(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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#13051 1 year ago

Spent the weekend putting fang kits together.

Archived after 107 days
351 views
Not sold
Mod - For Sale
New “For $7 bucks (domestic shipping included) I'll send you everything you need to add them to your snake. There's nothing magic about this. You can readily find the components yourse...”
2018-09-14
Tucson, AZ
7 (Firm)

2SZ_3879 (resized).JPG

#13052 1 year ago

Nice affordable solution!

#13053 1 year ago

Since I don’t have my Met yet I don’t know how many balls need the be installed.

I want to order silverjets to replace the stock balls. How many do I need? 4?

Thanks for the help.

#13054 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Since I don’t have my Met yet I don’t know how many balls need the be installed.
I want to order silverjets to replace the stock balls. How many do I need? 4?
Thanks for the help.

Make sure silverjets don’t magnetize quicker because they are extra shiny...made out of stuff more prone to magnetism.

Yes...4 balls.

#13055 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Make sure silverjets don’t magnetize quicker

I was aware of this but thanks for the heads up.
My local parts retailer sells normal Superjets and a “special low magnetic” version for use in pins with magnets. Does this makes sense? I do trust this retailer so if he specifically mentions this I assume it shouldn’t be an issue.

And thanks for confirming the amount of balls.

#13056 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

My local parts retailer sells normal Superjets and a “special low magnetic” version for use in pins with magnets. Does this makes sense?

Yes, what you want to use are carbon core balls, not chromium. Carbon steel will magnetize much slower. Likely what they're selling you.

#13057 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Since I don’t have my Met yet I don’t know how many balls need the be installed.
I want to order silverjets to replace the stock balls. How many do I need? 4?
Thanks for the help.

Mistake. There is NOTHING WRONG with the stock Stern balls. They solved that issue years ago. Take them out of the pouch, clean the protective oil off of them with alcohol, and drop them in. The last game I bought NIB(GOT Premium) they were even the shiny variety.

#13058 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Mistake. There is NOTHING WRONG with the stock Stern balls.

I bought a used (one year old) one so maybe it’s better anyway to replace the balls?

#13059 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

I bought a used (one year old) one so maybe it’s better anyway to replace the balls?

Yeah if the game is used fo ahead and replace them because you don't know how long the old balls have been in there.

#13060 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Mistake. There is NOTHING WRONG with the stock Stern balls. They solved that issue years ago.

Well years ago is apparently after I got my NIB Star Trek Prem, the stock balls were garbage, and that's where they went.

#13062 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Does anyone know where I could buy just the "M" logo for the speaker grills? I don't want the lights, just the "M".

Shoot me a pm and I'll cut you just the m acrylic if you still want it

#13063 1 year ago

Anybody noticed this mod?

https://www.shapeways.com/product/6G7KVP9JP/metallica-pinball-coffin-insert-plastic?optionId=61116030&li=ostatus

Looks like a great wat to cover the misaligned LED's in coffin. And it also looks like there are "balls" inside like on prem/LE.
I've ordered the part and will post the result.

#13064 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Mistake. There is NOTHING WRONG with the stock Stern balls. They solved that issue years ago. Take them out of the pouch, clean the protective oil off of them with alcohol, and drop them in. The last game I bought NIB(GOT Premium) they were even the shiny variety.

Must be a crap shoot then as my GOTLE balls were very poor in quality (pitting and even surface rust). The NIB GOTG I helped to unbox in the tournament area for TPF this year had pretty sub-par balls as well. No surface rust at least but a lot of pitting and scratching.

#13065 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Hey guys, hopefully I’ll be able to join the Metallica family as well very soon. Hope to have my MET arrived within two weeks or so.
Now I’m desperately searching for the snake mod but specially the “3D version”. Any ideas where I might find it?
Also the snake fangs seem to become quite rare. Do they break easily? Otherwise I might consider passing on them.
Thanks!

Have my Mezel mod Fangs like 3 yrs now I think? Still going strong so don’t worry. You are fine for a long time.

And nice to see another MET user. You know Leon also living in Helmand? He has a modded met to so you can get some ideas.

#13066 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

You know Leon also living in Helmand? He has a modded met to so you can get some ideas.

Nope don’t know him. I really need to get in touch more with other collectors (thru NFV?) because my own friends still think I’m crazy.

Going to pick-up the machine in little over a week from now. Can’t wait!

#13067 1 year ago

I have a question regarding Mezelmods gels for colorizing the fuel gauge.

I know that a green sheet is included for the fuel targets well. But can I also use the reg/orange/yellow pieces for the separate letters under the target? Or are they too small?
I might consider adding an extra set to colorize the target letters as well.

I have a Metallica PRO so maybe I don’t need the gel sheets anyway since I can replace the LED’s with colored ones? (Unlike Prem/LE)

#13068 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

I have a question regarding Mezelmods gels for colorizing the fuel gauge.
I know that a green sheet is included for the fuel targets well. But can I also use the reg/orange/yellow pieces for the separate letters under the target? Or are they too small?
I might consider adding an extra set to colorize the target letters as well.
I have a Metallica PRO so maybe I don’t need the gel sheets anyway since I can replace the LED’s with colored ones? (Unlike Prem/LE)

I just had the leds I wanted replaced with the color I wanted. Worked great, and very easy.

12
#13069 1 year ago

Awesome game tonight- made it to 3 CIU's which is deepest I ever gotten into the code (CIU's didn't go very well) but still had my best score ever.
Factory settings, 3 ball game.

20180403_161227 (resized).jpg

#13070 1 year ago
Quoted from AJB4:

Awesome game tonight- made it to 3 CIU's which is deepest I ever gotten into the code (CIU's didn't go very well) but still had my best score ever.
Factory settings, 3 ball game.

Still loving my new MET, so glad that i got this game! Its an absolute keeper for life.

#13071 1 year ago

Yep, I bought new years ago And play everyday.

#13072 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Nope don’t know him. I really need to get in touch more with other collectors (thru NFV?) because my own friends still think I’m crazy.
Going to pick-up the machine in little over a week from now. Can’t wait!

This is his profile on Pinside: https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/pinballrulez

As he is a MET fan to and has modded it heavily (alsmost as much as mine )and lives in same town as you I think it would be good to contact him. And yes, becoming a NFV member for only EUR 35,-/yr is a very good idea

#13073 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

I have a question regarding Mezelmods gels for colorizing the fuel gauge.
I know that a green sheet is included for the fuel targets well. But can I also use the reg/orange/yellow pieces for the separate letters under the target? Or are they too small?
I might consider adding an extra set to colorize the target letters as well.
I have a Metallica PRO so maybe I don’t need the gel sheets anyway since I can replace the LED’s with colored ones? (Unlike Prem/LE)

With a pro their is no reason to buy the gels. Just get the LED's of your color choice.

#13074 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

With a pro their is no reason to buy the gels. Just get the LED's of your color choice.

That's what I did. Orange and yellow don't look that different but good enough. I also swapped out a few other bulbs just for fun. Cheap and easy customization.

#13075 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

I was aware of this but thanks for the heads up.
My local parts retailer sells normal Superjets and a “special low magnetic” version for use in pins with magnets. Does this makes sense? I do trust this retailer so if he specifically mentions this I assume it shouldn’t be an issue.
And thanks for confirming the amount of balls.

Silverjets, Titan Shiny, PB Life's old Oooh la la, and Ball Baron Ninja are ALL chrome pinballs. They will ALL magnetize over time in games with heavy usage of exposed magnets (Dialed In and TZ namely). There is no such thing as a "low magnetic" chrome pinball. Low magnetic balls are carbon pinballs. They are darker, less shiny, softer, and cheaper than chrome balls.

Having said that, I now have 440 games on my MET with Ball Baron balls, and no magnetism or weird issues to report. Prior to that, my MET ran 305 games with Titan Shiny balls, with no magnetism to report. I am not aware of anyone using chrome balls in their MET that has developed magnetism issues affecting game play.

#13076 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Silverjets, Titan Shiny, PB Life's old Oooh la la, and Ball Baron Ninja are ALL chrome pinballs. They will ALL magnetize over time in games with heavy usage of exposed magnets (Dialed In and TZ namely). There is no such thing as a "low magnetic" chrome pinball. Low magnetic balls are carbon pinballs. They are darker, less shiny, softer, and cheaper than chrome balls.
Having said that, I now have 440 games on my MET with Ball Baron balls, and no magnetism or weird issues to report. Prior to that, my MET ran 305 games with Titan Shiny balls, with no magnetism to report. I am not aware of anyone using chrome balls in their MET that has developed magnetism issues affecting game play.

I just had to replace the balls in my MET because one of them became magnetized and they would get hung up in the trough. It does happen. The balls that were in my MET were only a few months old.

#13077 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

With a pro their is no reason to buy the gels. Just get the LED's of your color choice.

Warm white is a color. I never felt the need to change the fuel gauge. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

#13078 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Warm white is a color. I never felt the need to change the fuel gauge. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I’m more interested in colorizing the letters at the targets. I think it looks kinda sweet.

98E16A82-BAA4-4862-85B4-EF1FFBBC063C (resized).jpeg

#13079 1 year ago

I have color changers below these targets

This is mine, perhaps it gives you some idea. Since this video was made I also installed a translucent apron with lightning beneath it

#13080 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Warm white is a color. I never felt the need to change the fuel gauge. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Which is completely irrelevant. I'm glad you felt it necessary to provide yet another "don't color LED your games" based commentary to people that didn't ask that question. My response was in reference to the question on if the person needed to buy Gels in order to change the colors on their pro. That is a simple answer of "nope, you don't".

I'm sorry if this is rude but I'm quite honestly getting real tired of this community constantly badgering people for their personal taste in their games. It's not productive at all. If someone ask, "what color LED should I put ___" then those doors are open but that's not the case with this question.

For instance - I saw a lot of people talking crap about my MET that I brought to TPF. Comments were mainly along the lines of using blue in the GI. News flash - Prem and LE's come with RWB GI. That's factory!!! So I'm assuming all those, "don't color LED your games people" are changing all newer stern games GI to white, right?

We ALL get it. Some don't like LED's (I'm not and am a fan of Sun Light from Comet in my games) while others don't. Some like putting all kinds of crap on their games while others don't. If everyone liked the same things life would be pretty boring.

Sorry, rant off.

#13081 1 year ago

Plenty of room for differing opinions here, including mine. I realize I’m in the minority, hence the shrug emoticon. I’m probably the only guy on the planet who replaced the factory GI for GOTLE with warm white. I do try not to be a dick about my preferences, but it’s an open thread.

#13082 1 year ago

Might be picking up a pro soon... Wanted to know the recommended parts/mods?

Are Cliffys suggested?

Also saw a video of a lighting upgrade that would make it look like a premium/LE. Does this work with the Pro LED model?

#13083 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Plenty of room for differing opinions here, including mine. I realize I’m in the minority, hence the shrug emoticon. I’m probably the only guy on the planet who replaced the factory GI for GOTLE with warm white. I do try not to be a dick about my preferences, but it’s an open thread.

I put Sun Light in my GI on my GOTLE so not the only person on the planet that replaced the cool white.

Quoted from Damien:

Might be picking up a pro soon... Wanted to know the recommended parts/mods?
Are Cliffys suggested?
Also saw a video of a lighting upgrade that would make it look like a premium/LE. Does this work with the Pro LED model?

Yes, that kit is designed for the Pro and will work on the LED model.

I personally went with the mantis protector for the CIU scoop vs the cliffy. I've been very happy with it and after a couple thousand plays it shows no wear there. Some put the cliffy around the magnets. I went with mylar. Again no wear their on the PF either.

Mods are a personal preference but if I had to advise on one it would be the snake teeth. Turn that turtle into a snake!

#13084 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Are Cliffys suggested?

I assume this is a matter of personal opinion as well. I went for a full set of protectors:
• Shooter Lane
• Rail Guard™ w/screw
• Mystery Scoop
• Graveyard magnet protector in carbon
• Sparky magnet protector in carbon
• Two inlane switch protectors (to protect from ball drops from the habitrails)
• Ball through/out-drain protector

But other will argued that putting protectors on a perfect playfield is like buying a nice wooden coffee table and wrapping it up in plastic.

Maybe it’s just my OCD but I hate seeing bald creating bumps on the shooterlane rail. I have seeing scuffs at scoops etc etc.

Quoted from Damien:

Also saw a video of a lighting upgrade that would make it look like a premium/LE. Does this work with the Pro LED model?

Yes that would probably be the Total Lightshow mod which you can order here:https://redshiftled.com.au/

As far as I know the only differences between the incandescent and LED versions are the light bulbs and the back box (wooden versus metal including artwork on the speaker panel)

EDIT:

It appears that there’s one other difference according to the Total Lightshow manufacturer. So make sure to order the additional part of you have an older version of #MET Pro.

**Older Pro models vs LED Pro**
Sterns newer, LED Pro models ship from the factory with termination resistor boards fitted to the lamp matrix. These are primarily to address ghosting, but they also do a nice job of cleaning up the signals and they are necessary for 100% performance of the Matrix Interceptor.
If you install the kit in an older, wooden back box style pro, you will need the add on Matrix Terminator boards which I produce for the kit. They are similar circuitry to the factory boards and guarantee full performance of the main board.

#13085 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Some put the cliffy around the magnets. I went with mylar.

Maybe a newbie question from my part by I thought it’s not done to put Mylar on the playfield since it will damage it upon removal? (I’m seeing all those restoration videos about Mylar removal)
And what about putting Mylar (or some other sticky plastic material) on the cabinet around the flipper buttons?

#13086 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Might be picking up a pro soon... Wanted to know the recommended parts/mods?
Are Cliffys suggested?
Also saw a video of a lighting upgrade that would make it look like a premium/LE. Does this work with the Pro LED model?

My purple Leg Lights look great on all Mets. You asked.

#13087 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Maybe a newbie question from my part by I thought it’s not done to put Mylar on the playfield since it will damage it upon removal? (I’m seeing all those restoration videos about Mylar removal)
And what about putting Mylar (or some other sticky plastic material) on the cabinet around the flipper buttons?

That's really only an issue with the older games due to how the PF's were cleared but if you wax the game before applying it the mylar will come up without much of a fight if you want to remove it. It will still stick down good as well. Their are also low tac mylars out now.

With newer games I personally feel you will see more potential long term damage with a cliffy than mylar removal at magnets (and scoops). I've removed several cliffy's from PF's where it's cause a slight indention in the clear where they were located. I've also removed a lot of them to where their is zero clear damage. I think that may depend on how soon they are applied after clear or maybe just PF tolerance differences. Either way, that is why I personally prefer the mantis protectors for scoops and mylar for magnets. Cliffy's are a great product though so I'm not trying to convince either way. Just providing my experience and preference.

#13088 1 year ago

Here’s my view on magenet protectors: they aren’t needed IF you adjust the magnet to the right height, slightly above the playfield. What’s much more important here is to remove the magnet core every 500-1000 plays and fix any mushrooming that has started. I didn’t do that for my 2010 IM, and I’m dealing with the consequences of it now. That locktite is a lot easier to deal with when you can still remove the core from the playfield!

#13089 1 year ago

+1 on the Mantis protector for the Mystery scoop. At least 5,000 plays on mine, and no damage yet.

#13090 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

adjust the magnet to the right height, slightly above the playfield. What’s much more important here is to remove the magnet core every 500-1000 plays and fix any mushrooming that has started.

Makes sense. Setting it slightly higher protects the edge of the wood, and should be easy to file/grind it back flat when needed.

#13091 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

What’s much more important here is to remove the magnet core every 500-1000 plays and fix any mushrooming that has started.

Do you have pictures of how dit does look? And can you just sand down the core? Isn't it a plated material?

#13092 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Do you have pictures of how dit does look? And can you just sand down the core? Isn't it a plated material?

It is not plated and can be ground down as needed.

#13093 1 year ago

Monster translites on ebay now.... for a lot more then Marco had them for.

#13094 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Do you have pictures of how dit does look? And can you just sand down the core? Isn't it a plated material?

I bought a spare set of magnet cores. I work in a machine shop so I swapped the new ones in and just turned down the ends of the originals a bit in a lathe so next time they’re all pitted and whatnot I can just rotate the spares in and not have any downtime. There is more than enough thread on the ends of them where you could easily knock a quarter inch off of them over time and not have any assembly problems.

#13095 1 year ago
Quoted from JB-7X:

I bought a spare set of magnet cores. I work in a machine shop so I swapped the new ones in and just turned down the ends of the originals a bit in a lathe so next time they’re all pitted and whatnot I can just rotate the spares in and not have any downtime. There is more than enough thread on the ends of them where you could easily knock a quarter inch off of them over time and not have any assembly problems.

that's a great idea. my father has a metal lathe, I should probably invest in a 2nd set and do the same

#13096 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

that's a great idea. my father has a metal lathe, I should probably invest in a 2nd set and do the same

I replaced the originals at around 1300 plays when I finally got my act together and did a full cliffy set install. With the addition of the core cliffys 500 games later I’m hardly seeing any pitting in my new cores either. I only own one pin and having any downtime sucks so I figured that this was a cheap investment of $16 from Marco to keep me going if the situation ever arises again.

#13097 1 year ago

I was an original METLE owner for two years and have since been a pro owner for two years, but I've never reached EOTL. Over the last few nights, I've had two chances where I thought I could do it.

The other night I finished all four CIU's, and I was collecting items for EOTL. I managed to collect the coffin insert, but before I could focus on the lanes with multiple inserts lit, I drained at the left outlane.

Last night I finished three CIU's on ball one and felt invincible! Everything was going my way! I had multi-balls stacked with ball savers going, and I was racking up the collected items quickly. Of course, ball two was a quick drain, and then I was too timid on ball 3. I was making progress toward the fourth CIU, but I missed the right ramp, hit the standup, and had a quick drain right down the middle.

So close!

#13098 1 year ago
Quoted from Sparky:

I was an original METLE owner for two years and have since been a pro owner for two years, but I've never reached EOTL. Over the last few nights, I've had two chances where I thought I could do it.
The other night I finished all four CIU's, and I was collecting items for EOTL. I managed to collect the coffin insert, but before I could focus on the lanes with multiple inserts lit, I drained at the left outlane.
Last night I finished three CIU's on ball one and felt invincible! Everything was going my way! I had multi-balls stacked with ball savers going, and I was racking up the collected items quickly. Of course, ball two was a quick drain, and then I was too timid on ball 3. I was making progress toward the fourth CIU, but I missed the right ramp, hit the standup, and had a quick drain right down the middle.
So close!

What was your scores for those games?

I just had my best game at 283 mill and I felt good about it. Your score must have been 3-4 times that.

#13099 1 year ago
Quoted from Monk:

What was your scores for those games?
I just had my best game at 283 mill and I felt good about it. Your score must have been 3-4 times that.

Scores were not even close to being my highest because I got out of the CIU's as soon as I qualified to collect. Each CIU was only about 10mil because of this.

#13100 1 year ago
Quoted from Sparky:

Last night I finished three CIU's on ball one and felt invincible! Everything was going my way! I had multi-balls stacked with ball savers going, and I was racking up the collected items quickly. Of course, ball two was a quick drain, and then I was too timid on ball 3. I was making progress toward the fourth CIU, but I missed the right ramp, hit the standup, and had a quick drain right down the middle.
So close!

Yeah, I don't understand that at all. How can you play amazing one game and fail to crack 5 million the next? I had an amazing game a few days ago - 100M on my first ball, including a CIU. Second ball I screwed up badly. Extra ball I got about 50M, third (or 4th, depending if you count extra ball), another 50M for a total of 198M.

Next game: 4.5M total. WTF? I don't understand pinball....

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