I swapped a few around. "One" is way too slow for my taste, replaced it with The Four Horsemen (which was originally supposed to be in the game for Blackened mode). A few other minor edits such as "I Disappear" at a key point in the song during the end game sequence, and Whiskey in the Jar if you get to enter your initials.

How difficult are we talking? I'm good with electrical, not so much with computers.

Also I'm inclined to agree on ONE but I just love when it finally gets where it's going.....eventually

You will need to download Pinball Browser, then donate to get the full features unlocked. Then obtain the songs you want to replace in digital format (usually wav or mp3). The hard part is editing the songs to get them to start or end where you want. You can simply replace one song with another which works in some cases, but for more advanced edits like end-of-game music or high score entry music it will take some trial and error to get it just right. I'm pretty good with computers and don't consider it hard, just time consuming. I also had to do some volume equalization which required updating the game, listening through the actual game speakers, and making adjustments and re-updates until it sounded right with respect to the other songs.

It's not part of my current song list, but I used to have both "Hit the Lights" and "Whiplash" edited into the same song slot to replace "One." Both of those songs are a little over 4 minutes, so too short for any of the the song slots, but "One" is 7:24 minutes, so I combined them into that slot and did a little fade out on "Whiplash."

Sorry for the confusion, I kind of took it off topic and just putting it out there. Good idea on the guitar picks.

I need to do this. Whiplash is my fave Met song.

So I took apart the shooter rod and it was already as far to the left as possible. After a bit of experimenting a single well placed washer has everything perfect. Still shouldnt have to Jimmy rig thing on a brand new pin though

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First mods to my new MET pro.
-Colour coded fuel gauge
-Blue lights for Electric switches (felt there was enough white going on with the crosses and picks)
-just 2 purple accent g.i. bulbs
-Snake fangs/tongue
- Sparky E.L. helmet wiring.
So much fun.

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Does anyone have a link to the guy making the cross inserts? The little plastic things to direct the light at the crosses only instead of white rectangles. Thanks you.

Stern should really be chasing that up for you.. Awesome game, welcome to the club!

Not a mod but some little pop vinyl guys were cheap and add a little something

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https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1087-wcp/00873-cross-pattern-light-blocking-insert-metallica-pro-premium-le

Nice fix! Doing this to my TAF and TZ right now.

Thanks. I contacted him as they are currently out of stock. Fingers crossed. Ew accidental pun

Snake ate my bulb. Don't know how it got all the way down there. I don't know how to get it out without yaki g the whole mech off, which I really don't want to do. Snake is working fine.

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Would be nice to be able to buy the file from him and print it yourself... no reason for this to be ‘out of stock’ when you can take it down to local library and have it printed.

I just finished replacing most of my factory rubbers with titans, but apparently I missed something up... After lifting and re-seating the playfield (to adjust the back post diverter), I started a game only to have my flippers stop working shortly after starting sparky multiball. I tried starting another game, but no game would start.

Turns out, the F10 fuse blew out, causing the flippers and ball eject to stop working. I was hoping it'd be an easy fix, so I replaced the fuse with the free one that Stern included in their "goodie bag," but it didn't take long for it to blow out again (and I didn't start a multiball this time). Now, all I get is a message saying "Right Eject Device Malfunction" and no game will start because the ball eject coil isn't receiving power.

Does anyone have any ideas on how I might be able to fix this problem before I start going broke on fuses? I'll check if the wires around the ball eject coil are seated properly, but would a loose wire really cause a fuse to blow out?

Stuff like this is the reason i hate snakes!

A loose connector probably won't but any loose wire could. It could touch something else inside the machine and cause a short circuit. Check if you haven't accidentally exposed some wiring or maybe bended something so that it touches other metallic parts.

While you're busy on your OCD (I feel you man) mattosborn creates nice 3D printed plates so that all your CIU lights line up nicely! I bought one from him and am super happy with the result.

Wrong thread

This may sound stupid but that looks very much like the snake eject mod that someone put on the game.

I have a MET Pro and just starting to have an issue once in awhile where the ball gets stuck behind Sparky during a loop shot. The post is down at the time but if the shot is a bit weak it stops there. Any suggestions or solutions. I still have the original post not the steel replacement.

Is the post level with the PF when down? Sounds like it's slightly below the PF so the ball hangs in the whole. I find it best to have the post just a mm or two above the PF.

There is a green light mounted under the playfield that lights up the snake.

Thx for the feedback- I will check that out and see if I need to make a slight adjustment. It has only been an issue the past couple weeks (have had my MET for 1-1/2 years this is first issue) so maybe something has come loose on the underside of the post bracket. Awesome game love it!!

Hi folks,

Any suggestions as to why on occasions I get ball hang ups going into the coffin hole?

This happens maybe once every 10 games, the game takes the ball down but it does not roll into the position it should, rather it gets stuck so I have to remove the glass and press down the magnet and then try to hook the ball and persuade it to go into the position it should be in.
Gets stuck sort of upper-left.

Its quite annoying.

Check to make sure your balls aren't magnetized. That's exactly what mine does when they do.

If memory serves me correctly. That post sits on a rubber in the mechanism. Over time it could lose some of it's bounce or height causing the post to sink ever so slightly. It's an easy adjustment though so hopefully that's all it is.

Wrap tape around your finger tip, but with sticky side out. Then stick your finger in the snake mouth.

Or fish a long piece of tape into the mouth and press it against the bulb. Pull tape out along with bulb.

Rob

I don't think that is going to work, but I will give it a try. It looks like it's sitting underneath some metal that won't let it come out that way.

I think he did actually, but I didn't save the link. Hopefully he chimes back in cause I looked for it and can't find it.

Where would I get the mantis style scoop protector? I have the cliffy and I think it makes the scoop shot a little harder.

https://mantispinball.com/product/metallica-protector/

Even played GoT and had Winter Is Coming hurry up? Or escape Boba Fett on SW? That's exactly what the GI is now doing on my MeT Premium. Now that I have some time I will check for taught wiring/connectors and what else?

Rob

From the looks of it, the mantis protector really doesn’t protect the play field right at the scoop that much does it? How could this be better than the cliffy?

It does protect the playfield edge. The ball rolls over the mantis edge instead of the PF. I use the cliffy and like it, but I would have no hesitation using a Mantis either. They have different approaches to protection, both are great options.

I have the "Whiplash/Hit the Lights" file in my dropbox. It's edited down to 7:24 to fit in the "One" slot. If either of you want it (or anyone else) send me a pm for the link. I don't know how long I'll leave it in there, but it will be there as long as I have room.

I also have "Shortest Straw" in the dropbox, which is a perfect replacement for "Unforgiven."

I'm trying to level this game properly but it seems like I'm getting some SMOKERS off the targets in this game they fire super fast back. I'm trying different color rubbers too but has anyone else faced a similar challenge? If I change the slope it does help but then the ball falls way too floaty. Suggestions?

Added over 6 years ago: EDIT - it was just leveling - I needed to raise it more. All good.

Lost a switch column last night. If anyone has any ideas on how to fix please let me know. Link to thread below.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-sam-whole-switch-column-went-out

I second this....have had the Mantis protector on my Premium and no wear on the scoop....Has held up so far just fine.

When it comes to scoop protection, mantis style is the way to go IMO. All mounted underneath, nothing sticks to playfield, and provides great protection.

I like the Mantis style on this scoop, as well, but it's not all wine and roses. I'm not home to take a pic, but the beveled edge of the right side is getting some wear from the ball entering, not exiting. The front edge still looks perfect.

The pic below is not my game. It is just to show reference to the edge I'm talking about.

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Agree on Mantis. May get some very minor wear at the very edge but it's not going to blow out or dent up. I'll honestly take some minor scuffing over the look of the cliffy their. The cliffy the previous owner put on my game actually put a small edge in the clear their. So, it's a trade off. I love the cliffy's for scoop with some wear already though.

It’s my first time installing a Mod,
I have the “Snake mouth LED, feed the snake”
From Mezel mods. I have the game unplugged
Glass off , play field lifted, found the snake assembly, located the nut to remove and reinstall.
1)I can’t figure out how the LED gets in the mouth? My underside of snake mouth doesn’t have space for it to fit inside the mouth. And looks different then Mezel pictures.
2) connecting the wires ? What wires do I connect, how do I connect them and do I then reconnect the original wire to the new connector? What is a IDC ?

This is what Mezel mods web page says
“For the Pro, attach the bracket as shown in the photo by removing existing nut and reattaching nut. Disconnect IDC Feed the Snake connection as shown, then plug in the Feed the Snake IDC.”
4 pics of my MET pro , one pic of Mezel instructions
Thanks for any help Guys.

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Rob, I had the same issue with the flickering GI. I turned down the GI intensity (feature menu #136) and never had the issue again. Mine is at 75. Higher may work but I'm happy there. Give it a try.

IDC stands for insulation displacement connector. The instructions are just talking about the connector that joins the light above the PF to the wiring below the PF. All you are doing is piggybacking off that connector. Undo connector, connect Mezel connector into one end of stern connector and connect other end of stern connector into the other end of the Mezel mod. I haven’t installed this mod but I’m pretty sure is does not go inside the jaw, it is only to illuminate around the jaw. So pop the PF back down check out if you like it if not move the mod around to the best place.

Thanks for your help , I got the wireing working .
Does the under side of the snake have a option with a cut in it for the LED.
This is the 2 pics I see online. The LED looks like it fit inside the jaw
Thanks for ur help

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Disconnect and reconnect the data cable both at the backbox and where it goes under the playfield. It looks like a grey ethernet cable. This will solve your problem either for awhile or for good depends on whether the connection is firm or not.

Ktm450 it worked !! Thanks ,
Brappp