(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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There are 17219 posts in this topic. You are on page 203 of 345.
#10101 2 years ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

How does the Pinovator board change the sound from say a easy hookup with the alligator clips on the speaker to the sub? Is it really noticeable and in what way? Clearer, more bass, more treble? I think it sounds pretty good with just the alligator clips, what am I missing out on? Thanks.

Spend the 35 bucks, easy install connect sub and rock it out. The sound is clear loud and awesome! Way better sound that alligator clips.

Do it today!

#10102 2 years ago
Quoted from Samerica:

Can someone please post a link to purchase that board?
Is it difficult to hook up, or plug and play easy?
Thanks so much!

Heres a link to the sam pinnovators board that just does the audio out for the subwoofer. They have another similar board that is part of their headphone coin door mod too but that is $$$$

http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=38&osCsid=adm8uq1rvlp6um9sf4fpj2pof6

I used this sub referred many times on pinside
amazon.com link »

And of course the awesome TLS and spinner stuff from time bandit.
http://www.redshiftled.com.au

#10103 2 years ago

I still don't understand what sounds better about the pinnovators board for a sub? My sub is connected directly to the cabinet speaker. Super easy, free to install, and sounds amazing.

#10104 2 years ago

So as a temporary fix while I wait for my correct colorDMD power cable to arrive, I'm going to make my own so I can get it up and running for the weekend. I just need to know what pins to use on the colorDMD board. Can someone take a picture of their power wires so I can see what colors go to what pins?

Thanks.

#10105 2 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Heres a link to the sam pinnovators board that just does the audio out for the subwoofer. They have another similar board that is part of their headphone coin door mod too but that is $$$$
http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=38&osCsid=adm8uq1rvlp6um9sf4fpj2pof6
I used this sub referred many times on pinside
amazon.com link »
And of course the awesome TLS and spinner stuff from time bandit.
http://www.redshiftled.com.au

#10106 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I still don't understand what sounds better about the pinnovators board for a sub? My sub is connected directly to the cabinet speaker. Super easy, free to install, and sounds amazing.

Me too. I l also make my own headphone jack using the existing button plug under the Start button. Have to to it for Met, but did it for GoT and TWD. Only costs a few bucks for a 1/8" male/female 6' extension cable.

#10107 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You should put an led strip in it and light the whole thing up.

When I made this a few years back, I didn't know about the small LED strips from Comet. This isn't finished yet for MET either. I like it there and it makes sense over the Mystery since that shows a skull pile. But it's like a little too empty in that spot and I have a few ideas to make it more fleshed out.

#10108 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I still don't understand what sounds better about the pinnovators board for a sub? My sub is connected directly to the cabinet speaker. Super easy, free to install, and sounds amazing.

May be nothing diff. Ive never tried it using alligator clips on the cab speaker.

#10109 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I just installed a green spring last night and it completely took care of my crazy airballs coming out of the shooter lane. But, now a super skill shot to the mystery hole is far too easy. A full plunge bounces the ball off both flippers and directly into the hole 99% of the time. Not much of a "skill shot" if you ask me. I'm going to try a standard spring which has less tension than a green and see how that works out.
My auto plunger still produces airballs sometimes. I'm still going to look into that problem.

Gray 5V
Black Ground
Gray/Yellow 12V

Double-check all voltages with a DMM before applying power. If you misconnect any voltages, you may damage the ColorDMD control board.

#10110 2 years ago
Quoted from Dmod:

Gray 5V
Black Ground
Gray/Yellow 12V
Double-check all voltages with a DMM before applying power. If you misconnect any voltages, you may damage the ColorDMD control board.

Thank you for this info. Planetary just called me and they overnighting me the correct parts. Their customer service is great!

#10111 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I still don't understand what sounds better about the pinnovators board for a sub? My sub is connected directly to the cabinet speaker. Super easy, free to install, and sounds amazing.

Yeah that's all I've ever done with all my pins. Alligator clips and speaker wire, clipped directly to the internal sub. Absolutely no need for an extra board.

#10112 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

When I made this a few years back, I didn't know about the small LED strips from Comet. This isn't finished yet for MET either. I like it there and it makes sense over the Mystery since that shows a skull pile. But it's like a little too empty in that spot and I have a few ideas to make it more fleshed out.

That's what I thought. Carry on.

#10113 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I still don't understand what sounds better about the pinnovators board for a sub? My sub is connected directly to the cabinet speaker. Super easy, free to install, and sounds amazing.

I had it that way on my games till they came out with the board. When I put the board in and turned the game on I had to jump under the game and turn the sub down cuz it was WAY louder and less muddy then with the alligator clips. The board lets the sub be a sub not a mix of sub and mids. Others may not be able to tell the difference but I sure can. My 2 cents.

#10114 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I had it that way on my games till they came out with the board. When I put the board in and turned the game on I had to jump under the game and turn the sub down cuz it was WAY louder and less muddy then with the alligator clips. The board lets the sub be a sub not a mix of sub and mids. Others may not be able to tell the difference but I sure can. My 2 cents.

Are you saying the board includes a low pass filter? Maybe that is the only audible difference then. I'm happy with the direct connection, sounds great.

#10115 2 years ago

Ill run some speaker wire and test.

#10116 2 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

May be nothing diff. Ive never tried it using alligator clips on the cab speaker.

There was a long discussion regarding the differences, but I don't remember if it was this thread or another. It got very technical, and the audiophiles in the thread gave actual reasons, not just "It sounds better." Just like the discussion here, some people said they could clearly hear the difference while others said they couldn't. I wish I could find that discussion.

In my experience, I had alligator clips on my METLE for about 3 years. Sounded great. When I got my MET Pro, I used the alligator clips at first, and it still sounded great. After reading the discussion about the sound board adapter, I switched, but it still sounded the same. Sounded great, but still sounded the same. I didn't need to turn down my sub.

#10117 2 years ago

agreed. I think theres a separate thread for that on here someplace.

Lots of the audiophile talk is over my head. So i figured id take the advice of those in the know and it was worth the 35 bucks to do it right.

With met having those 2 white boxes on the audio cables near where the cable connects to the sam board, the pinnovators board required me to remove a factory zip tie from the harness to allow some space to make it so wires dont bind.. not a huge deal but thought it was worth mentioning.

#10119 2 years ago

I added a red 3-LED under the skull pile, so that's done. I have a few other ideas too add there to build it out a little bit.

Then I added colored 3-LED strips under the cross, chair, coffin and snake insert and that looks 100% better now. I used a bright white strip under the electric chair because I do not light blue inserts at all, too jarring to my eyes in a pinball machine.

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#10120 2 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

You are tapping a direct board to receive a "pure" mono signal (that is what the Pinnovators SAM sub board does, there is no amplification) that has no interference (essentially you are running two speaker sets), versus piggybacking. It has nothing to do with using shielded RCA connectors, which split the signal back again from the 3.5mm male connector.
Think of this way:
If you play music on a set of speakers that are already amplified, and then clip alligator clips on the back of the speakers to run more speakers off of those speakers what happens?
SIGNAL DEGRADATION and loss of amplification.
You can actually pick it up with your ears if you listen closely.
When a person wants to run additional speakers from a main sound system they usually end up using a dedicated amplifier board which provides independent outputs.
Same concept.
The subwoofer can still boost the signal, but not nearly has high as a pure signal that has not been touched.
That is why a small subwoofer can sound "mighty" by using the board instead of alligator clips, as it is just being used as it was supposed to be in the first place.
Many stereo systems have external dedicated subwoofer ports for the same reason.
(Well, that is not entirely true there is amplification on the MPU board but not nearly as high as a proper stereo amplifier, which is clearly demonstrated by the use of improved speakers such as Pinball Pro, which uses a control board)
I cannot speak for Pinnovators multi-subwoofer "black box", as I do not have one to review the internals beyond the website description.

I found this post from about a year ago. At the volume some of us have our games, we might not be able to hear the difference. Maybe at a higher volume it would be more noticeable.

#10121 2 years ago

Thanks! I didn't see your post regarding the other thread when I posted BlackKnight's reply above.

Edit: I read through that thread, but I didn't see the answer as to "why" the sound adapter is better. I think BlackKnight's answer makes sense, but might not be enough of a difference in sound for most of us to notice.

#10122 2 years ago

I shot a quick video that demonstrates how to use a loop pass to set yourself up for a strobing super skill shot on the left side of the playfield ...

#10123 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I shot a quick video that demonstrates how to use a loop pass to set yourself up for a strobing super skill shot on the left side of the playfield ...

How do you get the ball to go around the entire orbit on the plunge? The post on top always pops up on mine and the ball always goes into the pops?

#10124 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

How do you get the ball to go around the entire orbit on the plunge? The post on top always pops up on mine and the ball always goes into the pops?

You have to hold the left flipper button as you plunge the ball. This disables the post and gives you access to the super skill shot. If you hit any of the major shots before the timer runs out, you will score a super skill shot. One of the lanes will have all of the inserts flashing. This is the best one to go for, because if you hit it you will complete the entire lane in one shot (sparky, snake and grave). This will get you to both CIU and Seek and Destroy faster.

If you haven't already checked it out, I highly recommend reading through the rules. There are a lot of nuances in the code ...

http://tiltforums.com/t/metallica-wiki-rulesheet/228

#10125 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I shot a quick video that demonstrates how to use a loop pass to set yourself up for a strobing super skill shot on the left side of the playfield ...
» YouTube video

Great video! I need to practice that.

#10126 2 years ago

I hope it's cool to ask this here. I'm wanting to purchase a Metallica Pro and wondering if it is better to buy one new or HUO?
My questions is not from a cost standpoint, but more about the quality of the machine. Is it better to get one before Stern changed how they clearcoat the playfields?

Thanks!

#10127 2 years ago

Anyone decide the plastic between the left orbit and the drop targets was lacking a light under it? My eye was always drawn there thinking there was a bulb out. Not anymore.

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#10128 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Anyone decide the plastic between the left orbit and the drop targets was lacking a light under it? My eye was always drawn there thinking there was a bulb out. Not anymore.

That drives me crazy too....Is there a hole under there to run wire to a new socket?

#10129 2 years ago

backyardace
I think wooden backbox met pros and metal back box met pro leds are both fine. Ive heard of some wiring differences like fewer flashers behind the back stop on met pro leds. But those are in significant.

Met pro leds have a sticker/artwork around the dmd that the wooden ones dont.

It really comes down to if the one you find used is close enough for you to inspect it personally vs buying NIB which shoukd be pristeen and new and shiny. But may have ghosting clear issues.

Either way glad you are considering coming to the met family! It really is an awesome pin

#10130 2 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

That drives me crazy too....Is there a hole under there to run wire to a new socket?

I didn't install a new socket, I used a white, LED strip there. The wires run under the play Field behind the standup target and then alligator clip to the GI bulb closest. Quick and easy and a real Improvement.

#10131 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I didn't install a new socket, I used a white, LED strip there. The wires run under the play Field behind the standup target and then alligator clip to the GI bulb closest. Quick and easy and a real Improvement.

Nicely done! I've been thinking about doing something similar for a long time.

#10132 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Anyone decide the plastic between the left orbit and the drop targets was lacking a light under it? My eye was always drawn there thinking there was a bulb out. Not anymore.

Go back a page or so, I flagged this exact same thing. No bulb on left, but right side has two.

#10133 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I didn't install a new socket, I used a white, LED strip there. The wires run under the play Field behind the standup target and then alligator clip to the GI bulb closest. Quick and easy and a real Improvement.

Did you use the matrix system connectors and strips from Comet? So you ran the wires underneath the playfield at the back there underneath that plastic? Nice addition.

#10134 2 years ago
Quoted from Backyardace:

I hope it's cool to ask this here. I'm wanting to purchase a Metallica Pro and wondering if it is better to buy one new or HUO?
My questions is not from a cost standpoint, but more about the quality of the machine. Is it better to get one before Stern changed how they clearcoat the playfields?
Thanks!

I bought a 2013 met pro huo. It's rock solid, no regrets. I had to put leds in it.

#10135 2 years ago

So I've had my premium for a week now and absolutely love it. I had a party yesterday so we really broke it in good. A few times during the night, I saw it kick 2 balls into the shooter lane. I also saw the hammer and coffin magnet drop when a ball wasn't even near it. That happened a few times as well throughout the night.

My game has a manufacture date of November 2016 so it should have the updated magnet boards in it correct? Running version 1.7.

Where should I start looking for a fix to these issues?

#10136 2 years ago

Does the silence on this thread indicate that kornfreak has ran outta questions?!? And actually playing his pin!? Woot wooot

#10137 2 years ago
Quoted from Dee-Bow:

Does the silence on this thread indicate that kornfreak has ran outta questions?!? And actually playing his pin!? Woot wooot

I hope he's the hell out of it.

#10138 2 years ago

New Metallica owner of a used Metallica.
Going through flasher test and noticed I don't see any flash with this one. Or should I say when activateing this switch the under cab lighting lights up. What exactly on the playfield should light up? The under cab lighting is a mod that was installed before I purchased.

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#10139 2 years ago

Just unboxed a Metallica Premium. And....oh....this game rocks like I couldn't have imagined. What a blast when the ball gets hammered below the playfield. I just LOVE it so much I could hammer all day long.
Traded my Hobbit LE for this baby and I don't regret it at all.

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#10140 2 years ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

New Metallica owner of a used Metallica.
Going through flasher test and noticed I don't see any flash with this one. Or should I say when activateing this switch the under cab lighting lights up. What exactly on the playfield should light up? The under cab lighting is a mod that was installed before I purchased.

The led flasher in cross is know for falling out. Check it out....

#10141 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

The led flasher in cross is know for falling out. Check it out....

It's a bugger to change though - the whole grave marker needs to come out. When I checked mine it had actually snapped in half! It obviously wasn't fitted properly, or had worked loose, and when the grave marker moved up and down it caught something.

#10142 2 years ago

Received and installed the Snake plastic and ramp decal yesterday. Very cool mod that greatly improves the look of the Snake for sure. I was able to find one on new eBay and I saved $8.

The ramp plastic is still off in the pics so the full decal can be seen. Last pic is the before.

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#10143 2 years ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

New Metallica owner of a used Metallica.
Going through flasher test and noticed I don't see any flash with this one. Or should I say when activateing this switch the under cab lighting lights up. What exactly on the playfield should light up? The under cab lighting is a mod that was installed before I purchased.

that's the flasher inside the cross..the previous owner of mine just put a dab of hot glue on the bottom to hold the light inside it.stays put!

#10144 2 years ago
Quoted from Dee-Bow:

that's the flasher inside the cross..the previous owner of mine just put a dab of hot glue on the bottom to hold the light inside it.stays put!

Mine was actually broken in pieces inside the cross, so I just replaced it with a quality Comet flasher. No problems in almost 3 years.

#10145 2 years ago

The bulb inside the cross came glued in from the factory in mine. I had to reglue a bulb in when I replaced mine with a red stacked bulb.

#10146 2 years ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Did you use the matrix system connectors and strips from Comet? So you ran the wires underneath the playfield at the back there underneath that plastic? Nice addition.

Pretty sure I documented this nearly 2 years ago. Problem with these threads that get so freaking long is you lose all the usable content in a couple of days With the matrix system it's super easy now. Just put a 3 LED strip there.

Post 2475

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/50

Also seen in that picture is the Cemetery being reversed. If you don't care about the lights in it then just break the outsides off and glue them on the opposite side. Drill a small hole in the now left hand pillar. Now when you mount it both the nuts on that plastic will be hidden. You use the nut on the right side to mount the mod and the mod covers the left nut (thus the hole). I talked to Mezel about making them this way but they were concerned with the longevity of them being mounted in this fashion (something about air balls). Had mine done this way for 2+ years and no issues. If it ever breaks I'll just reglue it since that is how they are put together in the first place.

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#10147 2 years ago

I thought I was going to have an original coffin mod when I order these:

amazon.com link »

I planned on using the plain wood one on the right and wiring it to the coffin lock insert so it glowed.

Then while looking to see what side art blades are available, I found Modfather sells the same coffin, just not lit up.
https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/metallica/products/metallica-coffin

#10148 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Looks nice actually! I will post some pics when I install it. Are you removing the original?

Did you install the amp backbox decal yet? Would like to see pics if you have, thanks.

#10149 2 years ago

I have been noticing that after the Sparky magnet catches a ball and holds it that sometimes the ball sticks after the magnet is released. It doesn't happen everytime and when it does it just takes a shake or another ball hitting it to knock it loose. Could one of the balls have become magnetized? Also I tried... Alone....to install those Blade graphics. One went on pretty good the other I made a total disaster with. I just have a pro so I don't have those fancy table legs and I couldn't find a good position for the playfield to get a good alignment on those. I will remove and try again and this time with help.

#10150 2 years ago
Quoted from Thanos75:

I have been noticing that after the Sparky magnet catches a ball and holds it that sometimes the ball sticks after the magnet is released. It doesn't happen everytime and when it does it just takes a shake or another ball hitting it to knock it loose. Could one of the balls have become magnetized? Also I tried... Alone....to install those Blade graphics. One went on pretty good the other I made a total disaster with. I just have a pro so I don't have those fancy table legs and I couldn't find a good position for the playfield to get a good alignment on those. I will remove and try again and this time with help.

I've always done mine with help with no issues. Just rest the playfield bracket on the front edge of the cabinet and have someone push down to lift it up.

The wife knows the drill now and is pretty patient with me while I obsess about perfect alignment lol

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