(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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#6451 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Good detail and shading on the Sparky skin textures.
It did not have the patience to spend any more time on my spare, after too many hours.
Just wanted to "seal it up" and finish the entire machine project after 4+ months.

Yeah it really looks awesome in person. I wish I could take credit for the painting but I did not paint this one. It was painted by Dirty Donny.

#6452 3 years ago

I'm looking at swapping out the square block on my monsters for the captive ball. For those that have done this, is it a two piece assembly that is needed (Newton ball, guard piece)? Where did people have success in sourcing the parts; Pbl, Marco, etc...
Just trying to make sure I get all the stuff at one time and not on three separate orders!
Thanks.

#6453 3 years ago
Quoted from BlueIrocGuy:

I'm looking at swapping out the square block on my monsters for the captive ball. For those that have done this, is it a two piece assembly that is needed (Newton ball, guard piece)? Where did people have success in sourcing the parts; Pbl, Marco, etc...
Just trying to make sure I get all the stuff at one time and not on three separate orders!
Thanks.

One piece.

#6454 3 years ago

One assembly. Pretty sure I got mine from pinballlife.

#6455 3 years ago

anyone ever have a problem with the sparky magnet ? mine just hold the ball steady, then drops SDM every time . I do remember it wiggling the ball side to side before .

#6456 3 years ago
Quoted from BlueIrocGuy:

I'm looking at swapping out the square block on my monsters for the captive ball. For those that have done this, is it a two piece assembly that is needed (Newton ball, guard piece)? Where did people have success in sourcing the parts; Pbl, Marco, etc...
Just trying to make sure I get all the stuff at one time and not on three separate orders!
Thanks.

Pinball life has them. It is an easy swap, and IMO a great improvement.

#6457 3 years ago
Quoted from freezie:

anyone ever have a problem with the sparky magnet ? mine just hold the ball steady, then drops SDM every time . I do remember it wiggling the ball side to side before .

Did ya mess with the settings? I can't remember what it's called, but there is a setting for the amount of magnet ball influence.

#6458 3 years ago

i haven't yzfguy , but thanks . i will have a look for it .

#6459 3 years ago

My airball deflector took one for the team. ..

20160324_201228_(resized).jpg

#6460 3 years ago

LOL@ took one for the team...great way of looking at it!

#6461 3 years ago

Hey I'm getting ready to join the club. My machine was actually delivered to Pinball Refinery today and will be getting their treatment. Obviously I'm beyond excited. But, one thing I can't find is a cup holder that looks purple powder coated. It's not the normal plastic kind. I saw a picture recently on here but can't remember where. Please let me know if you know where to get this.

#6462 3 years ago

Installed the stock deflector and played one game. No more. Can't do it.

#6463 3 years ago

Wow! I like a team attitude!!

Completely forgot to add sparky protector to list. Looks very necessary!
I did splurge for the Color DMD which probably isn't as necessary though and it arrived today!

#6464 3 years ago

Where did you pick up that extend Sparky airball deflector?

#6465 3 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Where did you pick up that extend Sparky airball deflector?

Pinbits has them for $6.00 as a stand-alone protector.

#6466 3 years ago

Was just ordering some stuff from Pinball Life while watching my pseudo-Alma Mater, the Mighty Oregon Ducks, beat Krezchuweevaskevskey's (not even going to attempt to spell it) Duke Blue Devils to advance to the Elite Eight.

Anyway, for you MET Premium/LE owners, Pinball Life has a new item out, the "Stern Newton Ball Assembly", which I think is the same assembly used in the MET Pro and other pins.

Price: $12.95
Product ID : 535-9522-00_535-9523-00

It replaces the Newton cube under the hammer for MET Premium's/LE's.

I had already replaced my MET Premium Newton cube with the previous stand-alone Newton ball (sans "assembly", 1 mounting bolt), but I think the assembly will work better as it has 3 playfield mounting points (bolts).

Considering the physics involved, the force of a high-speed pinball hitting the Newton ball assembly will be absorbed much better and result in less stress for an assembly with 3 mounting points.

Was kind of concerned when I first installed the 1-bolt Newton ball, as over time and many hundreds of hits it might start to loosen/move and chew into the playfield wood to create a larger hole.

(Sir Isaac is my hero).

#6467 3 years ago

Installed hookedonpinball spinners. Was a little nervous about cutting the plastics but that came out alright allthough not perfect if you look very close

In combo with the external subwoofer, who needs a shaker ?

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#6468 3 years ago
Quoted from bkfiv:

Hey I'm getting ready to join the club. My machine was actually delivered to Pinball Refinery today and will be getting their treatment. Obviously I'm beyond excited. But, one thing I can't find is a cup holder that looks purple powder coated. It's not the normal plastic kind. I saw a picture recently on here but can't remember where. Please let me know if you know where to get this.

Pro or Premium? I have one on order with PR too, but have no idea of the current status. (I know - I need to contact Steve)

As far as the beverage holder goes, Pinball Life has the PinGulp in various colored metallic versions, but no purple. I'm considering just painting and clear coating a standard black version. Should be simple enough.

#6469 3 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Pro or Premium? I have one on order with PR too, but have no idea of the current status. (I know - I need to contact Steve)
As far as the beverage holder goes, Pinball Life has the PinGulp in various colored metallic versions, but no purple. I'm considering just painting and clear coating a standard black version. Should be simple enough.

Pro...he said he expected to receive 2 yesterday. Lmk if you're the other
And as for the cup holder, maybe that would work but I don't want MY shoddy craftsmanship to compromise PR's outstanding work. We'll see.

#6470 3 years ago

I need to replace a tombstone drop target sticker - but drop targets activate, even with power off, making it impossible. Assuming there's a "disable drop target" in the menu system?

#6471 3 years ago
Quoted from bkfiv:

Pro...he said he expected to receive 2 yesterday. Lmk if you're the other
And as for the cup holder, maybe that would work but I don't want MY shoddy craftsmanship to compromise PR's outstanding work. We'll see.

Just get some Krylon chrome plastic paint and go for it. Look tons better then just plain black plastic.

#6472 3 years ago
Quoted from bkfiv:

Pro...he said he expected to receive 2 yesterday. Lmk if you're the other
And as for the cup holder, maybe that would work but I don't want MY shoddy craftsmanship to compromise PR's outstanding work. We'll see.

No - I've got a Monsters Premium coming.

I'll probably end up painting a PinGulp chrome rather than purple; it will fit in better with the various chrome extras that will be on my game's exterior. As MustangPaul pointed out, there are some pretty good products readily available for this as well.

#6473 3 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

I need to replace a tombstone drop target sticker - but drop targets activate, even with power off, making it impossible. Assuming there's a "disable drop target" in the menu system?

For assistance and solution:

Assuming you are referring to the first drop target, use a small screwdriver to wedge the target up behind it and keep the target from falling. Peel off the old decal, clean the old residue with goo gone and q-tips, final clean with alcohol, and attach new decal. The others are same you just have to remove the playfield plastic.

However, if you wish to extend the life of your decal and completely eliminate the problem in the future, attach a slightly oversized piece of thin Mylar vertically which extends below the target decal. This will prevent it from chipping or peeling.

While you are performing maintenance ensure the target top is flush with the playfield surface or you not just get target wear but PF wear as well. Adjustment screw is on the target assembly below the PF.

You do not need to remove the target from the machine or even lift the playfield for decal replacement, just turn the power off to your machine.

Disabling drop targets will not prevent manual activation. Use a solder assist tool with hook to pull the target into position before wedging, if is already down or reset with solenoid test.

#6474 3 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

No - I've got a Monsters Premium coming.
I'll probably end up painting a PinGulp chrome rather than purple; it will fit in better with the various chrome extras that will be on my game's exterior. As MustangPaul pointed out, there are some pretty good products readily available for this as well.

Collapsible works very well.

20160325_093804_(resized).jpg

#6475 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

For assistance and solution:
Assuming you are referring to the first drop target, use a small screwdriver to wedge the target up behind it and keep the target from falling. Peel off the old decal, clean the old residue with goo gone and q-tips, final clean with alcohol, and attach new decal. The others are same you just have to remove the playfield plastic.
However, if you wish to extend the life of your decal and completely eliminate the problem in the future, attach a slightly oversized piece of thin Mylar vertically which extends below the target decal. This will prevent it from chipping or peeling.
While you are performing maintenance ensure the target top is flush with the playfield surface or you not just get target wear but PF wear as well. Adjustment screw is on the target assembly below the PF.
You do not need to remove the target from the machine or even lift the playfield for decal replacement, just turn the power off to your machine.
Disabling drop targets will not prevent manual activation. Use a solder assist tool with hook to pull the target into position before wedging, if is already down or reset with solenoid test.

Speaking of drop targets, I currently have 1 target, the first target, that is broke. I contacted Stern and they sent me new targets, but it seems the procedure to replace it is somewhat daunting. As a total noob with no tools, would I be better served contacting a pro to replace? I do have some mechanical aptitude, but....

#6476 3 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Speaking of drop targets, I currently have 1 target, the first target, that is broke. I contacted Stern and they sent me new targets, but it seems the procedure to replace it is somewhat daunting. As a total noob with no tools, would I be better served contacting a pro to replace? I do have some mechanical aptitude, but....

The drops on met are a bit of a pain as they are all in line on the same armature and mech. Its easy to do, but takes patience as you have to remove e clips and washers while remembering the order they came out in.

Take pictures and you should be OK. Good learning time

#6477 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Collapsible works very well.

20160325_093804_(resized).jpg

I have them on all my games.

#6478 3 years ago

I realized I was still on version 1.63, which I installed in Jan 2015. I decided to check the audits and...lol:

image_(resized).jpg

#6479 3 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Speaking of drop targets, I currently have 1 target, the first target, that is broke. I contacted Stern and they sent me new targets, but it seems the procedure to replace it is somewhat daunting. As a total noob with no tools, would I be better served contacting a pro to replace? I do have some mechanical aptitude, but....

A good small set of bent needle nose pliers to remove e-clips and patience. Be careful around the microswitches and do not bend them out of position. Use a set of foreceps as as a safety to avoid losing e-clips by them flying away after tension release.

You should not need to drop the assembly out of the game playfield, as the target assembly is fairly accessible from the full upright maintenance position on the left cabinet side of the game.

Stern got the placement right for servicing on this game.

If you wish to reduce potential of future broken drop targets use the Stern upgraded reinforced target design, and Loctite professional epoxy glue a piece of thin shim of aluminum stripping on the backside of the target, being mindful of its length and position to avoid interfering with target operation. It will not break again for a long time. This type of sheet metal is commonly used for ramp protectors, and can be purchased in 6x18 inch sheets at Home Depot for $7/sheet.

#6480 3 years ago

Please do yourself a huge favor and remove the target mech from the machine and work on it on a bench. It so simple to remove. Four screws and two connectors. The work is tedious and having it on a bench is the only way I would even think of working on it.

#6481 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Please do yourself a huge favor and remove the target mech from the machine and work on it on a bench. It so simple to remove. Four screws and two connectors. The work is tedious and having it on a bench is the only way I would even think of working on it.

Yup and if you use a big magnetic tray to put it in while you work on it there's a lot less chance of loosing small metal parts. Or just use a small one to put the metal parts in.

#6482 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Please do yourself a huge favor and remove the target mech from the machine and work on it on a bench. It so simple to remove. Four screws and two connectors. The work is tedious and having it on a bench is the only way I would even think of working on it.

Definite 2nd...

From experience

#6483 3 years ago

Cool, thanks for the replies guys. I will pick up the took mentioned, and I will also pull the mech out to work on it.

#6484 3 years ago

Quick q and certainly NOT to bring any bs here but just curious if you been following that inserts lifting thread which I thought would drain by now. I'm suspicious until pics but this cat says his NIB has chipped mag on a game less than a month old? Weird. Will protect the s out of mine when it arrives but got my attention. Many of you had game since release - any playfield issues like that?

#6485 3 years ago

There was issues with a bad batch of playfields from late 2014 and early 2015 of the paint flaking off, Stern has address this and swapped PF with those who were affected. Lifting inserts issues can happen to any game at anytime but due to many factors, environment, cleaning, maintained etc. However it's not nearly wide spread as that shit stirrer says in the other thread. In fact I don't recall anyone else complaining of lifting inserts unless of course the machine might have been routed left on for hours and still used standard bulbs which throw off a major amount of heat and can possibly cause the insert to move. In which case if this did happen they can be warmed and pressed back down as well.

Maintain your machine and it will give you years of enjoyment. That other fellow machine in that thread looked like it was swept with a muddy broom and the balls looked like chipped bowling balls used on a NYC pothole street. Those pictures clearly showed a different story then what he was singing.

#6486 3 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

Quick q and certainly NOT to bring any bs here but just curious if you been following that inserts lifting thread which I thought would drain by now. I'm suspicious until pics but this cat says his NIB has chipped mag on a game less than a month old? Weird. Will protect the s out of mine when it arrives but got my attention. Many of you had game since release - any playfield issues like that?

The magnet core is soft metal. He saw some dents and was worried, honest newbie mistake. I've got one of the first MET off the line (2013) and have had no playfield wear problems whatsoever. A few others have had issues, which were resolved by Stern. The guy who started that thread is the only case I know of where someone had a MET playfield problem that wasn't resolved to their satisfaction.

#6487 3 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

...unless of course the machine might have been routed left on for hours and still used standard bulbs which throw off a major amount of heat and can possibly cause the insert to move. In which case if this did happen they can be warmed and pressed back down as well.

When a game is in attract mode, the insert lamps are more off than on. I really haven't seen a problem with incandescents in the inserts in any of my older games. However I've been gradually converting them over to LED as I find time, just because I like the way they look in most cases. I'm doing LOTR tomorrow, and even after 12 years of standard bulbs the playfield still looks almost new, with no insert problems at all.

#6488 3 years ago

Can someone explain blackened mode
To me ? I got it today and stacker it with seek and destroy and then was looking at the DMD since I had never seen it and drained

#6489 3 years ago

Helping pin friend troubleshoot...Looks like he touched something while swapping some Leds on his MET pro. We found F8 blown and replaced it. Looks like no flashers under pf are working. Any ideas what to check?

#6490 3 years ago

Assuming you checked the fuse (F10 Coil/Flashers 5A SB), on the back box I/O powerboard did you check the drive transistors Q17-Q24 (J7) and Q25-Q32 (J6) to see if any of them are bad? Or see if you are getting power at the pins, J7 pins 1-9, J6 pins 1-8.

#6491 3 years ago

Thx. He prob can't do those tests. I'll have to go over next weekend. But he did replace f8

#6492 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thx. He prob can't do those tests. I'll have to go over next weekend. But he did replace f8

F10 is flashers have him check that one. For all of them to be out, I'd say more fuse then any blown drivers to be honest. It would be really hard to blow all those drivers at once.

F8 is a 3A SB for 50v coils.

#6493 3 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Can someone explain blackened mode
To me ? I got it today and stacker it with seek and destroy and then was looking at the DMD since I had never seen it and drained

When Blackened is running, hit each pick target to collect a band member/blackened jackpot. Once four are collected, one of the shots will be lit for Blackened super jackpot. Repeat. There is a timer running as well, which gets reset when you hit a pick target.

#6494 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

When Blackened is running, hit each pick target to collect a band member/blackened jackpot. Once four are collected, one of the shots will be lit for Blackened super jackpot. Repeat. There is a timer running as well, which gets reset when you hit a pick target.

Cool thanks .. Tough to get that mode !

#6495 3 years ago

Thanks death. F10 replaced. Still no flashers. Could have fried a chip?

#6496 3 years ago

Was it blown? If so did it blow again instantly on power up? Rather then a chip blown, if it blows instantly I think he has something shorted, and being F8 was blown I'd back track my steps where I was under the PF near any coils and see if any flashers are right there as well and inspect for a short.

If nothing found there and no power at the Q's, might have to check that bridge that supplies them. I have to look up which one it is.

Okay it would be Bridge 2 that goes to fuse F10 that feeds J6 & J7 on the powerboard.

#6497 3 years ago

f8 was blown f10 was not
Here is s pic of board after he caused issue.

No fuses blow when gsme is on.

image_(resized).jpeg

#6498 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Helping pin friend troubleshoot...Looks like he touched something while swapping some Leds on his MET pro. We found F8 blown and replaced it. Looks like no flashers under pf are working. Any ideas what to check?

Might want to check over the areas of the machine first he was working on, to ensure the potential playfield area is resolved of shorts before digging in testing/replacing fuses and electronics such as broken wires, wires touching assemblies, or even other lighting.
The problem can go in circles.

Simply things first, electronics second.

Hopefully, he did not have the machine on when he was doing the work, but I suspect that is when the short circuit occurred.

#6499 3 years ago

f8 looks off to me? What's f8 control ?

#6500 3 years ago

Yeah f8 def blew. He replaced it

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