(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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There are 16869 posts in this topic. You are on page 250 of 338.
#12451 1 year ago

Does someone have underneath apron decals for sale (cannot buy on Ebay as the seller does not ship to Europe)?

Found them.

Thanks,
Leon
--------------------------------------------------------------

#12452 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballRulez:

Does someone have underneath apron decals for sale (cannot buy on Ebay as the seller does not ship to Europe)?
If so please send me a PM with details.
Thanks,
Leon

Can you get a good copy and get a set printed for you locally at a printer

#12453 1 year ago

My 3D printer likes to be efficient so we made 4. I have three left I can ship to people. Anyone want one?

4A412CF8-3919-42AB-90E7-5CEDE946DA33 (resized).jpeg

#12454 1 year ago

Okay so I lifted the playfield last night on my Metallica, didn't have my multimeter with me, but coil visibly looks okay, I resoldered the wires just to be safe and no change. Followed the wires to connectors and everything visually appears okay. The board looks okay. I tried checking the manual but I don't even see that listed. I'm assuming if the transistor on the board blew the coil would just keep firing until a fuse blew and all my fuses look good so I am assuming it must just be the coin itself for some reason....does that logic make sense?
pasted_image (resized).png

#12455 1 year ago

okay founded another list further into the manual that I didn't see last night.

pasted_image (resized).png

#12456 1 year ago

Hi, I own a Metallica road case pinball machine. The hammer magnet works poorly (I have the correct Rev C card).
I read that there was in the menu, the 89 trimming, what is it?
Thank you for your help
Or is there a material solution for the magnet to capture the ball better?

#12457 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

okay founded another list further into the manual that I didn't see last night.

The power is yellow/violet, and connects to a few coils. Make sure that isn’t broke somewhere. So just trace that to a few coils to see.

Then I think the transistor is suspect. You can use a dmm and get a test on it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-test-a-transistor

Also make sure the j connectors in the back box have the wire for the driver of the coil, correctly punched in.

#12458 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

The power is yellow/violet, and connects to a few coils. Make sure that isn’t broke somewhere. So just trace that to a few coils to see.
Then I think the transistor is suspect. You can use a dmm and get a test on it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-test-a-transistor
Also make sure the j connectors in the back box have the wire for the driver of the coil, correctly punched in.

Thanks I went through and tested all other coils and everything is working properly. I'll take my multimeter with me tonight and test the coil and transistor, thanks for the help.

#12459 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

My 3D printer likes to be efficient so we made 4. I have three left I can ship to people. Anyone want one?

All are spoken for!

#12460 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Thanks I went through and tested all other coils and everything is working properly. I'll take my multimeter with me tonight and test the coil and transistor, thanks for the help.

woot woot! Let us know what you find out! I assume this is one of your routed games?

#12461 1 year ago

Yeah this has been on location since May or June, first issue other than a spotlight led falling out or a rubber being knocked off the left ramp post. Obviously still playable and I actually like the post being disabled but for new players it makes the game hard

#12462 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Yeah this has been on location since May or June, first issue other than a spotlight led falling out or a rubber being knocked off the left ramp post. Obviously still playable and I actually like the post being disabled but for new players it makes the game hard

Many don't even know the game had/has or disable it. But it does help slow down the orbit shots unless you enable the drop of it.

Don't forget the DMM in your backpack when you go walk to the location hahahha Heard you live close :-p

#12463 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Many don't even know the game had/has or disable it. But it does help slow down the orbit shots unless you enable the drop of it.
Don't forget the DMM in your backpack when you go walk to the location hahahha Heard you live close :-p

I do, but I'm still lazy and drive, plus its been freezing around these parts the last month.

#12464 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Thanks I went through and tested all other coils and everything is working properly. I'll take my multimeter with me tonight and test the coil and transistor, thanks for the help.

OK, I first saw the "loop up post" listed on the "6 transistor driver board", but it appears that is for the PREM/LE. Now I see the first half of the service manual is for the PREM/LE. The second half is for the Pro.

Q7 is correct for the Pro which I see you have listed in your collection, and connector J8-pin8 is the control for the coil and J10 is power.

#12465 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

OK, I first saw the "loop up post" listed on the "6 transistor driver board", but it appears that is for the PREM/LE. Now I see the first half of the service manual is for the PREM/LE. The second half is for the Pro.
Q7 is correct for the Pro which I see you have listed in your collection, and connector J8-pin8 is the control for the coil and J10 is power.

Thank you, I will check out those specific points.

#12466 1 year ago

Had an awesome game going ... then magnets stopped working.

Replaced magnet fuse but could hear a magnet come on when I turned on the game ... isolated to coffin magnet and disconnected magnet.

That's when the magic smoke came out

DSC00317 (resized).JPG

DSC00319 (resized).JPG

#12467 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Had an awesome game going ... then magnets stopped working.
Replaced magnet fuse but could hear a magnet come on when I turned on the game ... isolated to coffin magnet and disconnected magnet.
That's when the magic smoke came out

I've had my fuse blow twice and I seem to remember that it was when the coffin energized. Has your blown before?

#12468 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

All are spoken for!

One is back up for grabs!

#12469 1 year ago
Quoted from Roostking:

I've had my fuse blow twice and I seem to remember that it was when the coffin energized. Has your blown before?

Nope, this was the first time it blew

#12470 1 year ago

More freebies coming soon.... Can you guess what these are?

Met-slingprots (resized).png

#12471 1 year ago

Slingshot protectors?

#12472 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Slingshot protectors?

Bingo!
Printing them out now in transparent filament. I'll take pictures of them installed and lit up when ready.

#12473 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

More freebies coming soon.... Can you guess what these are?

I could use some of those, let me know when they are finished!!

#12474 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Bingo!
Printing them out now in transparent filament. I'll take pictures of them installed and lit up when ready.

Looks to be miles better than the washers Stern includes. To their credit though, the washers are better than nothing.

#12475 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Bingo!
Printing them out now in transparent filament. I'll take pictures of them installed and lit up when ready.

Did I win a free set? I would love to have those!

#12476 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

One is back up for grabs!

Sorry for late post. All spoken for

#12477 1 year ago

Just bought and installed a shaker motor for my MET pro. Are there some settings for this thing to dictate when and how it comes on? To me it comes on too much and it's more than just a vibration, it rattles the cabinet glass! I'd like to calm it down a bit.

#12478 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

Are there some settings for this thing to dictate when and how it comes on? To me it comes on too much and it's more than just a vibration, it rattles the cabinet glass! I'd like to calm it down a bit.

Yes, there is a software setting for how frequently it comes on and you can physically change the offset of the shaker weights so they are not so rough. I believe the closer you make the weights to 180 opposite each other, the less it rumbles.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-there-a-shaker-motor-power-adjustment-not-for-how-often-used

#12479 1 year ago

Ever since we replaced our playfield, we've been having trouble with a ball getting stuck in the trough. Generally 3 balls make it all the way down, but about 40% of the time, the last ball stops 1-2cm before it touches the other three. Small nudges don't really push it either, we usually have to nudge hard enough to cause a tilt, or open the coin door and use a small object to push the last ball down.

Any suggestions?

Edit: +pic

IMG_1794 (resized).jpg

#12480 1 year ago
Quoted from Oshara:

Ever since we replaced our playfield, we've been having trouble with a ball getting stuck in the trough. Generally 3 balls make it all the way down, but about 40% of the time, the last ball stops 1-2cm before it touches the other three.

Sometimes a microswitch will become very stiff and hold up a ball without activating. Check and see if that switch clicks and moves freely like the others there.

If you cant adjust it, you may need to replace it.

#12481 1 year ago
Quoted from Oshara:

Ever since we replaced our playfield, we've been having trouble with a ball getting stuck in the trough. Generally 3 balls make it all the way down, but about 40% of the time, the last ball stops 1-2cm before it touches the other three. Small nudges don't really push it either, we usually have to nudge hard enough to cause a tilt, or open the coin door and use a small object to push the last ball down.
Any suggestions?

I had the same thing with my SMVE right outta the box. Sounds like you need to adjust the trough switch arms slightly so that they are slightly lower to allow the balls to roll down and not bounce back.

#12482 1 year ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

I had the same thing with my SMVE right outta the box. Sounds like you need to adjust the trough switch arms slightly so that they are slightly lower to allow the balls to roll down and not bounce back.

And I had it in my AC/DC VE. The microswitch activation arms were curved up so far that they stopped a slow moving ball from registering. A small tweak to bend the arms with a switch adjuster cured it quickly.

Zooming into the picture above shows the bend in the blade. And therefore the roller is too high and holding up the ball. Look right into the lower window shown here and you will see it.

IMG_5985 (resized).PNG

#12483 1 year ago

Thanks Neal, Rick, and Dave. I’ll try to adjust the switch. Appreciate the advice!

#12484 1 year ago
Quoted from Oshara:

Ever since we replaced our playfield, we've been having trouble with a ball getting stuck in the trough. Generally 3 balls make it all the way down, but about 40% of the time, the last ball stops 1-2cm before it touches the other three. Small nudges don't really push it either, we usually have to nudge hard enough to cause a tilt, or open the coin door and use a small object to push the last ball down.
Any suggestions?
Edit: +pic

Yes! Same thing with mine. I think I just adjusted it down so it was easier to roll over.

#12485 1 year ago

OK, got the slingshot plastic protectors finished up. Had to make a some corrections... I'd made a couple stupid drafting errors. Anyway, here they are installed:

Met-protectors-installed (resized).jpg

protector-left-installed (resized).jpg

They spread the light nicely and give a cool edge glow. Looks pretty classy.
Here's what they look like just off the printer:

Met-protectors (resized).jpg

And here's one lit up, before putting the sling plastic on top:

justprotector-lit (resized).jpg

You can download the STL files from my site if you'd like to print your own: http://scoresaves.com/pinball/Met_slingprotectors.7z
There are separate STL files for each side. I print them one at a time to keep the prints cleaner (I'm guessing you probably don't need to do that with high-end printers). The protectors are 2mm thick. If you prefer them thicker/thinner, just scale the Z. For FFF printer settings, I use the maximum infill (so they're as solid as possible), 0.2mm layer height, and "thick shells" (which creates an extra run around the perimeter). The material I'm using is transparent ABS. You could use nylon, PETG, PLA... whatever floats your boat. And, of course, you could print them in whatever color you like. Personally, I don't like altering artwork colors, so I stick with clear. When they're done, I like to sand the edge a bit to make them perfectly smooth and even.

What? Don't have your own 3D printer yet? I can crank out a few of these for folks that want them. Hit me up with a PM. Let's say $20 shipped (in the US). Offer valid until I run out of clear filament, get tired of making them, or the printer breaks down (which happens all too often!).

Tip jar: https://www.paypal.me/scoresaves

#12486 1 year ago
Quoted from Oshara:

Thanks Neal, Rick, and Dave. I’ll try to adjust the switch. Appreciate the advice!

If the adjustment doesn't work. Rather than buy a new one, swap switches 1 & 4. The extra weight of the balls will most likely cause the stiff switch (previously switch 4 now switch 1) to register

#12487 1 year ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

If the adjustment doesn't work. Rather than buy a new one, swap switches 1 & 4. The extra weight of the balls will most likely cause the stiff switch (previously switch 4 now switch 1) to register

Another great tip thanks! Adjusted the switch and looked good through the ~50 tests I did. Hopefully it’s solved but will try this if the problem persists.

#12488 1 year ago

Hi guys,
I've got a question for Pro Led owners. Does this version have leds mounted on a card for some inserts? I had a Met Pro in the past with a full leds conversion, but i would like to know if Stern put some of this leds/card on the Pro Led? And if it's easy to replace with leds bulbs? I like to choose colors myself and with this kind of leds it's a bit tricky
Thanks

#12489 1 year ago
Quoted from Shadrac:

Hi guys,
I've got a question for Pro Led owners. Does this version have leds mounted on a card for some inserts? I had a Met Pro in the past with a full leds conversion, but i would like to know if Stern put some of this leds/card on the Pro Led? And if it's easy to replace with leds bulbs? I like to choose colors myself and with this kind of leds it's a bit tricky
Thanks

I have a pro led. You can change whichever bulb you want. They are either 555’s or 44/47’s. When you say “card” do you mean an led on those little pcb’s?

#12490 1 year ago

Yes, pcb. I forget the english name.
Thanks for the answer

#12491 1 year ago
Quoted from Shadrac:

Yes, pcb. I forget the english name.
Thanks for the answer

Haha no problem. I figured that’s what you meant

#12492 1 year ago

Aha you have very good taste, Met and BSD

"They say you are a man of good... taste"

#12493 1 year ago

It was a bad coil just in case anyone wanted the conclusion to the mystery. Not sure what caused it and visibly it still looks okay but it just was dead :-/

#12494 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

It was a bad coil just in case anyone wanted the conclusion to the mystery. Not sure what caused it and visibly it still looks okay but it just was dead :-/

Taylor Reese looked at it funny!

#12495 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

It was a bad coil just in case anyone wanted the conclusion to the mystery. Not sure what caused it and visibly it still looks okay but it just was dead :-/

Was there a diode across the leads?

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Taylor Reese looked at it funny!

Damn it Taylor

#12496 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Was there a diode across the leads?

Damn it Taylor

No its a non-diode coil

#12497 1 year ago

mattosborn Thanks for sharing the printer file! I was needing to get around to this... Now I don't have to

-Jim

#12498 1 year ago

So, it looks like my LE will be used in an upcoming tournament. Anyone know of a full-proof way to prevent the Sparky lock on issue where it sometimes locks on the coil when you open the coin door? I've had this happen several times as you hear the "click" of the coil when I open the door. I'll turn the game off at that point and all is good. In a tournament turning the game off isn't really an option and I don't want to just disconnect that feature for the show/tournament.

I bought the board and coil from pinball life but I'm not sure if that is a fix or just a replacement as the board looks the same as what is in my game now. I'm thinking of just locking the interlock switch to stay closed when the door is opened but am open to other suggestions.

#12499 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I'm thinking of just locking the interlock switch to stay closed when the door is opened but am open to other suggestions.

That's exactly what I was going to suggest. Just stick some tape over it for the duration of the tournament.

-1
#12500 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

So, it looks like my LE will be used in an upcoming tournament. Anyone know of a full-proof way to prevent the Sparky lock on issue where it sometimes locks on the coil when you open the coin door? I've had this happen several times as you hear the "click" of the coil when I open the door. I'll turn the game off at that point and all is good. In a tournament turning the game off isn't really an option and I don't want to just disconnect that feature for the show/tournament.
I bought the board and coil from pinball life but I'm not sure if that is a fix or just a replacement as the board looks the same as what is in my game now. I'm thinking of just locking the interlock switch to stay closed when the door is opened but am open to other suggestions.

The new step up driver board is a definite fix for the issue. You should see that the new board has a 20V input pin while the old board does not. Swapping this out fixes the issue (not sure if 20V is already present at the step-up board plug for old games, otherwise you'll need to route a flasher wire to it).

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