(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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#5701 3 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

Dirty Donny... The artist who did the backglass, cabinet and playfield Art.

Fking aussom

#5702 3 years ago
#5703 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballerchef:

What LEDs can you guys recommend on the four large inserts (the mode inserts)

Colors look a bit washed out on a cell phone, but I went with the cointaker 555 2-LED White Blue Red Orange.
20160118_092020_(resized).jpg

I also added a socket and bulb, so each insert has two bulbs. One near the top of the insert, one near the bottom.
20160118_093009_(resized).jpg

#5705 3 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Colors look a bit washed out on a cell phone, but I went with the cointaker 555 2-LED White Blue Red Orange.
20160118_092020_(resized).jpg
I also added a socket and bulb, so each insert has two bulbs. One near the top of the insert, one near the bottom.
20160118_093009_(resized).jpg

Ahhhhh ok nice. Two bulbs makes sense bc I've had 2 LED bulbs in there and it never lights up the inserts all the way....looks like crap. Thanks!!

#5706 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballerchef:

Ahhhhh ok nice. Two bulbs makes sense bc I've had 2 LED bulbs in there and it never lights up the inserts all the way....looks like crap. Thanks!!

I added these to the existing wiring. Fast and easy.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=886

#5707 3 years ago

If I had to do it today, I'd buy CT double flex headed leds and adjust them so the full insert is lit. But when I did this a year or more ago those weren't available...

I made a plastic that mounts to existing playfield holes for left and right sockets. Then it has a mount for each of the original sockets centered below the insert. Works great. Kind of a PITA to get right though.

20160118_122533_(resized).jpg

#5708 3 years ago

Most of my upgrades have arrived. Still waiting on my Cliffy's but other then that I'm done....for now. Lol. I'm going to get the color DMD but decided to let my bank account recover for a bit. So two things to get...Cliffy's and most importantly the game.

The anticipation is killing me.

20160118_125545_(resized).jpg

#5709 3 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Most of my upgrades have arrived. Still waiting on my Cliffy's but other then that I'm done....for now. Lol. I'm going to get the color DMD but decided to let my bank account recover for a bit. So two things to get...Cliffy's and most importantly the game.
The anticipation is killing me.

20160118_125545_(resized).jpg

Oh just wait till you hook up that sub with the Pinnovators board. Your neighbors are gonna call the cops.

#5710 3 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

If I had to do it today, I'd buy CT double flex headed leds and adjust them so the full insert is lit. But when I did this a year or more ago those weren't available...
I made a plastic that mounts to existing playfield holes for left and right sockets. Then it has a mount for each of the original sockets centered below the insert. Works great. Kind of a PITA to get right though.

20160118_122533_(resized).jpg

You should make and sell those. I'd buy one.

#5711 3 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Most of my upgrades have arrived.

Don't forget to play some pinball!

#5712 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Oh just wait till you hook up that sub with the Pinnovators board. Your neighbors are gonna call the cops.

Lol. My neighbors are kinda stuck up. Maybe when they hear it they will relax and will want their own.

#5713 3 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Don't forget to play some pinball!

Oh I won't. Been playing the crap out of my games. And I'm on the way to pinball petes to get my Metallica game on.

13
#5714 3 years ago

Had an epic game tonight. First ball (no extra balls used) over $300,000,000. All factory settings.

Ended up getting four horsemen and finished all 4 CIU modes. Did not get EOTL but there was nothing else I had not done. So much fun.. So intense. I had to share.

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

#5715 3 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Most of my upgrades have arrived. Still waiting on my Cliffy's but other then that I'm done....for now. Lol. I'm going to get the color DMD but decided to let my bank account recover for a bit. So two things to get...Cliffy's and most importantly the game.
The anticipation is killing me.

20160118_125545_(resized).jpg

Besides the big obvious stuff I can see, what else is on that table? Like the white tube, and the letters in the bag. Just curious. Might wanna get some Titan silicone rings, and toss the stock black rubber. Since I switched my playfield don't get so damn dirty quick. Enjoy your game.

#5716 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

BTW, I should have mentioned, I would just replace that magnet core.
$12, Pinball Life.
In fact, buy a few.
The one shown is beat to hell, and soon you are going to need to sand and buff it flat on a lathe or drill press or replace it anyway.
The damage will continue along the playfield edges if you do not.
I still recommend a Cliffy protector as well ($12 for a pair of protectors)
They are carbon fiber now (no magnet issues), easy to install (or remove), and worth a couple of bucks.
Looking closely at the photo reveals that the magnet core has been unlevel for a while due to edge "denting".

Curious what type of tool to remove the magnet core? Regular flat head screwdriver would seem to small.
Also, read about a ball Trough protector /demagnetizer. This really needed, and if so where to get one?
I still haven't addressed the back up/down post issue. Are you tightening that nut up real tight or just snug?
Also has anyone swapped out the skinny posts around the slingshot to star posts, and is it a good idea, or just leave them stock skinny ones?
I had to order 2 1/2 inch slingshot rubber, as the 2 inch ones were tearing at the ends on them skinny posts, anyone have this issue,? If so, does the slingshots have good bounce like with the 2 inch did? Should be getting them in a day or two from Titan. I haven't ordered the star posts yet, but if it's a good idea I will put them in my pinball life shopping cart as Iam putting an order together.

#5718 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Besides the big obvious stuff I can see, what else is on that table? Like the white tube, and the letters in the bag. Just curious. Might wanna get some Titan silicone rings, and toss the stock black rubber. Since I switched my playfield don't get so damn dirty quick. Enjoy your game.

The letters in the bag spell "Cliff" and go on the cross. The tube is actually mylar to put down on the edge of the playfield hole where the balls drian. Titan huh? It never ends does it? Lol. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into it.

#5719 3 years ago

Pay it forward opportunity!

I recently purchased a mystery hole protector (the one that Marco sells) and due to lack of reading I didn't realize it was for premium/LE only. My loss is your gain here? Do you have a premium/LE and want a protector? It's yours and I'll even cover shipping to the states (sorry northern neighbors)

Gone to JeffA ... hope you enjoy your Metallica Pin when it comes!

#5720 3 years ago
Quoted from sheetz_freak1:

Pay it forward opportunity!
I recently purchased a mystery hole protector (the one that Marco sells) and due to lack of reading I didn't realize it was for premium/LE only. My loss is your gain here? Do you have a premium/LE and want a protector? It's yours and I'll even cover shipping to the states (sorry northern neighbors)

Pretty cool of you. I have a pro coming for me. I'm sure someone would appreciate it.

#5721 3 years ago
Quoted from sheetz_freak1:

My loss is your gain here? Do you have a premium/LE and want a protector? It's yours and I'll even cover shipping to the states (sorry northern neighbors)

Got one on order and am looking to add basic protection immediately. Would appreciate this as a starting point. I'll cover shipping. PM'ing you now. Thanks!

#5722 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Curious what type of tool to remove the magnet core? Regular flat head screwdriver would seem to small.
Also, read about a ball Trough protector /demagnetizer. This really needed, and if so where to get one?
I still haven't addressed the back up/down post issue. Are you tightening that nut up real tight or just snug?
Also has anyone swapped out the skinny posts around the slingshot to star posts, and is it a good idea, or just leave them stock skinny ones?
I had to order 2 1/2 inch slingshot rubber, as the 2 inch ones were tearing at the ends on them skinny posts, anyone have this issue,? If so, does the slingshots have good bounce like with the 2 inch did? Should be getting them in a day or two from Titan. I haven't ordered the star posts yet, but if it's a good idea I will put them in my pinball life shopping cart as Iam putting an order together.

You loosen the large nut which holds the magnet core in place first with an adjustable wrench on the assembly. The rest will fall into place when you see it.

The trough shim is a modified BLY/WMS trough shim design made out of PETG. Pinbits used to make them as well, but you have to cut them down to fit Stern games, unless make your own like I do. It will not demagnetize balls, just keep them from sticking together in the trough the trough and give the trough extra protection.

I don't have issues with my replaced bell armature aasembly. I use a nylon lock nut instead of the factory lock washer type. I avoid the whole issue fairly simply. Use the "both side" nut approach if there is still slipping. It will not happen again.

I do not use star posts on my MET, I use the factory ones. If your sling rubbers are wearing quickly due to tension increasing to 2 1/2" rubber will help a small bit, along with reducing sensitivity activation. Keep in mind changing to star posts will change gameplay especially for things like bounce passes.

#5723 3 years ago

Can someone tell me where in the menu is the shaker test?

#5724 3 years ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

Can someone tell me where in the menu is the shaker test?

I thought that I saw it in the Coil Test section.

#5725 3 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Most of my upgrades have arrived. Still waiting on my Cliffy's but other then that I'm done....for now. Lol. I'm going to get the color DMD but decided to let my bank account recover for a bit. So two things to get...Cliffy's and most importantly the game.
The anticipation is killing me.

20160118_125545_(resized).jpg

Yeah, can I get a list of everything you have ordered here? I am waiting for mine to arrive as well and want to get ahead of the game on protection and upgrades as well!

#5726 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You scored 300,000,000 DOLLARS

He hit the Powerball mode jackpot I guess

#5727 3 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

The letters in the bag spell "Cliff" and go on the cross. The tube is actually mylar to put down on the edge of the playfield hole where the balls drian. Titan huh? It never ends does it? Lol. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into it.

For the mylar, are you talking about all the bare wood back in there and cover with the mylar, or just around the edges? Apron removal obviously correct? I have a few full sheets of mylar I could use I have had for awhile. Let me know the process to doing it.

14532448044492129752641_(resized).jpg

#5728 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Stern is not going to help you, this is not covered under warranty. Not sure what you expect them to do after over 8+ months of ownership? Are you trying to get a new PF? If so, that seems unlikely.

That's tough to say. I had a MET premium playfield replaced after 8 months of ownership. It was warped so that was a considerable defect. I would go through the distributor, not Stern. I went through Stern and it turned out to be a 5 month long hassle to get resolved.

Rob

#5729 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You scored 300,000,000 DOLLARS

You mean these numbers aren't dollars? What the hell is the point then? Lol

#5730 3 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

You mean these numbers aren't dollars? What the hell is the point then? Lol

#5731 3 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

That's tough to say. I had a MET premium playfield replaced after 8 months of ownership. It was warped so that was a considerable defect. I would go through the distributor, not Stern. I went through Stern and it turned out to be a 5 month long hassle to get resolved.
Rob

Good distributors will certainly help, and that new PF went well "above and beyond the call of duty".
Glad it worked out, although doing a swap out is still a PITA.
Stern is rare to react in these circumstances now.
Times have changed, and they generally will "feel" for an owner (might even give the owner a free door prize), but are required to do nothing.

#5732 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Good distributors will certainly help, and that new PF went well "above and beyond the call of duty".
Glad it worked out, although doing a swap out is still a PITA.
Stern is rare to react in these circumstances now.
Times have changed, and they generally will "feel" for an owner (might even give the owner a free door prize), but are required to do nothing.

Well, I do believe the new playfield was warranted. The playfield was twisted diagonally front to back which affected gameplay and also how the playfield sat in the cabinet. If we tried to adjust the levelling, the playfield would jam in place and could not be pulled out. Stern didn't have any populated playfields to swap it with so I sent my playfield back and they moved everything over to a new playfield for me. Yes, I do appreciate that they replaced the playfield for me. There was another person with a MET pro who had his playfield replaced because of significant paint chipping around the sparky magnet. Much worse than what the other person posted and that I replied to. I saw a picture of another MET playfield where the surrounding magnet area significantly sunk in, but I don't think that guy had any luck getting a replacement.

Rob

#5733 3 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Yes I did shut the game down with the coin door open, I had no idea I thought it was very odd that the sparky coil locked up like that. Any one know what transistor on the main board I should be looking at, also am I gunna need to get a whole new board? My board repair skills are not real strong.

Update I replaced my Q27 transistor with the help of an awesome Pinsider (thanks Markmon!) I then installed the sparky coil kit with upgraded driver board (thanks JJ & Chas) and I am back in action... no more sparky coil lock ups for this METLE

image_(resized).jpeg

#5734 3 years ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

Yeah, can I get a list of everything you have ordered here? I am waiting for mine to arrive as well and want to get ahead of the game on protection and upgrades as well!

No problem. Sorry I don't have the website links.

Shooter lane, drop switch roll overs and mystery scoop... Cliffy's

Plastic protectors...from Marco and sparky from Rickwh.

Mylar for magnets, buttons...pinball life

New balls...pinball life

Shaker....pinball life

Sub...amazon

Sub hook up kit...pinnovators

Gels for fuel...mezel mods

Target splints...mezel mods

Snake fangs...mezel mods

Snake tongue sticker...mexel mods

"Cliff" for grave marker...pinball life

#5735 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

For the mylar, are you talking about all the bare wood back in there and cover with the mylar, or just around the edges? Apron removal obviously correct? I have a few full sheets of mylar I could use I have had for awhile. Let me know the process to doing it.

14532448044492129752641_(resized).jpg

Yes, thats another spot I hope to protect. Over kill? Maybe, but I'm ok with the extra precaution

#5737 3 years ago

After losing magnet due to a blown fuse I replaced and it was fine for a month or so, then it blew again, replaced and blew straight away. I thought I had installed an incorrect fuse or a bad batch of fuses or something. Anyway after consulting the wealth of information on pinside I found info regarding the "upgraded replacement magnet control board" that someone posted up a pic of the two side by side 2 years ago.
My question is this, if two years ago Stern starts replacing peoples MCB's and magnets in most cases then why are they still using the older boards in the most current runs of Metallica's? My supplier has the new parts for me and explained that it's a "known" problem so the question remains the same, why? Even if you had surplus supplies of the old stock doesn't it cost more to keep replacing them?

#5738 3 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Whats your take on the green plastic protectors

I got these green/yellow protectors and fitted them to both the slingshots and ball return on my Prem. IMHO the slingshots lit up that area too much and you lost the colour changing, they work great in the ball returns though and provide just enough light in that area without ruining the colour effects.

My Met is currently undergoing the final stages of its' refurb/modding so I can't take any pics yet but will be sure to do so once Sparky returns and it is all back together.

#5739 3 years ago

I may as well put something in here as it's a double posting.
Mods/additions I have made, or in the process of adding

Completed:
Invisiglass - 2nd best thing ever
Colour DMD - Best thing ever
Metallica cut out back box hinges
Metallica cut out / lollipop side rails (with glossy snake skin effect in cutouts)
Snake fangs
Snake tongue decal
Snake body plastic and ramp decal
Changed all rubbers to clear
Interactive colour speaker grill lights (Flashes green when snake lit, Blue for Sparky & Red for bumpers)
Green outlane protectors
Lit flipper buttons
Replaced cube with newton ball
Creeping Death Backbox decal
Creeping Death Pinblades
UV Flashers in front of Sparky

To come:
UV LED strip lighting down both internal sides and under backbox
Sparky custom paint incorporating UV paint and varnish
Snake head painted with UV paint
Colour LED lighting behind backbox to match the speakers

Possibly:
Following on from another posters suggestion, making a silhouette cutout to go behind the rear flashers so only the lightning strikes flash

Ideas wanted:
Looking for something to cover/replace/add to the clear plastic ball guard near the right hand ramp?

#5740 3 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Update I replaced my Q27 transistor with the help of an awesome Pinsider (thanks Markmon!) I then installed the sparky coil kit with upgraded driver board (thanks JJ & Chas) and I am back in action... no more sparky coil lock ups for this METLE
image_(resized).jpeg

So if my game is from the new run (11/2015), it should have an updated board and this sparky lock up is a non issue? I have been so paranoid after reading about it.

#5741 3 years ago

In regards to the back stop flashers. I bought flex head CT flashers so that I could aim the light to the appropriate places in the artwork.

Blue. White. Blue. Blue. White. Blue

Looks great!

#5742 3 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

In regards to the back stop flashers. I bought flex head CT flashers so that I could aim the light to the appropriate places in the artwork.
Blue. White. Blue. Blue. White. Blue
Looks great!

Would like to see that Rick, any pictures or a video perhaps?

#5743 3 years ago
Quoted from Ball_Shine:

After losing magnet due to a blown fuse I replaced and it was fine for a month or so, then it blew again, replaced and blew straight away. I thought I had installed an incorrect fuse or a bad batch of fuses or something. Anyway after consulting the wealth of information on pinside I found info regarding the "upgraded replacement magnet control board" that someone posted up a pic of the two side by side 2 years ago.
My question is this, if two years ago Stern starts replacing peoples MCB's and magnets in most cases then why are they still using the older boards in the most current runs of Metallica's? My supplier has the new parts for me and explained that it's a "known" problem so the question remains the same, why? Even if you had surplus supplies of the old stock doesn't it cost more to keep replacing them?

Three reasons not considered.
I am not going to make an assumption whether you actually have the new board or the old one, as you stated you reviewed documentation.

One, you may have a SHORTED or partially short magnet core assembly, or some type of wiring short in the playfield.
Although rare, as it stands right now, it can happen even even with NIB games.

Two, it may not be the magnet board itself, there could be a short or problem on the power driver board assembly.
Did you conduct any testing at all, or just keep throwing fuses into the game hoping the problem goes away?
The same problem occured with LOTR "one ring" magnet, 12 years ago, and owners reported the same types of problems, but never tested anything. This is part of the reason I use in line fuse protection on all magnet assemblies to identify and potentially head off these types of problem, which owners say "why is that needed? This is overkill" initially. Now, you have an example. I can figure out if it is the magnet assembly, magnet board, or PDB fairly quickly.

Three, mistakes happen at the factory, and an old board might have been installed.
It happens, even if the game is two years old in design. People make mistakes.
Assumptions were made.
They still use the same "parts bins", and not every assembly technician is going to know the difference.
Heck, they might not even know there is an upgraded board (although they "should") or even were working for Stern when the game was originally released.
The same thing goes for power driver boards, but is an easier "quality control check".

Personally, I would take a closer looker at your game, before installing the new magnet board first.
TEST transistors and your voltages.
If there is anything I know about Stern right now, it is that their QC at times is suspect.
It just is not as good as it used to nearly 10 years ago, and is a by product of changes of personnel for part reasons.

QA is generally pretty good (parts supply and acquisition), but should not be applied to things like game design problems.

#5744 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

So if my game is from the new run (11/2015), it should have an updated board and this sparky lock up is a non issue? I have been so paranoid after reading about it.

It is not entirely related to the power driver board.

To my knowledge this problem has never been directly addressed by Stern.
I am unsure if a code change in software could be added to disengage this specific coil function either as I am not a programmer.
It has nothing to do with the step up voltage board either which remained unchanged from the original production run.

It is a game design issue because the Sparky relay coil is a low voltage activation, not high power.
Basically, the owner in Oregon replaced all the potentially damaged or damaged components, but nothing is preventing it from occurring again if he shuts the game down with the coin door open.
If you catch the mistake quickly you can avoid the "transistor burn out".

If Stern has decided to fix the problem, anyone feel to correct me as it going on 2+ years unresolved.
I have found the best way to avoid this particular problem when doing maintenance on the game is to use a SAM wireless remote control for functions, while allowing the coin door to remain CLOSED.
Keep in mind, I am conscience of high voltage functions of the game, and shut the game down when required.

You are conscious and aware of the problem, therefore you can avoid it.

#5745 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Would like to see that Rick, any pictures or a video perhaps?

Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Would like to see that Rick, any pictures or a video perhaps?

Sure. I'll take some pics.

#5746 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

It is not entirely related to the power driver board.
To my knowledge this problem has never been directly addressed by Stern.
I am unsure if a code change in software could be added to disengage this specific coil function either as I am not a programmer.
It has nothing to do with the step up voltage board either which remained unchanged from the original production run.
It is a game design issue because the Sparky relay coil is a low voltage activation, not high power.
Basically, the owner in Oregon replaced all the potentially damaged or damaged components, but nothing is preventing it from occurring again if he shuts the game down with the coin door open.
If you catch the mistake quickly you can avoid the "transistor burn out".
If Stern has decided to fix the problem, anyone feel to correct me as it going on 2+ years unresolved.
I have found the best way to avoid this particular problem when doing maintenance on the game is to use a SAM wireless remote control for functions, while allowing the coin door to remain CLOSED.
Keep in mind, I am conscience of high voltage functions of the game, and shut the game down when required.
You are conscious and aware of the problem, therefore you can avoid it.

But what if that day I'm unconscious?
Thanks, I will remain paranoid then....I always power that one down first, then open coin door, then close it up before powering on.

#5747 3 years ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

Ideas wanted:
Looking for something to cover/replace/add to the clear plastic ball guard near the right hand ramp?

I think a VU audio bargraph type meter would look great there.
Maybe something like this:

VU_(resized).jpg

#5748 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Oh just wait till you hook up that sub with the Pinnovators board. Your neighbors are gonna call the cops.

I just hooked one up and wasn't that impressed myself - I think hooking up to the cabinet speaker was just as good soundwise. Also, now there is an annoying "thump" sound when the machine is powered off. I'm using a Sony sub - not a Polk, but not sure how that might make a difference.

#5749 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

So if my game is from the new run (11/2015), it should have an updated board and this sparky lock up is a non issue? I have been so paranoid after reading about it.

Look at your sparky driver board, if it looks like the one in my picture below you should be good. The board is different from the original design also the harness has orange and black wires that tie the driver board into the sparky flasher circuit.

Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

It is not entirely related to the power driver board.
To my knowledge this problem has never been directly addressed by Stern.
I am unsure if a code change in software could be added to disengage this specific coil function either as I am not a programmer.
It has nothing to do with the step up voltage board either which remained unchanged from the original production run.
It is a game design issue because the Sparky relay coil is a low voltage activation, not high power.
Basically, the owner in Oregon replaced all the potentially damaged or damaged components, but nothing is preventing it from occurring again if he shuts the game down with the coin door open.
If you catch the mistake quickly you can avoid the "transistor burn out".
If Stern has decided to fix the problem, anyone feel to correct me as it going on 2+ years unresolved.
.

Actually I believe that the new driver board fixes the problem, note that the sparky flashers now T into the new driver board. It appears that the flashers (which are dissabled when the coin door is open) now send a signal to the sparky driver board to shut off when the coin door opens. Compare the pic below to the sparky driver in your machine and you will see what I mean.

image_(resized).jpeg

#5750 3 years ago

Thank you, I will look for that and check it out.

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