Definitely a full Cliffy set except the magnets. For magnets I do as said above. Keep vigilant on having the magnet height adjusted and replace them or file them down before they become mushroomed and can't come out.

When I get a game with magnet, first thing I do is remove the magnet and loosen the pole to break any factory locktite. Sometimes this requires a torch to loosen the locktite! Then, while the pole is out, I put a piece of mylar over the entire magnet area about 2 inches in diameter. Next I use a sharp Xacto blade to cut out the mylar from the magnet hole itself. That way the mylar comes literally right up to the edge if the magnet to protect the playfield. Then I put the magnet back in with a tiny bit of locktite. If the magnet has any mushrooming, I first file that off and leave a little inward taper all the way around. If the pole was abused on a route machine, I will replace it completely.

That is the ONE MORE GAME draw of a good pin.

Just got my Metallica pro wool wop
I am in the club.

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Congrats! You definitely won't regret it.

actually, that's the joy of pinball
just because you're the world's best pinball player, doesn't mean that the machine can't hand you a "new one" the next time you play. watch the PAPA tourney videos and see the same thing happen to top players like mr. elwin, mr. sharpe (both j and z) and a host of others

because of this nothing is more satisfying that having the game of your life against someone that you deem is levels above you and mopping the floor with them

Yep, and that's because there is an randomness to the game that even the best players can't fully overcome. I could never beat Serena Williams in a game of tennis, or Stephen Curry in a 3-point shootout, but I could definitely beat Elwin in a single game of pinball.

I was legit beat by my daughter who hates pinball playing Rollercoaster Tycoon a few weeks back. Sad thing is I already played a few games, learned the rules a bit, and was actually trying. It was fun watching her gloat a bit. MET is definitely one of those games that can seem brutal one day and then the next day you are tearing it up.

I’ve had Met quite a while, but this is getting old. Every 50 games or so I have to take off the glass and repoint and tighten the left spot. Is there a good fix?

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I've got that exact same issue with the left spot.

My fix works 100% from preventing it. Yank them both off, throw them in the coin box, never think about it again. Haven't missed them once.

I do have the LE apron lights I guess, dunno how much they even help, but the spots just annoyed me and aren't even useful IMO.

I put a touch of blue loctite on the screw and havent had the problem anymore. But it did kinda mess up the artwork a bit under the post on the plastic. So proceed with caution. Very very very little locktite.

It makes my center playfield so dark without them.

I thought about blue locktight, but was scared to hurt the plastic.

See this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/252#post-4233083

I did the same. It looks much better, and you never have to mess with that spot again!

Is it the metal post that's turning or just the spot light? If it's just the spot light I just put a small split lock washer on the screw and tightened the nut back down. Rock solid and took all of 5 minutes.

Thought about this, but I have the creeping death blades with the UV lighting strips from MI pinball Refinery. So, wouldn’t work.

Done! We’ll see if that solves the problem. Thanks!

It's the hex post that moves. You can't crank it down because you'll break the slingshot plastic. Same thing happens on my AC/DC. Drives me crazy.

Actually, the post was tight, it was the spot screw that kept loosening.

Hmmmm I must be lucky that my plastic hasn't cracked yet.

Once you get the post tight you have to put an open end wrench on it to keep it from moving then crank that nut and washer down.

for those of you concerned with the runny mess of regular loctite, why don't you purchase the stick version? it's just like chapstick, so you can control where you're applying it to and avoid getting it on areas that you don't want it on
loctite stick 248 (blue) (resized).jpg

for stuff like the bolts on the flipper assemblies, I will roll the threads over the stick and then put them back into the plate and secure them

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37643-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_1

I didnt know that stuff existed. Cool!

note to self. Chapstick goes in right pocket, Loctite goes in right pocket.

Boy I hope not.

You might consider buying PinStadium to solve this issue?

Or maybe just put the damn spotlights back on like it was designed? I also tried moving the spotlights to the scoop and the fuel lights area and I couldn’t stand how dark my center playfield was. Put them back after about 10 minutes of playing with them off.....horrible.
Just blue loctite them. Works great.

The split lock washer seems to have fixed the problem. If it comes loose again I’ll use blue loctite. Thanks!

I hid extra lighting.

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Good idea...what did you tie into for power to those spots?

One of the gi bulbs near it, took me about an hour and a half to do.

I had same issue with spotlights moving on both my MET and ST. I have simple way of tightening them where they never move. Tighten hex riser tight first. Do not over tighten or you might break the plastic. Just get it tight. Point the spotlight around 45 degrees to the left where you want to point it. Tighten the screw tight. Push the spotlight right 45 degrees and get it where you want it pointing. This gets the whole thing tight in position and doesn't move. At least that worked on both my Stern pins.

I have Pinstadiums on my MET. Guess I really don't need those spots. Might pull 'em out. Never thought about that!

What do you think about Pinstadium? I'm still on the fence deciding between creeping death lighting from Pinball Refineries or Pinstadium UV+GLOW flasher integration. I guess they do the same thing right? And Pinstadium lights up your playfield more evenly. Pinstadium can also be dimmed down to lower intensities right?

Love the Pinstadiums. At this time, color and brightness level can be controlled in the app. Only thing that isn't customizable right now is the UV glow effect. It's either on or off. But honestly, I wouldn't change anything about it, even if I could. It's pretty perfect.

I used to have the Creeping Death lights, and they worked GREAT, but I never cared much for how those long plastic strips looked, installed in my game. I much prefer how 'invisible' the Pinstadiums are when installed. I highly recommend them.

One thing that's slightly different......the Creeping Death lights were angled directly at the Creeping Death art blades, and made them 'glow' really brightly. But that's ALL they did. Since the Pinstadium UV Glow effect is angled more toward the playfield, they make THE WHOLE GAME glow! It's a GREAT effect. My art blades don't glow quite as intensely because of this, but it's a fair trade IMO!

IIRC, I used a bit of teflon tape on the spotlights. Worked like a charm.

My darts come with miniature rubber O-rings to secure the shafts from unscrewing. I am going to give those a try.

Back in stock. Made some kits over the weekend.

If you're tall, you don't need these.

If you're short, they help to see the roll-over lane lights at the top.

If you wear platform shoes, you're probably playing KISS, so ignore this.

Mod - For Sale

ELEVATED ROLLOVER LANE LIGHTS - METALLICA (PRO) Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “ITEM DESCRIPTION Dirty Donny guitar pick lights for upper rollover lane lights. Pingraffix Snake mod (2D or 3D) blocks the view of the upper rollover lane lights. These elevated...”

2018-04-09

Tucson, AZ

zene10

30 (Firm)

Archived after: 101 days

Viewed: 288 times

Status: Not sold

overpriced; don't get me wrong, I think they look great but for what you get ...

I would love this for my premium. I can't wrap my head around why I can't get this to work. Shouldn't you be able to add a socket to the existing ones on the board?

Side mirrors or Creeping Death decals from Pingraffix for my Met Pro?
I hesitate...

Decals

You can definitely stack S&D with any of the 4 multiballs (snake, chair, coffin, or grave). I want to say I've stacked it with a CIU once, but I'm not entirely sure... If it did, the CIU music and animations had priority over S&D).

Good luck! The standup targets in this game are brutal... I usually end S&D by draining after hitting one.

Edit: Pick targets start Blackened, not Seek and Destroy...

So how many combos do people get on this game? When I play T2, I can get a ton easily. Seems like the ramps are a lot tighter on my MET Pre; the best I've had is 12 combos. The previous owner never cleared the default (20 combos) either. It's hard!

Ah. Which combos are more satisfying though?

Like is hitting T2 ramp to ramp as satisfying as MET ramp to ramp? I don’t think so. Hitting ramp to ramp on any game is pretty fun. On T2 ramp to ramp is fun, but the tougher shots on tougher games are more satisfying. That is how I look at things.

Blackened mode is what kicks in with completing pic target sets to light the band member inserts between flippers.

I don’t have access to a premium, otherwise I might be able to figure this out.

I’ll see if I can get a clue from the manuals.