At start of game Grave marker Front position keeps lifting up and down (Solenoid keeps firing) for about 5-10 tries until the grave marker finally stays in the up position. Any ideas what could be causing this?
At start of game Grave marker Front position keeps lifting up and down (Solenoid keeps firing) for about 5-10 tries until the grave marker finally stays in the up position. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Quoted from Stron:At start of game Grave marker Front position keeps lifting up and down (Solenoid keeps firing) for about 5-10 tries until the grave marker finally stays in the up position. Any ideas what could be causing this?
It's worth contacting Stern support about it since they've probably run across it before. It may have something to do with the optos... in my case when targets would not reset properly, optos were partially blocked and worked intermittently.
Quoted from Roostking:So what's the answer on replacement pinballs?
Just roll the Stern balls....I couldnt tell a difference. (unless you have some PBL balls and want piece of mind)
Quoted from Stron:At start of game Grave marker Front position keeps lifting up and down (Solenoid keeps firing) for about 5-10 tries until the grave marker finally stays in the up position. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Does the drop target keep falling down? If so, the game will try several times to reset it to the up position at the start of each ball.
If the targets are all up and its still firing trying to put them up repeatedly, then i agree its probably an opto issue. Ive seen where the left ramp (M cutout) flasher can blind the opto and make the game fire the coil to reset the targets, or even score the first target hit when it is still up. To fix that i bent the bracket holding the flasher when i installed an led flasher, so that the led was closer to the playfield insert and therefore brighter from top. Side effect of this was that it didnt blind the opto anymore.
Quoted from V4Vendetta:so i lifted the playfield to check all the connectors were on tight and to see if I can level the magnet and this is what i saw.
ouch! that looks like the shims on the inside of the playfield gouged the sides of the playfield really bad. were the insides of the cabinet scratched up as well? not that it affects play, but this is definitely something that I wouldn't be happy about and would relay the photos to the distributor that you purchased the game from. you might get an un-populated board for your trouble.
if you do manage to get a populated playfield (as a swap), be aware that it's still quite a bit of work to perform the swap. there are a lot of cable ties that need to be cut and you will have to unplug all of the connectors from the left side harness at the back box. for some reason, there are molex connectors for the right side harness under the playfield, but none for the left side ones (which would have made a swap so much easier).
also:
I thought that I was good with my shooter rod, but apparently not. I'm going to go back in tonight and remove the 2 red screws completely. even with them loosened, there's not enough "give" to move the rod over enough so that it's striking the ball in the center on a consistent basis
for the auto plunge shooter, has anyone "tightened" up the hinge point so that there's less side-to-side slop in it? I've noticed that for multi-ball modes, some of the balls launch perfectly, while others (it's about 50-50) seem to be struck off center and kind of wobble up the shooter lane. given that there are 5 screws that hold that assembly in place, you would think that the QA/QC would be just a bit better to ensure that the auto plunge "fangs" that strike the ball are positioned correctly, but I'm guessing at minimum wage, this is just too much to ask for.
this is definitely something that I think that I'll voice at the fireside chat with Gary this year at the Chicago expo. if they are going to charge a premium for premiums and LE's, then the attention to detail needs to be a bit better. I'm sure Gary wouldn't be happy if he purchased a Lincoln or Cadillac and it was put together like some of the machines that I've recently seen.
Quoted from Stron:At start of game Grave marker Front position keeps lifting up and down (Solenoid keeps firing) for about 5-10 tries until the grave marker finally stays in the up position. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Sounds like the lip on the base of the target face is not seating on the bracket. Rises, doesn't catch, drops, repeat until it catches.
Is that what is happening? If so, then the solution is to take the assembly off, (remove a few screws and a connector) and see how the target is seating when lifted.
There may be an issue with the target itself such as a worn or broken lip, or there may be an issue with the spacing of the washers on the target rods. There are some threads describing the orientation of the washers that people have used. Look there.
In any case, it sounds mechanical, not electrical.
Quoted from pinballcorpse:Sounds like the lip on the base of the target face is not seating on the bracket. Rises, doesn't catch, drops, repeat until it catches.
This is what I was thinking as well. If this is the case, adding a small washer behind the plastic ledge could solve the problem. This fix is explained in this WPT service bulletin ...
I added some mods to my pro yesterday. Before doing anything, I installed some playfield support brackets that I picked up at Pinball Life. I was surprised that there weren't pre-drilled holes for the t-nuts. The last game I installed the brackets in was IM, and the holes were definitely there. Not a big deal, I just used the existing holes from the pegs. I can't stand games without support brackets because of that damn Stern "hump".
I also installed some neon green plastic protectors for the slings and outlanes, but I'm not sure if I like them. They look cool, but they drastically change the colors on the plastics. They also give a green tint to all the surrounding playfield artwork. I may swap them out with some clear protectors.
Quoted from V4Vendetta:My hammer magnet is sitting little bit higher and isn't flush to the playfield. How do I level it out? I looked under the playfield and don't really know what to do. Can someone help me out?
I'm at work right now, but later I can post pics on how to do it. It's fairly easy to level.
Rob
rob, does your method work for any of the magnets or just the hammer magnet? (looking forward to seeing your method)
Quoted from gweempose:I can't stand games without support brackets because of that damn Stern "hump".
I curse that damn hump weekly if not more. Lol
If I could blink and get rid of it life would be so much better.
Quoted from Arcade:I curse that damn hump weekly if not more. Lol
If I could blink and get rid of it life would be so much better.
once i learned how to do it without moving to the side of the machine and picking it up over the hump i curse it alot less its still a pain but slighly more bearable
Quoted from j_m_:also:
I thought that I was good with my shooter rod, but apparently not. I'm going to go back in tonight and remove the 2 red screws completely. even with them loosened, there's not enough "give" to move the rod over enough so that it's striking the ball in the center on a consistent basis
7 7/8" rod if all else fails. Marco.
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:So what's your trick?
theres a video floating around ill see if i can find and link it.. you have to have the service rails you cant do it with just the pegs, slide the playfield all the way in to the hump, rest it on the service rails, then use one arm to push down lifting the rear up the little needed to go over the hump... slides right back in
Quoted from PunkPin:theres a video floating around ill see if i can find and link it.. you have to have the service rails you cant do it with just the pegs, slide the playfield all the way in to the hump, rest it on the service rails, then use one arm to push down lifting the rear up the little needed to go over the hump... slides right back in
Thanks. I am aware of the service rail trick but I have 4 pro model games with pegs so I get to curse out the hump a lot. Lol
Maybe someday I will cough up the cash to put on rails. But it gets expensive fast.
Quoted from Arcade:Thanks. I am aware of the service rail trick but I have 4 pro model games with pegs so I get to curse out the hump a lot. Lol
Maybe someday I will cough up the cash to put on rails. But it gets expensive fast.
Just push it over the hump. It sounds scary but hurts nothing.
Quoted from flynnibus:Just push it over the hump. It sounds scary but hurts nothing.
The only thing that scares me about doing that is if it kicks to the side and screws up my side art. It takes a pretty good shove to get it over that hump.
Stupid design if you ask me.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:The only thing that scares me about doing that is if it kicks to the side and screws up my side art. It takes a pretty good shove to get it over that hump.
Stupid design if you ask me.
Just make sure to go straight. Won't harm sides if you don't go ape on it.
Quoted from gweempose:This is what I was thinking as well. If this is the case, adding a small washer behind the plastic ledge could solve the problem. This fix is explained in this WPT service bulletin ...
http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/downloads/sb165.pdf
Thank you Pinsider's for the tech support. I followed the Service bulletin #165 to repair my problem.
Quoted from Stron:Thank you Pinsider's for the tech support. I followed the Service bulletin #165 to repair my problem.
This fix won't work on Metallica in-line drops. They are completely different mechanism, all encased using a single rod through the three targets together.
In theory you can make it work, by adding washers behind the targets to push them forward, but there is no plastic ledge for you to do it the opposite way around. That's how I fixed mine, so I'm not sure how you used that tech bulletin to repair your issue.
Quoted from PunkPin:theres a video floating around ill see if i can find and link it.. you have to have the service rails you cant do it with just the pegs, slide the playfield all the way in to the hump, rest it on the service rails, then use one arm to push down lifting the rear up the little needed to go over the hump... slides right back in
I thought you had a better way with just the pegs. I knew the trick with the service rails, but I have yet to just "slam" it over the hump, doesn't seem right. Also very uncomfortable going to the side and lifting the rear to get over it as well. Stupid design.
Quoted from Meegis:This fix won't work on Metallica in-line drops. They are completely different mechanism, all encased using a single rod through the three targets together.
In theory you can make it work, by adding washers behind the targets to push them forward, but there is no plastic ledge for you to do it the opposite way around. That's how I fixed mine, so I'm not sure how you used that tech bulletin to repair your issue.
I agree. You can use washers in strategic positions, but this tech pub just doesn't apply to Mets inline drops.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:I agree. You can use washers in strategic positions, but this tech pub just doesn't apply to Mets inline drops.
That's my bad. Despite owning the machine, I haven't really looked closely at the drop target mech yet. I falsely assumed it would be similar to other games I've owned in the past.
One of my drop targets was dropping/triggering on its own.....and it was suggested on here to tighten the drop target by pulling the tension spring down a bit more so some of it was hanging over the hook it pulls from. I did this and it hasn't dropped by itself once since than.
I have noticed on my pro that balls often get rejected from the snake. It seems like it takes a dead perfect shot for the ball to stick in the mouth. Is this how it's supposed to be? Are there any adjustment I can make to the mechanism to give me a little more leeway?
Working on pinball machines can sometimes be incredibly frustrating. Yesterday, I was finishing up installing plastic protectors on the outlanes. When I was tightening up the final nut, the top of the post broke right off. Of course, this is one of the most difficult to replace posts in the entire game. I'm now going to have to remove the entire flipper assembly to get at it ...
Quoted from V4Vendetta:My hammer magnet is sitting little bit higher and isn't flush to the playfield. How do I level it out? I looked under the playfield and don't really know what to do. Can someone help me out?
It's covered in the manual:
Rob
Quoted from gweempose:Working on pinball machines can sometimes be incredibly frustrating. Yesterday, I was finishing up installing plastic protectors on the outlanes. When I was tightening up the final nut, the top of the post broke right off. Of course, this is one of the most difficult to replace posts in the entire game. I'm now going to have to remove the entire flipper assembly to get at it ...
That is a bummer! I have at least one of those experiences every time I shop a new pin.
On the flip side, your Metallica Insert Mod looks amazing. That's one green snake!
Quoted from gweempose:Working on pinball machines can sometimes be incredibly frustrating. Yesterday, I was finishing up installing plastic protectors on the outlanes. When I was tightening up the final nut, the top of the post broke right off. Of course, this is one of the most difficult to replace posts in the entire game. I'm now going to have to remove the entire flipper assembly to get at it ...
Oh crap. How hard are you cranking those nuts down? I've never had that problem, remember those are Nylocks and all you have to do with plastics like that is just barely snug then down. I put mine on just a little more then finger tight and have never had any of then come off.
Quoted from MustangPaul:How hard are you cranking those nuts down? I've never had that problem, remember those are Nylocks and all you have to do with plastics like that is just barely snug then down. I put mine on just a little more then finger tight and have never had any of then come off.
I think what happened is that the nut wasn't on straight, causing uneven force to be applied to the threads as I tightened it. I should have started it by hand, but the nut was already in my nut driver. I'll certainly be a lot more careful in the future.
On a positive note, this may be just the incentive I need to install the extra lights beneath the inlane guides for the Total Lightshow mod.
Quoted from gweempose:I also installed some neon green plastic protectors for the slings and outlanes, but I'm not sure if I like them. They look cool, but they drastically change the colors on the plastics.
This is what our TruColor protectors solve. You get the edges without color bombing the plastics. http://pinballbulbs.com/true-color-protectors
Quoted from markmon:This is what our TruColor protectors solve. You get the edges without color bombing the plastics. http://pinballbulbs.com/true-color-protectors
pretty cool idea, will have to look more into those
What is the best fix for shooter lane, drain and mystery protection? I was hoping my NIB from early this year would be exempt. But, my drain hole clear has started peeling up. Will mylar work or should I invest in some sort of metal protectors. I would rather not use metal protectors if possible. They always make scoop shots way more difficult.
Quoted from Gorno:What is the best fix for shooter lane, drain and mystery protection? I was hoping my NIB from early this year would be exempt. But, my drain hole clear has started peeling up. Will mylar work or should I invest in some sort of metal protectors. I would rather not use metal protectors if possible. They always make scoop shots way more difficult.
I had the same issue almost immediately on my game.
I contacted Cliffy regarding a protector for the drain hole and he said he is working on it as he needs it for his own Metallica as well. Not ready yet AFAIK. I'd put mylar there and make sure you cover the inside edges of the playfield in the hole as they chip off in no time at all. Stern is sending me a "repair kit" but I haven't received it yet so don't know what it contains.
I put the Mantis protector that goes inside the mystery scope on mine but I can already see the clear is starting to chip at the top edge of the hole anyway so I'd just put the cliffy on there and be done with it. Stern's clearcoat is ridiculously fragile on any edges it seems.
For the shooter lane I've read folks having problems with the metal cliffy's there interfering with the normal ball flow. Folks using Mylar there report no wear so use that instead (looks better with mylar too imho). You might still want to get the metal protector that goes on the black wood rail beside the shooter lane.
I used Avery self-laminating sheets instead of mylar everywhere except the drain hole and it seems to work well and is easy to apply and can be removed or replaced anytime. Others have also reported good experiences with it preventing wear over an extended period. Plus you can pick it inexpensively at a Walmart or office supply store.
You'll also want to apply mylar around the magnets and under the ramp drops. Using the self-laminating sheet material I just went ahead and covered the whole area in front of Spary's feet past the magnet since it sees so much action. Can't really tell that it is there.
I had the chance to speak with Lyman at the Pintastic show and thank him for the latest code update. Cool guy to talk to. He said a bug was discovered after the 1.7 release, I guess the music after the game is over cuts off too early. He's fixing it and releasing that update soon. If you haven't installed 1.7 yet and want to wait, prob a smart idea. If you already installed 1.7 the bug isn't that big a deal but just wanted you all to know.
Quoted from mrgregb123:I had the chance to speak with Lyman at the Pintastic show and thank him for the latest code update. Cool guy to talk to. He said a bug was discovered after the 1.7 release, I guess the music after the game is over cuts off too early. He's fixing it and releasing that update soon. If you haven't installed 1.7 yet and want to wait, prob a smart idea. If you already installed 1.7 the bug isn't that big a deal but just wanted you all to know.
That would be great if he did that update! Too bad I finally put up a decent score on my MET though.
Can anyone post some of the new call out's they have heard.
We have played over 30, 3 player games, so we are close to 100 games on the new code and have yet to hear anything new.
The only thing I think may be new is when you reach the score level for a free game and the game says "Hey, thats a free game".
But I'm not really even sure that is new.
So far the only thing we have noticed is the little crank it up bonus text screen you get when you collect your crank it up.
Edit... Finally heard a new quote today. During Sparky Multiball a band member said "Hurry the hell up"
It's always bothered me that a decent remaster/re-recording has never been done of the earlier albums (except ride the lightning). In the meantime, I found some covers by bands that I like, perhaps you will like them too.
487 Battery (Machine Head)
602 Blackened (Between the Buried and Me)
713 Creeping Death (Stone Sour, but there is a remastered one)
784 Enter Sandman
856 Fade to Black
911 For Whom the Bell Tolls (Sabaton)
950 Fuel
1009 Master of Puppets (Trivium)
1077 One
1210 Ride the Lightning
1292 Sad But True
1362 Seek and Destroy
1440 End of the Line
1505 Unforgiven
Quoted from mrgregb123:I had the chance to speak with Lyman at the Pintastic show and thank him for the latest code update. Cool guy to talk to. He said a bug was discovered after the 1.7 release, I guess the music after the game is over cuts off too early. He's fixing it and releasing that update soon. If you haven't installed 1.7 yet and want to wait, prob a smart idea. If you already installed 1.7 the bug isn't that big a deal but just wanted you all to know.
I wish someone would ask him about ACDC code. I'd just like to know if it's final or not.
If he's going to release a bugfix, I hope he considers adding a insert light effect for when the spinner is ready for big points.
Rob
Quoted from knockerlover:It's always bothered me that a decent remaster/re-recording has never been done of the earlier albums (except ride the lightning). In the meantime, I found some covers by bands that I like, perhaps you will like them too.
487 Battery (Machine Head)
602 Blackened (Between the Buried and Me)
713 Creeping Death (Stone Sour, but there is a remastered one)
784 Enter Sandman
856 Fade to Black
911 For Whom the Bell Tolls (Sabaton)
950 Fuel
1009 Master of Puppets (Trivium)
1077 One
1210 Ride the Lightning
1292 Sad But True
1362 Seek and Destroy
1440 End of the Line
1505 Unforgiven
check out the Fuel cover by Vanna might be a good addition to your list
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