Quoted from jim5six:Mine bounces back so hard its almost like a sling. Guess I'll order the metal one Tuesday.
Where can I buy one of those posts?
Quoted from jim5six:Mine bounces back so hard its almost like a sling. Guess I'll order the metal one Tuesday.
Where can I buy one of those posts?
Does anyone have an issue of the ball getting stuck in the left orbit lane? If the ball is moving slow, it gets stuck.
Quoted from finnflash:Does anyone have an issue of the ball getting stuck in the left orbit lane? If the ball is moving slow, it gets stuck.
You just need to bend the wire guide a little. It should not be getting stuck.
Quoted from finnflash:Does anyone have an issue of the ball getting stuck in the left orbit lane? If the ball is moving slow, it gets stuck.
When I had my METLE for two years, the ball never got stuck once. With my pro, it was getting stuck a lot. I'd bend the wire guide, which would help for a while, but then it would stick again. Finally when I had the ramp return and plastics off in the area recently, I had more room to push and bend. It's been ok since.
Quoted from gweempose:Does this set include the extended sparky protector?
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_74&products_id=562&zenid=f26cba9ba8f158d87f7942119ce9b0a0
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:Yup! It even says clear sparky protector included but not shown.
Thanks! I was confused, because I thought they were perhaps referring to a non-extended version of the protector.
ok, I'm finally officially in the club now. it only took me 1 year, 2 months, and 5 days to un-box my monster premium
I've swapped out the side rails and hinges with these
side rails
and am currently going through my "punch out" list before the first game is played. it's going to be a rockin' 4th of july this year
woo-hoo!
Quoted from j_m_:ok, I'm finally officially in the club now. it only took me 1 year, 2 months, and 5 days to un-box my monster premium
I've swapped out the side rails and hinges with theseand am currently going through my "punch out" list before the first game is played. it's going to be a rockin' 4th of july this year
Nice! Where did you score the side rails? From the uk?
Quoted from gweempose:Thanks! I was confused, because I thought they were perhaps referring to a non-extended version of the protector.
You got it! Best game ever!!!
Quoted from j_m_:ok, I'm finally officially in the club now. it only took me 1 year, 2 months, and 5 days to un-box my monster premium
I've swapped out the side rails and hinges with theseand am currently going through my "punch out" list before the first game is played. it's going to be a rockin' 4th of july this year
It's about time!! Congrats on finally getting it out of the box!!
Phoebe
Installed Hank Scorpios insert led mod. What a difference.
Thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-metallica-led-insert-mod-cross-chair-coffin-snake-1/page/2#post-3230114
Before and after
Quoted from Meegis:Uploaded backwards, lol
The after is the full colour. Before is bulb spotting.
Yeah that is a great mod. Now to do the other big inserts.
Quoted from j_m_:ok, I'm finally officially in the club now. it only took me 1 year, 2 months, and 5 days to un-box my monster premium
I've swapped out the side rails and hinges with these
Where can I find these rails?
Quoted from Rob_G:You only get 1 shot of elevated points per completion of pic targets. The problem is that there's nothing to tell you the spinner is ready to be hit for higher points.
Anyone have the Metallica PRO code song master location list? I've been search the site for 45 minutes & can't find it anywhere.
Knew I should have wrote this stuff down when I swapped out some songs on the 1.64 code
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Anyone have the Metallica PRO code song master location list? I've been search the site for 45 minutes & can't find it anywhere.
Knew I should have wrote this stuff down when I swapped out some songs on the 1.64 code
It's listed on post #7410 of this thread
One of the best things I like with the new code is now the Blown Pistons is actually worth going for. Before it was almost impossible to reach 10 blown pistons for the extra ball. Now I can get it on almost everytime I play. Keeps getting better and better. Lovin the new code
I do like the blown piston being brought more into the game. Wish there was a callout or something not on the dmd to indicate you got one.
Like the kirk
Yeah, double score
When you hit the lane for 2x
Maybe james yeah yeah or sometging like a motor blowing up.
Quoted from finnflash:Does anyone have an issue of the ball getting stuck in the left orbit lane? If the ball is moving slow, it gets stuck.
Never. Mine just keeps getting stuck on the snakes lip/
Quoted from newpinbin:Never. Mine just keeps getting stuck on the snakes lip/
Mine does that too, and also when it rests against the pop bumper.
Quoted from Blackstorm:One of the best things I like with the new code is now the Blown Pistons is actually worth going for. Before it was almost impossible to reach 10 blown pistons for the extra ball. Now I can get it on almost everytime I play. Keeps getting better and better. Lovin the new code
Are blown pistons only good for an extra ball or do they count for anything else? What's the difference between when the lights are solid as opposed to blinking?
Rob
Quoted from Rob_G:Are blown pistons only good for an extra ball or do they count for anything else? What's the difference between when the lights are solid as opposed to blinking?
Rob
Blinking indicates the combo shot. Combos finished that the blown piston shot increase in value each time you hit them and add up fast.
Quoted from rai:Where can I find these rails?
I got mine from Pinball.center.com
But it looks like they are now sold out.
I also added EL paper behind so that they light up.
Cutout Backbox hinges are also available
These are available.
Quoted from j_m_:your EL paper looks great. do you have a link for that?
I'm finally finishing up "bullet proofing" and modding up my premium before firing the first ball. I think that I'm going to put together a check-list of sorts with lessons learned/tips so that other people aren't left scratching their heads.
here's a for instance:
I didn't dawn on me until I removed the rubber rings from the original red in-lane guides at the top that one side of those plastic posts are wider than the other. I changed my out to blue (to match the play field art) and since I was doing that, I didn't even think to remove the rubber rings (since I was also changing out all of the rubber rings to titan's silicone product.
stern_lane_guide_(resized).jpg
however, after getting about 3/4 of the way through the process, I was left scratching my head as to why I still had these (2) 5/16" ID rings and had nearly gone through all of the 3/16" ID rings
btw, the [wider] section should be positioned at the bottom (where the ball exits out to the pop bumpers. the far right lane guide uses a 7/16" ID ring that bridges between the wider post column of the lane guide and a metal post.
ps
changing the rubber on this machine is still quite the b*tch given the amount of parts that you have to tear off (including the right ramp and most of the plastics behind the snake near the pop bumpers to change out 3 more of those little 7/16" OD rings that fit over the spear type metal posts since they are [hidden] under the that plastic.
also, look forward to spending a good hour or more removing all of the above and the hammer to change out the newton block to a captured ball set up. (however, I am liking the choice that I made going with one of matt's (back alley creations) black pearl balls for the captured ball
MET_captured_ball_(resized).JPG
pps
yes, my snake will get his teeth (soon). it looks like the easiest way to do that is to remove the entire mech to gain access to that elusive screw inside his mouth to loosen up the area between the head and the metal plate and insert his new dentures
Quoted from j_m_:I didn't dawn on me until I removed the rubber rings from the original red in-lane guides at the top that one side of those plastic posts are wider than the other.
A lot of the Stern games are like that. I've never understood why, but I'm sure there's a logical reason for it.
Quoted from yzfguy:Oooh....never thought of a black pearl for the captive ball!
I use Glo balls in captive ball areas. I thought about green here, but I like the contrast of orange next to the green target and snake. Pink in Daredevil Bart on TSPP. I like the way they stand out.
Quoted from newpinbin:Mine just keeps getting stuck on the snakes lip/
Mine did this as well... at the factory they installed the screw supporting the snake tongue too low inside of the jaw. The only solution is to remove the entire snake assembly so that you can relocate the screw so that the tongue is raised and level with the snake's lip. It's a real pain to do but very much worth while.
In the below pic you can see the hole where the screw was originally installed.
So back in late fall 2013, within a few months of owning my Met pro, my sparky coil fried. Talked to my distro and stern sent me a new coil and little driver board. I replaced it and its been good ever since.
I think they have changed the design now and the sparky coil is tied to the spotlight flashers so the coil wont fire unless the flashers are on too. I figure new mets rolling of the line have this fixed. It should eliminate the coindoor sparky coil lock on issue.
But my replacement board from stern in late 2013 was before this redesign.
With this in mind, I had bought this from pinball life a few months ago just to have when if i had the problem again
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4081
I was cleaning the other day an heard the famous sparky coil click on when it shouldn't have and i instantly turned off the machine. Nothing fried but it told me it was time to install the new kit...
Looking for help from any of you that may have done tis before. I followed the directions, but must have done something wrong cause neither sparky coil or the flashers would work. I ended up taking it back off and everything is back to normal.
When i was done following the directions (which are kinda vague IMHO) neither of the connections for the flashers from the game were used. Which is most likely why i didnt ger either the coil or flashers to work.
If someone could take a few pics of how this kit is connected i would appreciate it. Is one of the flasher connectors used and the other one not?
Heres what i had
New board installed
New harness plugged into new board.
Old 5 wire connector that used to go to the old board, plugged into harness z connector
Both sparky spotlight flashers rewired to the orange 2 wire connectors on the new harness.
It seems like somehow this ought to plug into the factory harness for the flashers some how. Im missing something....
Quoted from finnflash:Mine does that too, and also when it rests against the pop bumper.
Any way to fix the ball from getting stuck on the snakes lip? This just started happening.
Quoted from Baiter:Mine did this as well... at the factory they installed the screw supporting the snake tongue too low inside of the jaw. The only solution is to remove the entire snake assembly so that you can relocate the screw so that the tongue is raised and level with the snake's lip. It's a real pain to do but very much worth while.
In the below pic you can see the hole where the screw was originally installed.
Yours was doing this?
Quoted from newpinbin:Any way to fix the ball from getting stuck on the snakes lip? This just started happening.
I fixed this problem on mine. There is an adjustment screw with a lock nut you can access from the underside. I recall it being rather difficult to see. This adjusts a stopper that will raise/lower the open position of the snake jaw.
Quoted from newpinbin:Any way to fix the ball from getting stuck on the snakes lip? This just started happening.
Lube
quick question:
how do you adjust the shooter rod housing so that it strikes the ball in the center? I finally got through everything and noticed that the rod is striking the ball to the right side of center and I don't see any way (other than shimming) to change the angle of the shooter rod since it's just attached using the 3 screws to pin both sides of the cabinet
Quoted from j_m_:I'm finally finishing up "bullet proofing" and modding up my premium before firing the first ball. I think that I'm going to put together a check-list of sorts with lessons learned/tips so that other people aren't left scratching their heads.
here's a for instance:
I didn't dawn on me until I removed the rubber rings from the original red in-lane guides at the top that one side of those plastic posts are wider than the other. I changed my out to blue (to match the play field art) and since I was doing that, I didn't even think to remove the rubber rings (since I was also changing out all of the rubber rings to titan's silicone product.however, after getting about 3/4 of the way through the process, I was left scratching my head as to why I still had these (2) 5/16" ID rings and had nearly gone through all of the 3/16" ID rings
btw, the [wider] section should be positioned at the bottom (where the ball exits out to the pop bumpers. the far right lane guide uses a 7/16" ID ring that bridges between the wider post column of the lane guide and a metal post.
ps
changing the rubber on this machine is still quite the b*tch given the amount of parts that you have to tear off (including the right ramp and most of the plastics behind the snake near the pop bumpers to change out 3 more of those little 7/16" OD rings that fit over the spear type metal posts since they are [hidden] under the that plastic.
also, look forward to spending a good hour or more removing all of the above and the hammer to change out the newton block to a captured ball set up. (however, I am liking the choice that I made going with one of matt's (back alley creations) black pearl balls for the captured ballpps
yes, my snake will get his teeth (soon). it looks like the easiest way to do that is to remove the entire mech to gain access to that elusive screw inside his mouth to loosen up the area between the head and the metal plate and insert his new dentures
Why are you changing all of the rubber?
Quoted from Roostking:Why are you changing all of the rubber?
I wanted to put in the titan silicone rings to see how they play
Quoted from j_m_:quick question:
how do you adjust the shooter rod housing so that it strikes the ball in the center? I finally got through everything and noticed that the rod is striking the ball to the right side of center and I don't see any way (other than shimming) to change the angle of the shooter rod since it's just attached using the 3 screws to pin both sides of the cabinet
Fwiw I installed a 7 7/8" plunger yesterday since not all plunges were "clean". Plunges much better now. Not sure why stern uses the shorter 7 5/8" plunger. Tip now rests gently against ball. Slightly off center, yes, but of no concern with longer plunger.
For the record, Auto plunge mech adjusted to prevent strikes to pf. Deburred too.
Quoted from Jaybird815:Finally got around to getting rid of the box
That's awsome!!!
Happy 4th!
Quoted from Rickwh:So back in late fall 2013, within a few months of owning my Met pro, my sparky coil fried. Talked to my distro and stern sent me a new coil and little driver board. I replaced it and its been good ever since.
I think they have changed the design now and the sparky coil is tied to the spotlight flashers so the coil wont fire unless the flashers are on too. I figure new mets rolling of the line have this fixed. It should eliminate the coindoor sparky coil lock on issue.
But my replacement board from stern in late 2013 was before this redesign.
With this in mind, I had bought this from pinball life a few months ago just to have when if i had the problem again
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4081
I was cleaning the other day an heard the famous sparky coil click on when it shouldn't have and i instantly turned off the machine. Nothing fried but it told me it was time to install the new kit...
Looking for help from any of you that may have done tis before. I followed the directions, but must have done something wrong cause neither sparky coil or the flashers would work. I ended up taking it back off and everything is back to normal.
When i was done following the directions (which are kinda vague IMHO) neither of the connections for the flashers from the game were used. Which is most likely why i didnt ger either the coil or flashers to work.
If someone could take a few pics of how this kit is connected i would appreciate it. Is one of the flasher connectors used and the other one not?
Heres what i had
New board installed
New harness plugged into new board.
Old 5 wire connector that used to go to the old board, plugged into harness z connector
Both sparky spotlight flashers rewired to the orange 2 wire connectors on the new harness.
It seems like somehow this ought to plug into the factory harness for the flashers some how. Im missing something....
Reread instructions. Looks like one step that through me off says to find the 2, 2 wire connections to the left sparky flasher. I missread that and thought it meant find both the 2 wire connectors for the left and the right sparky flasher.
I'll hook it up next time i get a chance. should work fine.
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