(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Graysonsdad
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There are 16854 posts in this topic. You are on page 286 of 338.
#14251 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

I was disappointed at first when the lights did not work but then I swapped the wires and it works. I used standard bayonet sockets with a flex bulb led in the middle of the switch slot. Wired this to each of the insert lights. I have a Met Prem, btw.

And you soldered to the tabs on each board, right?

Nah, I just went down and triple checked, just so I know I'm not crazy. Switched wires back and forth and tried multiple bulbs. Do you have a metal backbox led run premium?

#14252 1 year ago

Extra balls- I am trying to figure out why I am getting extra balls so early in each game. I checked my settings and it says extra ball awarded after 5 hits to the captive ball (coffin) it is on standard default setting. So I checked the wiki tonight and it says it should be 15 hits to the captive ball. My game is nib running the 1.70 code?

#14253 1 year ago
Quoted from Sixmillion:

Extra balls- I am trying to figure out why I am getting extra balls so early in each game. I checked my settings and it says extra ball awarded after 5 hits to the captive ball (coffin) it is on standard default setting. So I checked the wiki tonight and it says it should be 15 hits to the captive ball. My game is nib running the 1.70 code?

Default is 25. Adjust it until it says factory. But I’m pretty sure it’s 25. There’s one option that’s auto I think. That auto adjusts if you’re getting it too often.

#14254 1 year ago

I might have to up that in mine. It does seem too easy.

#14255 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Default is 25. Adjust it until it says factory. But I’m pretty sure it’s 25. There’s one option that’s auto I think. That auto adjusts if you’re getting it too often.

I thought that the default was 13

defaults for locking coffin balls for the first coffin multi-ball are: 1st ball - 5 hits, 2nd ball - 10 more hits, 3rd ball (and start of multi-ball) - 10 more hits
I believe for subsequent locks, it's 10, 15 and 15

note: this on a premium/LE and may differ from the pro since you still have to still have to get the ball captured

#14256 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I thought that the default was 13
defaults for locking coffin balls for the first coffin multi-ball are: 1st ball - 5 hits, 2nd ball - 10 more hits, 3rd ball (and start of multi-ball) - 10 more hits
I believe for subsequent locks, it's 10, 15 and 15
note: this on a premium/LE and may differ from the pro since you still have to still have to get the ball captured

I will have to look at mine, but I recently went through and changed every feature setting to default and I can’t rememebr the last time I lit EB at the coffin with less than 25 hits.

Edit: we’re talking about lighting EB, not locks.

#14257 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I will have to look at mine, but I recently went through and changed every feature setting to default and I can’t rememebr the last time I lit EB at the coffin with less than 25 hits.
Edit: we’re talking about lighting EB, not locks.

correct. from the pinball wiki rules page for 1.51
"Hit captive ball 15 times (+/- depending on settings) to lite Extra Ball at scoop. Another extra ball is awarded for every 100 hits to the captive ball. Shoot scoop to collect"

#14258 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

correct. from the pinball wiki rules page for 1.51
"Hit captive ball 15 times (+/- depending on settings) to lite Extra Ball at scoop. Another extra ball is awarded for every 100 hits to the captive ball. Shoot scoop to collect"

Interesting. I’ll check mine tonight and report back. Maybe I’m miss remembering. Hopefully I’m running 25 and I need to back it off to 15 to make it default. This game is pretty effing hard to get to end of the line.

#14259 1 year ago

Game Feature Adjustment #21 - Captive ball first EB can be set to Auto, which will automatically raise the difficulty when an EB is awarded.

#14260 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

And you soldered to the tabs on each board, right?
Nah, I just went down and triple checked, just so I know I'm not crazy. Switched wires back and forth and tried multiple bulbs. Do you have a metal backbox led run premium?

Soldered to the pads on each board. Met Prem with metal backbox. I'll see about snapping a pic.

#14261 1 year ago

arrived today
991ED533-7F41-4D40-BC3C-CDF0DAF344D0 (resized).jpeg
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#14262 1 year ago

Default is auto on the pro current code for coffin EB

D7B131BB-DD24-44C9-871B-4FFF6EC99C9E (resized).jpeg

Switching mine to 15 so that It stops increasing. Haha. Need to know when to expect it if I’m ever gonna make end of line.

#14263 1 year ago

I just checked and it's the same on my premium (1.70) code

#14264 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Default is auto on the pro current code for coffin EB
[quoted image]
Switching mine to 15 so that It stops increasing. Haha. Need to know when to expect it if I’m ever gonna make end of line.

Yes I just checked mine also and it was defaulted to auto. I just set mine to 15.

#14265 1 year ago

Is there a separate adjustment for the back box speakers vs. the under cabinet speaker? My back box speakers are quite low compared to the under cabinet speaker. Sort of like in your car you can have the front speakers louder than the rear speakers or vice versa.

#14266 1 year ago
Quoted from Sixmillion:

Is there a separate adjustment for the back box speakers vs. the under cabinet speaker? My back box speakers are quite low compared to the under cabinet speaker. Sort of like in your car you can have the front speakers louder than the rear speakers or vice versa.

Not unless you have aftermarket speakers with an adjustable crossover. SAM games are mono. The new SPIKE games have 2.1 sound which means there is a whole separate adjustable channel for the cabinet speaker in the menus.

#14267 1 year ago

I am trying to figure out why the ball is "bouncing" back into the trough causing 2 balls ejected into the shooter lane. At first I thought it was magnetism but it seems it is the force of the ball hitting the wood with extreme force and bouncing back into the trough and because another ball is already in the trough 2 balls are coming out. Apparently if I change the coil power it affects all coils? It seems there is something needed against the wood in the exact area where the ball hits against to "dampen" the blow to prevent the extreme force of ball hitting You would think this problem would have been ironed out at this stage of the run of Metallica machines.

#14268 1 year ago
Quoted from Sixmillion:

I am trying to figure out why the ball is "bouncing" back into the trough causing 2 balls ejected into the shooter lane. At first I thought it was magnetism but it seems it is the force of the ball hitting the wood with extreme force and bouncing back into the trough and because another ball is already in the trough 2 balls are coming out. Apparently if I change the coil power it affects all coils? It seems there is something needed against the wood in the exact area where the ball hits against to "dampen" the blow to prevent the extreme force of ball hitting You would think this problem would have been ironed out at this stage of the run of Metallica machines.

Get the metal wall guard that pinball life sells. The MET I have has this and I haven’t seen this happen once.

#14269 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Get the metal wall guard that pinball life sells. The MET I have has this and I haven’t seen this happen once.

This.
My met did a bit of the same at first. I adjusted the ball eject a hair and it improved quite a bit. Installing the right wall rail guard finished off the job. Never happens anymore. Dont wast you money on the rest of the shooter lane protection though. I'm removing mine this weekend. No matter how many times I adjust them, they always affect the shooter lane in a way I dislike.

#14270 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Get the metal wall guard that pinball life sells. The MET I have has this and I haven’t seen this happen once.

Chuckwurt did it happen before you got the metal wall guard?

#14271 1 year ago
Quoted from Sixmillion:

Chuckwurt did it happen before you got the metal wall guard?

Not sure. You want it anyway. Protects the wood from getting all banged up.

19
#14272 1 year ago

Made this the other day for the coffin captive ball, looks pretty sweet I'd say on a pro! Just if anyone is looking for ideas

cf.jpg

#14273 1 year ago
Quoted from libtech:

Made this the other day for the coffin captive ball, looks pretty sweet I'd say on a pro! Just if anyone is looking for ideas
[quoted image]

That's sweet man, great job!!!

#14274 1 year ago
Quoted from libtech:

Made this the other day for the coffin captive ball, looks pretty sweet I'd say on a pro! Just if anyone is looking for ideas
[quoted image]

Like it. Doesn’t look out of place next to the snake.

#14275 1 year ago

That's awesome! I normally don't care for a lot of stuck on stuff but that looks right at home there. Looks factory. It would be even better if it had something to tie into the flasher it covers up. How does it mount?

#14276 1 year ago

Thanks! Yes I agree, I'm thinking on how to I could put a flasher in it and make it look good. It just mounts using mounting tape, I prefer not to drill holes in plastics etc if I can.

#14277 1 year ago

You could could out the 'M' and have a translucent red plastic piece to fill it in similar to the M's on the ramps. That would probably be difficult but would be perfect.

#14278 1 year ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Like it. Doesn’t look out of place next to the snake.

What snake. I just see a turtle in that picture

Mod looks great. You really need some fangs next though!

#14279 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

What snake. I just see a turtle in that picture
Mod looks great. You really need some fangs next though!

Touché

#14280 1 year ago

Repositioned the lit up valve caps to have a better look. Show now more clear the status of the lit inlane inserts.

What a belt buckle and a couple of valve caps and two leds can do

08403D0D-B5E6-49F0-AC9B-0821AB747093 (resized).jpeg
#14281 1 year ago

I feel like I remember seeing this topic on this thread last month but any advice would be great.
I finally installed my power blades and they look amazing but...
Im registering sparky hits for no reason. If I turn off the power blades it's fine. Turn it back on mid game? Boom, sparky is lit up in no time. Any advice from the other poster that was on here with that problem?

#14282 1 year ago

Went to check what LEDs I need to change on my Metallica and noticed this blue wire hanging. It's for the under cab lighting. Can’t find where it goes to. Anyone know? I know it connects to a flasher. Unit has 5 wires. Black/common, Red/coffin flasher, Green/snake flasher, white/Sparky flasher and blue??? Thinking Cemetery flasher????

met (resized).jpg
#14283 1 year ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I feel like I remember seeing this topic on this thread last month but any advice would be great.
I finally installed my power blades and they look amazing but...
Im registering sparky hits for no reason. If I turn off the power blades it's fine. Turn it back on mid game? Boom, sparky is lit up in no time. Any advice from the other poster that was on here with that problem?

I was reading a similar post from someone that hooked up the Sparky helmet wire and was getting the same issue. Claimed it was a defective part and was sending it back.

#14284 1 year ago

I'm having the issue where the GI lighting and the spider inserts go out randomly (again). some times they come back on on their own, but other times a good slap save smack to the side of the cabinet brings them back. I could have sworn that this was related to the ethernet type cable running from the head to the underside of the cabinet, but I checked again and that doesn't appear to be the case.

has anyone else experienced this? and if so, what did you do to eliminate the issue?

#14285 1 year ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

I was reading a similar post from someone that hooked up the Sparky helmet wire and was getting the same issue. Claimed it was a defective part and was sending it back.

Joe is shipping me a replacement box. Good customer service at pingraffix

#14286 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I'm having the issue where the GI lighting and the spider inserts go out randomly (again). some times they come back on on their own, but other times a good slap save smack to the side of the cabinet brings them back. I could have sworn that this was related to the ethernet type cable running from the head to the underside of the cabinet, but I checked again and that doesn't appear to be the case.
has anyone else experienced this? and if so, what did you do to eliminate the issue?

Quoted from WJxxxx:

I had the same problem with my GI, strobing, completely off, weird colours.
I thought it was the data cable as well, because every time I reseated it the GI worked fine.
Turns out it was the 3pin connector right next to it(as stated above) which was the problem. It just so happened that as I was reseating the data cable I must have touched the 3pin and knocked it right.
The connector just needs reflowing to the board, as there is likely a dry joint.

There's your problem, and solution.

#14287 1 year ago

thank you. I'll give that a try this evening

#14288 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

thank you. I'll give that a try this evening

Or the connector may be heat damaged and need replacing. There's been a few of us with this happening lately.

Rob

#14289 1 year ago

Best mod ever (and no, not talking about the color/smart dmd)

IMG_20181006_153146 (resized).jpg
#14290 1 year ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Best mod ever (and no, not talking about the color/smart dmd)
[quoted image]

What ARE you talking about?

#14291 1 year ago

I love the black T-molding on the head.

#14292 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I love the black T-molding on the head.

Winner winner! Hate the chrome. I get why they did it, but black just looks better to me. $15 gets you plenty of black t-molding to do the job, and it's easily reversible.

#14293 1 year ago

Visited a dollar store today and saw this Halloween gimmick.

So made myself a 3 USD topper

121003F9-90D8-42C7-989D-9220C88EDF29 (resized).jpeg3F14032D-0DCC-4042-AD01-8D99097CBF3E (resized).jpeg6F16848D-39C0-449F-AD1C-B9972E5848C7 (resized).jpegA92B9A3E-210F-4757-8FC9-252C50A5C3D9 (resized).jpeg
#14294 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Visited a dollar store today and saw this Halloween gimmick.
So made myself a 3 USD topper
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What the heck does that have to do with a Metallica themed pinball ?! I don't get it

#14295 1 year ago
Quoted from Dee-Bow:

What the heck does that have to do with a Metallica themed pinball ?! I don't get it

Gravestones are in the game... at least I believe they are on the UK version rather than the crosses.

#14296 1 year ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Winner winner! Hate the chrome. I get why they did it, but black just looks better to me. $15 gets you plenty of black t-molding to do the job, and it's easily reversible.

Damn it. I changed my GB molding out to green and never really thought about met. Now that I see it in black, I'm not sure I can look at cheap chrome anymore!

#14297 1 year ago
#14298 1 year ago

Gotta say that black t-molding looks pretty good since all the other trim is black. I never worked with t-molding. Figure it is easy but what do you need to do the job?

#14299 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Gotta say that black t-molding looks pretty good since all the other trim is black. I never worked with t-molding. Figure it is easy but what do you need to do the job?

It is super easy. Just need a razor knife. There are u tube videos showing how to notch the back where the cabinet curves, so that it lies flat instead of bunching up. I made a big deal out of it when I did GB and it still took maybe 15 minutes

#14300 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Gotta say that black t-molding looks pretty good since all the other trim is black. I never worked with t-molding. Figure it is easy but what do you need to do the job?

When you take the old trim off run a flat blade screw driver in the slot to clean it out. Then when you start to put the new molding in you should only need to slide your thumb or palm of your hand to slide along it to press it in. If you need to, use a block of wood and a rubber hammer and gently tap it in as you put it in.

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