(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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#6951 3 years ago
Quoted from cards25:

Good for you, Jay. Enjoy it. What a fantastic game!!

Thanks, it was nice meeting you at the GB launch party. I'll be in touch!

#6952 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

So the power wire that runs from back box to the front of cab to be plugged in. I have the FTS-8 splitter mounted on side of cab, do I install the power plug in there correct? Should be getting it tomorrow, so getting ready for install.

Yes, you can plug it in to any one of the 8 plugs on the FTS-8.

You also need to download the ColorDMD MET software on a thumbdrive and load it on the display after installing. It won't come pre-installed.

#6953 3 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

Yes, you can plug it in to any one of the 8 plugs on the FTS-8.
You also need to download the ColorDMD MET software on a thumbdrive and load it on the display after installing. It won't come pre-installed.

Yep did that 2 days ago, it's how I found out they just did an update on April 26th.

#6954 3 years ago

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#6955 3 years ago

I've got the same craftsman garage door open as james hetfield!

#6956 3 years ago

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#6957 3 years ago

Got the ColorDMD delivered today, and got it installed tonight. When I took out the stock unit, there was a black cutout thing after I removed the red film. I did not put the black cutout thing back in when I installed the new display. It wasn't mentioned anywhere that it was there, or needed to be installed. Anyway, I also noticed, when in hi res mode, that glare guards are no longer needed. I have zero glare from players point of view. I did notice if you squat down then the dmd glares on the glass, but who plays in a position like that. This dmd is a must have. Took me a year to finally get one,. It was damn well worth the wait.

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#6958 3 years ago

welcome to the club the colorDMD animations are fantastic for both metallica and ac/dc

the ColorDMD is only utilizing about 1/3 of the total area of its lcd panel, so there isn't the light leakage that the original dmd produces at the edges of the display

ps
you should purchase a desktop sized run-dmd clock kit and take advantage of that original LED dmd that is now just sitting around
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/run-dmd-clock-kits-for-stern-led-panels

#6959 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

When I took out the stock unit, there was a black cutout thing after I removed the red film.

On one of my games I didn't have the seal around the DMD and had some bleed from the light behind the translite.... could that be it?

#6960 3 years ago

Would you guys with the pinball refinery sound activated speaker lights and back cabinet lights recommend them?
They look very cool but hard to tell in the videos.
Is the install easy?

#6961 3 years ago

Been playing the hell out of my new Metallica and loving it, a couple things I noticed is that on sparky multiball it doesn't always catch the ball. And the grave drops aren't always registering. Any ideas?

#6962 3 years ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

Been playing the hell out of my new Metallica and loving it, a couple things I noticed is that on sparky multiball it doesn't always catch the ball. And the grave drops aren't always registering. Any ideas?

It only catches when sparky a meter is full during multiball.
The grave markers won't fall if they're hit too fast. If you waxed the game it usually takes a game or 10 to get back to normal.

#6963 3 years ago

Thanks, Its been waxed. I'm talking when you initially start multiball it doesn't catch about 25% of the time

#6964 3 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

welcome to the club the colorDMD animations are fantastic for both metallica and ac/dc
the ColorDMD is only utilizing about 1/3 of the total area of its lcd panel, so there isn't the light leakage that the original dmd produces at the edges of the display
ps
you should purchase a desktop sized run-dmd clock kit and take advantage of that original LED dmd that is now just sitting around
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/run-dmd-clock-kits-for-stern-led-panels

I'd be definitely interested in that. Wouldn't be able to afford for awhile though, but gonna save my display and buy your kit. Where can we purchase at?

#6965 3 years ago

I'm wondering about my grave markers not registering as well. They drop everytime they are hit. But sometimes they don't award the lane with the lit arrow a cross. When I test them in switch test mode they register everytime they drop.

#6966 3 years ago

Check the switch arms under each drop target. Make sure when each drop target drops that it triggers the switch. Maybe just a simple adjustment. I have no idea about the sparky magnet issue. Unless you are getting airballs and it's jumping over the magnet. Get in touch with Rickwh here on Pinside and order one of his extended sparky protectors. Stops 99% of airballs from sparky.

#6967 3 years ago

I had this happen a few times. Still flipping the ball around while the electrocution sequence is happening. I also had the mystery scoop not shoot ball back out until the game went into "ball search" then it finally shot back out. That has happened once so far.

#6968 3 years ago
Quoted from Baiter:

On one of my games I didn't have the seal around the DMD and had some bleed from the light behind the translite.... could that be it?

I guess that's what it's for but apparently not needed for colordmd. No bleed through of any backbox lights. I have the pinball refinery interactive light board too.

#6969 3 years ago

Real quick, while I had the speaker panel down installing the new color display, I noticed the ground cables on the backbox speakers were oriented strange. The left speaker had the grounding wire at the bottom screw and the right speaker had its grounding wire on the top screw. Is that an issue? I switch the cable from the right speaker to the bottom screw like the left speaker. Really not sure if it's a big deal where there mounted, but apparently it matters with the colordmd needs it's grounding cables to be mounted at the top 2 screws. Let me know about this.

#6970 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Real quick, while I had the speaker panel down installing the new color display, I noticed the ground cables on the backbox speakers were oriented strange. The left speaker had the grounding wire at the bottom screw and the right speaker had its grounding wire on the top screw. Is that an issue? I switch the cable from the right speaker to the bottom screw like the left speaker. Really not sure if it's a big deal where there mounted, but apparently it matters with the colordmd needs it's grounding cables to be mounted at the top 2 screws. Let me know about this.

As long as the grounding straps are touching metal, it doesn't matter where on that piece of metal. Doesn't matter on ColorDMD either.

#6971 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I guess that's what it's for but apparently not needed for colordmd. No bleed through of any backbox lights. I have the pinball refinery interactive light board too.

Same here and no problem.

#6972 3 years ago

Hey guys - just installed ColorDMD on an LED metal backbox version. Is it normal for this display to be noticeably far away from the speakerbox panel? I installed it exactly as shown in the instructions (OK, well the mounting instructions at ColorDMD.com are for the old backbox and are wrong for the metal one - but the instructions for the hex/plexiglass add-on were followed exactly) and you can see the edges of the color DMD display if you look to the side. It sits 1" to 1.5" away from the speakerbox panel....is this normal?

#6973 3 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

you can see the edges of the color DMD display if you look to the side. It sits 1" to 1.5" away from the speakerbox panel....is this normal?

Normal. The lip on the metal panel and center studs prevent mounting it closer. Weather stripping or foam tape can be used to fill the gap between the panel and the LCD screen.

#6974 3 years ago

I am kind of a new owner. Can somebody confirm that the only time a cross insert should light is when the red arrow for a lane is lit and then you hit a grave marker drop target or the cross behind them. I have noticed I can get a cross insert lit sometimes by hitting a ramp etc. However once this happens when I do hit a drop target they will not light a cross insert for a lane with the red arrow lit, especially when it's the 2nd or 3rd drop target. Once they are all down hitting the cross always registers fine.

After doing a little research I noticed that I do not have the inline drop target opto shroud/reflector installed. I guess this was a fix by stern to keep the light show from blinding the optos and causing drop targets to reset. Could not having this shroud also cause phantom drop target hits from a light show messing with the optos?

As I said in an earlier post, in switch test mode the drop targets register 100 percent of the time. It's only during game play that I get phantom hits and then actual hits won't register. I am not having any drop target reset problems which is what I believe the fix was initially for.

I am running the most current code. I have ordered the opto shroud from Marco. I just want to make sure that i am not misunderstanding the rules to begin with. I hope this post wasn't too confusing.

#6975 3 years ago
Quoted from rawbars:

I am kind of a new owner. Can somebody confirm that the only time a cross insert should light is when the red arrow for a lane is lit and then you hit a grave marker drop target or the cross behind them. I have noticed I can get a cross insert lit sometimes by hitting a ramp etc. However once this happens when I do hit a drop target they will not light a cross insert for a lane with the red arrow lit, especially when it's the 2nd or 3rd drop target. Once they are all down hitting the cross always registers fine.
After doing a little research I noticed that I do not have the inline drop target opto shroud/reflector installed. I guess this was a fix by stern to keep the light show from blinding the optos and causing drop targets to reset. Could not having this shroud also cause phantom drop target hits from a light show messing with the optos?
As I said in an earlier post, in switch test mode the drop targets register 100 percent of the time. It's only during game play that I get phantom hits and then actual hits won't register. I am not having any drop target reset problems which is what I believe the fix was initially for.
I am running the most current code. I have ordered the opto shroud from Marco. I just want to make sure that i am not misunderstanding the rules to begin with. I hope this post wasn't too confusing.

I think it was straightforward, and your understanding is definitely correct.

#6976 3 years ago

Thanks, then I am definitely getting awarded cross inserts when I shouldn't be. And then not getting awarded cross inserts when I should be. I am hoping the opto shroud fixes the problem. In the mean time I am going to do some in game testing and see if there are specific things that trigger the problem.

#6977 3 years ago

Anyone have the sparky magnet stop working? Sparky still shakes but balls are not caught by magnet like they should be. I think there is a fuse under there . I will check tommorrow.

#6978 3 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Anyone have the sparky magnet stop working? Sparky still shakes but balls are not caught by magnet like they should be. I think there is a fuse under there . I will check tommorrow.

The fuse is in the backbox, along with a very handy chart that shows what's what.

#6979 3 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Anyone have the sparky magnet stop working? Sparky still shakes but balls are not caught by magnet like they should be. I think there is a fuse under there . I will check tommorrow.

Are they being caught every once in awhile? Or never?

#6980 3 years ago
Quoted from rawbars:

Thanks, then I am definitely getting awarded cross inserts when I shouldn't be. And then not getting awarded cross inserts when I should be. I am hoping the opto shroud fixes the problem. In the mean time I am going to do some in game testing and see if there are specific things that trigger the problem.

I had this. The flasher light that lights up the left ramp M cutout was blinding the opto and causing the game to score cross drops.

I accidentally fixed it when i installed led flashers. The led flasher is much shorter than the incandescent flasher. So i bent the bulb socket bracket so the flasher is closer to the insert/ramp. After doing that the problem went away.

As a test, try removing the flasher for the left ramp and play a game or two and see of you still get phantom cross hits.

Rick

#6981 3 years ago

This is the original MET PRO but the previous owner did convert it to all LEDs. I'll check that flasher and see if it's my problem. Thanks for the tip.

#6982 3 years ago

Yep, the left ramp flasher was giving me phantom cross hits. I removed it and everything works the way it's supposed to. Once I get and install the opto shroud I should be able to put the flasher back in place.

#6983 3 years ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

Are they being caught every once in awhile? Or never?

Never being caught. Now I notice all magnets not working. Checked fuse f7 in backbox and 4amp is blown. Installed circuit breaker and trips after hearing the hammer magnet make noise. If I disconnect hammer magnet connection from the magnet board under playfield fuse does not blow. I have the revised magnet board that helped with dropping the hammer at the right times. I'm thinking the board is bad. Any thoughts?

#6984 3 years ago

Thanks for the help. I found it . F7 is blown. Keeps tripping circuit breaker if hammer magnet is connected to playfield magnet board.

#6985 3 years ago
Quoted from stevevt:

The fuse is in the backbox, along with a very handy chart that shows what's what.

Thanks for the help.I appreciate it . Above post was for you.

#6986 3 years ago

So I had a 3 amp circuit breaker hooked up and it did not pop with hammer magnet to magnet board disconnected. I smelled something burning and look at these pics.

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#6987 3 years ago

When there is three hits left before starting multiball on Sparky, all the lights on my playfield will slightly dim. After Spakey is complete and the multiballs are launched all the lights on the playfield return to their normal strength. This is something that just started happening...Anyone know why?

#6988 3 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

So I had a 3 amp circuit breaker hooked up and it did not pop with hammer magnet to magnet board disconnected. I smelled something burning and look at these pics.

I'm guessing the transistor is shorted on the board. You had the magnet disconnected from the circuit, so current draw was not high enough to blow the fuse. The circuit on the magnet board is not designed to be "on" for long periods, so it heated up until something opened it. I bet if you replaced the transistor (and the charred resistor), it will work again.

#6989 3 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

I'm guessing the transistor is shorted on the board. You had the magnet disconnected from the circuit, so current draw was not high enough to blow the fuse. The circuit on the magnet board is not designed to be "on" for long periods, so it heated up until something opened it. I bet if you replaced the transistor (and the charred resistor), it will work again.

Thanks for your help !!!! I don't know if I have the ability to fix the board but I guess I have nothing to lose. I don't know how these Sterns hold up on routes. I have three HUO and constantly having issues. Just replaced an ac/dc drop target opto board.

#6990 3 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Thanks for your help !!!! I don't know if I have the ability to fix the board but I guess I have nothing to lose. I don't know how these stens hold up on routes. I have three HUO and constantly having issues. Just replaced an ac/dc drop target opto board.

Call Stern and explain what happened - if it's a relatively new game, they should send you a new board free of charge. If not, I think a new board is about $60-$70. Don't throw the old one away - it can be repaired.

#6991 3 years ago

Ive had the game for a couple of years and stern did send my distributor the improved board free .it helped with the hammer fall issue. I had to send in my old one. I'm way out of warranty . Chaz is a good guy but I doubt he could help. Marco has them for $70.00. I'll report if it fixes my problem. It would be horrible to not have Pinside. Always nice to get some help. I try to help out other guys also when I can. I think it's important to post solutions to help the next guy who is trying to figure out why his game isn't working. Some guys don't. Thanks again.

#6992 3 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Thanks for your help !!!! I don't know if I have the ability to fix the board but I guess I have nothing to lose. I don't know how these Sterns hold up on routes. I have three HUO and constantly having issues. Just replaced an ac/dc drop target opto board.

I've blown F7 about 3 times in 2 years. I'm going to check out the board, please keep us updated.

#6993 3 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

I've blown F7 about 3 times in 2 years. I'm going to check out the board, please keep us updated.

Same here, about 3 or maybe 4 times in just under 2 years.

#6994 3 years ago
Quoted from EricR:

Quoted from Roostking:I've blown F7 about 3 times in 2 years. I'm going to check out the board, please keep us updated.
Same here, about 3 or maybe 4 times in just under 2 years.

Likewise

#6995 3 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

I've blown F7 about 3 times in 2 years. I'm going to check out the board, please keep us updated.

Does anyone know if this is a problem in both the pros and the premiums and/or if it has been corrected in the units being shipped now? I am considering a NIB MET (also considering GB, ST, and SM VE once I can play them all and would appreciate any thoughts) and just want to know what I may be in for. Thanks.

#6996 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Does anyone know if this is a problem in both the pros and the premiums and/or if it has been corrected in the units being shipped now? I am considering a NIB MET (also considering GB, ST, and SM VE once I can play them all and would appreciate any thoughts) and just want to know what I may be in for. Thanks.

I have a nib met pro from April 2014 and have never had one issue

#6997 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Does anyone know if this is a problem in both the pros and the premiums and/or if it has been corrected in the units being shipped now? I am considering a NIB MET (also considering GB, ST, and SM VE once I can play them all and would appreciate any thoughts) and just want to know what I may be in for. Thanks.

I wondered the same thing and looked at guys collections to see everyone reporting the issue has an LE or Premium. I've had an LED Pro for about a year and a half and have never had an issue.

#6998 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Does anyone know if this is a problem in both the pros and the premiums and/or if it has been corrected in the units being shipped now? I am considering a NIB MET (also considering GB, ST, and SM VE once I can play them all and would appreciate any thoughts) and just want to know what I may be in for. Thanks.

METLE owner for a couple years now. No issues at all with fuses. Previous owner did get the magnet board replaced under warranty before I bought it. Granted, I probably don't play my MET as much as some of the others on this thread. Mine probably gets 20 plays a month on it during a good month now. Just not a lot of time for pinball at night now that we have a newborn.

****knocking on some wood right now****

#6999 3 years ago

Does anyone sell the metal Premium or LE apron for this game? Was hoping to try to retrofit one in my Pro but haven't been able to find anyone that carries it....

#7000 3 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Does anyone sell the metal Premium or LE apron for this game? Was hoping to try to retrofit one in my Pro but haven't been able to find anyone that carries it....

Did you ask your distributor? They've been able to get me all sorts of parts from stern

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