(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica Club - Ride the Lightning!

By swampfire

10 years ago


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There are 21,642 posts in this topic. You are on page 118 of 433.
-1
#5851 8 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Does the insult meter turn off the bleeped out curse words? My kids are almost 12 so it's not like they haven't heard those words but not something I want to promote either. I am mostly thinking of other kids or families that come over and want to play pinball. Although, nobody ever wants to play my pins so not sure if that should even be a concern.

My kids are 8 and 10. I have the machine set to family mode. My kids know better than to say any bad words. If they do they know there will be a punishment coming.

#5852 8 years ago

If it's those handful of call outs that are still of a concern, you could use pinball browser to remove them or change them to something else.

#5853 8 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

If it's those handful of call outs that are still of a concern, you could use pinball browser to remove them or change them to something else.

That's true - didn't think about that. Thanks for the tip! Seriously thinking about getting a pro. I rather have something a little more family friendly but it's so much fun to play. My kids know better as well but a pin like that needs the volume cranked up and it's going to bug me to hear bleeped out f bombs blasting through the house.

#5854 8 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

If it's those handful of call outs that are still of a concern, you could use pinball browser to remove them or change them to something else.

This is what I did on my Met. Pro. Sadly the family mode is still pretty raw and the bleeps don't really mask the words very well. I ended up editing a lot on PB Browser including the bleeps and I am really pleased with how it turned out. I don't think I have had anyone play my game that even noticed that I changed it other than the guys that own a Met. There was a little learning curve with PB Browser but I picked it up pretty quick. I haven't had time to mess with the latest code yet, so I'm still running 1.61. I don't know if it is possible to copy my stuff over to the new code or if I will just have to redo it all. Either way it is worth the time in my opinion.

-1
#5855 8 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

That's true - didn't think about that. Thanks for the tip! Seriously thinking about getting a pro. I rather have something a little more family friendly but it's so much fun to play. My kids know better as well but a pin like that needs the volume cranked up and it's going to bug me to hear bleeped out f bombs blasting through the house.

If you are buying a MET and need the *bleeps* this seems odd.
The band is not "family friendly".
Even the songs use profanity, unless you replace those as well.
It is not MET without the *bleeps*.

#5856 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

If you are buying a MET and need the *bleeps* this seems odd.
The band is not "family friendly".
Even the songs use profanity, unless you replace those as well.
It is not MET without the *bleeps*.

Actually if I remember correctly the songs on the game don't use profanity with the exception of one song that has "one" word in it and you have to really know the song to catch it. Pull the lyrics for each song and check it yourself. If you don't like the words of the songs they can be replaced with the instrumental versions pretty easily too. I really enjoy the game but don't want to listen to all the bleeped call outs, so I changed them. I think the game should have shipped with a true family mode for those of us with kids. It didn't so I made my own thanks to Pinball Browser.

If those things don't bother you and you feel that it isn't Metallica with out the *bleeps* then that's your opinion and you can enjoy the game as shipped.

#5857 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

If you are buying a MET and need the *bleeps* this seems odd.
The band is not "family friendly".
Even the songs use profanity, unless you replace those as well.
It is not MET without the *bleeps*.

Met is a great game. People should do what the need to do to enjoy it. If the callouts bother you, change them. If they dont, then don't. Its not cool to judge others

-2
#5858 8 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Met is a great game. People should do what the need to do to enjoy it. If the callouts bother you, change them. If they dont, then don't. Its not cool to judge others

Then you have not seen them in concert.
"Lets change the lyrics and personal conduct so we wont offend anybody."

I am entitled to my opinion, there is no "judgement".
No *bleeping, bleepity bleep the bleep* here.
That requires me to use the word YOU with individual targeted comments.
People can do whatever they want with their games, including covering their bodies with chocolate fudge while they play or fix their machines, if that gives them a rise.

I have seen it all at this point in collecting years.

#5859 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Then you have not seen them in concert.
"Lets change the lyrics and personal conduct so we wont offend anybody."
I am entitled to my opinion, there is no "judgement".
No *bleeping, bleepity bleep the bleep* here.
People can do whatever they want with their games, including covering their bodies with chocolate while they play or fix their machines, if that gives them a rise.
I have seen it all at this point in collecting years.

I'm not sure how it's relevant, but I have seen theM in concert 3 times.

But I do agree with you that people can do whatever they want with their games.

#5860 8 years ago

I am starting to get some bunching/bubbling in the side decals right at the flipper buttons on my LED PRO. Reading online there appear to be several types of protection for this area. There are clear vinyl, clear plastic, and the black powder coated stern ones (and the skull variant that also requires extra holes).

Has anyone used these? Do they work and do they look/feel ok?

http://www.pinballdecals.com/ButtonGuardProtectorsPage.html

I really don't think the clear vinyl will help in my situation. Looking for feedback. Thanks!

#5861 8 years ago
Quoted from baloo70:

I am starting to get some bunching/bubbling in the side decals right at the flipper buttons on my LED PRO. Reading online there appear to be several types of protection for this area. There are clear vinyl, clear plastic, and the black powder coated stern ones (and the skull variant that also requires extra holes).
Has anyone used these? Do they work and do they look/feel ok?

You want to use these:

Stern CABINET SHIELD HALF-MOON 2 PIECE KIT
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-6801-00
They are powder coated black and completely match your rails, hinges, legs, and lockbar.
These are the cheapest cost available for the same exact product.

I re-powder coated mine purple candy coat and then enamel cleared along with the hinges.

A whole lot cheaper than the $600 Metallic word cut set from Pinball Refinery.
See below for base design, they were copied from this set in Germany:
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/metallica/6530/side-rails-metallica-2-piece-set

These are the "skull" ones you were talking about, $70 each.
http://www.pin-protection.com/index.php/products/product/show/6-metallica-skull-flipper-button-protectors

#5862 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

You want to use these:
Stern CABINET SHIELD HALF-MOON 2 PIECE KIT
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-6801-00
They are powder coated black and completely match your rails, hinges, legs, and lockbar.

Or these, way cooler looking full siderail replacements...that don't require new screw holes in your cabinet.

IMG_20151104_124015672_(resized).jpgIMG_20151104_124015672_(resized).jpg

#5863 8 years ago

Finished my costumized armor and installed the all the remaining snake mods on my premium monsters today

The metalic purple varnish looks much more darker on the pictures than in real.

I'm loving it, it's a great game!

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#5864 8 years ago

Simple, two tone, done (with a little metallic shimmer).
Costs less than $40, instead of $600+ ($15 for the protectors).
I took them to an autobody shop, showed them the paint, matched it, and they did the rest for powder coat with enamel clear.
Hinges, leg bolts, coin door slots, machine bolts, and other small parts, not shown, but were included in the cost.
Remember these parts are "small" in comparison to what they are used to doing most of the time.

I used my savings for MET NOS game specific parts and assemblies that will be impossible to find in less than 3 years.
I really do mean that, as the Stern inflation doubled in the the last 2 years alone directly, and the parts are still available!
You can always buy new rails, NOS parts you will not, or will find them at 200-400% mark up.
Good luck trying to find a Sparky in 10 years.
Stern does not keep parts stockpiles for games exceeding 5 years old, unless they do rerun.
Only a few games like that have occurred in over 30 years of Stern Industries, Inc. (as the company is today, not the "old" Stern).
Some people have had to wait over two decades just for one single game specific part to be remade for Bally/Williams/Gottlieb games, if they did not do it themselves beforehand.
(I had to do that quite a few times).

Something to consider when "pimping your ride" for new collectors.
If you game does not work, no matter how "cool" it looks, it is a 300 lbs doorstop.
A playfield with broken parts is no longer what it used to be.
It is hard to sell game for equal or more than you bought it, based on cabinet alone.
People might try to argue, "home games do not get abuse or broken parts", but this is inaccurate.

"Anything can break at anytime on a pinball machine, all you can do is prepare for the inevitability".
Side armor does not break.
At least it never has in my lifetime, although I have seen a few get bent.

My opinion, collectors can do whatever they want.

Two_Tone_(resized).jpgTwo_Tone_(resized).jpg

#5865 8 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Or these, way cooler looking full siderail replacements...that don't require new screw holes in your cabinet.
IMG_20151104_124015672_(resized).jpg

Where did you get those?

16
#5867 8 years ago

Am I the only one that doesn't like the Metallica name cut out of every piece of armor? It already says it in 2 fool tall neon letters down the side of the cabinet.

#5868 8 years ago
Quoted from baloo70:

I am starting to get some bunching/bubbling in the side decals right at the flipper buttons on my LED PRO. Reading online there appear to be several types of protection for this area. There are clear vinyl, clear plastic, and the black powder coated stern ones (and the skull variant that also requires extra holes).
Has anyone used these? Do they work and do they look/feel ok?
http://www.pinballdecals.com/ButtonGuardProtectorsPage.html
I really don't think the clear vinyl will help in my situation. Looking for feedback. Thanks!

If you want the black wrinkle powder coat lolly pop rails WITHOUT the screw holes get them from pinballlife, $60. I got them for my Batman Forever and had them powder coated candy blue. My BF uses the same rails as your game. I hate those lolly pop rails with the 3 screw holes, I like the smooth and clean look of the unscrew type and not putting screw holes through the side art and cab.

#5869 8 years ago

Just got my Premium setup. Played a couple games and it needs some sort of tweak.
Seems level, but maybe not 100% so that might be the issue.
Problem is that the ball sits at the top of the machine (middle of the orbit, right below the plastic post).
I can lighten up on the tilt-bob and nudge it, but it takes a serious push to get it moving again.

Anyone else have this happen?

Again, maybe I just need to make it steeper? Currently at 6.5 according to the digital level. Does seem a little on the slow side though...

#5870 8 years ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

Again, maybe I just need to make it steeper? Currently at 6.5 according to the digital level. Does seem a little on the slow side though...

Did you level on the pf or the glass. Just checking.

#5871 8 years ago

Yeah, fair question. On the PF as always.
I did use the inclinometer on my Ipad though. It's usually accurate, but just for safe-checking, I sometimes use the torpedo level as well.
I'll look at that first when I have a few minutes.

#5872 8 years ago

Probably just needs to be a little steeper.

#5873 8 years ago
Quoted from TOK:

Am I the only one that doesn't like the Metallica name cut out of every piece of armor? It already says it in 2 fool tall neon letters down the side of the cabinet.

You are not alone.

"Pimp my ride, MET everywhere please"!!!!
Rails, Hinges, Speakers, Cabinet, Backglass, Coin Door...
(Am I missing anywhere else?)

"No thanks, I will pass".

#5874 8 years ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

Just got my Premium setup. Played a couple games and it needs some sort of tweak.
Seems level, but maybe not 100% so that might be the issue.
Problem is that the ball sits at the top of the machine (middle of the orbit, right below the plastic post).
I can lighten up on the tilt-bob and nudge it, but it takes a serious push to get it moving again.
Anyone else have this happen?
Again, maybe I just need to make it steeper? Currently at 6.5 according to the digital level. Does seem a little on the slow side though...

Could your uppost need leveled to the playfield? There is a post the pops up back ther to stop orbit shots and allow balls to get into the pops. When its down, it should be level with playfield. If its lower the ball could get stuck there?

#5875 8 years ago
Quoted from TOK:

Am I the only one that doesn't like the Metallica name cut out of every piece of armor? It already says it in 2 fool tall neon letters down the side of the cabinet.

My thoughts exactly, each to their own.......thankfully.

#5876 8 years ago

I couldn't deal with mis-matched armor, or that horrible hammer. . I put them on to protect the side art, and in my opinion, there is no point in "protecting" the cabinet by putting screw holes into it.

IMG_20151021_220449852_(resized).jpgIMG_20151021_220449852_(resized).jpg

#5877 8 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I couldn't deal with mis-matched armor, or that horrible hammer. . I put them on to protect the side art, and in my opinion, there is no point in "protecting" the cabinet by putting screw holes into it.
IMG_20151021_220449852_(resized).jpg

Another $40, and you can do the lockbar and rails.
Total cost $80 for powder coating and flipper protectors.

If I want to order another complete set of lockbar and rails, additional $120, not $300 (chrome is just insanely overpriced in a different direction).
Simpler version with no fancy cutouts (not color), side rails at $100+ (no lockbar).
Best part, no time pressure, availability issues, or problems.
Do it whenever you want, that is what I did.
I have not decided yet.
Last person that saw the machine, that it was from factory that way.

"To each their own".

#5878 8 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I couldn't deal with mis-matched armor, or that horrible hammer.

Is that a hammer - looks more like a rawhide mallet to me

#5879 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

I used my savings for MET NOS game specific parts and assemblies that will be impossible to find in less than 3 years.

Besides Sparky, what do you consider game specific parts to stockpile? I have an extra drop target set.

#5880 8 years ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

Yeah, fair question. On the PF as always.
I did use the inclinometer on my Ipad though. It's usually accurate, but just for safe-checking, I sometimes use the torpedo level as well.
I'll look at that first when I have a few minutes.

Spent far too long adjusting that plastic post.
Then we tried adjusting the levelling/incline.
Finally had to bend the ball guide a little.
Seems great now.
(Fingers are crossed)

#5881 8 years ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

Besides Sparky, what do you consider game specific parts to stockpile? I have an extra drop target set.

"Essential"

Sparky
Captive ball, Newton cube, or both
Plastic set
Decal set
Target set
Magnet cores
Disappearing magnet ball core

"Non essential but will be rare"

Disappearing magnet assembly
Grave Marker slide assembly
Metal ramp sets
Translite
Magnet processing board (eventually)
Step up voltage board (eventually)
Hammer mechanism assembly
Hammer head
Playfield
Complete under playfield magnet assemblies (eventually)

Keep in mind this is contingent if there are additional reruns, after 5 years the chances get small. After 10 years, highly unlikely. After 15 years, extremely doubtful.

Some people may say, "it does not matter", but I can tell you a lot of people wished that had bought parts for BLY/WMS/STN parts for old games when the WERE available. Right now, there is only ONE primary source that is creating the parts.

Purchasing all these parts listed is prohibitively expensive due to Stern monopoly, especially assemblies at nearly $300 a pop.

In fact, some parts are only available from certain suppliers, which makes matters even worse.

#5882 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

If you want the black wrinkle powder coat lolly pop rails WITHOUT the screw holes get them from pinballlife, $60. I got them for my Batman Forever and had them powder coated candy blue. My BF uses the same rails as your game. I hate those lolly pop rails with the 3 screw holes, I like the smooth and clean look of the unscrew type and not putting screw holes through the side art and cab.

I like this solution the best. I thought all the lolly pop rails had the additional screw holes. Thanks - this is exactly what I was looking for.

#5883 8 years ago
Quoted from baloo70:

I like this solution the best. I thought all the lolly pop rails had the additional screw holes. Thanks - this is exactly what I was looking for.

I think so too, this is what candy blue looks like on one. I just wish they would work for my BOP game, haven't checked yet though.

IMGA0303[1]_(resized).JPGIMGA0303[1]_(resized).JPG

#5884 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

"Essential"
Sparky
Captive ball, Newton cube, or both
Plastic set
Decal set
Target set
Magnet cores
Disappearing magnet ball core
"Non essential but will be rare"
Disappearing magnet assembly
Grave Marker slide assembly
Metal ramp sets
Translite
Magnet processing board (eventually)
Step up voltage board (eventually)
Hammer mechanism assembly
Hammer head
Playfield
Complete under playfield magnet assemblies (eventually)
Keep in mind this is contingent if there are additional reruns, after 5 years the chances get small. After 10 years, highly unlikely. After 15 years, extremely doubtful.
Some people may say, "it does not matter", but I can tell you a lot of people wished that had bought parts for BLY/WMS/STN parts for old games when the WERE available. Right now, there is only ONE primary source that is creating the parts.
Purchasing all these parts listed is prohibitively expensive due to Stern monopoly, especially assemblies at nearly $300 a pop.
In fact, some parts are only available from certain suppliers, which makes matters even worse.

Could 3-D printing could change the need to have such a stockpile? Especially in 10+ years when it may be as common as a $50 inkjet printer is now.

#5885 8 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Could 3-D printing could change the need to have such a stockpile? Especially in 10+ years when it may be as common as a $50 inkjet printer is now.

Or maybe bring the broken part to a company who has a top-end 3D printer and have them make another.

#5886 8 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Could 3-D printing could change the need to have such a stockpile? Especially in 10+ years when it may be as common as a $50 inkjet printer is now.

NOS is NOS.
To some this is important.

Reproduction is reproduction.
Sometimes the quality is excellent (CPR proper screened plastic sets for example) sometimes it is plain embarassing to the point that get thrown in the trash.

Certain parts are easier to reproduce, but do not expect it to necessarily "cheaper" as pinball has a tendency to be the opposite with parts, especially low production runs.

Remember you NEED an original NOS part in untouched condition for proper scanning...
Laser scans of plastics ramps for molds are a great example, as current methods without them cannot make good results.

#5887 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

It makes a difference, especially dependent on wire gauge used for the application.
The most common alligator clips and extensions are 22 gauge and are insufficient for proper subwoofer transmission of audio signal.
Alligator clips will provide higher levels of electrical resistance anyway.
If the alligator clips are dirty or corroded, the signal degradation is even worse as the electrical resistance is even higher.
This is one of the reasons why the PinSub board is a better option.
If owners are really soldering wires of their subwoofers to their MPU boards, this is highly unwise.

This is a really oblong way to say... CABLES MATTER when driving speakers - not that clips are insufficient ways of connecting things. But we aren't doing what you copied...

The resistance over this distance is pretty trivial. 22awg vs 14 awg stranded.. 14awg is about 7x better. But at 10ft we are talking about 0.014 ohms in resistance for 22awg. It's pretty dang small. Where alligator clips would be bad is transmitting power.. but again we are talking tiny amounts here. The line input of these powered subs is designed to be high impedance to draw basically no load. You are comparing apples and oranges when talking about powered speakers vs tapping in a high impedance load.

Ever notice your DMM leads aren't 12 or 14 awg to measure these signals without a problem?? same principle.

The powered sub is taking speaker level as a signal input.. not to drive the load of the subwoofer.

#5888 8 years ago

What kind of LED goes in behind the Snake head? It's a green flat top LED I assume.. but it's on a flasher circuit in the manual.

But I only see #555 style 6.3V LEDs in that form factor from my browsing. Which bulb do I need for that spot?

#5889 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Laser scans of plastics ramps for molds are a great example, as current methods without them cannot make good results.

I beg to differ, Freeplay40's ramps are BETTER then NOS ramps.....and he makes them at home.

#5890 8 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

What kind of LED goes in behind the Snake head? It's a green flat top LED I assume.. but it's on a flasher circuit in the manual.
But I only see #555 style 6.3V LEDs in that form factor from my browsing. Which bulb do I need for that spot?

http://cointaker.com/products/copy-of-3-89-super-5-copy-of-89-super-5

The original is white, but green looks much better!

Rob

#5892 8 years ago
Quoted from TOK:

Am I the only one that doesn't like the Metallica name cut out of every piece of armor? It already says it in 2 fool tall neon letters down the side of the cabinet.

Yea it's a bit redundant... I see that with toppers as well. Using a scary guy or throwing star would be better.

#5893 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I beg to differ, Freeplay40's ramps are BETTER then NOS ramps.....and he makes them at home.

Think about the amount of work he does to sculpt and make them.
It is time intensive, and ultimately expensive if the seller chooses.
Not everybody is "charity worker" in this hobby.

Pick two: time, money, quality

Other methods are cheaper, which circles back to my original point.

Get the parts now, gamble on aftermarket parts production from enthusiasts that may or may not be good quality, do not care because you will not own the machine anyway in the future (which can be a common opinion), find you own solutions, or pay later.

I have a hard time seeing Sparkys reproduced WITHOUT Stern copyright approval, which also cost $$$.

It is a person's choice.
I do not feel like riding the roller coaster of "parts wars" with MET as I have with machines of the distant past.

#5894 8 years ago

But that would be the big ugly exposed LED type... what is in there stock? Stock is a domed LED of some sort...

#5895 8 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

But that would be the big ugly exposed LED type... what is in there stock? Stock is a domed LED of some sort...

I thought you were talking about the flasher hidden behind the snake, not the LED above the head. If you search cointaker or pinball life websites you might find something.

Rob

#5896 8 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I thought you were talking about the flasher hidden behind the snake, not the LED above the head. If you search cointaker or pinball life websites you might find something.
Rob

... and now you know why I posted here.. as I've not been able to match up the stern P/N to a part

#5897 8 years ago

Call Melissa at cointaker, she can help you.

#5898 8 years ago

Interesting. Both the Premium and the Pro are in the top 10 this week.

#5899 8 years ago

Just wanted to ask if you guys had an opinion between these two songs?

Sad But True
or
King Nothing

#5900 8 years ago

Sad But True gets my vote. Harder beat, dirtier, grittier. King Nothing is a good song, but a little more on the commercial side of Metallica's work.

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