(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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There are 16880 posts in this topic. You are on page 263 of 338.
#13101 1 year ago

Definitely a full Cliffy set except the magnets. For magnets I do as said above. Keep vigilant on having the magnet height adjusted and replace them or file them down before they become mushroomed and can't come out.

When I get a game with magnet, first thing I do is remove the magnet and loosen the pole to break any factory locktite. Sometimes this requires a torch to loosen the locktite! Then, while the pole is out, I put a piece of mylar over the entire magnet area about 2 inches in diameter. Next I use a sharp Xacto blade to cut out the mylar from the magnet hole itself. That way the mylar comes literally right up to the edge if the magnet to protect the playfield. Then I put the magnet back in with a tiny bit of locktite. If the magnet has any mushrooming, I first file that off and leave a little inward taper all the way around. If the pole was abused on a route machine, I will replace it completely.

#13102 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

Next game: 4.5M total. WTF? I don't understand pinball....

That is the ONE MORE GAME draw of a good pin.

11
#13103 1 year ago

Just got my Metallica pro wool wop
I am in the club.

2A4BC523-29EC-4FFC-87CE-0C713C554AF9 (resized).jpeg

#13104 1 year ago
Quoted from Londonpinball:

Just got my Metallica pro wool wop
I am in the club.

Congrats! You definitely won't regret it.

#13105 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

Yeah, I don't understand that at all. How can you play amazing one game and fail to crack 5 million the next? I had an amazing game a few days ago - 100M on my first ball, including a CIU. Second ball I screwed up badly. Extra ball I got about 50M, third (or 4th, depending if you count extra ball), another 50M for a total of 198M.
Next game: 4.5M total. WTF? I don't understand pinball....

actually, that's the joy of pinball
just because you're the world's best pinball player, doesn't mean that the machine can't hand you a "new one" the next time you play. watch the PAPA tourney videos and see the same thing happen to top players like mr. elwin, mr. sharpe (both j and z) and a host of others

because of this nothing is more satisfying that having the game of your life against someone that you deem is levels above you and mopping the floor with them

#13106 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

Actually, that's the joy of pinball. Just because you're the world's best pinball player, doesn't mean that the machine can't hand you a "new one" the next time you play. Watch the PAPA tourney videos and see the same thing happen to top players like mr. elwin, mr. sharpe (both j and z) and a host of others. Because of this, nothing is more satisfying that having the game of your life against someone that you deem is levels above you and mopping the floor with them.

Yep, and that's because there is an randomness to the game that even the best players can't fully overcome. I could never beat Serena Williams in a game of tennis, or Stephen Curry in a 3-point shootout, but I could definitely beat Elwin in a single game of pinball.

#13107 1 year ago

I was legit beat by my daughter who hates pinball playing Rollercoaster Tycoon a few weeks back. Sad thing is I already played a few games, learned the rules a bit, and was actually trying. It was fun watching her gloat a bit. MET is definitely one of those games that can seem brutal one day and then the next day you are tearing it up.

#13108 1 year ago

I’ve had Met quite a while, but this is getting old. Every 50 games or so I have to take off the glass and repoint and tighten the left spot. Is there a good fix?

B9A5DE5D-5DE0-467C-897F-6C7C52A92055 (resized).jpeg

#13109 1 year ago

I've got that exact same issue with the left spot.

#13110 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

I’ve had Met quite a while, but this is getting old. Every 50 games or so I have to take off the glass and repoint and tighten the left spot. Is there a good fix?

My fix works 100% from preventing it. Yank them both off, throw them in the coin box, never think about it again. Haven't missed them once.

I do have the LE apron lights I guess, dunno how much they even help, but the spots just annoyed me and aren't even useful IMO.

#13111 1 year ago

I put a touch of blue loctite on the screw and havent had the problem anymore. But it did kinda mess up the artwork a bit under the post on the plastic. So proceed with caution. Very very very little locktite.

#13112 1 year ago
Quoted from Aurich:

My fix works 100% from preventing it. Yank them both off, throw them in the coin box, never think about it again. Haven't missed them once.
I do have the LE apron lights I guess, dunno how much they even help, but the spots just annoyed me and aren't even useful IMO.

It makes my center playfield so dark without them.

Quoted from Rickwh:

I put a touch of blue loctite on the screw and havent had the problem anymore. But it did kinda mess up the artwork a bit under the post on the plastic. So proceed with caution. Very very very little locktite.

I thought about blue locktight, but was scared to hurt the plastic.

#13113 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

I’ve had Met quite a while, but this is getting old. Every 50 games or so I have to take off the glass and repoint and tighten the left spot. Is there a good fix?

See this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/252#post-4233083

I did the same. It looks much better, and you never have to mess with that spot again!

#13114 1 year ago

Wow, that’s a brilliant mod 85vett! I’m definitely doing that when I get my MET back.

#13115 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

I’ve had Met quite a while, but this is getting old. Every 50 games or so I have to take off the glass and repoint and tighten the left spot. Is there a good fix?

Is it the metal post that's turning or just the spot light? If it's just the spot light I just put a small split lock washer on the screw and tightened the nut back down. Rock solid and took all of 5 minutes.

#13116 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

See this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/252#post-4233083
I did the same. It looks much better, and you never have to mess with that spot again!

Thought about this, but I have the creeping death blades with the UV lighting strips from MI pinball Refinery. So, wouldn’t work.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Is it the metal post that's turning or just the spot light? If it's just the spot light I just put a small split lock washer on the screw and tightened the nut back down. Rock solid and took all of 5 minutes.

Done! We’ll see if that solves the problem. Thanks!

#13117 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Is it the metal post that's turning or just the spot light? If it's just the spot light I just put a small split lock washer on the screw and tightened the nut back down. Rock solid and took all of 5 minutes.

It's the hex post that moves. You can't crank it down because you'll break the slingshot plastic. Same thing happens on my AC/DC. Drives me crazy.

#13118 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

It's the hex post that moves. You can't crank it down because you'll break the slingshot plastic. Same thing happens on my AC/DC. Drives me crazy.

Actually, the post was tight, it was the spot screw that kept loosening.

#13119 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

It's the hex post that moves. You can't crank it down because you'll break the slingshot plastic. Same thing happens on my AC/DC. Drives me crazy.

Hmmmm I must be lucky that my plastic hasn't cracked yet.

#13120 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Actually, the post was tight, it was the spot screw that kept loosening.

Once you get the post tight you have to put an open end wrench on it to keep it from moving then crank that nut and washer down.

#13121 1 year ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

I put a touch of blue loctite on the screw and havent had the problem anymore. But it did kinda mess up the artwork a bit under the post on the plastic. So proceed with caution. Very very very little locktite.

for those of you concerned with the runny mess of regular loctite, why don't you purchase the stick version? it's just like chapstick, so you can control where you're applying it to and avoid getting it on areas that you don't want it on
loctite stick 248 (blue) (resized).jpg

for stuff like the bolts on the flipper assemblies, I will roll the threads over the stick and then put them back into the plate and secure them

amazon.com link »

#13122 1 year ago

I didnt know that stuff existed. Cool!

#13123 1 year ago

note to self. Chapstick goes in right pocket, Loctite goes in right pocket.

#13124 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

note to self. Chapstick goes in right pocket, Loctite goes in right pocket.

Boy I hope not.

-4
#13125 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

It makes my center playfield so dark without them.

You might consider buying PinStadium to solve this issue?

#13126 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

You might consider buying PinStadium to solve this issue?

Or maybe just put the damn spotlights back on like it was designed? I also tried moving the spotlights to the scoop and the fuel lights area and I couldn’t stand how dark my center playfield was. Put them back after about 10 minutes of playing with them off.....horrible.
Just blue loctite them. Works great.

#13127 1 year ago

The split lock washer seems to have fixed the problem. If it comes loose again I’ll use blue loctite. Thanks!

#13128 1 year ago

I hid extra lighting.

IMGA0681 (resized).JPG

IMGA0680 (resized).JPG

#13129 1 year ago

Good idea...what did you tie into for power to those spots?

#13130 1 year ago

One of the gi bulbs near it, took me about an hour and a half to do.

#13131 1 year ago

I had same issue with spotlights moving on both my MET and ST. I have simple way of tightening them where they never move. Tighten hex riser tight first. Do not over tighten or you might break the plastic. Just get it tight. Point the spotlight around 45 degrees to the left where you want to point it. Tighten the screw tight. Push the spotlight right 45 degrees and get it where you want it pointing. This gets the whole thing tight in position and doesn't move. At least that worked on both my Stern pins.

#13132 1 year ago

I have Pinstadiums on my MET. Guess I really don't need those spots. Might pull 'em out. Never thought about that!

#13133 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I have Pinstadiums on my MET. Guess I really don't need those spots. Might pull 'em out. Never thought about that!

What do you think about Pinstadium? I'm still on the fence deciding between creeping death lighting from Pinball Refineries or Pinstadium UV+GLOW flasher integration. I guess they do the same thing right? And Pinstadium lights up your playfield more evenly. Pinstadium can also be dimmed down to lower intensities right?

#13134 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

What do you think about Pinstadium? I'm still on the fence deciding between creeping death lighting from Pinball Refineries or Pinstadium UV+GLOW flasher integration. I guess they do the same thing right? And Pinstadium lights up your playfield more evenly. Pinstadium can also be dimmed down to lower intensities right?

Love the Pinstadiums. At this time, color and brightness level can be controlled in the app. Only thing that isn't customizable right now is the UV glow effect. It's either on or off. But honestly, I wouldn't change anything about it, even if I could. It's pretty perfect.

I used to have the Creeping Death lights, and they worked GREAT, but I never cared much for how those long plastic strips looked, installed in my game. I much prefer how 'invisible' the Pinstadiums are when installed. I highly recommend them.

One thing that's slightly different......the Creeping Death lights were angled directly at the Creeping Death art blades, and made them 'glow' really brightly. But that's ALL they did. Since the Pinstadium UV Glow effect is angled more toward the playfield, they make THE WHOLE GAME glow! It's a GREAT effect. My art blades don't glow quite as intensely because of this, but it's a fair trade IMO!

#13135 1 year ago

IIRC, I used a bit of teflon tape on the spotlights. Worked like a charm.

#13136 1 year ago

My darts come with miniature rubber O-rings to secure the shafts from unscrewing. I am going to give those a try.

#13137 1 year ago

Back in stock. Made some kits over the weekend.

If you're tall, you don't need these.

If you're short, they help to see the roll-over lane lights at the top.

If you wear platform shoes, you're probably playing KISS, so ignore this.

Archived after 101 days
288 views
Not sold
Mod - For Sale
New “ITEM DESCRIPTION Dirty Donny guitar pick lights for upper rollover lane lights. Pingraffix Snake mod (2D or 3D) blocks the view of the upper rollover lane lights. These elevated...”
2018-04-09
Tucson, AZ
30 (Firm)

#13138 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

What do you think about Pinstadium?

overpriced; don't get me wrong, I think they look great but for what you get ...

#13139 1 year ago
Quoted from zene10:

Back in stock. Made some kits over the weekend.
If you're tall, you don't need these.
If you're short, they help see the roll-over lane lights at the top.
If you wear platform shoes, you're probably playing KISS, so ignore this.

Mod - For Sale
ELEVATED ROLLOVER LANE LIGHTS - METALLICA (PRO)New “ITEM DESCRIPTION
Dirty Donny guitar pick lights for upper rollover lane lights.

Pingraffix Snake mod (2D or 3D) blocks the view of the upper rollover lane lights.

These elevated...”
3 hours ago Tucson, AZ 30 (Firm)
zene10

I would love this for my premium. I can't wrap my head around why I can't get this to work. Shouldn't you be able to add a socket to the existing ones on the board?

#13140 1 year ago

Side mirrors or Creeping Death decals from Pingraffix for my Met Pro?
I hesitate...

#13141 1 year ago
Quoted from Shadrac:

Side mirrors or Creeping Death decals from Pingraffix for my Met Pro?
I hesitate...

Decals

#13142 1 year ago

This thread needs more game play discussion. Is it possible to stack Seek and Destroy with a multiball or a CIU?

#13143 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

This thread needs more game play discussion. Is it possible to stack Seek and Destroy with a multiball or a CIU?

You can definitely stack S&D with any of the 4 multiballs (snake, chair, coffin, or grave). I want to say I've stacked it with a CIU once, but I'm not entirely sure... If it did, the CIU music and animations had priority over S&D).

#13144 1 year ago

Cool, that’ll be my new goal! Thanks.

#13145 1 year ago

Good luck! The standup targets in this game are brutal... I usually end S&D by draining after hitting one.

Edit: Pick targets start Blackened, not Seek and Destroy...

#13146 1 year ago

So how many combos do people get on this game? When I play T2, I can get a ton easily. Seems like the ramps are a lot tighter on my MET Pre; the best I've had is 12 combos. The previous owner never cleared the default (20 combos) either. It's hard!

#13147 1 year ago
Quoted from toymin80r:

Good luck! The standup targets in this game are brutal... It doesn't help that you have to clear so many of them to start S&D.

I’m confused. I thought you started S&D by collecting items at all the major shots, and collecting at the captive ball.
I know that clearing the picks about a dozen times does something.

#13148 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

So how many combos do people get on this game? When I play T2, I can get a ton easily. Seems like the ramps are a lot tighter on my MET Pre; the best I've had is 12 combos. The previous owner never cleared the default (20 combos) either. It's hard!

Ah. Which combos are more satisfying though?

Like is hitting T2 ramp to ramp as satisfying as MET ramp to ramp? I don’t think so. Hitting ramp to ramp on any game is pretty fun. On T2 ramp to ramp is fun, but the tougher shots on tougher games are more satisfying. That is how I look at things.

#13149 1 year ago

Blackened mode is what kicks in with completing pic target sets to light the band member inserts between flippers.

#13150 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I would love this for my premium. I can't wrap my head around why I can't get this to work. Shouldn't you be able to add a socket to the existing ones on the board?

I don’t have access to a premium, otherwise I might be able to figure this out.

I’ll see if I can get a clue from the manuals.

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