(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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#13301 1 year ago

The shaker has two weights spinning on a shaft. You change the angle of the two adjust how hard it shakes.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-adjust-a-shaker-motor-on-tftc-tutorial

#13302 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

And out of curiosity, what is BFTK and/or RTU out of 10?

I have not put a ton of time on MM but BFTK seems to be quite similar to RTU. For difficulty, I would say RTU is only about a 6 or 7, WITH EB's turned on. With no EB's, I have yet to reach RTU. With EB's, I've done it probably 20 times. I came very close to getting it twice in a single game.

#13303 1 year ago

Man i hate how eveything in pinball is abbreviated, I couldn't follow any of that.

#13304 1 year ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Correct.
And just accept that it fixes it. It does. There’s a lot of history on it.

Actually if anything it made my game worse. There is also history on that! I have seen others post the same. One thing for sure is that the ball is supposed to stop and drop into the bumpers and not bounce back down to the left. Fortunately Stern has since gone back to controlled gates for the orbits. This requires a lot more mechanics (two gates and two coils vs one coil with a plunger) but it works a lot better. Star Wars and GOTG both have gates instead of the post.

#13305 1 year ago

Price Check Request: Routed MOPLE

Can I trouble you (collectively) for some market advice?

What is a fair sum to pay for the following pin, in your estimation, given today's market:

MOPLE, presently in someone's home collection but routed (5000 paid credits) prior to that.

PF is nice, with just the slightest wear on the perimeter of the Cliffy-less Mystery scoop and around the Sparky magnet. Sparky and Gravemarker magnets show ample dimpling, while the hammer magnet looks much better. PF overall shows average dimpling and no wear areas, including in/outlanes. Colors seem bright/vivid. Cabinet is nice, with perhaps a little fade, but few if any scratches. Coin door has minimal scratches. Backglass is nice, along with the head decals and the silver edging. The only mods are speaker lights and under-cab lights. DMD is the monochrome original. Boards are fine/original and gameplay is fine (as far as I'm told).

I think it looks sharp, but "routed" is such a dirty word to so many collectors. I worry that I will struggle to sell it later without taking a bath when I disclose its history on location, etc. Indeed at least a few Pinsiders I've run this past have counseled me to "stay away!"

Any/all advice would be most appreciated!

#13306 1 year ago
Quoted from John_I:

Actually if anything it made my game worse. There is also history on that! I have seen others post the same. One thing for sure is that the ball is supposed to stop and drop into the bumpers and not bounce back down to the left. Fortunately Stern has since gone back to controlled gates for the orbits. This requires a lot more mechanics (two gates and two coils vs one coil with a plunger) but it works a lot better. Star Wars and GOTG both have gates instead of the post.

I have a really hard time believing that since my game went from about 90% left orbit rejects with the plastic post to 0% rejects with the metal post from pinball life. Since i installed the metal post ive had maybe 2 rejects in 100 plus games. Thats not 0% but its so damn close to 0 that im just gonna call it 0%

#13307 1 year ago

I thought by changing the weight positions it makes it shake less violently.

#13308 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I have not put a ton of time on MM but BFTK seems to be quite similar to RTU. For difficulty, I would say RTU is only about a 6 or 7, WITH EB's turned on. With no EB's, I have yet to reach RTU. With EB's, I've done it probably 20 times. I came very close to getting it twice in a single game.

By EBs turned on, do you mean that video mode would count as an EB? Seems pretty impossible to finish without getting the EBs that the game is designed to hand out.

I came very close to Valinor tonight I think, so that's why I'm curious to know how tough EOTL is in comparison to other games.

#13309 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

Man i hate how eveything in pinball is abbreviated, I couldn't follow any of that.

Totally agree! I had to look one up as well.

I have not put a ton of time on MM but BFTK seems to be quite similar to RTU. For difficulty, I would say RTU is only about a 6 or 7, WITH EB's turned on. With no EB's, I have yet to reach RTU. With EB's, I've done it probably 20 times. I came very close to getting it twice in a single game.

They were talking about the difficulty of certain wizard modes.

Metallica - The End of the Line (EOTL)
Attack from Mars - Rule the Universe (RTU)
Medieval Madnesses- Battle for the King (BFTK)
Lord of the Rings - Valinor multiball

And EB’s are extra balls

#13310 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Is there a shaker control in the menu? (Premium)
Mine rattles the hell out of the game. Tried some cushion under it and tightened it down . Slight better but still annoying.
I'd like to.tone the shake down a bit.

Get one oft these. Allows you to adjust the power of the shaker.
amazon.com link »

#13311 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

I have a really hard time believing that since my game went from about 90% left orbit rejects with the plastic post to 0% rejects with the metal post from pinball life. Since i installed the metal post ive had maybe 2 rejects in 100 plus games. Thats not 0% but its so damn close to 0 that im just gonna call it 0%

This is literally a matter of millimeters with one game varying slightly from the next. Last night I decided to look into this a lot more closely. I realized a fast traveling ball on my game must be hitting perfectly on center of the post as it is coming around the orbit in order to bounce back 90% of the time even with the metal post installed. I decided that I could move the post slightly by bending the up post coil bracket a little. With the playfield vertical, I bent the bracket downward a few degrees. This had the effect of moving the post a little bit toward the front of the playfield (without any sort of rubbing because the metal plunger is significantly thinner than the hole in the playfield). Now the ball hits a little off center towards the back side of the post and doesn't seem to bounce directly back as much. I played a few quick games and 5 out of 6 fast left orbits didn't bounce back. Time will tell but it looks like the little change helped.

So here is my working theory. The metal plunger helps because it is not quite as bouncy and more importantly it is a little thinner diameter. Being thinner makes it less likely to get a dead-on hit that bounces straight back. Some games (like mine) come from the factory with a combination of the back rail geometry and the coil bracket position that puts the post in the exact center of the ball path. Anything that can be done to change the path of the ball can possibly help give an off-center hit on the post. Maybe even playfield incline?

#13312 1 year ago
Quoted from MrDucks:

Get one oft these. Allows you to adjust the power of the shaker.
amazon.com link »

The Coin Taker shakers are way too violent for my taste - even the standard version. I put a motor controller like the one linked above on my Metallica and it totally fixed the problem and let me adjust it to my own taste. This is a better method than padding or messing with the weights and is really simple to install. Now the game actually shakes instead of vibrating and rattling the backglass.

I at first tried to rotate the weights a little but found that the shaft has a huge flat spot for the set screw to hit that keeps the weight in place. Moving the weight would mean moving it a lot to avoid falling back into the same position because of the flat spot. At that point the set screw would be on the round part of the shaft and could possibly shift. Not sure how others are set up but it appears the Coin Taker was not designed to be adjust like that.

Edit: Here is a good thread that explains how to connect the controller:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-tame-cointakers-shaker-motor#post-3115019

#13313 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Price Check Request: Routed MOPLE
Can I trouble you (collectively) for some market advice?
What is a fair sum to pay for the following pin, in your estimation, given today's market:
MOPLE, presently in someone's home collection but routed (5000 paid credits) prior to that.
PF is nice, with just the slightest wear on the perimeter of the Cliffy-less Mystery scoop and around the Sparky magnet. Sparky and Gravemarker magnets show ample dimpling, while the hammer magnet looks much better. PF overall shows average dimpling and no wear areas, including in/outlanes. Colors seem bright/vivid. Cabinet is nice, with perhaps a little fade, but few if any scratches. Coin door has minimal scratches. Backglass is nice, along with the head decals and the silver edging. The only mods are speaker lights and under-cab lights. DMD is the monochrome original. Boards are fine/original and gameplay is fine (as far as I'm told).
I think it looks sharp, but "routed" is such a dirty word to so many collectors. I worry that I will struggle to sell it later without taking a bath when I disclose its history on location, etc. Indeed at least a few Pinsiders I've run this past have counseled me to "stay away!"
Any/all advice would be most appreciated!

You're never going to want to sell it, so resale isn't important.

#13314 1 year ago

I love the PWM motor controllers, but they will fry your Spike cabinet board, so use them only in SAM and older. Expensive lesson for me.

#13315 1 year ago
Quoted from ktm450:

I will be joining the club at the end of May, I ordered a game on the last container from Sterns current run coming into Australia. I would have loved a premium but there is no secondhand market over here for any Metallica pins other than overpriced LEs. So NIB pro it is, even after I add spinners and total lightshow I will still save over $2000AUD from what we get charged for a premium NIB. As much as the other toys are cool it’s hard to justify spending a further $2k on them anyway.
I just spend 12days scrolling through this entire thread on my iPhone in my spare time taking screenshots of mods and info I’m after. Man are my eyes sore
Can anyone with a LED Pro please tell me if this map of the incandescent pro uses the same bulb types, 44s & 555s, in the same location as the new LED Pro?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/an-improved-stern-metallica-pro-led-map-and-list
Thanks,
Matt.

What's an overpriced LE going for, asking for a friend!!!

#13316 1 year ago
Quoted from Roostking:

What's an overpriced LE going for, asking for a friend!!!

In Australia they came out here for $9250 NIB.
There are LEs for sale now up to $14000.
I did find one for $12000 but could not justify spending that much on a secondhand machine.

#13317 1 year ago

just installed Powerblades from pingraffix took my met to another level

#13318 1 year ago

Shameless plug of my MET PRO mium

Not a plug for my pinball skills by the way

#13319 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Price Check Request: Routed MOPLE
Can I trouble you (collectively) for some market advice?
What is a fair sum to pay for the following pin, in your estimation, given today's market:
MOPLE, presently in someone's home collection but routed (5000 paid credits) prior to that.
PF is nice, with just the slightest wear on the perimeter of the Cliffy-less Mystery scoop and around the Sparky magnet. Sparky and Gravemarker magnets show ample dimpling, while the hammer magnet looks much better. PF overall shows average dimpling and no wear areas, including in/outlanes. Colors seem bright/vivid. Cabinet is nice, with perhaps a little fade, but few if any scratches. Coin door has minimal scratches. Backglass is nice, along with the head decals and the silver edging. The only mods are speaker lights and under-cab lights. DMD is the monochrome original. Boards are fine/original and gameplay is fine (as far as I'm told).
I think it looks sharp, but "routed" is such a dirty word to so many collectors. I worry that I will struggle to sell it later without taking a bath when I disclose its history on location, etc. Indeed at least a few Pinsiders I've run this past have counseled me to "stay away!"
Any/all advice would be most appreciated!

Condition is the most important thing. I've seen HUO games with much worse issues than the game you are describing. Dimpling on magnets is not wear. It will happen after a couple games if you put in new magnets. Only the wood and art around the magnets should be of concern (same as the CIU scoop). Dimpling is a non-issue and normal unless it's excessive (deep craters). MOPLE was built before sterns's PF challenges so it should be fine.

Based off the MOD I'm going to "guess" around $7500-$8K. I have no clue if that is market these days anymore though. I just know that my MOPLE is in great shape with more desirable mods and I would price it at $8.5K if I went to sell it. I've been considering it a lot lately as I actually prefer the monster premium (artwork) and would rather have that version but I basically fell into a MOPLE thus why I have it vs the Monster premium.

#13320 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Condition is the most important thing. <snip>

Thanks a bunch, 85vette, for your helpful reply!

I'll PM you directly to respond properly.

#13321 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

I'm contemplating getting rid of my TWD to pick up a MET pro LED.
Wanted to hear from anyone who has owned or played enough of the two titles to make a comparison.
TWD just seems like such a ball drainer to me. You have the occasional epic game, but it's not a game that gives a lot of satisfaction just to step up to and play.

I had both in premium versions... Still own Met. The rare epic game on TWD was great but all the others were beyond frustrating. I have never seen EOTL but have hit two CIU modes in a game and felt like that was an accomplishment. I tend to feel satisfied when I get two multiballs in a single game.

#13322 1 year ago

Stern's Plans for MET Premium Production?

I'm just wondering if any of you are hearing rumblings/rumors at Stern that there will be a run of Premiums coming off the line this summer.

And will MET Pro wrap up at the same time?

If MET Premium will *not* have a run this summer, what is the likely interval of time before it becomes a Vault Edition? It's been out of production for two years, no? IM waited four years before being resurrected as a Vault, AC/DC even longer.

#13323 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Stern's Plans for MET Premium Production?
I'm just wondering if any of you are hearing rumblings/rumors at Stern that there will be a run of Premiums coming off the line this summer.
And will MET Pro wrap up at the same time?
If MET Premium will *not* have a run this summer, what is the likely interval of time before it becomes a Vault Edition? It's been out of production for two years, no? IM waited four years before being resurrected as a Vault, AC/DC even longer.

I would not count on there ever being a Met VE, or any future VE for that matter (including Tron which most agree is the next best chance for VE based on market price and demand). Met has not been out of production for 2 years. Mine is a late 2016 build and I think they were still making them in 2017.

#13324 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Stern's Plans for MET Premium Production?
I'm just wondering if any of you are hearing rumblings/rumors at Stern that there will be a run of Premiums coming off the line this summer.
And will MET Pro wrap up at the same time?
If MET Premium will *not* have a run this summer, what is the likely interval of time before it becomes a Vault Edition? It's been out of production for two years, no? IM waited four years before being resurrected as a Vault, AC/DC even longer.

Just buy that f@$&ing LE and don't look back.

#13325 1 year ago
Quoted from BillySastard:

Just buy that f@$&ing LE and don't look back.

AMEN!

#13326 1 year ago

Has anyone heard Stern stopping production MET Pro LED machines? I have had one on order for 6 weeks and I am being told another 4-6 now. I get that Iron Maiden is out, but I am worried I will never see the MET Pro I have on order.

#13327 1 year ago

9 weeks after placing my order, my Met pro is in the country, just clearing customs then shipped to my place next week...

#13328 1 year ago

Stern's website says soldout for premiums but in stock for pros. That seems to imply they are still planning to make more.

#13329 1 year ago

If you guys keep saying “MET LED” I’m gonna start calling mine a “MET wood”.

#13330 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

If you guys keep saying “MET LED” I’m gonna start calling mine a “MET wood”.

Sometimes I’m having a great game on my MET LED that’s so good, it gives me WOOD as well.

(Sorry guys couldn’t resist. )

#13331 1 year ago

I’m having a minor issue with my MET. When a new ball gets eject into the shooter lane, it very often bounces back from the wooden rail back into the trough. The auto launcher engages but there’s no ball there anymore. The machine automatically ejects a new ball but sometimes this happens three times in a row. Not a very big deal but I’d like to resolve this.

It seems that the ball trough eject coil is too powerful. Haven’t checked inside the settings menu if it’d possible to tune this down. Thought that was only possible on JJP machines.

#13332 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

I’m having a minor issue with my MET. When a new ball gets eject into the shooter lane, it very often bounces back from the wooden rail back into the trough. The auto launcher engages but there’s no ball there anymore. The machine automatically ejects a new ball but sometimes this happens three times in a row. Not a very big deal but I’d like to resolve this.
It seems that the ball trough eject coil is too powerful. Haven’t checked inside the settings menu if it’d possible to tune this down. Thought that was only possible on JJP machines.

Try bending the arm that ejects the ball, usually works on my WMS/Bally machines but not sure of the Stern setup.

#13333 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

I’m having a minor issue with my MET. When a new ball gets eject into the shooter lane, it very often bounces back from the wooden rail back into the trough. The auto launcher engages but there’s no ball there anymore. The machine automatically ejects a new ball but sometimes this happens three times in a row. Not a very big deal but I’d like to resolve this.
It seems that the ball trough eject coil is too powerful. Haven’t checked inside the settings menu if it’d possible to tune this down. Thought that was only possible on JJP machines.

There is general setting for coil strength ( soft normal hard). You can try this but it will be for all coils.

#13334 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

I had both in premium versions... Still own Met. The rare epic game on TWD was great but all the others were beyond frustrating. I have never seen EOTL but have hit two CIU modes in a game and felt like that was an accomplishment. I tend to feel satisfied when I get two multiballs in a single game.

There are several settings changes. Don’t accept the defaults if they are not fun for you. I’m a great player and have gotten EOTL once- but indeed the game, and all pinball, can be brutal. Change so it’s fun for you. Adjustments are way too often overlooked. Modern Stern Pinball is not set it and forget it. Don’t accept the programmers’ attempt to hit a sweet spot on earnings/challenge/amateur/casual/pro.

Blackened, Seek, multiple CIUs aren’t common for average player. Make them more common by fine tuning adjustments.

Outlanes and tilt bobs aren’t the only adjustments.

I’ve currently got mine setup very easy and enjoying getting thru most of the game nearly every time.

And yes, adjustments or not, this is still by far the best pinball machine ever.

-KG

#13335 1 year ago

Source for Chrome Wire-form Return Ramps?

I realize sources like Pinball Refinery offer these return ramps in alternate powder-coated colors, but does anyone offer them in chrome?

Thanks.

#13336 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

Yes. But not OVER the magnet core itself. Just the big ring around it. Go to Marco and they have the mylar rings for Iron Man which are a perfect fit for Metallica as well!!

I know this is an old thread but I cannot find this information anywhere. I am going to make my own mylar ring for the Sparky magnet as shipping from the US is to much for the ones at Marco. I was just wondering if anyone can tell me what the diameter of the outer circle is so I can make something that is of similar size.

I will cut the inner circle out once I have installed it on the playfield.

#13337 1 year ago

Wow my MET plays fast - been two weeks since I got it and love it.

After so many years I “found the magic” of MET”!

Heard last run of MET Pros is coming. Play chess and look at getting one before it is too late.

#13338 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

If you guys keep saying “MET LED” I’m gonna start calling mine a “MET wood”.

Just like the hardheaded dudes calling it MOPLE. That implies there is a MOPPRO and MOP Premium. It's fucking METLE lol now stop it!

#13339 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Source for Chrome Wire-form Return Ramps?
I realize sources like Pinball Refinery offer these return ramps in alternate powder-coated colors, but does anyone offer them in chrome?
Thanks.

I "think" all wireforms are chrome and Stern has them pc'd for the game so if you strip (don't ask me how) the pc off them there is chrome on them.

#13340 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I "think" all wireforms are chrome and Stern has them pc'd for the game so if you strip (don't ask me how) the pc off them there is chrome on them.

you would typically not powder coat over chrome

#13341 1 year ago
Quoted from JDub03:

Has anyone heard Stern stopping production MET Pro LED machines? I have had one on order for 6 weeks and I am being told another 4-6 now. I get that Iron Maiden is out, but I am worried I will never see the MET Pro I have on order.

Six weeks is nothing. I waited five months for mine! That's when they were having playfield issues and right before Stern moved to a bigger building.

#13342 1 year ago

Question for the experts.

What is happening to my MET cabinet? And WHY? Game was NIB less than 6 months ago! Set up in my home and has never been moved. Just noticed this recently. Seems like the wood is splitting/separating at this front left edge! Never seen this happen before. Is my concern warranted? Is this something that is going to get worse over time? Do I need to be extremely careful when I move the game, eventually? Can the distributor I purchased from, and/or Stern, actually DO anything to help?

Any advice is much appreciated. Haven't had ANY issues with the game otherwise. Has around 1000 plays.

Sorry for the crappy pics.

IMG_5897 (resized).jpg
IMG_5896 (resized).jpg

#13343 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Question for the experts.
What is happening to my MET cabinet? And WHY? Game was NIB less than 6 months ago! Set up in my home and has never been moved. Just noticed this recently. Seems like the wood is splitting/separating at this front left edge! Never seen this happen before. Is my concern warranted? Is this something that is going to get worse over time? Do I need to be extremely careful when I move the game, eventually? Can the distributor I purchased from, and/or Stern, actually DO anything to help?
Any advice is much appreciated. Haven't had ANY issues with the game otherwise. Has around 1000 plays.
Sorry for the crappy pics.

Oh no!! I'm sorry for you man!

I also wonder about this since this issue is also reported in the Iron Maiden thread. Some people say that the bolts might be too tight on the legs in combination of heavy nudging. I move the machine around a bit ass well (required to play Met!) but I'm also getting afraid that this might happen anytime soon.

My guess is that the only solution is gluing the parts together. The decals can be replaced as well. But It's an expensive repair I guess.

#13344 1 year ago

Replace the cheapo stern leg brackets with stronger Williams style and glue. There are a few different posts showing pictures of the process but it's pretty straight forward.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144

#13348 1 year ago
Quoted from John_I:

This is literally a matter of millimeters with one game varying slightly from the next. Last night I decided to look into this a lot more closely. I realized a fast traveling ball on my game must be hitting perfectly on center of the post as it is coming around the orbit in order to bounce back 90% of the time even with the metal post installed. I decided that I could move the post slightly by bending the up post coil bracket a little. With the playfield vertical, I bent the bracket downward a few degrees. This had the effect of moving the post a little bit toward the front of the playfield (without any sort of rubbing because the metal plunger is significantly thinner than the hole in the playfield). Now the ball hits a little off center towards the back side of the post and doesn't seem to bounce directly back as much. I played a few quick games and 5 out of 6 fast left orbits didn't bounce back. Time will tell but it looks like the little change helped.
So here is my working theory. The metal plunger helps because it is not quite as bouncy and more importantly it is a little thinner diameter. Being thinner makes it less likely to get a dead-on hit that bounces straight back. Some games (like mine) come from the factory with a combination of the back rail geometry and the coil bracket position that puts the post in the exact center of the ball path. Anything that can be done to change the path of the ball can possibly help give an off-center hit on the post. Maybe even playfield incline?

Science.

The steel ball colliding with a steel alloy post has a different coefficient of restitution than the steel ball colliding with a polymer post. The steel on steel collision would be closer to 0, an inelastic collision whereas the steel on polymer coefficient would be closer to the 1 end of the spectrum, an perfectly elastic response.

I don't know the alloy used in the metal post & pinball and I don't know the particular polymer used in the stock diverter post. I can't look up the material properites and calculate.

An educated guess is that the polymer most likely has material characteristics where it returns the energy of the collision elastically, causing the ball to rebound and return down the lane from where it came instead of absorbing the energy and dissipating it as heat.

The steel ball colliding with the steel post dissipates more energy through heat and sound than does the pinball collision with the polymer post. The slop of them metal post (looser fit) also helps reduce the energy of the strike.

#13349 1 year ago

praise science (resized).jpg

#13350 1 year ago

I have a problem with my MET pro - I am trying to update the code to the latest version but I am getting an error and I'd like to see if anybody else has seen this same error.

Here is the error -
"update failed" "Error Code: 1"

I have erased the thumb drive and downloaded the code to the drive again and then tried to install it again and I get the same error. I have searched the web and I haven't found any other people coming across Error Code 1. I will keep looking and reach out to Stern. If anybody has any experience with this, please let me know. Thank you.

IMG_0539 (resized).JPG

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