Quoted from Fezmid:Did you see that Marco apparently has them in stock? The image is wrong though, so you might want to confirm with them:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=metallica+translite
Nevermind I see it.
Quoted from Fezmid:Did you see that Marco apparently has them in stock? The image is wrong though, so you might want to confirm with them:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=metallica+translite
Nevermind I see it.
Quoted from delt31:where did you get those "M" icons in your speakers? Can't find them....
Pinballbulbs.com has them and the ninja star ones.
Does anyone know where I could buy just the "M" logo for the speaker grills? I don't want the lights, just the "M".
Quoted from Fezmid:Did you see that Marco apparently has them in stock? The image is wrong though, so you might want to confirm with them:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=metallica+translite
Trying to buy - not letting me.
Quoted from finnflash:Pinballbulbs.com has them and the ninja star ones.
Thanks - just bought the kit and M acrylic.
Quoted from Fezmid:Did you see that Marco apparently has them in stock? The image is wrong though, so you might want to confirm with them:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=metallica+translite
I clicked your link it is a PRO translite.
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:I clicked your link it is a PRO translite.
There's two. One is Pro. The other SAYS Premium/LE -- but has the wrong picture, so I don't know if the picture is wrong or the text is wrong.
Quoted from finnflash:Pinballbulbs.com has them and the ninja star ones.
Can you provide a link? I am not finding them...
Quoted from Fezmid:There's two. One is Pro. The other SAYS Premium/LE -- but has the wrong picture, so I don't know if the picture is wrong or the text is wrong.
Haha lol wow. I saw the picture of the coil next to it and didn’t even read the words below it lol
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:Haha lol wow. I saw the picture of the coil next to it and didn’t even read the words below it lol
I did the same thing.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:Can you provide a link? I am not finding them...
www.pinballbulbs.com/speaker-light-kits
Once you pick what color light you want, you can choose what acrylic you want.
so the translite on marco is Roadcase NOT MONSTERS. My journey continues ; ) Thanks for the alert though.
Quoted from delt31:so the translite on marco is Roadcase NOT MONSTERS. My journey continues ; ) Thanks for the alert though.
Awww, that sucks. Sorry.
Quoted from delt31:so the translite on marco is Roadcase NOT MONSTERS. My journey continues ; ) Thanks for the alert though.
You're not gonna own it long enough to worry it man! Haha (friendly poke!)
Quoted from Fezmid:Awww, that sucks. Sorry.
Actually - great news. They confirmed it was monsters, the person made a mistake. I'm all good!
Quoted from Dee-Bow:You're not gonna own it long enough to worry it man! Haha (friendly poke!)
haha - I do lose interest quick but for the price point and fun factor, this pin is as safe as you can get when you're owned by me!
Wow! Stern let them sell the Monsters translite...I see many switching soon! Glad you found what you wanted.
Quoted from dnapac:Wow! Stern let them sell the Monsters translite...I see many switching soon! Glad you found what you wanted.
I don’t. Not a fan of the “monsters”. Rather have the Pro translite. Now, if you can find someone selling Master of Puppets....
Quoted from swampfire:Agreed. I’d rather give that $150 to Dirty Donny for my blacklight poster obsession / collection.
Yeah...I couldn’t resist and picked up a couple from him at TPF. So now I need a proper black light. Probably gonna display my vasoline glass as well. Google that if you have never heard of it.
I was printing apron cards for my B/W pins and I realized the cards in my Met Pro were not the same shape and are only 3"x5".
The ones I see online are wider, and would need to squished/stretched to print 3x5 shape. Does anyone make apron cards that are the right shape?
Damn Delt, been on the same hunt forever on a Prem translite too!
They indicate sold out now but glad you found it. At least I know it’s not impossible!
I’ve been having an intermittent problem with the trough switches. A couple times a ball would drain and would not be recognized so another doesn’t exit into the shooter lane. After a few ball searches the ball/round will end and a new ball will eject for the next ball/round. I went to switch test and ejected balls while watching the test screen. After a number of ejects I noticed at one point non of the switches registered. I then put the ball in the drain and they all registered again. I adjusted the switches and it seems to work better, but it did happen again.
So getting to the question, what could cause all the switches not register at one point or could it just be I need to tweak the switches some more?
I would also check the following depending on the age of your game
- are any of the balls magnetized?
- are there any flat spots in the trough where a really slow moving ball is getting hung up on and not triggering a switch?
Quoted from Monk:I’ve been having an intermittent problem with the trough switches. A couple times a ball would drain and would not be recognized so another doesn’t exit into the shooter lane. After a few ball searches the ball/round will end and a new ball will eject for the next ball/round. I went to switch test and ejected balls while watching the test screen. After a number of ejects I noticed at one point non of the switches registered. I then put the ball in the drain and they all registered again. I adjusted the switches and it seems to work better, but it did happen again.
So getting to the question, what could cause all the switches not register at one point or could it just be I need to tweak the switches some more?
Reconnect the large "Z" connector for the ball trough. Also reconnect the two smaller connectors on the opto boards on the trough.
Quoted from j_m_:I would also check the following depending on the age of your game
- are any of the balls magnetized?
- are there any flat spots in the trough where a really slow moving ball is getting hung up on and not triggering a switch?
I checked the balls and they are fine. They were installed about a month ago and are carbon. The trough looks ok, but I’ll double check. The game is only about 8-9 months old.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Reconnect the large "Z" connector for the ball trough. Also reconnect the two smaller connectors on the opto boards on the trough.
I’ll do this. Is the “z” connector under the playfield next to the trough?
Quoted from j_m_:I would also check the following depending on the age of your game
- are any of the balls magnetized?
- are there any flat spots in the trough where a really slow moving ball is getting hung up on and not triggering a switch?
So, although I checked the magnatism I apparently didn’t do a good job at it. After further inspection this morning I could see the balls weren’t moving all the way down the trough after the first ball was ejected. I took the balls out and put them on a table. I touched one ball to another and pulled it on the table. The second ball stayed attached to the ball I was pulling. This only happened for one of the balls, but it was enough to have a problem. Thank you for all the help. Great community.
Quoted from Monk:So, although I checked the magnatism I apparently didn’t do a good job at it. After further inspection this morning I could see the balls weren’t moving all the way down the trough after the first ball was ejected. I took the balls out and put them on a table. I touched one ball to another and pulled it on the table. The second ball stayed attached to the ball I was pulling. This only happened for one of the balls, but it was enough to have a problem. Thank you for all the help. Great community.
Nothing worse than getting your balls magnatized.
Depending on when the license ends they will run them if they can sell them. It’s been in production for like 4 -5 years now...long run for a modern pin. Would be curious to know if it has finally outsold AC/DC. My guess is yes but this could be the last year they are run and in 3-4 years it could be an early vault edition.
This is by far the most active owners thread. And every couple months it seems there are waves of new owners posting and for about a month all the old issues and must have mods are discussed again.
Last run has been posted several times with only more runs to follow. My suggestion is anyone wanting one with cash ready to go look for one now...otherwise save up and find a used one. Plenty out there for sure. Otherwise you could be waiting a few years if they run a vault.
Quoted from swampfire:It’s crazy for sure. When I started this thread, I thought Stern would run Metallica for a year or so. Now it looks like MET might be the last SAM-based pin off the line.
Better late than never. I'm in the club finally. Build date Sept 2017.
Going back to the ColorDMD question, I wanted to throw in my two cents. I've only had experience with the LCD in the past, so I decided to try the LED on Metallica. The LED is the same size basically as the original DMD, so the fit is amazingly clean and it is not offset back into the head at all. When I first started using it, it looked like total shit. Some of the shades in the animations were not even visible. It took me a ton of time to get the contrast, RGB and brightness correct. Once that was done it still didn't look very good because there was reflection from the playfield lights onto the display itself, the black was not very black and the colors were *too* sharp for my taste. Not to mention there was reflection on the playfield glass which I know doesn't happen with the LCD version. I read that the Comet glare guard helped these problems, so I put one it and bam! It looks a whole lot better now. The blacks are blacker and there is no reflection either way. Also the colors are toned down just a bit.
In the end, the LCD might look a little better still but the clean installation of the LED is sure nice. A week ago I was thinking about trying to trade the LED for an LCD, but now I am going to just stick with what I've got. It is not big enough difference at this point to warrant the trouble and I don't like the hi-res mode on most games.
Quoted from John_I:Going back to the ColorDMD question, I wanted to throw in my two cents. I've only had experience with the LCD in the past, so I decided to try the LED on Metallica. The LED is the same size basically as the original DMD, so the fit is amazingly clean and it is not offset back into the head at all. When I first started using it, it looked like total shit. Some of the shades in the animations were not even visible. It took me a ton of time to get the contrast, RGB and brightness correct. Once that was done it still didn't look very good because there was reflection from the playfield lights onto the display itself, the black was not very black and the colors were *too* sharp for my taste. Not to mention there was reflection on the playfield glass which I know doesn't happen with the LCD version. I read that the Comet glare guard helped these problems, so I put one it and bam! It looks a whole lot better now. The blacks are blacker and there is no reflection either way. Also the colors are toned down just a bit.
In the end, the LCD might look a little better still but the clean installation of the LED is sure nice. A week ago I was thinking about trying to trade the LED for an LCD, but now I am going to just stick with what I've got. It is not big enough difference at this point to warrant the trouble and I don't like the hi-res mode on most games.
and a Bent Plastic helps with the blacks but it only covers about 75% of the led dmd.
Quoted from John_I:Going back to the ColorDMD question, I wanted to throw in my two cents. I've only had experience with the LCD in the past, so I decided to try the LED on Metallica. The LED is the same size basically as the original DMD, so the fit is amazingly clean and it is not offset back into the head at all. When I first started using it, it looked like total shit. Some of the shades in the animations were not even visible. It took me a ton of time to get the contrast, RGB and brightness correct. Once that was done it still didn't look very good because there was reflection from the playfield lights onto the display itself, the black was not very black and the colors were *too* sharp for my taste. Not to mention there was reflection on the playfield glass which I know doesn't happen with the LCD version. I read that the Comet glare guard helped these problems, so I put one it and bam! It looks a whole lot better now. The blacks are blacker and there is no reflection either way. Also the colors are toned down just a bit.
In the end, the LCD might look a little better still but the clean installation of the LED is sure nice. A week ago I was thinking about trying to trade the LED for an LCD, but now I am going to just stick with what I've got. It is not big enough difference at this point to warrant the trouble and I don't like the hi-res mode on most games.
Can you share your settings and the link for the glare? I have a LED which I would never buy (LCD is so much better) but it's DE and didn't want to break/perm modify it.
Quoted from delt31:Can you share your settings and the link for the glare? I have a LED which I would never buy (LCD is so much better) but it's DE and didn't want to break/perm modify it.
Some quotes from the LED vs LCD thread straight from ColorDMD:
Quoted from Dmod:The menus should be orange when RGB/RBG is set correctly (instead of magenta).
Quoted from Dmod:Brightness doesn't affect the rendering or picture quality. Contrast applies a different nonlinear mapping to the brightness levels. Lower contrast settings give better darks (closer to black). Higher contrast gives more contrast relative to black (OFF) but compresses the levels toward maximum brightness.
Right now I am set at Contrast of 8 and Brightness of 9. Before the glare guard I had the brightness a little lower.
Quoted from John_I:Going back to the ColorDMD question, I wanted to throw in my two cents. I've only had experience with the LCD in the past, so I decided to try the LED on Metallica. The LED is the same size basically as the original DMD, so the fit is amazingly clean and it is not offset back into the head at all. When I first started using it, it looked like total shit. Some of the shades in the animations were not even visible. It took me a ton of time to get the contrast, RGB and brightness correct. Once that was done it still didn't look very good because there was reflection from the playfield lights onto the display itself, the black was not very black and the colors were *too* sharp for my taste. Not to mention there was reflection on the playfield glass which I know doesn't happen with the LCD version. I read that the Comet glare guard helped these problems, so I put one it and bam! It looks a whole lot better now. The blacks are blacker and there is no reflection either way. Also the colors are toned down just a bit.
In the end, the LCD might look a little better still but the clean installation of the LED is sure nice. A week ago I was thinking about trying to trade the LED for an LCD, but now I am going to just stick with what I've got. It is not big enough difference at this point to warrant the trouble and I don't like the hi-res mode on most games.
Great write up thank you,
Would someone be kind enough to post or link to a photo from side of installed MET LCD please ?
Curious to know how far back it sits ?
Would really like to see some pics of LED on MET if possible
"the LCD might look a little better still but the clean installation of the LED is sure nice"
Cheers,
Ando
Quoted from RA77:Great write up thank you,
Would someone be kind enough to post or link to a photo from side of installed MET LCD please ?
Curious to know how far back it sits ?
Would really like to see some pics of LED on MET if possible
"the LCD might look a little better still but the clean installation of the LED is sure nice"
Cheers,
Ando
Here’s the LCD. I tried to show the gap on the sides. It looks better than normal install because I installed black electrical tape to hide some of the gap. The screen also sticks above the display window and you center the actual image on the display window. This doesn’t bother me as you don’t see it once the translite is installed. It was super easy to install.
AAF4ED0A-966E-41D9-9C3B-B138A5732850 (resized).jpeg
Perfect !
Thanks for the great photos !
The LCD looks really smooth
I'm really fussy and thought the screen being so far recessed would be annoying to my OCD
I doesn't look to bad at all, I think I could live with it and I guess would be hard to notice front on.
Anyone know of plans for a flush mount LCD ?
Would really like to see comparison photos of LED
Thanks again for helping out dnapac !
btw your Monsters looks Awesome !
Quoted from RA77:Perfect !
Thanks for the great photos !
The LCD looks really smooth
I'm really fussy and thought the screen being so far recessed would be annoying to my OCD
I doesn't look to bad at all, I think I could live with it and I guess would be hard to notice front on.
Anyone know of plans for a flush mount LCD ?
Would really like to see comparison photos of LED
Thanks again for helping out dnapac !
btw your Monsters looks Awesome !
Love the Monsters translite...paid a ton for it, but worth it. Macrospecialties.com supposedly is selling them, but says out of stock...ask delt31 if they got theirs. Last I talked to Stern, they said they wouldn’t sell any. The color dmd is the best mod...and I have quite a few. I’m not a fan of dots...so the lcd looks sweet...highly recommend it. If you like dots, lcd can be set that way.
Quoted from RA77:Perfect !
Thanks for the great photos !
The LCD looks really smooth
I'm really fussy and thought the screen being so far recessed would be annoying to my OCD
I doesn't look to bad at all, I think I could live with it and I guess would be hard to notice front on.
Anyone know of plans for a flush mount LCD ?
Would really like to see comparison photos of LED
Thanks again for helping out dnapac !
btw your Monsters looks Awesome !
The gap with the LCD colordmd triggered my OCD as well. I bought some self adhesive foam weatherstripping from Home Depot. It works really well to hide all unwanted stuff.
Hey guys, hopefully I’ll be able to join the Metallica family as well very soon. Hope to have my MET arrived within two weeks or so.
Now I’m desperately searching for the snake mod but specially the “3D version”. Any ideas where I might find it?
Also the snake fangs seem to become quite rare. Do they break easily? Otherwise I might consider passing on them.
Thanks!
Quoted from Koos:Do the snake fangs break easily? Otherwise I might consider passing on them.
Thanks!
I was worried about this too, from some postings in here, but I have had my snake fangs installed for about 6 months and haven't had any issues with them.
Got mine at Mezelmods.com and I definitely needed the offset screwdriver they recommend for installation.
Quoted from Koos:Now I’m desperately searching for the snake mod but specially the “3D version”. Any ideas where I might find it?
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/metallica-3d-snake-mod-for-stern-pinball
Grab it quick, while it's back in stock.
Quoted from moonduckie78:https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/metallica-3d-snake-mod-for-stern-pinball
Grab it quick, while it's back in stock.
Thanks! It isn't listed under Metallica mods so I couldn't find it.
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