(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica Club - Ride the Lightning!

By swampfire

10 years ago


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#6251 8 years ago

In other news, this is visually my favorite mode in pinball: Enter Fade To Black, complete it, then keep hitting shots where only a few inserts are lit.

Happened this am. I forgot how good it is.

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#6252 8 years ago

dupe

#6253 8 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

This is the opposite of what is true on my game. With the metal post installed, he ball comes up the left orbit, stalls and then falls down into the pops.

I've gotta be majorly confused here, and will have to pay attention next time I play. I looked at my machine before I wrote my comments, and the post is an inch or so to the left of the rollovers. I don't see how it can hit that then drop into the pops. It can only do it from the right.

#6254 8 years ago

I believe the post drops to allow the ball into the pops after it is stopped.

#6255 8 years ago
Quoted from TOK:

I've gotta be majorly confused here, and will have to pay attention next time I play. I looked at my machine before I wrote my comments, and the post is an inch or so to the left of the rollovers. I don't see how it can hit that then drop into the pops. It can only do it from the right.

The post "stops" the ball, and then gravity brings it to the pops. The problem is that the ball bounces too far off the plastic post, and gravity carries it to the left.

Again, I'm not sure that's a problem if it's awarding the left orbit inserts toward CIU a second time.

#6256 8 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

The post "stops" the ball, and then gravity brings it to the pops. The problem is that the ball bounces too far off the plastic post, and gravity carries it to the left.
Again, I'm not sure that's a problem if it's awarding the left orbit inserts toward CIU a second time.

As many have said that's why you replace the factory plastic post with a metal one. Did this in my old LE and never had bounce back issues afterwards.

#6257 8 years ago
Quoted from smassa:

As many have said that's why you replace the factory plastic post with a metal one. Did this in my old LE and never had bounce back issues afterwards.

But what I'm saying is, it's better to have it reject to the left orbit instead of the pops, but only if it awards the lit inserts toward CIU a second time. No one has confirmed this in recent posts, and I'm not at home right now to check. Why replace it if rejects are better?

#6258 8 years ago

I

Quoted from Sparky:Why replace it if rejects are better?

longevity? both myself and my friend have had to replace the plastic to metal post (18$ part), and I'm sure it will fail again.
next time i'll get the full metal post.

#6259 8 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

But what I'm saying is, it's better to have it reject to the left orbit instead of the pops, but only if it awards the lit inserts toward CIU a second time. No one has confirmed this in recent posts, and I'm not at home right now to check. Why replace it if rejects are better?

There is a time lockout on rejects paying the second hit. you can get a second pay if the reject is as slow as physics will allow. The exact time is somewhere between 2-3 seconds.

#6260 8 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

There is a time lockout on rejects paying the second hit. you can get a second pay if the reject is as slow as physics will allow. The exact time is somewhere between 2-3 seconds.

That's what I needed to know. Since it came up again recently, I was going to take the glass off tonight and test if there was a time lockout. If there's no benefit to the reject, then the pop lane/pops would be better.

#6261 8 years ago
Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

Also, as a sad side note, I will potentially no longer be part of the Metallica club in a few hours.
EDIT:
aaaaand Metalica is gone

This is more a like, unlike!! Thanks for Your rules clarification- What's next?

#6262 8 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

In other news, this is visually my favorite mode in pinball: Enter Fade To Black, complete it, then keep hitting shots where only a few inserts are lit.
Happened this am. I forgot how good it is.

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Me too. I never select fade to black in the daytime.

#6263 8 years ago
Quoted from TOK:

I've gotta be majorly confused here, and will have to pay attention next time I play. I looked at my machine before I wrote my comments, and the post is an inch or so to the left of the rollovers. I don't see how it can hit that then drop into the pops. It can only do it from the right.

Me too. I've tried to get clarification, but I don't see how the ball can get to the bumpers from the left orbit with the post up.

#6264 8 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Me too. I've tried to get clarification, but I don't see how the ball can get to the bumpers from the left orbit with the post up.

The post pops up just long enough to stop the balls path. Then it drops right back down. Theoretically leaving the ball to follow the shape of the lane back there and slowly roll to thr right and into the pops.

Problem is that the ball bounces of the post far enough that it goes back down the left side.

#6265 8 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Me too. I've tried to get clarification, but I don't see how the ball can get to the bumpers from the left orbit with the post up.

The post is on a timer linked to the orbit switch. The post is up long enough to stop the ball, then drops, allowing gravity to take over and pull the ball down the remaining part of the orbit and into the pops. Works like this on dozens of different machines.

#6266 8 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

The post is on a timer linked to the orbit switch. The post is up long enough to stop the ball, then drops, allowing gravity to take over and pull the ball down the remaining part of the orbit and into the pops. Works like this on dozens of different machines.

This is getting humorous! Every other post is someone else explaining it!

BTW...I just picked ES for the first CIU, and the post is disabled just like FWTBT.

#6267 8 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

But what I'm saying is, it's better to have it reject to the left orbit instead of the pops, but only if it awards the lit inserts toward CIU a second time. No one has confirmed this in recent posts, and I'm not at home right now to check. Why replace it if rejects are better?

You want the ball to fall into the pops when playing fade to black. Probably the easiest CIU to beat and the coolest lighting effects.

#6268 8 years ago

So, I just swapped out my new MET premium coffin bash cube with the Newton ball as per Markmon's thread.

Have to say it plays much better, easy to do, & completely reversible.

Here's what my bash cube looks like after 396 balls have been played. Distinct grooving/dent in very little time.

Can only imagine what it would look like after a few thousand balls played.

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#6269 8 years ago

I kinda like the beat up box look.

#6270 8 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

This is getting humorous! Every other post is someone else explaining it!
BTW...I just picked ES for the first CIU, and the post is disabled just like FWTBT.

Actually this post and then one above are the first posts that explain how it is supposed to work. Since I have a super rejecter post, it goes back down the orbit which it came 95% of the time. Guess I need to invest in the metal post??

#6271 8 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Actually this post and then one above are the first posts that explain how it is supposed to work.

I explained it, too, in post #6255. I was just being a smart-ass.

#6272 8 years ago
Quoted from Roostking:

This is more a like, unlike!! Thanks for Your rules clarification- What's next?

Yeah a thumbs down is fair - I accept it
For now, very anxiously awaiting a new Star Wars machine. If it materializes later this year with some great gameplay and an LCD I will be forced to break the bank for it.

If that doesn't pan out, I'll probably be getting back into older project machines - I've found I like the build/fix part of the hobby moreso than the playing and owning of machines, at least as far as modern expensive machines go. Plus I still have Tron which is plenty for the amount I play these days.

#6273 8 years ago
Quoted from Humph:

Can only imagine what it would look like after a few thousand balls played.

Quoted from pauloz:

kinda like the beat up box look.

Yeah me too! I've never had a problem with the way it plays, I get the bounces off it to the snake and ramp. Mine has never been cranked down tight, it has a bit of give to it and moves some so it deadens the ball when it hits it.

This is what mine looks like, build date 6/26/13 one of the first premiums off the line, and it is still original. My game has been to 7 shows and gets anywhere from 700 to 1200 plays on it per show. Plus league and tourneys here at our house, so I would guesstimate that it has between 9 and 10 thousand plays on it. Probably closer to 10K. The block started looking like that fairly early, but once it got a bunch of plays on it, it really hasn't gotten much worse. I keep waiting for it to get a hole in it or something but it works fine and I see no reason to swap it.

Phoebe

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#6274 8 years ago
Quoted from Butterflygirl24:

Yeah me too! I've never had a problem with the way it plays, I get the bounces off it to the snake and ramp. Mine has never been cranked down tight, it has a bit of give to it and moves some so it deadens the ball when it hits it.
This is what mine looks like, build date 6/26/13 one of the first premiums off the line, and it is still original. My game has been to 7 shows and gets anywhere from 700 to 1200 plays on it per show. Plus league and tourneys here at our house, so I would guesstimate that it has between 9 and 10 thousand plays on it. Probably closer to 10K. The block started looking like that fairly early, but once it got a bunch of plays on it, it really hasn't gotten much worse. I keep waiting for it to get a hole in it or something but it works fine and I see no reason to swap it.
Phoebe

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Thanks for the pics, Phoebe.
The (Sir Isaac) Newton cube doesn't look near as bad as I thought after 10K plays.
Love the hammer paint job.

#6275 8 years ago

So, for all you wiring experts out there.

I just ordered parts to install a knocker assembly (Data East/Sega knocker coil, strike plate, & a Stern 50 VDC step-up board from Pinball Life) in my new MET Premium as I can't stand the Banshee screech when I win a game/special, etc. and I like the 'ol EM knocker sound.

As a purist, I would like to do an entirely non-solder, reversible mod & use the most elegant solution possible.

I'm essentially following a procedure by someone ([email protected]) who described this a while ago.

I want to mount the step-up board and knocker coil on the left side of the backbox and wire directly into the nearby I/O power driver board.

On the power I/O board, I would remove the connector on J10 and dewire pin #10 (one of the five, all-occupied 50 VDC sources needed for the knocker coil) & extend this wire into and past the IDC connector (I think this is possible & there appears to be plenty of slack) so there is enough wire end to insert into a Molex connector. This Molex then mates to another (w/ an inline 3A SB fuse & 18 gauge wire) that goes to the step-up board and coil as per the earthlink website diagram that was shown. Similarly, I'd do this for pin #10 (20 VDC) on connector J7 on the I/O board and connect to the step-up board to provide the Q24 signal that activates the knocker.

All this avoids tap-soldering into a 50 VDC coil lead (left flipper coil I presume) and running wires in the cabinet.
Herg in the 'Stern Real Knocker' thread had tapped into the I/O power board, but used a 10-pin Z connector for J10 to tap into the 50 VDC source, but I think repositioning one wire (pin #10) through and past the connector might be better and easier and then do the same thing for J7 pin#10.

Seems do-able, but am a self-admitted novice, any comments appreciated.

#6276 8 years ago
Quoted from Humph:

So, for all you wiring experts out there.
I just ordered parts to install a knocker assembly (Data East/Sega knocker coil, strike plate, & a Stern 50 VDC step-up board from Pinball Life) in my new MET Premium.
As a purist, I would like to do an entirely non-solder, reversible mod & use the most elegant solution possible.

If you want to be fully reversible, use all MOLEX connectors, including a modified tap on the driver board. Z connectors do the trick.

There really is no such thing as "non-solder" however, you have to at least solder the coil unless you want to installing quick connect crimp connector fully insulated terminals on the coil as well. It is generally a good idea to hit a double wire connection with a small drop of solder anyway before using the MOLEX male or female pins to get a clean connection with the "twist". This includes if you decide to pop the 0.156" MOLEX pins on the I/O board for 20/50V and reinsert into a new connector and ditch the IDC one, instead of doing a partial dual connection with a Z-connector. Some people even solder the molex pins and wires together before inserting into the connector, but that is unnecessary, as the "wings" do their job.

Don't forget to add an in line fuse protector (no more than 3A, no less than 2A, 250v, MDL) coming from the 50v line, prior to going into the coil MOLEX connector and step up board for assembly and board protection against overloads or shorts, as the coil will not be dioded and the diode should be CUT OFF as it is not needed. If you are extremely OCD, you could add another coming out of the coil, but that is unecessary, as this is not a magnet assembly, as you really want to protect the step up board in this case. This assembly will of course deactivate when the coin door is open.

The directions in that website are OLD.
That references the old Stern step up board design.
You need to tap the 20v I/O line as well for the board to "sense" 50v power, and not lock the coil (ala mode Gottlieb System 80 games). Otherwise the board and coil will NOT work.

Do not "hot glue" anything, it makes good work look like amateur junk.

Distance from the tip of plunger to striker plate remains critical for a good knock. If you short change it, it will sound like crap even with more powerful coil.

You can leave the diode on the coil if you really desire, but make sure know what side the banded side is on in relation to connecting the 50v line or your will blow the fuse, transistor, diodes, and possibly even more..nasty way to be introduced to "real" knocker modifications and coil wiring...many tales of woe have occurred due to absence of not knowing this little fact.

Personal "kit" is mounted in the bottom of the cabinet, left of the transformer with a knocker plate attached to the support beam. I do not like to mount coils on the bottom of cabinets with potential for dust and dirt over time.
(I have a metal backbox, which I did not drill).
The assembly screws into the cabinet floor using T-nuts in three locations, just like the transformer flat bottom cabinet install.
No glue, no mess, removable.
Everything was pre-drilled.
This mounting needs to be strong to properly absorb the vibrations from the strike, giving a solid knock, not to mention ever coming loose in the cabinet or backbox if the game is transported.
If you REALLY do not want to drill anything, it would be possible to use industrial strength velcro, but I do not recommend it for this purpose as this is an assembly not a LED mod.

20/50v are tapped from the driver board (J7 and J10) running back through the wire harness into the cabinet.
Ground is cabinet wire braid near the plumb bob assembly.
Signal is tapped from the cabinet MOLEX coin meter connector versus backbox (J7).
AE 23-800 coil (diode was cut), but you could use something in the 22 AWG range for more power, but you might scare your dog and make him $#@! all over your carpet. Do not go higher than 22 AWG. If you want to know why, PM me, its not dangerous just counterproductive.

Assembly is quickly removable and looks factory installed.

I pulled the assembly from my game and put an extra 5 pin 0.156" MOLEX connector on to the protect the pins, to take the photo.

After installation, after diagnostic adjustments, remember during the test the software knocker will still activate, but not while in game. This is normal when the software is turned off on most games, unless Stern did a code correction. Unlikely, as this has remained standard base pinball code for a SAM machines.

Good luck!

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#6277 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

If you want be reversible use all MOLEX connectors, including a modified tap on the driver board. Z connectors do the trick.
There really is no such thing as "non-solder" however, you have to at least solder the coil unless you want to installing quick connect crimp connector fully insulated terminals on the coil as well. It is generally a good idea to hit a double wire connection with a small drop of solder anyway before using the MOLEX male or female pins to get a clean connection with the "twist". This includes if you decide to pop the 0.156" MOLEX pins on the I/O board for 20/50V and reinsert into a new connector and ditch the IDC one, instead of doing a partial dual connection with a Z-connector. Some people even solder the molex pins and wires together before inserting into the connector, but that is unnecessary, as the "wings" do their job.
Don't forget to add an in line fuse protector coming from the 50v line, prior to going into the coil MOLEX connector and step up board for I/O board protection against overloads or shorts, as the coil will not be dioded and the diode should be CUT OFF as it is not needed.
The directions in that side are OLD.
That is the old Stern step up board design.
You need to tap the 20v I/O line as well for the board to "sense" 50v power, and not lock the coil (ala mode Gottlieb System 80 games). Otherwise the board and coil will NOT work.
Do not "hot glue" anything, it makes good work look like amateur junk.
Distance from the tip of plunger to striker plate remains critical for a good knock. If you short change it, it will sound like crap even with more powerful coil.
You can leave the diode on the coil if you really desire, but make sure know what side the banded side is on in relation to connecting the 50v line or your will blow the fuse, transistor, diodes, and possibly even more..nasty way to be introduced to "real" knocker modifications and coil wiring...
Personal "kit" is mounted in the bottom of the cabinet, left of the transformer with a knocker plate.
(I have a metal backbox, which I did not drill).
The assembly screws into the cabinet floor using T-nuts in three locations.
Everything was pre-drilled.
This mounting needs to be strong to properly absorb the vibrations from the strike, giving a solid knock, not to mention ever coming loose in the cabinet or backbox if the game is transported.
If you REALLY do not want to drill anything, it would be possible to use industrial strength velcro, but I do not recommend it for this purpose.
20/50v are tapped from the driver board running back through the wire harness into the cabinet.
Ground is cabinet wire braid near the plumb bob assembly.
Signal is tapped from the cabinet MOLEX coin meter connector versus backbox.
AE 23-800 coil (diode was cut), but you could use something in the 22 AWG range for more power, but you might scare your dog and make him $#@! all over your carpet. Do not go higher than 22 AWG. If you want to know why, PM me, its not dangerous just counterproductive.
Assembly is quickly removable and looks factory installed.
I pulled the assembly from my game and put an extra 5 pin 0.156" MOLEX connector on to the protect the pins, to take the photo.
After installation remember during the test the software knocker will still activate, but not while in game.
Good luck!
20160217_024739_(resized).jpg

Awesome response BK, thanks for such a thorough reply.

I may PM you once I get the parts & actually start to wire the assembly together since the info/diagram I was looking at may be outdated as you mentioned.

Yeah, and I don't want to clean up after my dog (or guests) - lol.

#6278 8 years ago

I just posted this in the Met player's tips thread:

Quoted from Sparky:

I just discovered by accident that you can opt out of CIU and collect 5 million. Not optimal for points, and not really as much fun, but seems like a quick cheat to get to EOTL.
When given the choice in CIU, it defaults to FWTBT. If you hit the left flipper once, none of the CIU's will be highlighted, and then hit both flipper buttons. The ball will kick out, and you will continue to collect your next set of inserts for the next CIU.

#6279 8 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

I just posted this in the Met player's tips thread:

Nevermind. You can choose the 5 million all day, and it won't advance you toward EOTL unless you start each of the four CIU's.

#6280 8 years ago

Technically you are correct. But you can't choose 5m all day. The second time it's worth 6m, then 7m, etc.

#6281 8 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Technically you are correct. But you can't choose 5m all day. The second time it's worth 6m, then 7m, etc.

I tried 5 times in a row with the glass off to see if it would advance toward EOTL, but I only remember it awarding 5 mil each time.

#6282 8 years ago

Well you may be correct. I know that once you complete(or play) any of the CIU modes, then the next time in the points option is 6M.
Next time in 7M etc. I get super pissed when I get in a hurry and accidentally select the points. Someone once referred to that as "Crank It Down"!

#6283 8 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I get super pissed when I get in a hurry and accidentally select the points.

I did this once. Ever since, I take the 10 seconds to have sip of my drink, and take a breath.

#6284 8 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

I did this once. Ever since, I take the 10 seconds to have sip of my drink, and take a breath.

Unfortunately, those 10 seconds are coming off of your CIU mode time.

#6285 8 years ago
Quoted from stevevt:

Unfortunately, those 10 seconds are coming off of your CIU mode time.

The song timer doesn't start till you select the song.

#6286 8 years ago
Quoted from smassa:

The song timer doesn't start till you select the song.

I guess that makes sense. I know I rush through the whole process, because the timer definitely counts down while the instructions are on the screen (after the song selection).

#6287 8 years ago

STERN

Please fix the Attenuation bug!!!

Drive me crazy!

#6288 8 years ago
Quoted from stevevt:

I guess that makes sense. I know I rush through the whole process, because the timer definitely counts down while the instructions are on the screen (after the song selection).

Did you know there is a setting where you can turn the instructions for CIU off?

#6289 8 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Did you know there is a setting where you can turn the instructions for CIU off?

Just hit both flipper buttons. I like leaving the instructions on because a new player will occasionally hit a Crank It Up and its exciting for them.

#6290 8 years ago
Quoted from TOK:

Just hit both flipper buttons. I like leaving the instructions on because a new player will occasionally hit a Crank It Up and its exciting for them.

Exactly. I rush through it too. It's been a long time since I ran out of time on a CIU. Probably only happened to me once or twice. So no big deal. It's more an OCD thing knowing reading is taking away from the mode time.

#6291 8 years ago

So what order do you choose the CIU modes?

I always choose FTB, FWTBT, ES & then Battery if playing in comp as that seems to me to be the order for highest scoring first. I have chosen the points award a couple of times, once because I only need 4mil to beat player 1, and once on last ball because I had Coffin MB and Sparky MB ready to go and needed 50mil to beat player 1, I figured that would be a safer/higher scoring opportunity than a CIU mode, plus during the MB I would be working to the next CIU mode anyway.

Playing for fun it's a 50/50 split between FTB & ES as they just seem to have the best lighting effects and are most fun.

#6292 8 years ago

Does anyone have a pic of the complete set of Pinbits green plastic set installed on a game. Looking to see how it looks on the other plastics besides the slings and Sparky.

#6293 8 years ago
Quoted from Da_Topper:

Does anyone have a pic of the complete set of Pinbits green plastic set installed on a game. Looking to see how it looks on the other plastics besides the slings and Sparky.

The green Pinbits protector set I got only has green on the slings and outlanes. The sparky protector was yellow which I don't like, but I didn't realize you could request a clear one. I ended up making my own in clear. Then the rest of the plastic protectors they send are clear. I hope this helps.

#6295 8 years ago

That must be a new set. They didn't offer that when I bought mine. Sorry

#6296 8 years ago
Quoted from Da_Topper:

Does anyone have a pic of the complete set of Pinbits green plastic set installed on a game. Looking to see how it looks on the other plastics besides the slings and Sparky.

Here you go
I moved the right sling spotlight to illuminate the mystery scoop and put a green flex led in it, glows nicely and matches with the green theme going on.

IMG_3509.JPGIMG_3509.JPG

#6297 8 years ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

So what order do you choose the CIU modes?
I always choose FTB, FWTBT, ES & then Battery if playing in comp as that seems to me to be the order for highest scoring first. I have chosen the points award a couple of times, once because I only need 4mil to beat player 1, and once on last ball because I had Coffin MB and Sparky MB ready to go and needed 50mil to beat player 1, I figured that would be a safer/higher scoring opportunity than a CIU mode, plus during the MB I would be working to the next CIU mode anyway.
Playing for fun it's a 50/50 split between FTB & ES as they just seem to have the best lighting effects and are most fun.

I always take For Whom the Bell Tolls if I'm playing a pro. I always take Fade to Black if I'm playing a premium/LE. FTB with the spinners is pretty easy pickin's. Without the spinners, I'd rather combo ramps during FWTBT. Battery is always my last choice, but hey, you rarely ever get that far in a competition anyway.

#6298 8 years ago

A friend posted on FB that is was the 30th anniversary of "Master of Puppets" today. WOW

#6299 8 years ago

At request.

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#6300 8 years ago

I got bored so i played with my snake I think it now looks evil as shit. Anyone else paint there snake?

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Lighting - Under Cabinet
Arcade Upkeep
Under cabinet
From: $ 40.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
Interactive
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
SilverBall Designs
Protection
$ 39.00
Cabinet - Other
Arcade Upkeep
Other
6,500
Machine - For Sale
West Chicago, IL
From: $ 6.00
$ 199.00
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Shark
Decals
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinhead mods
Protection
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 7.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Z
Toys/Add-ons
$ 16.00
Lighting - Other
Slap Save Creations
Other
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toys/Add-ons
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
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