What format is the file on your flash drive? What version of boot rom is installed on the MPU? (sticker on the chip should show version)

Might try a different memory stick. Heard stories of games being picky about brand.

Isn't there a different Pro and Premium code? You may have downloaded the Premium code.

Games are also picky about the size of the memory stick. I think it needs to be an 8GB flash drive.

thanks for the feedback/advice. I'll need to check the various suggestions tonight. I do know that the format is fat32 and that the code I downloaded was for the Pro but it is probably worth downloading again just to make sure (I've done it twice so far with the same results, so maybe the third time is a charm, especially if I made a mistake the previous times). Additionally, I'll try a different memory stick (at least 8GB, properly formatted).

Will report back later. Thanks again.
Conrad.

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Hmmm, just got a message from Stern (a reply to my support inquiry) and they are suggesting that it may be an issue with the CPU and that I should contact my distributor to have the board sent in for repair.

This was a game I picked up this past year (used) and I have no idea who the original distributor was. I'll try a few of the earlier suggestions first before figuring out the logistics of getting the board to Stern.

My game was 95 percent rejects no matter plastic or metal plunger. I bent the bracket back a bit and now it catches all the balls.

Had this on SMVE a while back. Grabbed a new thumb drive, formatted it with a 3rd party utility (might have been Sandisk), and worked for me.

This is a very interesting update. At this point I think the rejections can be helped by a combination of replacing the post with a metal one and bending the coil bracket if needed. My game was the same as yours - 95% rejection even with the metal post until I bent the bracket and changed the spot the ball hit on.

And I'm in the club.....

So much fun

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What do you mean by bending? Are you talking about making the post come up at a slight angle, ?

Yes, bending the bracket under the playfield. If you raise the playfield and bend the post coil bracket downward a little it will make the post move slightly towards the flippers. Bending it the other way will make it move up towards the orbit guide rail. The theory is that the ball is hitting dead center and bouncing back. If you can get it to hit off center it will not bounce back as much or at all. This is a tiny difference from game to game. As for coming up at an angle, who knows how it comes from the factory, it could already be at an angle and just needs to be straightened!

One other note is that after bending the bracket it will affect the height of the post when down. You will have to re-adjust it to make it flush again with the playfield again and not a ball trap. There is a screw and lock nut on the bottom of the post that make this easy.

Hey guys, I've put about 50 games on my new Met, but have now started noticing the left flipper starts to get week after 5-10 mins play. I will contact my distro on monday, but till then, any thoughts?

Take the glass off and make sure there is a little up and down play in the flipper. If not it will rub down below the playfield and heat up the coil. It should be able to move up and down a few millimeters.

And you also should check that its not dragging on the top of the playfield. Should have a credit card thicknes gap.

With the game off does it seem to move as freely as the left flipper?

Thanks for the input guys. I didnt want to check last night, as i was a few beers deep. Looks like they may have forgotten a coil sleeve in the left coil. It sounds noisey, metal on metal sound, and operation is not as smooth. I'm not going to take coil out to check, as it's only the second day out of the box, and I don't want to void the warranty, but it looks like there is no sleeve in there

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The other coil, this one works great

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Yup no sleeve. Easy fix.

Far out, I’m getting a NIB in a few weeks, if that passed Sterns quality control it’s a bit disconcerting.

No coil sleeve? That's a new one.

Ok. Had to find out what's wrong and had a look. There was a sleeve in there, but it is a little short. There was a bit of metal filings around the coil stop. Iput a old sleeve from a jurassic park I used to have in and its the exact right size, it's Flippin good for now

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Good work, you won't have any problems now. Sure looked like there was no sleeve in there.

Installed creeping death side blades, snake fangs and tongue, and extended sparky protector.cut some mylar for sparky magnet. Distro has a new sleeve and plunger on the way for me...nice.

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My left sparky spotlight bulb came out. I cannot find the f'ing thing anywhere.

check the scoop for the mystery shot, in the snake vuk, behind the captured ball, underneath any playfield plastics, behind sparky, etc...

they tend to ricochet pretty wild sometime when they pop out

Also check the bottom of the cabinet... it could've worked its way down the PF, into and through the ball trough and dropping in or around the coin box.

So, having owned a METLE since 2013 and then a pro LED since '16, last night was the closest I've been to reaching EOTL.

I have my game set for 2 EB max. When I was ready to start my second EB (third ball overall), I had already finished all four CIU modes. All I needed to do was collect the items for EOTL. During this entire game, I never started S&D, and I had all inserts lit for collection except the left ramp. Several times I had to time out the hurry up to prevent S&D from starting. I got in and out of CIU's as quickly as possible, and I tried not to start MB's if I already had a CIU lit.

This was an amazing ball 1 with the 2 EB's. Then an epic fail. Keep in mind that I wasn't trying for a high score. I was trying to reach EOTL, but the pic below shows how bad I failed on ball 2 and ball 3 (balls 4 and 5, respectively).

The score in the upper left is before starting my second EB. Upper right is before starting ball 2. Lower left is before starting ball 3. Lower right is final score.

Ugggghh!

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Oh man, that sucks... I've been there - well, not THAT good, but in the boat of "amazing first ball - 150M points" only to finish like 170M or so... /sigh

Decided to powdercoat my wireform so that it looks like the snakes tail. It looks pretty good. Contact me if your interested

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Very nice! Was thinking about doing this as well. Unfortunately you don’t live nearby so shipping back and forth is too expensive.

Is that ramp painted green and yellow, or are lights shining on it?

Pinstadium light reflection on ramps

Wow, that's a really cool unintentional effect!

Alright guys, If you were to list your huo pro in great shape with the lightshow mod and spinners running through the mod, what price would you ask? I'm clueless on what one goes for with the added lightshow.

Normally I would say that mod's don't really add up to the price since not everybody will be a fan. But I think the lightshow would be an exception since it actually an upgrade to the premium version. So add the costs of the upgrade to the price. (But some collectors won't like the addition of the spinners since you modified the playfield and plastics to make them fit)

I recently bought a 1,5 years "old" Pro HUO LED version stock for about $ 1000,- less then a new one. But prices of new machines are much higher here then in the US, especially if you factor in currency conversion.

Led or regular? Not that is matters too much.

$4700-$4800?

I think Stern just moved Street prices on MET and non LCD games up to $5399?? This is high for nonLCDs game IMHO. Adding a color dmd on them is $$

Pinside lists the average price between $4620 - $5380. I'd assume that is without the Total Lightshow. I'd have to think you'd get north of $5K for a nice HUO with the lightshow on it. Like Koos said though, mod's can be a tough sell as potential buyers will likely not value them the same as you would. If you're not happy with what people are offering you could remove the modes and sell them separately.

Thanks guys. I'm potentially just going to hang onto it anyway just wondering if anyone moved one with those upgrades.

Nice work !

I also created a do it yourself video on how to do this with spray media if anyones interested.

_joe

It has been a little better than an a year and half... how has it held up? Any idea how many plays you have on it?

The clear coat does a nice job of sealing the paint and texture..so really held up well. I did see one or two little chips after I first installed but that was just excess paint that I missed really.

Did I miss an announcement? Is there a new run of premies in the pipeline???

https://gameexchange.biz/products/deposit-only-metallica-premium-monsters

Edit: oh. The dates. Right. Seems like someone really oughta update their webpage.

I used a little bit of lock-tite on the two spotlights and posts to make sure they don't move around any more.

But I stil have issues with the LED's popping out. Every 20 something games, one of the LED bulbs fly across the playfield!
Any tips on how to fix them more firmly?

I'm done searching for them every time. I'm almost considering a tiny dab of hot glue...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights

Anyone else ever have to replace the little Cliffy-style protector in front of the snake? Mine has raised up slightly above the playfield and has become a ball trap at times. It looks like the newton ball (this is a pro) and the left post on the left ramp would have to be removed to take it out. I wonder if it's possible to bend it back to being straight, or if I'm going to go to the trouble to take it out, maybe I should just replace it. Anyone happen to know the part number of that piece offhand?

What a coincidence that this was posted 5 days ago. Will try this for sure. Thanks!

I'll try that.....if I can ever find the bulb that popped out.....grrrrrrr.

I've had my nib Met pro for 2 days. There were a couple small issues to resolve but it's great. My only problem at the moment in the ball launch. I'm not sure yet exactly what is wrong but I'm 90% sure it has to do with the first piece of metal the ball touches down the shooter lane. The ball rarely wants to clear the lane and skill shot area smoothly. Most of the time the ball just jostles around on the way up the launch and either end up in the pops or doesn't keep much speed going for the super skill. This seriously effects gameplay. Occasionally on launch the ball will actually jump and get stuck above the launch area in the underside of the wires from the right ramp. This means taking the glass off every 30 games or so.
If this were an older pin my first thought is to take the metal piece out, grind the front lips down more and replace it. This is like a new car to me though. I shouldn't have to and don't really want to have to Jimmy fix things.
Any way long story I know.
I'm looking for any advice from anyone who has had the same issues. Are there simply some adjustments I could be tweaking to get it smoother? Thanks
Ps. Could some tell me which plastic post to metal post everyone keeps mentioning in this thread? I can't the details in this thread. It is constantly referred to as "that post" lol.
Pss. Can't wait for all my bells and whistles to arrive.

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Also if someone could send me a link to somewhere that sells ball jump guards, specifically the extended plastic protector at Sparkys feet please. Major ball jump area.