(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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There are 17191 posts in this topic. You are on page 134 of 344.
#6651 3 years ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

People have mentioned several times about Mylar in the shooter lane. Is there a specific one or is it just a sheet cut to size? Link for the correct product would be appreciated. Thanks.

I'm not aware of pre-cut shooter lane mylar, but it's easy to do. However, I would recommend going a different way: Hard As Nails.

Stern puts just enough clear coat on the playfield to cover the smooth veneer playfield surface, but it's not enough for the shooter lane which is created by digging into the rougher layers of the playfield. Hard As Nails smooths out a shooter lane to eliminate rough areas that accumulate dirt and grime, making it easier to keep clean and looks factory original... actually better. Mylar is guaranteed to dull over time.

#6652 3 years ago

if anyones interested..here is a video of our PInGraffix machine we will be displaying at Allentown..its has so many goodies that we ran out of places to plug into.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-creeping-death-mod

If you look closely you may even notice something else....

#6653 3 years ago
Quoted from joeraptor2003:

if anyones interested..here is a video of our PInGraffix machine we will be displaying at Allentown..its has so many goodies that we ran out of places to plug into.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-creeping-death-mod
If you look closely you may even notice something else....

Love the lighted crosses on the apron.

#6654 3 years ago

So I brought home my Metallica today and I'm super excited! Only issue is a non registering right sling. Anyone know what I should check? Wiring looks ok. Thanks!

#6655 3 years ago

Not to insult anyone, but this would be an excellent time for owners to consult their operators manual. Specifically, the design assembly and parts listing for the snake assembly (pro/premium/LE) The notations of parts, sizes of screws, head types, etc are listed, and may in the future prevent more broken and bent switches as well as an understanding of construction and operation. Cross referencing may be required if an owner is not familiar with some of the industry parts.

This same problem keeps recurring but is normal based on heavy use of the snake leaf switch that require periodic adjustments.

#6656 3 years ago
Quoted from joeraptor2003:

.its has so many goodies that we ran out of places to plug into.

What chu talkin bout wilson.....I have more then that on my Pro.

#6657 3 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

So I brought home my Metallica today and I'm super excited! Only issue is a non registering right sling. Anyone know what I should check? Wiring looks ok. Thanks!
» YouTube video

False alarm guys. Diode leg popped off the right sling switch even though initial inspection it looked fine! Just have to solder it back on.

#6658 3 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

False alarm guys. Diode leg popped off the right sling switch even though initial inspection it looked fine! Just have to solder it back on.

Nice easy fix....gotta love-um.

#6659 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Not to insult anyone, but this would be an excellent time for owners to consult their operators manual.

...but then you would have to disturb the goodie bag stapled in the cabinet. Everyone knows if the goodie bag is touched, it drops the pins value in half.

#6660 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

What chu talkin bout wilson.....I have more then that on my Pro.

Show us what ya got.

#6661 3 years ago

Willis is pissed that you screwed up his name

#6662 3 years ago
Quoted from Baiter:

I'm not aware of pre-cut shooter lane mylar, but it's easy to do. However, I would recommend going a different way: Hard As Nails.
Stern puts just enough clear coat on the playfield to cover the smooth veneer playfield surface, but it's not enough for the shooter lane which is created by digging into the rougher layers of the playfield. Hard As Nails smooths out a shooter lane to eliminate rough areas that accumulate dirt and grime, making it easier to keep clean and looks factory original... actually better. Mylar is guaranteed to dull over time.

So just apply a coat or two with a small brush in the shooter lane? How long to dry before use? Never heard of this method before.

#6663 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

...but then you would have to disturb the goodie bag stapled in the cabinet. Everyone knows if the goodie bag is touched, it drops the pins value in half.

In complete understanding of the humor and bit of truth at the same time of this statement, the modern internet now exists.
This is not the early 1990s.
If an owner is concerned over losing value of their "investment", download the manual from Stern or IPDB.
A printer and a three ring binder works well in tandem, and is easier for maintenance reference function anyway.
It does not even have to be a "daisy wheel" print style...

#6664 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

...but then you would have to disturb the goodie bag stapled in the cabinet. Everyone knows if the goodie bag is touched, it drops the pins value in half.

o shit was i supposed to leave that stapled?

#6665 3 years ago

They used to have parts of the manuals on Stern's website like the "pink pages" or "Blue pages". Last time I looked I could not find them. Are they still available on Stern's site?

#6666 3 years ago
Quoted from Colehvac1:

Show us what ya got.

25-27 of them, not including the Refinery ones. 6 or 7 I made myself.

#6667 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Willis is pissed that you screwed up his name

Oups....been a while since I saw the show.

-1
#6668 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

...but then you would have to disturb the goodie bag stapled in the cabinet. Everyone knows if the goodie bag is touched, it drops the pins value in half.

The goodie bag that doesn't even include a manual anymore....

#6669 3 years ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

So just apply a coat or two with a small brush in the shooter lane? How long to dry before use? Never heard of this method before.

It takes about a half dozen coats or so to get a shooter lane smooth. Drying time between coats is maybe 10 minutes. It works best on a new/clean game in both the shooter lane and on the edges of the scoop to provide some resistance to dirt and wear. On older games where the dirt is already ground in, it's a tougher call, a brave soul might sand the dirt out of the shooter lane first, but after exposing that much wood, I'm not sure how smooth one can make the end result with the tiny brush

As with anything in pinball there is debate on the topic, but this technique has been floating around Pinside for years, usually with good results. I've done this on a few games, and after a few years the shooter and scoop still look new (HUO, so take that with a grain of salt).

Standard debate thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hard-as-nails-1

#6670 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

They used to have parts of the manuals on Stern's website like the "pink pages" or "Blue pages". Last time I looked I could not find them. Are they still available on Stern's site?

All current games released are retained in the website.

http://www.sternpinball.com/games/metallica/premium
"Specs and Manuals"

Old games can be found on other pinball websites through archives.

All PDF format.

#6671 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The goodie bag that doesn't even include a manual anymore....

Well, add the manual to the premiun side of the pro vs. Premium debate....mine has a manual in there

#6672 3 years ago

Referring back to a question about max playfield multipliers - the common consensus seemed to be 4x.

However, would it not be possible to get a 8x?
2x from Piston Target, 2x from Coffin MB snake lock & 2x from whatever MB snake lock you brought in after Coffin?

Theoretically it may be possible, but achieving it less so.

#6673 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Well, add the manual to the premiun side of the pro vs. Premium debate....mine has a manual in there

You sure.. the full thing? Not the 20-30 page printout...

#6674 3 years ago

Can someone educate me about the issue with opening the coin door with the power on causing sparky to lock on? Or something like this.
Is this an issue with all current and past machines? Or is there a particular lot of machines that this is a concern?

#6675 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Can someone educate me about the issue with opening the coin door with the power on causing sparky to lock on? Or something like this.
Is this an issue with all current and past machines? Or is there a particular lot of machines that this is a concern?

I believe it was addressed in the latest run

#6676 3 years ago

What about the machines with the old style wood back box?

#6677 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Can someone educate me about the issue with opening the coin door with the power on causing sparky to lock on? Or something like this.

I have a MET Pro from the first run, and I've never seen this.

#6678 3 years ago

Is there a way to check without blowing up Sparky?

#6680 3 years ago

Happened to me for the first time in ownership (2+ years now). Thank goodness I heard the "click" and turned the game off immediately because of that thread.

#6681 3 years ago

So what is the big secret in the manual about the snake switch? Can someone enlighten me? Adjustment? Size of bolts to remove it? The snake switch has been an issue for years and the only answer has been to bend the arm and straighten it out. Is there really a better way hidden in the manual nobody has or reads?

#6682 3 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

So what is the big secret in the manual about the snake switch? Can someone enlighten me? Adjustment? Size of bolts to remove it? The snake switch has been an issue for years and the only answer has been to bend the arm and straighten it out. Is there really a better way hidden in the manual nobody has or reads?

Use the proper tools, and take your time.

I mentioned this in a post in this thread a while back with PHOTOS of the tools.
Poor adjustment leads to premature failure, a broken switch, or reduced lifecycle.
People should not be using their fingers, needle nose pliers, screwdrivers for example, but they do it anyway.

The requirements of adjustment vary on the amount of what is required.
Microswitch angle adjustment?
Leaf switch adjustment?
Contact momentary issues?
Screw mount tightening?
Maybe a few issues, maybe all.

No one can tell someone the "magic bullet" because the owner has to inspect the individual machine.
Practice and inspection will give the optimal results.
Sometimes switches are loose right from the factory, which leads to my principle of "inspect your machine before playing it the first time", which collectors seem to find unnecessary on this forum.

Sometimes you get a "crib death" switch that just needs to be replaced out of box because it is directly intermittent and was not caught during QC.
Use a proper Cherry production switch, if you can.
Sometimes you can even salvage the leaf factory contact or wireform for reuse that makes the process even easier.

#6683 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Can someone educate me about the issue with opening the coin door with the power on causing sparky to lock on? Or something like this.
Is this an issue with all current and past machines? Or is there a particular lot of machines that this is a concern?

So let's say I'm playing the game and decide I want to turn the volume up, which i always do. Open the coin door , with the power on . Is this a concern, I mean how do you adjust the volume or go through the game settings and menu if this is a potential problem? Can't do any of that withot the power on and the coin door open. Right ?

#6684 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

So let's say I'm playing the game and decide I want to turn the volume up, which i always do. Open the coin door , with the power on . Is this a concern, I mean how do you adjust the volume or go through the game settings and menu if this is a potential problem? Can't do any of that withot the power on and the coin door open. Right ?

Just don't turn the game OFF with the coin door open.
Ultimately, this depends on when your game was manufactured and if the step up board and harness for Sparky is upgraded.
Adjust the volume all you want.

Alternatively, install a SAM remote control board and wireless remote.
You never need to open the coin door at all.
The utility is worth the $50.

#6685 3 years ago

I'm considering buying a Met pro, manufactured early to mid 2014 old style back box. Does this fall into the questionable time frame, although it is refinery edition. I'm just concerned before I make a deal.

#6686 3 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

The snake switch has been an issue for years and the only answer has been to bend the arm and straighten it out. Is there really a better way hidden in the manual nobody has or reads?

I'm sure it's not the 'only' answer depending on what exactly the issue is, but bending/gapping switches has been a mandatory pinball maintenance skill since day 1. The switch being in a snake/scoop mechanism is largely irrelevant, but what you might gain from the manual is confidence in exactly how some of that mech comes apart to get better access to the switch - however the actual fix itself isn't going to be spelled out without some interpretation and troubleshooting.

#6687 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

You sure.. the full thing? Not the 20-30 page printout...

IMG_20160411_184346602_(resized).jpg

#6688 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

IMG_20160411_184346602_(resized).jpg

My Pro from 2013 had nothing like that. Just some Xeroxed black and white pages.. And the pdf I have found online didn't look like a complete book either.

#6689 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

So let's say I'm playing the game and decide I want to turn the volume up, which i always do. Open the coin door , with the power on . Is this a concern, I mean how do you adjust the volume or go through the game settings and menu if this is a potential problem? Can't do any of that withot the power on and the coin door open. Right ?

Get this to take the place of the tournament button - only $30.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2894

#6691 3 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

My Pro from 2013 had nothing like that. Just some Xeroxed black and white pages.. And the pdf I have found online didn't look like a complete book either.

That is why you buy a later run, after the game has been established.
First runs can get a little odd sometimes, but you SHOULD have had this exact manual (in a plastic bag taped to the playfield glass when NIB), not some 30-page xerox bull$#@!.
If you received your "second owner", that would answer the equation.
I hope Stern has not pulled another "fast one" with manuals being an "upgrade" with Premium and LE models, but if they have, that sends crinkles on my brow.

#6692 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

» YouTube video

You did it again my friend, that is over the top cool. How much would that set me back?

#6693 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You did it again my friend, that is over the top cool. How much would that set me back?

Just have to get the lower casing quoted. Only a 3D printed proto at the moment. And will be two variants. Left one is plug and play driving its own lights. Right one has lights being driven by Total Lightshow. A pair will be driven by a shared servo driver.

#6694 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

Just have to get the casing quoted. Only a 3D printed proto at the moment.

That's what I thought. Will they run without your big boards? To bad the bulbs don't generate a beam like real Veri lights. I wonder how Comets 1 watt 6.3v bulbs would look?

#6695 3 years ago

I don't have Total Lightshow so would 2 work on their own? I think I would be interested in a pair then.

#6696 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I don't have Total Lightshow so would 2 work on their own? I think I would be interested in a pair then.

Yes, a pair will work without the big board. I have to step the brightness up a bit though. The output is only 4.7v. It needs to be 6.

#6697 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

To bad the bulbs don't generate a beam like real Veri lights

If only we could get fog in there..and lasers.

#6698 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

If only we could get fog in there..and lasers.

O it can be done

#6699 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

That is why you buy a later run, after the game has been established.
First runs can get a little odd sometimes, but you SHOULD have had this exact manual (in a plastic bag taped to the playfield glass when NIB), not some 30-page xerox bull$#@!.
If you received your "second owner", that would answer the equation.
I hope Stern has not pulled another "fast one" with manuals being an "upgrade" with Premium and LE models, but if they have, that sends crinkles on my brow.

Manuals for the Pro models are always a lot smaller then the Premium/LE Manuals.

#6700 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

That is why you buy a later run, after the game has been established.
First runs can get a little odd sometimes, but you SHOULD have had this exact manual (in a plastic bag taped to the playfield glass when NIB), not some 30-page xerox bull$#@!.
If you received your "second owner", that would answer the equation.
I hope Stern has not pulled another "fast one" with manuals being an "upgrade" with Premium and LE models, but if they have, that sends crinkles on my brow.

Mine was NIB in 8/2013. It was my first pin and i didnt know what to expect. But since then ive picked up a TFLE and a TSPP and both have full manuals.

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