(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica Club - Ride the Lightning!

By swampfire

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 21,642 posts
  • 1,175 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 days ago by newpinbin
  • Topic is favorited by 424 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_0402 (resized).jpeg
D42B8796-F379-414B-A278-8FF23DD2CA1D (resized).jpeg
C7302EC0-E40C-4401-A735-26261435813E (resized).jpeg
38320F75-D438-4EC6-B8F0-EA529FC5A079 (resized).jpeg
51CBA7A7-76AF-40F6-997E-2582DB57CB32 (resized).jpeg
2EB670D4-ACA6-43E3-B535-41603CD5B57C (resized).jpeg
IMG_6790 (resized).jpeg
met magnet update (resized).JPG
711e62c89062984f8180055465d890896b652bf8 (resized).jpg
IMG_2159 (resized).jpeg
Metallica PBT 2 1 (resized).jpg
Metallica PBT 1 1 (resized).jpg
IMG_0369 (resized).jpeg
45F86A5C-164A-4AE7-82D5-F956B0FBF61A (resized).png
13D88BB1-0F57-46B2-92AB-557955F4A9B6 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0271 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 21,642 posts in this topic. You are on page 117 of 433.
#5801 8 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

This additional fuse protection is good advice. The only thing I would add is since you are going to just cut the connectors off, modify with the larger molex pins/connectors, and change the fuse out as well, you would be better off just getting 40 cent in-line fuse holders from China, rather than pay more than $6.50 a piece (plus postage) for PBLs. Only drawback is you might have to wait 2 or 3 weeks longer to get them.

Fuse_Holders_(resized).jpg

Nobody should ever "cut off" anything on a game, period. I never have in 26+ years except to replace a burned or acid corroded IDC connector with a MOLEX locking housing one. I never advised this in my posting. Quick disconnects are critical for good maintenance.

MOLEX extensions were added with proper receptacles to existing connectors on this game, just like my others.

It looks completely factory including plastic zipties.
Only a trained eye knows a the difference, as the wire colors do not match.

Cheap protection for costly PFs that will become eventually "unobtanium" along with other game specific assemblies. Games do not stay nice unless you protect them. This goes for $300 plastic sets as well. Then you can play to your heart's content.

Part of my photo collage / video of my MET Monster Premium "Super Deluxe" version. Coming to a theater near you soon.

-1
#5802 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Nobody should ever "cut off" anything on a game, period.

You need to read more carefully, friend. I said that you have to cut the small Molex connectors off of the PBL in-line fuses in order to put the large ones on.

#5803 8 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

For you LE and Premium owners. Does your hammer 'bounce' when it activates? The hammer on my game goes down, comes up a bit and then goes down again. Last year I experimented with different spring tensions on the coil assembly, but that did not help. Has anyone found a solution for this?
Rob

Met Pro.

(jk)

I actually think the bounce would be an improvement - it would enhance the hammer effect.

#5804 8 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

For you LE and Premium owners. Does your hammer 'bounce' when it activates? The hammer on my game goes down, comes up a bit and then goes down again. Last year I experimented with different spring tensions on the coil assembly, but that did not help. Has anyone found a solution for this?
Rob

Nope the hammer on my METLE has been flawless since I have owned it.

#5805 8 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

You need to read more carefully, friend. I said that you have to cut the small Molex connectors off of the PBL in-line fuses in order to put the large ones on.

This was not meant for anyone in particular.
This was meant for the hundreds of new collectors that do "less experienced" repairs.
Another one of my old sayings, "If you have to permanently modifiy a pinball machine to install something, do not do it".
Just like what I hear frequently of "just solder the wires to the board, its simple and easy".
It happens...a lot.

#5806 8 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

Also, now there is an annoying "thump" sound when the machine is powered off. I'm using a Sony sub - not a Polk, but not sure how that might make a difference.

Install a capacitor in the circuit line, just like from the Stern factory regarding the speakers.
A "green board" is better, but in a pinch you can "shrink tube" one, you are unfamiliar.

Here is how to fix it for the "masses" (this is a general "help line" not "individual quote line crosshairs"):
http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Design/dcthump.htm

It has nothing to do with the PinSub board, as I saw nothing in the design to filter the initial electrical signal.
Without this modification, people hear the "thump" both ways, on and off.
It is present in MET without a subwoofer (and most other pinball machines which gets louder with age as the capacitors dry out), but the factory speakers filter the signal a little bit, and it is less noticeable at lower volumes.

It is only louder from the subwoofer directly due to the low frequency transmission.

Knowledge is power.

NOTE:
The "thump" is not dangerous or damaging speakers unless the volume is set VERY LOUD.
Generally, professional speakers when powered on even with dedicated circuits are set to low volumes and then raised after they are powered on.
If you want to avoid the "thump" with a subwoofer and not use a circuit, place the subwoofer on standby mode, and then turn it on after the machine is powered up.
No "thump".

#5807 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

This was not meant for anyone in particular.

Really, because you quoted me, in particular.

#5808 8 years ago

Didn't he quote you talking about someone else cutting? Lots of snow in Florida, must be cabin fever

#5809 8 years ago

Duplicate posting.
Happy pinballing.

#5810 8 years ago

Wisdom is knowing when to stop talking.

#5811 8 years ago

So I need a quick-fix solution.

The LED bulbs keep falling out of my spotlights during gameplay. I was having a great game & the damn bulb slid down into the ball trough during multiball, jammed it all up. That's not happening again.

I know I can do the heat shrink idea. Just wondering if someone had another solution.

#5812 8 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

So I need a quick-fix solution.
The LED bulbs keep falling out of my spotlights during gameplay. I was having a great game & the damn bulb slid down into the ball trough during multiball, jammed it all up. That's not happening again.
I know I can do the heat shrink idea. Just wondering if someone had another solution.

Happened to me way too often as well. Ended up putting a couple small dots of superglue on the bulbs and hasn't happened since. I'd recommend a hot glue gun instead if u have one though.

#5813 8 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

For you LE and Premium owners. Does your hammer 'bounce' when it activates? The hammer on my game goes down, comes up a bit and then goes down again. Last year I experimented with different spring tensions on the coil assembly, but that did not help. Has anyone found a solution for this?
Rob

I see this on mine... doesn't actually bother me enough to do anything about it.

#5814 8 years ago

I would like to change One to Orion
I found an Orion version (cover though but sounds great) with the same length. Or isn't it necessary to be the same length?

Can this be changed together with the song title at ball start?
Is there any other part of the game were a piece or One is used? To my knowledge there isn't any.

#5815 8 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

Wisdom is knowing when to stop talking.

Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is knowing it doesn't go in a fruit salad.

#5816 8 years ago
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:

Still going strong 4G plays later

4 giga (eg. billion) plays?!?!? wow, that's a lot in a such a short period of time and that playfield looks like it's holding up pretty well

(I think you mean 4K plays)

#5818 8 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

I would like to change One to Orion
I found an Orion version (cover though but sounds great) with the same length. Or isn't it necessary to be the same length?
Can this be changed together with the song title at ball start?
Is there any other part of the game were a piece or One is used? To my knowledge there isn't any.

The song needs to be the same length as the song it's replacing. If it's longer, it can be edited in a program like Audacity to fade out. If it's shorter, some sort of "filler" should be added, otherwise there will be silence at the end of the song.

The last two minutes of One (estimated time) is used during Lady Justice ramp/orbit mode.

#5819 8 years ago

Thank you Sparky. Didn't realize it was used during lady justice. I'll keep it this way then

#5820 8 years ago

Oh I remember it well the Y2G bug.

#5821 8 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Thank you Sparky. Didn't realize it was used during lady justice. I'll keep it this way then

What's wrong with letting the last 2 minutes of your Orion version play during Lady Justice mode?

#5822 8 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

What's wrong with letting the last 2 minutes of your Orion version play during Lady Justice mode?

I don't see a problem with that.

#5823 8 years ago

can anybody tell me if there are any songs in the metallica pinball that are not used in any mode
I would like to ad a song...

thanks

#5824 8 years ago
Quoted from pascal-pinball:

can anybody tell me if there are any songs in the metallica pinball that are not used in any mode
I would like to ad a song...
thanks

Unforgiven is not tied to any mode or multiball, but it plays a short riff after the match feature.

The songs that play during multiballs are not "tied" to those multiballs, except maybe MoP on Graveyard MB or RTL on Sparky MB. You could also swap out Creeping Death and choose the option not to play it during Sparky MB. Sad But True plays during Snake MB, but that can be replaced without issue. For Whom the Bell Tolls plays during Coffin/Casket MB, but can also be replaced. Lots of options.

#5825 8 years ago
Quoted from Baiter:

Rob_G said:
For you LE and Premium owners. Does your hammer 'bounce' when it activates? The hammer on my game goes down, comes up a bit and then goes down again. Last year I experimented with different spring tensions on the coil assembly, but that did not help. Has anyone found a solution for this?
Rob

I see this on mine... doesn't actually bother me enough to do anything about it.

My hammer 'bounces' as well.

#5826 8 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

For you LE and Premium owners. Does your hammer 'bounce' when it activates? The hammer on my game goes down, comes up a bit and then goes down again. Last year I experimented with different spring tensions on the coil assembly, but that did not help. Has anyone found a solution for this?
Rob

This is a coil trigger activation signal issues coming from MPU or code from what I see.
Almost like a "double tap" feedback signal after the disappearing magnet assembly activates.
Conversely, the MPU might be sending two signals to the hammer, one at activation and one when the ball drops.
Testing would be required.
It has nothing to do directly with the physical hammer assembly or springs.

Which leads me to an assessment...
The one thing I see that COULD fix the problem is adding a 1N4004 or 1N4007 diode to the 26-1200 hammer coil.
It would be a very easy test using temporary wire leads and a diode during gameplay, and would not damage anything.

#5827 8 years ago

thanks sparky !!!

#5828 8 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

For you LE and Premium owners. Does your hammer 'bounce' when it activates? The hammer on my game goes down, comes up a bit and then goes down again. Last year I experimented with different spring tensions on the coil assembly, but that did not help. Has anyone found a solution for this?
Rob

Yep - mine bounces - it started when I updated to the newest rom version. This version also added 'wiggling' of the ball on the disappearing magnet. I figured it was just part of the update. Now I'm curious if that is the case.

#5829 8 years ago

My ball wiggles too.

running .64

#5830 8 years ago
Quoted from Pinterest:

Yep - mine bounces - it started when I updated to the newest rom version. This version also added 'wiggling' of the ball on the disappearing magnet. I figured it was just part of the update. Now I'm curious if that is the case.

That is caused by magnet "pulsing" of electric current.
The time cycling of the magnet was changed, partly to make sure it grabs the ball and not lose it.

#5831 8 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

There is a drastic diff between sub and no sub - I'm not saying otherwise. There is just no significant difference between hooking the sub up to the cab speaker or hooking it up to the pinsub board in my case.

You might want to check and make sure you set it up correctly. I don't know what that $35 dollar board did, but it made a world of difference...in a good way. Like others have said, I had to turn the sub waaaaaay down from where it was when it was clipped onto the subwoofer.

#5832 8 years ago
Quoted from hank35:

You might want to check and make sure you set it up correctly.

It's set up correctly. Like I said, there may be some difference, but IMO either setup will result in the same desired "loudness" (with plenty of margin to spare) by turning the volume knob on the sub a little. I didn't notice any improvement in the quality of the sound myself. YMMV.

#5833 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

This is a coil trigger activation signal issues coming from MPU or code from what I see.
Almost like a "double tap" feedback signal after the disappearing magnet assembly activates.
Conversely, the MPU might be sending two signals to the hammer, one at activation and one when the ball drops.
Testing would be required.
It has nothing to do directly with the physical hammer assembly or springs.
Which leads me to an assessment...
The one thing I see that COULD fix the problem is adding a 1N4004 or 1N4007 diode to the 26-1200 hammer coil.
It would be a very easy test using temporary wire leads and a diode during gameplay, and would not damage anything.

The spring is mechanically related because that is a force the coil has to fight against to keep the hammer in the down position. It seems to me like the coil fires, attempts to hold and then fires the coil again. It's the hold attempt where the hammer comes back up a bit. Code probably could fix it if the coil pulse was changed.

Rob

#5834 8 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

It's set up correctly. Like I said, there may be some difference, but IMO either setup will result in the same desired "loudness" (with plenty of margin to spare) by turning the volume knob on the sub a little. I didn't notice any improvement in the quality of the sound myself. YMMV.

Maybe it's your Sony sub.

#5835 8 years ago

My polk hits hard wires sodered to the sub

#5836 8 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

The spring is mechanically related because that is a force the coil has to fight against to keep the hammer in the down position. It seems to me like the coil fires, attempts to hold and then fires the coil again. It's the hold attempt where the hammer comes back up a bit. Code probably could fix it if the coil pulse was changed.
Rob

Test your theory with another assembly and a different spring, you will be surprised what you find.
The up/down bell armature assembly is a good one to start off with overall.
Unless you decide to use a shooter rod spring that is not designed for it or one that is overwhelmingly resistive not meant for general assemblies, the spring make only a very minor differences.
This was already mentioned when people "twiddled" with the assembly.

Coil activations of 20-50v are very powerful, and overcome most coil spring tensions instantaneously.
The return spring strength is meant to bring the assembly back to its normal state of rest.
A bigger problem is when a spring is used that is too weak to do its job, which is not the case here.

There is no real "hold" time programmed with the sequenced with the hammer coil (or it is just extremely short), hence the "bounce" which again relates to the output MPU signal, not a "rebound" of the hammer from activation.
I will clip a diode on the coil and see if the "bounce" is dissipated, my experience says it will.
This was just overlooked as a concern from Stern in my assessment as "not a really a problem".

#5837 8 years ago

Short non technical comment write up in understanding the concept of electrical resistance related to alligator clips and subwoofers and how they apply to sound degradation/voltage drop versus normal speaker wire and connectors...

"Normally when I measure woofers with my woofer tester, I use speaker wire for all leads and jumper wires. But last night I was measuring several DVC subs, and thought, "Hey, I can just use alligator clips"... WRONG! I ended up with some very wacky results, like dual 2-ohm voice coils wired in parallel producing an ReVC spec of close to 5-ohms.
I ran it again... same result. I calibrated. I restarted the computer. I double checked resistance at the speaker terminals with a DMM (and got the expected .9-ohm ReVC) -- what could be wrong. Then I measured the resistance from one end of a 3 ft gator clip to the other... and got close to 2-ohms... yikes!
I connected the gator clips to the speaker leads and measured with the DMM... bingo -- that explained it. I had used one set of alligator clips for test leads, and one set for jumper wires between the VC's. Replacing the gator clips with some good old 14 ga PE Sound King speaker wire fixed everything...
So remember, no small gauge alligator clips for loudspeaker measurement purposes."

It makes a difference, especially dependent on wire gauge used for the application.
The most common alligator clips and extensions are 22 gauge and are insufficient for proper subwoofer transmission of audio signal.
Alligator clips will provide higher levels of electrical resistance anyway.
If the alligator clips are dirty or corroded, the signal degradation is even worse as the electrical resistance is even higher.
This is one of the reasons why the PinSub board is a better option.
If owners are really soldering wires of their subwoofers to their MPU boards, this is highly unwise.

#5838 8 years ago

Question for MET owners - how family friendly is family friendly mode? I've played a few on location and don't remember anything that bad. It's always loud with other games running so might of not heard everything. I heard some words are just bleeped out but not sure.

#5839 8 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Question for MET owners - how family friendly is family friendly mode? I've played a few on location and don't remember anything that bad. It's always loud with other games running so might of not heard everything. I heard some words are just bleeped out but not sure.

Basically like watching local channels on your TV. Curse words are removed.

To make it fully family friendly turn the insult meter down and put on family mode and you'll be fine.

#5840 8 years ago

I'll ask again, could we move the "alligator clip" conversations to a separate thread? It impacts more than one game so I think non-met owners may want to engage. Plus it's starting to muddy up the MET specific conversations happening in this thread.

#5841 8 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Question for MET owners - how family friendly is family friendly mode? I've played a few on location and don't remember anything that bad. It's always loud with other games running so might of not heard everything. I heard some words are just bleeped out but not sure.

It's family friendly, but it's not 100% clean. You'll hear things like "Hell Yeah", "Damn", etc. You'll also hear things like, "Jack F@#-N Pot" and "He's Fu#@ed Now", where the actual word is bleeped but it doesn't take much imagination to understand what was actually said.

#5842 8 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

It's family friendly, but it's not 100% clean. You'll hear things like "Hell Yeah", "Damn", etc. You'll also hear things like, "Jack F@#-N Pot" and "He's Fu#@ed Now", where the actual word is bleeped but it doesn't take much imagination to understand what was actually said.

Does the insult meter turn off the bleeped out curse words? My kids are almost 12 so it's not like they haven't heard those words but not something I want to promote either. I am mostly thinking of other kids or families that come over and want to play pinball. Although, nobody ever wants to play my pins so not sure if that should even be a concern.

#5843 8 years ago

I'm guessing the hammer "bounce" is a feature, not a flaw. Hammers do naturally recoil (with the exception of a "dead blow" hammer) when they smack a solid object and this is just simulating it (OK, on a grand scale!).

#5844 8 years ago

Lovin' my Met
2 issues out of box
Mystery switch not registering
Ball Bounce back from left orbit shot

Mystery switch adjusted now scores correctly
Metal post on order

#5845 8 years ago
Quoted from gatordad:

Lovin' my Met
2 issues out of box
Mystery switch not registering
Ball Bounce back from left orbit shot
Mystery switch adjusted now scores correctly
Metal post on order

Ok first congrats!!!

Second, I have the same issues, but I'm a noob, so I am hesitant to mess with the game for fear of making it worse. Can you explain what you did to fix both? I was even unsure if the left orbit reject was an issue, since I'm not sure what it "should" do

#5846 8 years ago

Mystery scoop switch need to be bent slightly as it would kick out but not register the scoop shot

Second is the left orbit shot, when it hits the post that pops up it supposed to stop and dribble into the pops, because it is a plastic post I was getting rebounds and instead of dribbling down into the pops it comes back down the left orbit lane.

As referenced in this thread on several occasions, replacing the plastic post with a metal post should help with this issue

#5847 8 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Does the insult meter turn off the bleeped out curse words? My kids are almost 12 so it's not like they haven't heard those words but not something I want to promote either. I am mostly thinking of other kids or families that come over and want to play pinball. Although, nobody ever wants to play my pins so not sure if that should even be a concern.

i'm in the same boat as you. Even with everything set to as family friendly as possible, it still says thing like "nice frickin shot", or it will bleep out the actual words, depending on the phrase. I keep mine in my insulated garage with TWD, because I don't need my kids hearing it.

#5848 8 years ago
Quoted from gatordad:

Mystery scoop switch need to be bent slightly as it would kick out but not register the scoop shot
Second is the left orbit shot, when it hits the post that pops up it supposed to stop and dribble into the pops, because it is a plastic post I was getting rebounds and instead of dribbling down into the pops it comes back down the left orbit lane.
As referenced in this thread on several occasions, replacing the plastic post with a metal post should help with this issue

Do you mean right to left? As in counter clockwise? Thanks for the mystery scoop tip

#5849 8 years ago
Quoted from spandol:

i'm in the same boat as you. Even with everything set to as family friendly as possible, it still says thing like "nice frickin shot", or it will bleep out the actual words, depending on the phrase. I keep mine in my insulated garage with TWD, because I don't need my kids hearing it.

I tell my 11 year that I'll give 'em 5 bucks if they can get it to say a bad word. I guess one of us is doing it wrong!

#5850 8 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Does the insult meter turn off the bleeped out curse words? My kids are almost 12 so it's not like they haven't heard those words but not something I want to promote either. I am mostly thinking of other kids or families that come over and want to play pinball. Although, nobody ever wants to play my pins so not sure if that should even be a concern.

Yes, that is with adult turned off and insult set to low.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 1.49
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
Toys/Add-ons
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Baltimore, MD
$ 24.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 100.00
Playfield - Other
JuanSolo's modshop
Other
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Armor and blades
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
Other
$ 79.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Arcade Upkeep
Under cabinet
$ 25.50
From: $ 6.00
Playfield - Protection
SilverBall Designs
Protection
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 6.00
Playfield - Protection
Apron Envy
Protection
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
From: $ 129.95
Lighting - Interactive
Hookedonpinball.com
Interactive
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Other
From: $ 30.00
Lighting - Interactive
Pinball Z
Interactive
10,999
$ 19.95
Playfield - Protection
SilverBall Designs
Protection
$ 55.00
Gameroom - Decorations
The Flipper Room
Decorations
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 6.00
From: $ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 68.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 18.99
Tools
FlipMods
Tools
7,250
Machine - For Sale
Downers Grove, IL
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
9,400
Machine - For Sale
San Antonio, TX
$ 16.50
Lighting - Led
Lermods
Led
$ 24.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
There are 21,642 posts in this topic. You are on page 117 of 433.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread/page/117 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.