(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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#467 6 years ago

Got my Metallica PRO last week. NIB. This is my first pin. Loving it! I updated to 1.22 software (just to go through the process). Getting my feet wet with maintenance. Fixed a couple 555 bulbs that were not working. I moved the outlane posts to the closer position. I hope the software keeps getting updated frequently. Loving owning my first pin.

#472 6 years ago

Anybody have issues with the bottom mounted speaker cutting out sporadically during gameplay. Happened once to me and i thought it was a fluke, but just happened again tonight. I turned the game off and then opened coin door and reached in to speaker. Doesnt appear to be loose wiring. But after i started it back up it was fine again.

Has this happened to any other Met Pro owners?

1 month later
#510 6 years ago
Quoted from digitalbytes:

Which LEDs do you use exactly? Metallica is my first machine and the number and variety of LED choices seems a bit daunting. I would like to update the FUEL gauge and the snake.

Here are the leds i used in my pro fuel gauge. I really like it. Part numbers are from cointaker.

Red, orange, yellow, yellow, green.
R44N, O555N, Y555N, Y555N, G44N

Notice on the pro the far left and far right are 44/47 bulbs, others are 555

#513 6 years ago

I also recommend the eyeball coffin decal. Like it was made to be there.
I have metal cliffy protectors for
The drain side of trough
The up kicker side of trough/shooter lane
Shooter lane side wall protector
Mystery hole

3 weeks later
#549 6 years ago

Looks better than my current snakes 1 tooth smile, but is there a way for the "bracket" to be black and the teeth white so that the snake doesnt look like he has a full row of teeth in the front? I was thinking that the black would make the mount disappear and only the fangs would be visible?

Rick

#566 6 years ago
Quoted from JimBoSS:

Mystery Shot just awarded something other than fuel and 500k
Just got light extra ball. have never seen that before and haven't seen it reported elsewhere, has anybody else seen this with V1.22 ?
was on ball 2 had just come off a Coffin Multiball score was 147mil or so.
kinda good to know there is more than the 2 even though it hasn't awarded it before.

Ive seen it scroll by a few times, but never been awarded it. I thought it was a placeholder...

#570 5 years ago
Quoted from Jodester:

Ordered my Met Pro last week and wanted to get some idea about putting LEDs in the machine.
Does anybody have a template of which color/style bulb they used to do their machine? It would at least get me started and then I could tweak it to personal taste.

I have a parts list for my pro and some pics ill send ya if you pm me. I posted them here on pinside at some point in one of the 400 met threads. Hehe

#571 5 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

I have a parts list for my pro and some pics ill send ya if you pm me. I posted them here on pinside at some point in one of the 400 met threads. Hehe

Found my post at the end of this thread...
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/general-illumination-question

#573 5 years ago
Quoted from Jodester:

Thank you good sir!

No problem anything to help a fellow pinsider and met pro owner (soon). Hope you enjoy it as much as i do.

#582 5 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

How about this. 3d printed, improved strength bracket and outset cross.

image-735.jpg 780 KB

Looks cool! Is that printed at one step? Or is the black part glued attached after printing. I dont know much about 3d printing so forgive me if that is a dumb question.

#592 5 years ago

I like the "texture" look on thr cross. Is that just an effect of the printing, or did u design that in? I wondered if they could have the weathered look of the big cross.

1 month later
#660 5 years ago

Id suggest getting some cliffy protectors for the mystery hole, trough exit, and right siderail shooter lane protector.

#664 5 years ago

Inlane protectors? Do you have a link?

#669 5 years ago

Do you mean the metal rollover switch slot protectors? Or something to protect the pf where the ramp returns drop the ball. Or one in the same?

3 weeks later
#680 5 years ago

I have a met pro i bought nib with manufacture date of 4/2013. And just recently the last grave marker has started falling down on its own. Most of the time right after the game resets them, like at the start of a game or after grave MB.

I havent yet looked under the pf, but ive never messed with these before and from what ive read they seem to be a bit finicky. I dont wann mess stuff up.

Any pointers and things to look for when i dig in there to diagnose and fix the problem? Typical drop target adjustments?

The game always recognizes the target drops and gives me credit so i dont think its a switch issue. Im figuring its a physical thing. So spring tension adjustment?

#683 5 years ago

Thanks for the link.

2 weeks later
#684 5 years ago

I didnt end up calling about my drops. The las tweak i did to the spring and the mech itself has it working pretty reliably. I guess it doesnt bother me too much for them to stay up when you hit them vs falling down on their own. Hehe.

Installed a shaker motor today from cointaker. I have to give stern credit that was a simple install.

Holes in bottom of cab already there and T-nuts installed
Place on inside left for he board to install was already marked with "divots" for where the screws go.
The harness in the kit had 2 molex connectors that exactly matched the wire color my game had in it
The games wiring already had the connectors right where they neede to be to plug right in.
Turned on the game, went to the coil test and the shaker motor test worked like a charm.

Fantastic. And simple!

#695 5 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

So you get a new snake head with the eyes and replace yours with the new one?

New head replace original

4 months later
#848 5 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Sorry to crash your thread being a non Met owner, buuuuuut I am in the market, have a question and need your help.
I have young kids 5 and 8 years old and was wondering if there is a Family Language mode on Met? Also, If there is how does it work? Does it bleep out the bad words or not say lines at all?
Thanks for your help and play some pinball this weekend. OK.

Yes there is a setting to turn off the language. It just beeps over the words. It does not edit the song lyrics just the call outs. So in Fuel when james says "F--- 'em man, white knuckle tight", that is still in the game. Etc.

My kids are 11 and 3. The 11 year old is mature enough to hear and not repeat. The 3yr old is oblivious. But i do usually turn the language off unless im playing without the kiddos around.

#853 5 years ago

My wife is pretty cool about the theme and language around the kids(with the adult filter on). So No probs there... But my sister-in-law raised an eyebrow and i could tell shes not that excited about it for her kids. So to each their own. I am usually alone playing and so it doesn't matter in my house.

#880 5 years ago

I noticed that the factory "cliffy" that goes in front of the snake on my 1yr old NIB met pro is starting to curl up a bit directly in front of the snake. Does anyone else have this?

#882 5 years ago

Honestly... I havent kept very good count. I dont write down stuff like that when i update the code. And i could be wrong but that gets wiped away each code update right?

But i will say that it is well loved and cared for/babied. Shes my first pin. If theres a burnt out bulb, i fix it immediately. Etc. it has never left my basement (hopefully never will). Its not like i have big parties and peeps play it...

If i had to guess id say max of 30 games per week * 52 weeks... So maybe 1500 games? But that is a a SWAG.

#883 5 years ago

Also the GI light that is under the right ramp and near the bottom right pop bumper was out. What a giant pita to replace. From the bottom u have to remove the pop switch/spoon so u can get a nut driver on the lamp socket. From the top you have to remove the metal right ramp and then a plastic. I guess its not horrible, but it was definitely more work than i expected.

It was just the factory 555 bulb in there. I tried a CT warm white retro LED. Color wise it was ok, but from spcertain angles you can see that bulb while playing... So i ended up using a CT warm white frosted led.

1 week later
#920 5 years ago

I think the cliffy trough eject protector and the right side rail protector are good. I have them on both my games. I started to see some eject trough wear where the ball hits the shooter lane pretty quickly on my met pro.

-1
#922 5 years ago

1 and 2)
One of the shots will have the spider arrow lit. On my pro its always red, sounds like premium that is blue...
Shooting a different shot will change which shot is lit.
Hit to sparky will light the sparky insert on the lit shot.
Hit to snake will light the snake insert on the lit shot (and the snake inserts to the left and right shots).
Hit to cross will light the cross insert on the lit shot AND move the lot shot to the cross shot.

Completing all the inserts in a particular lane will make it strobe, hit the shot again to start the hurry up, then shoot the captive ball/block to cash in on the hurry up.

#991 5 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

BTW - Remember how I said you could come by and play any time? Stay off my Metallica.

#1018 5 years ago

My imdarras snake head with red leds has developed a short in the wiring after 10 months or so. Its not the connection under the playfield, i redid that so it uses stock like wiring with z connectors. It is somewhere in the wires leading up to or inside the head.
If i hold the wiring connection to the game stable, and jiggle the wire leading up to the snake, the snakes right eye blinks on and off. I need to take the head off and find the loose connection and solder it. I may play around and go with yellow led eyes if i end up having to redo the wiring.

Not bashing the mod. I love it. So much better than my one tooth snake with dead painted eyes.

#1023 5 years ago

Ive heard "Jack F'n Pot!" Callout, not the "Holy F'n Shit". Adlibbing, or are there two different callouts?

#1052 5 years ago
Quoted from Paladin:

Metallica is in the house, my first NIB! Code updated after leveling, and new shiny balls installed. I have a few mods to install but I'm taking a break. I unboxed it in the garage, moved it into house and set it up by myself. I've played half a dozen games so far and am loving it!

image-671.jpg 29 KB

Welcome to the Met club! The honeymoon seems to never end!

#1081 5 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

The ball on mine sometimes gets stuck in the left orbit as seen in the picture. This last time it is wedged pretty good so I'll need to take the glass off to investigate.
Rob

20140817_180054.jpg 204 KB

Looks like thr ball guide on the left of the ball in that spot may be a bit tight. Maybe loosen it some and see if you can scooch it over some? Ill take some pics of mine in that area if you want for comparison. Just lemme know

#1088 5 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

A comparison shot would be appreciated!
Rob

I dunno how well these came out... but basically the whole way up I have about 1/16 inch extra space between the rails and the ball. I used a rag to keep the ball in the tightest spots to get a pic.

20140818_183319.jpg

20140818_183209.jpg

#1096 5 years ago

Anyone had to change the flasher inside the cross on a pro? Mines out and just looking for some pointers before i dig in and fix it. Seems like removing the cross assemble from bottom and then working on it is the plan of attack. But if you all have pointers or gotchas to look for, id appreciate a heads up.

Thanks

#1098 5 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

did it as it, 3 screws under playflied, 3 more to "open" the cross (plastic & steel), and than done, its an easy 5 minutes job
have tried a green flash in it, its poor, now a red one, its nice

Thanks i may tackle that later today. Ill try a led flasher, but may not look good or fit. I had an led flasher in my TFLE allspark and it was just too much hitting u in the face, so i put the bulb back in. Figure the cross may be a similar situation.

#1108 5 years ago

Wow what bad luck. At least everything seems to be replaced with little hassle. Still sucks. But metallica will make you forget as soon as you finally get one thats right.

#1109 5 years ago

I took the cross out. The led flasher was one just like the ones for sparky. It was rattling around in there. Plugged the bulb in the socket and it worked fine.

On my cross its basically just a spotlight base shoved up in the cross. But there is a metal post at the bottom that goes through the screw hole of the spot base. That prevented me from pulling the bulb out.

Quick and easy.

#1110 5 years ago

Fixed my imdarras snake that had a short in its right eye. Took snake apart, and the wires were crimped and had worn through at the back of the head near where they were hot glued. I thing they were pinched between the snake head and the scoop. So after months of play they wore through.

I soldered them back together and put two layers of shrink wrap tube around it. I also took a small sanding drum hooked to my dads drill press and ground down the side of the snakes head some so that maybe it wouldnt pinch the wires.

That fix was a more involved fix. Soldering iron, heat gun, hot glue gun. But its all back in business now.

Sometimes working on pins is as fun as playing.

Before fix with wire broken/worn where it rubs snake head:
20140819_123007.jpg

After fix soldered wires and double layer of shrink wrap:
20140819_142509.jpg

3 weeks later
#1178 5 years ago

I bought the CT set for my Pro. The documentation they provide for which bulb type goes where is handy. It helped me make a follow up order to tweak the color choices they had. For ex i moved two of the slow color changing flex head leds over to the mystery hole. They change at different rates and it gives a nice mix of colors fading in and out when its lit.

I like my guitar pics both out near the ramps and near the flippers to be the same color. I went with green CT premium. Love it.

#1179 5 years ago

Does anyone know for sure which leds brand type and color stern is putting in the GI for the new led pros?

Ive tried a few different leds in GI and im not found one that im completely that happy with. I think the best ive got for under plastics is a premium frosted warm white. Tried a retro and it was ok but maybe too in your face for in use in slings etc. i just picked up a couple of thier double leds. Ill expiriment some.

2 weeks later
#1212 5 years ago
Quoted from Prosedsp:

Just picked up a Met pro. Love it.
My mystery light is always flashing, and when I hit the shot it just kicks the ball back out. Usually gives me mystery award after hitting it 2 or 3 times. Is this normal?

No thats not normal. Sounds like your switch inside the scoop isnt giving a steady closed signal to the game. Ive had the same thing. Some discussion in various met threads. Basic idea is the switch tells game ball is there, but its "flakey". So the game kicks the ball out (kinda like the ball finder) without awarding the shot.

I adjusted the metal arm of the switch very slightly up towards the middle of the space where the ball would be when in the scoop. Havent had the prob since.

#1244 5 years ago

SnD is a mode that starts when you complete the inserts (sparky switch, snake, cross) for all the main shots and collect the hurry up for each.

The seek shot is to hit the strobing shot (all inserts flash at same time)
Then the destroy shot is to hit the captive ball.
Then another lane will begin strobing
Repeat until timeout or ball drain.

Lanes will strobe in the same order that you completed them to get to SnD.

#1245 5 years ago

Blackened mode starts by completing all of the pic inserts with band members names on them near flippers. To light each pic insert you have to complete a set of the four pic targets near the ramps. The number of pic sets increases for each band member earned.

Once you get all four pics on the lower playfield lit, blackened starts. I dont have the rules for playing the blackened mode ironed out in my head yet. But you can wrap up some sweet jackpots.

Enjoy

1 week later
#1328 5 years ago

The flasher behind the captive ball flashes/lights after either rollover/inlane. If you hit the ball then it counts as 2 hits on the coffin towards crank it up progression.

#1330 5 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Does it count towards 2 hits for a lock and extra ball too???

Not sure. Probably. Id have to take glass off and check.

#1347 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I have had something like this happen twice, but the ball was not stuck to the captive ball, it was stuck in the middle between the captive ball and casket magnet, so when hammer came down the ball still went in the casket, weird, but has only happened twice out of a lot of plays.
Can't seem to rack up a lot of points, only been to 2 CIU modes, only can get Blackend and Lady Justice going. I have not gotten to S&D or any other modes. I did get to FUEL mode, but have no idea how I did it. Fun game though, as I'am still learning the rules. My highest score is 270million and change. I see a lot of people with 400 million plus scores or better, would like to be up in this bracket as scores go.

I think you need to change the setting that says something like features continue from ball to ball. Otherwise you arent likely to get S&D. Well at least im not.
I think there is a similar setting for band members resetting after each ball.

#1359 5 years ago

Jeff the inserts on the main shots in the game reset/clear by default with factory settings. So to get S&D. You would have to do it in one ball. Same with blackened mode and the band member guitar pics.

There are settings to allow the status to continue from ball to ball that you would have to change from no to yes. I can look for the setting numbers sometime if you want. Its one of the first things indo when i up date my machines code

5 ball cause is suck and i want to see EOL someday
2 settings to allow s&d and guitar pics to go from ball to ball
Make the snake hold the ball in its mouth during snake add a ball multiplier (assume prem le does this by default)
Free play
Etc.

#1362 5 years ago

I think you guys are right, my bad. I was over simplifying how much clears.

#1370 5 years ago
Quoted from pascal-pinball:

hey guys,
normally I will have a Metallica pro next week.
I would like to switch the lamps with leds.
are the GI lamps all wedge?
are all the insert lamps also wedge?
any suggestions on the GI colors? cool white/red/blue?
all tips are welcome...

I have a spreadsheet that i made that maps out each insert led with what type base it is and what color and type led i used. If you want it pm me your email and ill send it to you. Last time i tried pinside wouldnt allow xls attachments to posts or to pinside mail.

#1391 5 years ago

Look out lars! Shes coming for ya!

2 weeks later
#1494 5 years ago
Quoted from bobbyt:

hey guys , I got my new Metallica yesterday and it is awesome, I was missing a couple playfield screws, they were not in the cabinet so I guess they just forgot to install them, also the power plug was not snapped in tight so the game would not fire up, took about 5 minutes to find the problem, I got lucky they sent me the led model, it is very bright, is there anything that I should do right away besides wax the playfield? thanks

Id put a cliffy eject hole protector down asap (there is a specific one for met). The shooter lane where the ball comes out of the trough will start to show wear and/or discolor quickly. I also put a cliffy on the side rail in the shooter lane, but i didnt see damage there before hand.

#1501 5 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

You talking about the super band post rubbers are the transparent ones? There is a big difference. My transparent plays the same as white. Super bands are more bouncy. All my house balls come from the dang metal in lane divider. I hate that thing!

I hate that inlane divider too. That stupid dull klink sound it makes right before the ball bounces right out the left outlane... Makes me so mad!

1 week later
#1566 5 years ago

Say it aint so gecko!

#1574 5 years ago

I have never seen air balls off the pro captive ball. Does the replacement parts have the metal hoop around the top of the ball? What about the metal plate under the ball?

I cant tell in the video if those are there. Maybe they help keep air balls down?

image.jpg

image-968.jpg

#1601 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

No protective piece for Sparky with Pinbits protectors $25 kit. I got this kit and only put on the sling protectors. No piece for Sparky, But Rickwh, makes a Sparky protector, I bought one off him $5 shipped, just haven't installed it yet. Its regular clear piece not yellow like in the above photo though.

Yep i will make a sparky airball plastic for anyone that wants one for $5 (paypal as a gift) shipped to ya. Just need to have a USPS address (international is way to expensive). Pm me for paypal info.

#1629 4 years ago

I cant decide if i like the new pro decal on the speaker panel. Matches the cabinet artwork, and im not sure what else would work. Just not sure if i like it. Maybe im just used to black speaker panel. Idk. Maybe Aurich can work something up..... Hint hint...

#1636 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Heh. I have the template for it since it's the same panel as Star Trek, dunno if there even enough of those new Pros out there for there to be any real demand. Or what I'd even do for it.
I haven't seen on in person yet, it seems like it should match the game okay, what would you have preferred to see?
I am toying with some Metallica projects (not a translite!) but I have an LE so that's my point of reference for everything.

Im not sure. Haven't seen it in person. It probably looks awesome. Just seems like it should tie in with the lightning theme of the back drop on the playfield or something.

It may just be that im used to the black of the old style.

Ive thought of trying to make a decal for the old style, but when i was thinking about that, i was thinking of how to make the old look like the new.

#1653 4 years ago

This may be a dumb question, but im not a premium/le owner so...

Is there a subway over to the mystery hole to let the balls out of the coffin? If so How fast do they shoot out for coffin mb?

Seems like that could be drain city if your mystery hole scoop was adjusted wrong.

Just never played a prem before and i dont recall seeing coffin mb startup in any videos.

#1661 4 years ago
Quoted from bobbyt:

shout out to Rickwh for the sparky plastic , I got it today and it is real nice, easy install and it looks great, do not hesitate to deal with Rick, thanks!

Thanks man!

#1667 4 years ago

I had one customer from this past weekends batch that didnt fit and had to have another hole drilled in it. So if any of you that ordered from me in the last week have that problem, lemme know. Hopefully its a 1 time issue... I make each one by hand so it is possible for them to be a bit off i guess.

#1669 4 years ago

Thanks for posting the install pics!

Looks like you have both the stock and the new airball plastic in there. Im surprised there was enough threads on the posts to allow that. Seems pretty tight on mine. (Just room for one piece).

Sorry you had to basically remove the left ramp. Yikes! . I've never had to bother with the left ramp to install/test fit in my machine. There is a funky shaped plastic that surrounds the left ramp on the back side that is a giant PITA. I remove the 4 screws holding it in and let it just fall back into the orbit lane. Once its out of the way you should be able to loosen the hex post right beside sparkys right hand and the lock nut over by the pops and lift the old plastic out. Then just repeat to put it back.

The spotlight on the funky left ramp plastic is a PITA as well. Easy to over tighten and crack the funky piece or spin the hex post too tight against the grave marker plastic below it. I use an adjustable wrench to hold the hex post and tighten the screw on the spot light. Snug. Not over tight.

Rick

#1672 4 years ago

Just glad the plastic are helping everyone out.

I ended up cracking my gravemarker plastic (under the hex post near sparkys right hand) yesterday when test fitting some plastics. So I'm kinda annoyed with myself. I think that area is a bit under engineered as the graveyard plastic seems like its under some pressure (its kinda bent from the factory).

Oh well. Love my Metallica! I can definitely tell when I haven't played enough cause I suck badly. After practicing I'll get my game back and just suck at a normal level. hehe

Rick

#1675 4 years ago

That is the count down for seek and destroy mode. You are supposed to either hit
The strobing lane/shot for the "seek"
Or
The captive ball for the "destroy"
This alternates back and forth until you either time out or drain.

#1687 4 years ago

With the CT sale, i picked up some led flashers for the backboard of my met pro. I got flex head flat 8 flashers. There are 6 89 flasher sockets back there.

I went with

Blue. White. Blue. Blue. White. Blue.

I tilted the heads of the blues so that they aimed away from the center lightning generators in the artwork and the whites i directes right at the center. I think it came out really well.

Inexpensive way to make a big visual impact.

#1690 4 years ago
Quoted from btw75:

Hey Rickwh, thanks a bunch for the Sparky plastic. Installed yesterday evening and am pleased. I also installed the stand up target splints and waxed the thing for the first time since I bought it 500 games ago. Holy smokes it got fast!

I glad you like it!

#1706 4 years ago

Ive had the eject hole cliffy on my met for a year now and habent had any issues. I do think mine was mounted a bit further back. I can take a picture if you think that would help.

1 week later
#1764 4 years ago

Thanks for the kind words folks.

I have started asking for $7 for sparky plastic shipped to a USPS address. The padded cushion envelope I use costs $1.19 + tax and the first class postage is ~$2.30. So I raised the price to compensate.

Also to help with the minor fitment issues that have some folks have had, I have started test fitting each and every plastic I send out in my Met pro. So that should keep you all from having any issues (I hope).

I made 6 up over the weekend last weekend and 4 of them are spoken for so 2 more and then I'll have to make a new batch. I only have time to work on these on the weekends so if I'm out then I'll make anther batch the following weekend or so.

Rick
Thanks

#1769 4 years ago
Quoted from MnHotRod:

Has anyone added bulb sockets to a Pro in order to achieve GI similar to an LE?

Id love to figure out a way to replicate the gi from a prem or even to set the color based on modes in general. Lots of peeps doing things like that to other titles so doesnt seem that far fetched. Just above my skillz at the moment.

#1785 4 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Can someone explain the piston shot to me? I don't really understand it. I know it has a few different uses.
-I know that double scoring is started by hitting that shot (when the arrow is lit????). How do you get double scoring qualified to start?
-There are 3 inserts below the arrow, I think these are the pistons? When these are lit, hit the shot to "blow" the pistons? X amount of pistons = extra ball? So if 2 of the 3 insert are lit, and I shoot the piston shot, does that blow 2 pistons? How Do I light those piston inserts? Do they light with 10 hits to the associated pop bumper?
I think I'm pretty close here, just want to know what lights tot shot to start double scoring and want to know more about these blown pistons.....
Thanks!

Good questions. I can't wait to hear the answers.

here is what I think I know:

-the 3 icons under the arrow correspond to the pop bumpers. I think they light after a certain number of hits to each pop.
-each time you spell fuel and light another spot on the fuel meter (center playfield), I think it lights the red arrow on the piston target for a 30 second "Yeah double score" timer.

#1796 4 years ago

Purple super bands and stock yellow bats.

#1818 4 years ago
Quoted from Pincrawler:

I would like to make my own Sparky Protector, has anyone posted up a scan of the changes made from the original the game shipped with? IE: How far out you extend the plastic from Saprkys feet?
Thanks in advance

On the ones i make i trace the existing plastic, then slide the plastic up so the bottom middle (flat part right between sparkys knees over the target) lines up with the line i drew for the current opening. That sounds a lot more complicated than it is. Basically i make the width of the plastic 2x what it is from the factory as measured from sparkys chair back towards the flippers.

Hope that helps.

#1819 4 years ago

Heres a pic of some sparky plasitcs i made a few weeks ago. Hopefully u can see the original outline of the plastic and then where i made the new cut.

20141116_133802.jpg

#1821 4 years ago
Quoted from Pincrawler:

Thanks for the help guys. Already made one up, like 85vette and it's great. NO MORE AIRBALLS on the first 5 games after, I was getting them all the time before.

Rock on!

#1835 4 years ago

Hello everyone. Just wanted to put the word out that ive had some sickness in the family and therefore have had a week or two delay in making sparky plastics. Im a bit backlogged. But should be shipping out Monday or Tuesday this week. I apologize for the delay and appreciate your patience. I will get to everyone in the orde that you contacted me. Thank you!

#1838 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I hope everything is OK now Rick.

everyone is back in pretty much 100% now. All four of us passed a nasty cold around and really knocked us for a loop. Wife even progressed into an infection in her chest and ears. So she was under the weather for the longest. So while the wife is under the weather things like pinball go to the back burner.

#1846 4 years ago

My snake started being sketchy with registering hits again. Snake lit, get ball in scoop, spits it back out. Still lit. Lifted up the playfield and adjusted the arm on the switch some. Its better, but need to do it again. Switch test shows everything is fine. Just not making solod enough connection for game to score it. Frustrating for sure. I think ive had this before, but maybe it was the mystery scoop... Just need to fiddle with it

#1848 4 years ago
Quoted from YKpinballer:

I had this happening yesterday also, i pushed together the wire connections to make sure they weren't loose and the problem has improved significantly. Still get it once in a while though.

Its frustrating that it easily recognizes that the ball is in there and spits it back out every time. but doesn't score it.

I'm guessing its a lower level/ base software thing that exists in the "don't get ball hang up" level of the code that is kicking it out, but not a long/consistent closing of the switch to make it score as a snake hit.

Rick

15
#1861 4 years ago

Just wanted to let you guys know that I will no longer be making any Sparky airball plastics.

If you have already contacted me about getting one, but haven't paid, and decide you still want one, I will complete that transaction and send you out one

If you have issues with sparky plastics that I have sent out over the last few months and need a replacement, I will support that and get you a replacement.

But I'm not going to be accepting any new requests.

Sorry for any inconvenience, but its time for me to focus more on family and not spend my weekends in the garage making plastics. Also the endless trips to the post office to get supplies is getting old too.

Thanks for all who have purchased a plastic from me and the kind words/feedback. I have been glad to have been able to help peeps out.

Thanks,

Rick

#1868 4 years ago

So ive been messing around with the GI on my met pro and wanted to go led, but keep it pretty much the same look. So i understand that the led stern met pros are using the warm white CT 2 led bulbs for GI. So i picked enough up for my machine. Mostly happy with it except for a few places.

There is a GI socket right above the left outlane that is blinding when its got the CT 2led in it. The plastic above it doesnt cover the bulb so its "staring you right in the face". I ended up putting a frosted CT warm white led in there.

Similar situation, although not as bad is the bulb under the right ramp near the bottom pop bumper and the end of the shooter lane. Normally its covered by the ramp, but if you lean over from center to the right it has direct line of sight for me (im 6 ft even). Did the same frosted trick on that socket too.

The sockets in the slings are also a tricky spot for me. The 2 leds seemed to wash out or make bright spots on the plastics. So tried warm white retro leds from CT. They work better, but have a slight green tinge to them that i dont really like. The frosteds just look funny and dont out out enough light in this position.

Any suggestions?

#1872 4 years ago

Ive never seen this. But inhave done what you are saying and about shit my pants when james or sparky yelled out behind me. Im usually doing work in the middle of the night alone in the basement... Its kinda funny if you think about it.

Having the rules would be cool.

#1883 4 years ago

Getting that callout is so rewarding!

#1886 4 years ago

Sorry to see that. PM sent

#1913 4 years ago

Save money get original met pro. If the snake has teeth, they may break off or they may not. Only one tooth broke on mine, and it broke the first night... i got the led lit snake head from imdarras and kept the 1 tooth original. I added the mezel teeth and it has been awesome ever since.

Rick

#1921 4 years ago

My first pin and first nib as well. Im spoiled now. Awesome game that is never leaving the (small) collection!

#1957 4 years ago

Im ok with anyone making sparky plastics. I never wanted to have a mod side business. Just trying to help out fellow pinsiders.

So definitely cool with me if you wanna make some!

#1965 4 years ago

I can take some under playfield shots of my met pro that i out service rails on if anyone is interested. I attached the bottom/trough side and then just kinda eyeballed it for where to out the middle playfield ones. It was very nerve wreking to drill the bottom of the playfield for sure. Thick wraps of tape on the drill bit so it was damn sure not gonna poke through. I dont thnk mine had dimples for where to drill

#1993 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Not pinball related, necessarily, but Metallica related -- St. Anger completely re-recorded with a regular snare and normal production. Also somewhat shortened. It's pretty awesome.
» YouTube video

Id never heard this before. Watched the first couple songs before i realized the drums, both guitars and the bass are all the same dude. Wow!

I always thought the audio from the live rehersals video that camewith st. Anger was beter than the studio track. I loaded it on my ipod and thats what i listen to when i want my st. Anger fix.

Is st. Anger as good as Master of Puppets... No. But i enjoy it every now and again. Some song layouts could be trimed (st anger, frantic). But i like the disc. Like the detuned guitars and the while disc not being the same tuning.

#2003 4 years ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

Mostly wedge bases, yes.

I think there are just 4 44/47 bulb sockets. The four in the slings. Rest is all 555. I think there is around 25 or so GI. 555s

#2009 4 years ago

Still would like blackend mode to be the four horseman mode as it was obviously intended to be. Dont wanna get rid of blackened in the song rotation though. I dont know how tight they are in memory available with the current code. Maybe thats not possible.

#2021 4 years ago

I think the consensus is that if you can afford/find/obtain a Prem/LE then go for it. but if you cant the Pro is a awesome pin as well.

#2052 4 years ago
Quoted from S37VEN:

I just installed the neon protector set from Pinbits last night (slings/guides, pop bumpers and Sparky air ball protector) and I have to say that I am really happy with how they turned out. The neon effect is much more intense in person.
The laser etching on the slings of a skull/piston and flames really pops as does the spider web etching on the Sparky plastic.
Just thought I'd share as this set is very different and far more reasonable in price than the other neon plastic offerings I've seen.

METLE PF.jpg 323 KB

METLE R SLING.jpg 258 KB

METLE SPARKY POPS.jpg 294 KB

METLE SLINGS.jpg 318 KB

I like the etching on the slings and sparky. Did u specify the color of plastic or did they come that way?

1 week later
#2128 4 years ago

85vett, have you tried reseating J10 connector in the upper center/right of the backbox? My sound would cut out and be very tinny/scratchy at times and then fix itself. Seemed vibrations made it worse.

Someone here on pinside suggested reseating J10 and my sound issues went away. Might be worth a try if you havent.

2 weeks later
#2230 4 years ago

I have another small batch of 10 sparky airball protectors, if anyone is interested. $7 shipped. I have to limit this to US orders only. Please pm me for details of you are interested.

Thanks.

#2238 4 years ago

Thanks man! My magnet was taking a beating cause it would pull airballs down out of the air and slam them on top of the magnet. The protector keeps that to a minimum/or not at all. Also things like the spots near sparky dont get knocked around.

#2244 4 years ago
Quoted from Hudson:

Here ya go... It just extends out further over his feet.

Sparky Air Ball Protector.JPG 85 KB

Hudson, I see where you had to drill a new hole in your plastic. You said you had to do that shortly after you got it. I'd be happy to send you a new one (free). If you change your mind, lemme know. Yours was from a batch before I started test fitting each one in my machine before I ship them out.

Rick

#2249 4 years ago

It has been a while, but im pretty sure there is just 2 screws to get the top of the snake off.
1 the big hex screw Down through the top of his head
2 there is a small screw in the roof of his mouth up into his head.

For the inside the mouth screw i used a tiny ratchet screw driver.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-ratchet-wrench-set/p-00947478000P

Hope that helps.

#2250 4 years ago

Last batch of 10 (make it 9 cause i jacked one up) sparky protectors are gone. Had a couple more people interested, so i have another batch ready to go if anyone out there (US only, sorry) wants one.

#2259 4 years ago

Broke my first mezel tooth/fang today. Well i noticed it today. I didnt see it happen. This is the original set i bought way back when they were first made. Luckily i bought 2 sets!

#2277 4 years ago
Quoted from TOK:

I didn't like the look of that LED at the base of the piston plastic, so I moved it forward (hole is already there). It is pretty much the only LED on the playfield that is exposed like that.
Its definitely an improvement, but does leave a visible hole. Did anyone else do this and cover/plug it? Wondering what you used.
ledmove.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

That GI led drives me crazy too. Direct line of sight. I like your solution. I put a frosted led in mine and that helps. But you are still staring at the bulb...

#2311 4 years ago
Quoted from anubis2night:

waiting for my Metallica Pro to be delivered, in the meantime, I've order my Pin Pak, Sparky Protector (thanks again Rickwh) cliffy's, TOTAN replacment post, white replacment rubbers for the machine, plastic protectors, and ultra high gloss pinballs.
Still on my list is to get that coffin decal (if I can score it in red) and then some LED's
I'm just curious, has anyone done a LED layout map and made a thread for it? seems like it would be a great feature to post up, anyone could post pics of their games and what they've done for their LED layout.
anyways looking forward to more ideas as I read through for stuff to do (don't want to get too crazy I think)
some items I may go for down the road:
those sweet pop bumper caps from Hooked
led flipper buttons
removing the spot lamps on the bumpers and reroute those lights for under the mystery hole, ect...

Lemme know how the sparky airball protector goes for ya when you get your game.

I have an excel spreadsheet with the inserts and the led type and color i used if you are interested. Pinside wont let ya attach xls files, but i can email it to you.

Edit: I had your email from your sparky plastic order. So I sent it to ya.

#2319 4 years ago

Maybe they will do a premium run too. Thats about the only thing that would get me to sell my met pro.

#2322 4 years ago

Jeff, can you send some pics. I dont know how the refinery light board attaches, but i would be surprised if it didnt have some connectors so it could be removed from the backbox entirely. Id be happy to help ya out.

Basically you just need to go slow and take lots of pictures. Maybe even write on the connectors with a sharpie or put masking tape around them and label them as you take them off. Just disconnect each connection and label where it goes. Snap a pic or two. Move on to next connector. All of this with the game off of course. Then unscrew the screws holding the cpu board on. Remove. Then work the steps backwards to put it back.

Then once you double and triple check stuff is the same as it was, i would turn it on and do a lamp, switch, coil test. Id leave the refinery backbox stuff off untill you make sure its working better.

1 week later
#2334 4 years ago

Band member picks advance you toward blackened mode which i honestly dont know the rules for very well, but its kindof a wizard mode and you can rack up points big time. You light a band member pic target insert on the playfield after completing the 4 sets of pick targets a certain number of times.

Completing the pick targets during muktiball and then getting a ball in the snake will add a ball to your Multiball.

The green led on the snake shows when he is lit for adding a leter to SNAKE. To start snake multiball. I think you have to make a shot that isnt lit with a snake insert to light the snake. Or maybe i have that backwards.

Maybe the snake has to be lit for you to light the insert on the red arrow shot? Or maybe the switch that detects the ball inside the snakes mouth needs adjustment. Ive had to tweak mine a few times so it will make good contact and register the ball 100% of the time. If the switch is out of adjustment the snake spits out the ball without giving you credit for the shot.

#2337 4 years ago
Quoted from forensicd:

Ok, question. I have had my pro for a month or so, and the graveyard targets confuse me. After I knock them all down, sometimes they dont reset for quite a bit afterwards, even after shooting it around for a bit. They seem to reset on ramp shots from time to time.

The game will reset them when it is sure the ball cant get stuck behind them. If the game would somehow reset them while the ball was behind them, that is a glass off event to fix. So when the ball is up the ramp and they need reset it will reset them. Otherwise leaves them down till you drain.

#2350 4 years ago
Quoted from anubis2night:

by any chance is anyone making a Metallica speaker grill insert similar to this (but in the metallica theme)
perhaps a "M" or maybe the snake:
spiderman speaker grill insert.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
metallica snake logo.JPG (Click image to enlarge)

I got the M star inserts as a special order from dugfreez at speakerlightkits.com with my speaker lights and they are awesome.

1 week later
#2403 4 years ago
Quoted from anubis2night:

Would love to swap to the single target (then again might be fun to have a custom single target made)
Btw, I'm wanting to move the spot lights of the slingshots and move them under the playfield, can anyone give me some tips on how to do that? I know on page 36 there's a set of photos showing how someone moved them but I'm just looking for specifically how to remove the spotlight housing from the wiring without damaging it so it'll fit through the hole (oor can I undo the wiring underneath and pull it from below then rewire from underneath?

Im betting the spots connect via a 2wire z connector under the playfield. Disconnect that then pull the spot wire up through the hole in the play field to remove. The you can take the spot assembly and mount it whereever you want underneath. Hopefully the wire will be long enough to connect back to same z connector on harness

2 weeks later
#2514 4 years ago

Definitely integrated well for pro. Get one!

#2578 4 years ago

Do you have a link for the side rails? Id like to get a set of them for my pro. I like the lollipop/metallica shape, but prefer them not say ride the lightning upt the side.... Id want them black to match the normal pro armor too.

#2587 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

20122_10203661869697044_9180524810072312980_n.jpg (Click image to enlarge)Since owning my Metallica premium since July, I have had to replace magnet board and CPU board on the machine. Matter of fact, I just did the CPU swap a few days ago, my machine was down for months. If you notice in the picture the ROM on the board is AC/DC, the ROM on original board just said "pinball boost" , Oh well it works, got it fixed and I have sound again. Both times Stern covered the boards. I want in on the colorDMD, I read someone bought a colorDMD already? So they are out now? If not, why are people buying now? Fill me in, post a link to where to buy? Thanks

Glad they got you fixed up Jeff!

#2634 4 years ago

Awesome to hear about so many NIB Met machines stern is churning out. You all wont be disappointed!

Only thing that would make me sell my Met pro is if stern ran another premium run. Back in 2013 buying my first pin, i think I made the right decision to get the pro NIB. Spending 5g on a pin that i had no idea how to take care of was kinda jumping into the deep end of the pool already. But now that im a 3 pin owner, im thinking maybe the extra $$$ would have been worth it.

#2686 4 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

For sure, cut them out. If not, the heat of the magnet will make a mess of them.
I hope Rickwh doesn't mind me saying this but there is a nice protector included in the pinbits plastic protector kit. He's basically making these things for no profit so I hope he doesn't mind. I do recommend the pinbits kit as it will protect all your plastics for the long haul.

Thanks everyone for the kind words. Its nice to see my protectors helping people out. I don't mind at all people comparing or recommending the pinbits one. Even happy to help folks make their own.

I've been making the protectors basically at cost, just trying to help out folks. I can usually only make time to make them on the weekends etc. so sometimes it can be a week or two when I'm out of stock.

I'm currently out of stock at the moment, and am out of town this weekend so if you are interested in one, just pm me and I'll get to it when I can. I'll let you know when they are ready to ship via PM. Probably in a week or two.

Thanks

Rick

#2801 4 years ago

Played a few games today. Left sling spot led came out and ended up in the trough... Confused the hell out of the game when it was blocking the balls from rolling all the way down into the trough. Mid game... glass off, apron off, unscrew 4 screws holding top of trough down, open top of trough, get led out, reverse steps leaving a ball in shooter lane. Continue game.

Sigh.

#2889 4 years ago

I had an email conversation with eric about a set of black side rails. Asked him for a price and he never got back to me. Guess hes sold out. But 275 quoted above seems steep. Think id rather just get the lollipop ones from PBL.

#2895 4 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Id like to weld the skull on to a standard rail...that would be nice... or get the lollipops

I think my ideal would be rails that:
Had the mirrored metallica logo cutouts on the angle/lollipop slope.
Didnt have ride the lightning cutouts at all
Mounted to the cabinet with existing/standard hardware only.

Matching hinges with throwing star Ms as an option...

#2896 4 years ago

No doubt the refinery purplr is awesome!

#2948 4 years ago

Some progress on the next batch. Got my envelopes from staples and my stamps and a couple sheets of plastic from lowes.

20150423_184229.jpg

#2953 4 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

How do you cut them out? By hand or do you have a cnc router, or something?

I use a scroll saw with a fine blade. Its old school i know.

#2961 4 years ago

For peeps that have the purple armor, how resistant to scratches is it? My TFLE has red/purple powder coat and there is a blemish on the lockdown bar that ive not found a way to polish away...

#2976 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Hey Rick, can you do different colors? I like your clear, but can see blue would look good up there in that area.

I dunno where to get the colored plastic. And keeping track of what color peeps want sounds like work.

rick

#3085 4 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Met Pro colour GI is coming. Coding started today.
» YouTube video

This looks awesome! Looks like purple for the justice ramp mode. Does it do different colors for other modes green for snake, blue/white for sparky etc. how does it hook into game?

im gonna go read that other thread. Thanks for this! Looks awesome so far!

#3089 4 years ago

Looks really nice! I read up on the other thread.

So met is socketed whereas tron and other games had led strips? And the sockets are going in the playfield holes that the premium/le already uses?

Forgive me as ive never played a premium/le so i guess i dont know what im missing. But I like how you are comparing first hand to a premium and duplicating the function.

Great work!

#3099 4 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

On the premium/LE, starting snake mb is simply making it in the mouth x amont of times, depending on your settings. I would think it's the same for the pro. You don't have to hit the snake to advance toward ciu. Any lit snake insert works. Same for the electric switch and cross. The coffin is the only toy you have to hit every time to advance toward ciu. If you hit an active shot twice in a row, it just keeps it active.

I think you are spot on. basically snake mb will start after earning the letters to spell S N A K E. I t sounds like the biggest diff between prem/le and pro would be in hits when the snake isnt lit.

On the pro you only get a snake letter when you get the ball in the snake scoop when it is lit (green led on his head). Hits to snake when it isnt lit just kick back out t you with no snake letter.

Sounds like on the Prem/le the snakes jaw would close and keep you from getting the ball in there at all when the snake shot isnt lit. So unlit shots just bounce off the snakes bottom lip.

#3175 4 years ago
Quoted from mario_1_up:

Has anyone heard anything on the side rails from erik at Pin-Protection. Still haven't got a email reply back.

He stopped responding to me too. I took it that he ran out of stock

#3205 4 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

I know last time I talked to him he was very busy with family lately. He also could be out of stock I know I bought the last set of silver ones and he had at the time two sets of black left in stock. I'm really surprised you guys haven't heard back from him he's usually very good with communication he may be checking into cost to have them done again and the timeframe it will take hopefully he can make more they look great. I stood back and looked at my Metallica last night with the rails and the color DMD and it is quite impressive to say the least.

image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

That looks awesome!

#3232 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

I can't get my fangs installed for anything. The little screw inside the jaw is so damn tight...Anyone else have this issue?

I used one of theses to get my snake head off. Screw in roof of the snakes mouth

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-offset-ratcheting-screwdriver-bit-wrench/p-00941715000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

#3276 4 years ago

Ill take care of ya.

#3278 4 years ago

No need for extra money. Ive had people that reported fit issues in the past but never any one that had them breaking. I think you are the first for that, unfortunately.

I have a few spares that i just need to finish sanding and test fitting and then ill get one out in the mail.

No charge

#3287 4 years ago

Sean, I have your replacement sparky out for the mail tomorrow. Lemme know when you get it and if you have any problems with this one.

Sorry ya had problems. Hope this one works better for ya!

#3399 4 years ago
Quoted from RonB:

My right flipper started sticking in the up position, so I dug in and found it was a mechanical issue. After inspecting I decided to change the coil sleeve which looked a bit nasty even at only 414 plays. I also found that the coil stop center is loose and appears to be the culprit as it allows the plunger to go a tad further in and gets stuck in the end of the coil sleeve. I tightened up the flipper return spring and it helps, but a new coil stop is in order.
Below is a pic of the left and right coil sleeves respectively. What's odd is the right flipper has about 3,000 less flips than the left, but is way dirtier.
IMG_1465.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
I also noticed the graveyard cross wasn't flashing, so I tore into that and found the flasher bulb couldn't take that many hits I guess. What a pain to change that bulb.
IMG_1382.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
Just thought I'd post this so you guys know if you have the same problems what to look for.

Wow. I had an issure with my cross flasher, but after digging it out, it had just came out of the socket. This is definitely a place a regular push-twist 44-47 style bulb socket would be nice. But it may not fit. Was a super pain.
Did you have issues getting the cross to fit down through the hole in the plastic? The screws in mine just barely fit. Must be diff on thr prem/le cause as is my cross wouldnt work on the mech.

#3433 4 years ago

A forstner bit might make a cut that is less likely to crack the plastic.

Something loke this
image.jpg

Also my experience with drill presses making my sparky protectors is that they spin too fast. Even woth mine on the lowest speed. I get much better/safer contol with a hand drill.

Just my two cents.

#3441 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I had no problem at all with the wood bit and my press. Much more control of the cut depth and speed of cut. Not even a hint of cracking, just let the bit do the cutting and don't force the cut pressure.

Awesome! glad it worked out. Both the Green and Orange pics above look great with the eyeball cutout!

Rick

1 week later
#3579 4 years ago
Quoted from twista22:

sorry for the repost Im just seeing if anybody knowshow to help with this.
the inline drop target bank of my Metallica. During the game, the drop targets will reset spontaneous three times straight, without any reason
» YouTube video

I had this problem. If you notice the reset happens when the flasher for the left ramp goes off. It is blinding the optical sensor at the top of the grave marker lane. I had this on mine until i replaced all my flashers with leds. I kinda fixed it by accident. The flat8 flasher led, was much shorter than the original bulb. So i slightly bent the bulb mount to get the flasher pointed directly up into the M insert for the ramp. Doing so stopped the flasher from blinding the optical. And fixed my problem.

As a quick test take out the flasher bulb and do this test again. I bet the drops dont reset.

2 weeks later
#3655 4 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

So, have a SMARTDMD in mine running with the colorfile of great PinballMikeD. Problem is I have a painted Sparky by Geert Koop (his very first one I may add , Sparky goes Hawai) and colored is flesh Sparky.
So spent some time altering PinballMIkeD's work and see
» YouTube video
Nice in green . This type of DIY is what I love in SmartDMD and yep, ColorDMD looks great to but I am a DIY guy

Nice work!

#3694 4 years ago

I second the notion of keeping blackend (cause it rocks and goes well with pinball) but adding the 4 horsemen for the mini-wizard pic completion mode.

Another thing that would be nice is a choice of accepting a mystery scoop award, or skipping it to keep working on your mystery level (completing the rollover targets) to get better quality awards.

so if you are at mystery level 1 or 2 and get a random scoop shot it doesn't just give you 500K or a snake insert then make you start over at level 1... maybe decide the random award, then ask if you want that or to bank it for a bigger prize later.

I'd bank it and wait for it to give me a "light extra ball" or complete S&D shot/start hurry up award etc.

Rick

3 weeks later
#3914 4 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

Check your connection up at the top of the soundboard by the big white block looking things LOL mine did that briefly I reseated the connections and it hasn't done it again since

Yep this is what happened to me as well.

Pin off
Disconnect and reconnect the connector in upper right with the big white blocks hanging on them. Off the top of my head inthink it was j10.
Pin on

Hasnt happened again.

Rick

#3922 4 years ago
Quoted from TOK:

Isn't the node/shaker thing specific to Spike hardware? If that stuff is in 1.64, it makes me wonder if Metallica might be re-run for a longer time than we thought!

Lets hope so!

1 week later
#4007 4 years ago

Ive had this problem too. I adjusted the braket a bit so that the drop target sits on the ledge evenly left to right across the face of the drop target (not just one corner or the other). It is really easy to adjust it so that the target doesnt fall down when hit... So its a bit of a PITA. You can also play with the spring tension/length a bit too. Some have even added or removed washers to move the drop closer/fruther away from the ledge...

#4011 4 years ago

Sorry i should have been more specific. I meant that i bent the bracket itself so that the shelf was parallel to the drop target as much as possible. Small adustments. The whole process is a nightmare...

Playfield up
Remove bracket
Adjust
Replace bracket
Playfield down
Test
Repeat.

#4016 4 years ago

Glad you guys got to the bottom of the problem!

#4062 4 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

In other news, whenever AJFA starts, that's nearly always a guaranteed drain for me. 100K total. Kiss of death!

I hear you brother! Same here. Even if I ignore it and try to block the mode running out of my mind...

Rick

#4088 4 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I thought that a properly set-up machine was supposed to bounce into the crank it up scoop when doing this. Glad to see I'm not the only one that doesn't happen with as I've tried everything to get it to do so.

I got the plunge all the way around to bounce off the flippers and into the scoop today a couple times. Doesnt happen every time, and it usually has to be a solid plunge that stays glued to the ball guide the whole way around the back of sparky.

Thanks everyone for the strategy comments in the last day or so. Worked on my right ramp, piston target combo some today. Feels good when you get it.

#4089 4 years ago

So dumb question. Does hitting the piston target restart the timer on double scoreing? Im thinking it does. But didnt know for sure.

#4101 4 years ago

Yep. Its subtle, but the artwork on the top of the pops matches the artwork around those three inserts to visually tie them together.

A number of hits to the bottom pop will eventually light the middle insert.
Left pop --> Left insert
Right pop --> Right insert

#4103 4 years ago

Most important thing is you had fun! Dont worry about if you play well, i sure dont. But its the fun factor thats important!

#4105 4 years ago
Quoted from Nexyss:

I just need to figure out why I can hit the shots almost at will when I don't need to, but when points are at stake, I brick the shots every time. lol

I do the same!

#4121 4 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Sounds like the switch is not being triggered consistently. Try bending the arm on the switch a little.

+1

Bend the switch arm up a hair towards the center of where the ball will be when in the scoop.

1 week later
#4227 4 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I rewatched some. it doesn't start acting funny until after crank it up around 14:00

I think it stayed on the left loop cause hed already locked in the left ramp, grave, and right loop seek and destroy hurry ups.. Only time it would move was either to the right ramp or back to the left loop.

#4245 4 years ago

It seems that of somone wanted to simulate the RGB lights of the prem with the pro they could drop the red out of the rgb and allow the insert to fill that in. Is that crazy? Anyone tried something like that?

Desired color red, then make the rgb white.
Desired color purple, then make the rgb bluish

#4247 4 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Yes, I've looked at this. The red of the insert is way too strong. A blue LED under it doesn't make it purple at all unfortunately. It's just a dimmer red.

Oh well it was a thought

1 week later
#4313 4 years ago

I was about to say that TimeBandit would probably have the start of grave mb worked out and would be the guy to talk to. You are the mastaaaaa

#4330 4 years ago

Looks fantastic! Far more artistic than i could do... Only suggestion i could make would be to lower the horizontal part of the H a bit. But that is a nit pick.

Awesome work!

1 week later
#4374 4 years ago

Yikes. I never under stood why that target didnt go in front of his feet more. Hope you find a solution.

Maybe a small pin/rod drilled into both pieces and then glued up?

#4411 4 years ago

If you got a used pro for under 4k and it was in good HOU shape, then i applaud you. Well done!

1 week later
#4446 4 years ago

Glad to hear its still going well Jeff!

1 week later
#4495 4 years ago

Factory mylar in front of both snake and mystery scoop on my machine

2 weeks later
#4579 4 years ago

I've used a very small dab of blue locktite on the screw. Don't put it on the side near the plastic though. Just the top where the screw holds the spot to the hex post. Also helpful to use an adjustable wrench on the hex post when tightening the screw so you don't run the post down on the sling plastic too tight

Edit:Oh my bad. I thought u meant the whole spot comes off or gets loose and points off in wrong direction.

3 weeks later
#4730 4 years ago
Quoted from skywalker:

I checked & readjusted all pops leafs & tested ok,
I also noticed this,
When i play more than 1 player, 2nd, 3rd, 4th players start on 00, 1st starts on 170,
Edit, when the other players start there ball also changes to 170
009.JPG

tap the playfield near the trough or other areas. Maybe the vibrations of it kicking a ball out is making a switch contact and so scoring.
Interesting that its always 170. I'm not sure what even scores 170 points. but that might also be a clue. if you start a game and then hit some targets or rollovers and pay attention to the score you get for each type of target.

Wild guess is that it may be the inlane outlane rollovers or something near the trough.

What if you short plunge and the ball rolls back into the shooter lane. does that count another 170?

#4754 4 years ago

I bought a coffin sticker and a snake head from imdarras 2 years ago and didn't have any issues getting my stuff. Wonder what's up...

#4829 4 years ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

Got my premium up and running. Only noticing one thing I don't know if it's a software issue or not. When the ball goes into the right scoop and I hit both flippers to cancel out the animations it seems to have interrupted its thought. It won't come back out until it does a ball search. Also, I had extra ball lit and got it in the scoop twice. It kicked it but didn't give me the extra ball. Once was during multiball. Any suggestions?

That is common on the snake and the mystery scoop for met. The switch isnt giving the game a clean signal that the ball is in the scoop. So ball finder kicks it out.

Sounds like you need to adjust the arm of the switch on the mystery scoop. Just bend it slightly up toward the center of where the ball would be when its in the scoop. Small adjustments.

Hopefully that will get the switch to give a constant signal that the ball is there and the game will recognize it and kick it out.

I had the same thing on my snake scoop.

Good luck

#4834 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinterest:

I don't like the Master of P translight or art as well - so I picked up an early Premium and made my own version with EL tape in the side armor.
File_000.jpeg
File_000.jpeg

That looks awesome!

#4878 4 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Noticed some flakey snake switch behavior tonight... some balls not registering when inside the snake mouth on my pro. Wondering if this is a matter of a switch adjustment, or because I am missing the diode? Mine has none, and I've never seen a microswitch without a diode. Can one of you please take a quick look and verify? Thanks.

snake.jpg

I didnt take the time to look inside my machine, but did a quick check of the online manual and it looks like Snake eject switch is #54 and is marked as DOTS which means diode on terminal strip. So the diode is mounted separately under the playfield for that switch.

Hope that helps.

Rick

#4902 4 years ago

I used CT flat 8 with flex heads in the following order

Blue. White. Blue. Blue. White. Blue

The whites line up with circular electrode things on back drop. And the blues bring out the artwork lightning colors. Looks really nice!

2 weeks later
#4963 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

I have a met pro default, which I upgraded with all the cointaker leds (it looks really led pro now ).
But how are the backpanel flashers set up on a led pro, the 6 ones behind the backpanel? Mine shine now downwards because the classics bulbs where setup this way. Is this the same by default for the led pro or did they install them in a different way at Stern?

I used some of these in blue and white

http://cointaker.com/products/copy-of-2-89-flat-8-flex

The flexible head allows you to position it however you want. Worked well for me.

1 week later
#5016 3 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Rather than start a new thread, hope you guys don't mind me asking in the club....
Does anyone have the problem that the first inline graveyard drop (closest to front) almost always drops after reset/at start of ball? How do I fix it?

The drop targets can be a bit tricky to get adjusted . Mine did this same thing as well. Took some very minor adjustments/bends to the ledge that each drop sits on.

Look down from the top of the playfield and you can see the ledge that the target rests on. It its too much the target might not go down 100% of the time(esp hard hits). If its not enough the target may go back down after being reset.

Hope that helps

1 week later
#5100 3 years ago
Quoted from XpadreX:

Ok, I thought it was fixed, but them realized it was only after I took two balls out of the machine that it stopped autoloading three balls. The game says six balls, but if I remove two, them game after new game it does not auto fire. Any ideas? The difference on behavior does not seem consistent with optosz as the number of balls in the machine makes an impact.

Pretty sure all met models are 4 balls. So with 6 balls in there it will push balls out of trough until there are 3 at start of ball. Hence 3 balls in shooter lane.

Oops I posted when browser hadn't updated with others reaponses....

#5144 3 years ago

I ordered a sparky from Marco last night. I was surprised to see they had metallica MoP LE decals in stock.

#5163 3 years ago

Band members are related to Blackend mode. I didn't think they had anything to do with. EOTL. But I suck so haven't been close to EOTL...

Code wishlist if there was gonna be one would be for Blackened to be renamed 4 horsemen and the song added to game. That's probably a Longshot though.

#5170 3 years ago

Anybody have recommendations for touching up sparky feet. Mine has a couple places where the paint is blemished/chipped. What kind of paint? What color combo?

20151212_230157.jpg

#5195 3 years ago
Quoted from ScrewMan:

I'm in the club! Met Pro Led. This is my first machine and I'm very excited to get it in the basement tonight. Thanks to everyone contributing to this thread, the info here made the purchase decision easy. Hopefully, all goes smooth with the set up.

IMG_2503.jpg

Welcome. Enjoy. It's a great pin!

#5224 3 years ago
Quoted from XpadreX:

What would be a recommended set of balls to use?

Quoted from XpadreX:

What would be a recommended set of balls to use?

Oooo_shiny from PBL is what I use.

#5265 3 years ago

A clever moder might make a replacement back panel that had inserts in it and then some wiring to duplicate the inserts on the back panel?

3 weeks later
#5567 3 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Well shoot I was waxing my MET LE and and when I turned it back on after I was done the Sparky coil engaged pulling his head back and the coil is stuck that way (coil actuated all the time) the only way it will release is if I open the coin door. I have no idea what I could of done I did wax the playfield behind sparky and had to work around the coil that is now stuck on to do so... Any ideas?

The coil wire on my pro went down and plugged into a little board under the playfield. Not sure if it's the same on the LE. I'd check that board and make sure it's connectors didn't get loose.

When my sparky coil failed, those are the parts stern sent me that fixed it up.

1 week later
#5707 3 years ago

If I had to do it today, I'd buy CT double flex headed leds and adjust them so the full insert is lit. But when I did this a year or more ago those weren't available...

I made a plastic that mounts to existing playfield holes for left and right sockets. Then it has a mount for each of the original sockets centered below the insert. Works great. Kind of a PITA to get right though.

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