Destroy if you want to get to all the CIU modes.

If you are gunning for EoL mode, probably delaying it as long as you can is wise, but depending on timing it's not always the end of the world and the start of woodchopping. It's also unlikely to keep it from starting by the second or third CIU anyway just due to the number of multiballs and shots that occur during them.

Now that said, If I have SnD started and I'm working on getting progression instead of pure score, I usually try to get in and out of Battery and/or Enter Sandman CIU modes ASAP and get back into regular play and ideally a multiball. During SnD, the CIU collection shots count so if you keep it going, you can light CIU really quick again.

I certainly do not TRY to shoot for SnD since 1.5 code arrived, but instead do what Phishrace above suggested where you lock in a few lanes (cross and right ramp being the top 2 for me) and that's what you focus on.

#1485 5 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Hey, curious how long you have owned your MET? Had the exact same thing happen with the magnet board 2 weeks ago. My importer wants to charge for the replacement board, but The game is 2 years old (is a Mople that was NIB until I bought it 6 months ago off the original purchaser).

I would email Stern directly. Even off warranty, in my experience they tend to stand behind their product. Not saying it will be free, but if it's a known semi-common issue it's likely they will help you out to a better degree than some distributors might.

#1486 5 years ago
Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

During SnD, the CIU collection shots count so if you keep it going, you can light CIU really quick again.

It seems like S&D can be stacked with virtually any mode or multiball. Which is pretty damb cool.

Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

I would email Stern directly. Even off warranty, in my experience they tend to stand behind their product. Not saying it will be free, but if it's a known semi-common issue it's likely they will help you out to a better degree than some distributors might.

Agree. The big consideration here is that they issued a service bulletin on this board. They haven't done many service bulletins lately. If your game falls within the serial numbers listed in that SB, Stern should take care of it. They may ask you for the serial number.

#1487 5 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

It seems like S&D can be stacked with virtually any mode or multiball. Which is pretty damb cool.

Yeah I believe the only restriction on SnD is that is cannot be started in a CIU mode. I could be wrong on that but I THINK you have to start SnD prior to starting CIU.

#1488 5 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Im Thinking about switching to white rubbers, what size are the sling rubbers on MET? They look small 2"?

I can confirm as well. It's 2 inches.

I switched all mine to the transparent ones. Love it. If you are going to white I would give the transparent a try. The way the light plays with them is really cool. They feel as bouncy as the white rubbers too.

#1489 5 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I can confirm as well. It's 2 inches.
I switched all mine to the transparent ones. Love it. If you are going to white I would give the transparent a try. The way the light plays with them is really cool. They feel as bouncy as the white rubbers too.

Ive been so out of the loop (and lazy) on modding and such; where's the best place to get the transparent rubbers?

#1490 5 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Ive been so out of the loop (and lazy) on modding and such; where's the best place to get the transparent rubbers?

PBL used to carry them... don't know if they still have stock.

#1491 5 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Ive been so out of the loop (and lazy) on modding and such; where's the best place to get the transparent rubbers?

Stay lazy. MET plays like crap with transparent rubbers. Way way too bouncy. Guaranteed your scores and average ball times will decrease if you install them. Might as well buy an EM instead. You'll get less house balls. The bling isn't worth the decrease in playability.

#1492 5 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I can confirm as well. It's 2 inches.
I switched all mine to the transparent ones. Love it. If you are going to white I would give the transparent a try. The way the light plays with them is really cool. They feel as bouncy as the white rubbers too.

Good thought! I have clear rubber on my Tron LE and I really like the way they look!

#1493 5 years ago

hey guys , I got my new metallica yesterday and it is awesome, I was missing a couple playfield screws, they were not in the cabinet so I guess they just forgot to install them, also the power plug was not snapped in tight so the game would not fire up, took about 5 minutes to find the problem, I got lucky they sent me the led model, it is very bright, is there anything that I should do right away besides wax the playfield? thanks

#1494 5 years ago
Quoted from bobbyt:

hey guys , I got my new Metallica yesterday and it is awesome, I was missing a couple playfield screws, they were not in the cabinet so I guess they just forgot to install them, also the power plug was not snapped in tight so the game would not fire up, took about 5 minutes to find the problem, I got lucky they sent me the led model, it is very bright, is there anything that I should do right away besides wax the playfield? thanks

Id put a cliffy eject hole protector down asap (there is a specific one for met). The shooter lane where the ball comes out of the trough will start to show wear and/or discolor quickly. I also put a cliffy on the side rail in the shooter lane, but i didnt see damage there before hand.

#1495 5 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Hey, curious how long you have owned your MET? Had the exact same thing happen with the magnet board 2 weeks ago. My importer wants to charge for the replacement board, but The game is 2 years old (is a Mople that was NIB until I bought it 6 months ago off the original purchaser).

I ordered it late June, received it July 2nd this year.
Marcos also sells these magnet boards as well.$70

#1496 5 years ago
Quoted from bobbyt:

is there anything that I should do right away besides wax the playfield?

GET GOOD BALLS.

#1497 5 years ago
Quoted from bobbyt:

hey guys , I got my new Metallica yesterday and it is awesome, I was missing a couple playfield screws, they were not in the cabinet so I guess they just forgot to install them, also the power plug was not snapped in tight so the game would not fire up, took about 5 minutes to find the problem, I got lucky they sent me the led model, it is very bright, is there anything that I should do right away besides wax the playfield? thanks

Mezel fangs and tongue decals are must haves. Just really put the finishing touches that should have been there. Course to their credit stern tried on the fangs

#1498 5 years ago

Thank you for the great advice, I am going to order this stuff asap

#1499 5 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Stay lazy. MET plays like crap with transparent rubbers. Way way too bouncy. Guaranteed your scores and average ball times will decrease if you install them. Might as well buy an EM instead. You'll get less house balls. The bling isn't worth the decrease in playability.

You talking about the super band post rubbers are the transparent ones? There is a big difference. My transparent plays the same as white. Super bands are more bouncy. All my house balls come from the dang metal in lane divider. I hate that thing!

#1500 5 years ago
Quoted from JC_Pins:

So, it seems best to avoid starting Seek and Destroy if you want to get to all the CIU modes.

Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

I certainly do not TRY to shoot for SnD since 1.5 code arrived, but instead do what Phishrace above suggested where you lock in a few lanes (cross and right ramp being the top 2 for me) and that's what you focus on.

This is why I would like to see them change what happens after SND is completed. They could make it so you got a victory lap of some sort that gave you extra CIU progress (maybe double items) for the first of each shot after SNDs completion. On the Premium & LE they could signify it with a different color on the spider inserts if they wanted (like they do after the CIU as Purpledrilmonkey pointed out).

As it stands I just always feel disappointed to have to start working on the inserts over again after SND is over. If there was some perk towards CIUs afterwards it would be a little easier to take, and more worthwhile to play SND rather than avoid it. Its nice that it stacks with anything but the point value isn't really enough to justify slowing CIU progress.

The truth is I can't help but want to start SND when I get close, I just wish there wasn't such a downside to it.

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