(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 17,204 posts
  • 960 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by MustangPaul
  • Topic is favorited by 369 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 2,947 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

LED-lights-metallica-bottom (resized).jpg
MET MDM2 (resized).jpg
MDM V2 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200121_210219 (resized).jpg
AD7C5EAA-16FB-4FEE-AA98-7714687D0538 (resized).jpeg
AD43465E-F523-4444-AAF5-8EF60E341772 (resized).jpeg
EBFC9F4E-6334-49DF-9FAE-9F4546D2FA26 (resized).jpeg
C983082E-5120-4A3C-9B68-EB491421D7E7 (resized).jpeg
3508fb180bb5eddd6ce77b68e97d976e00ff52fd.jpeg (resized).jpg
EF82459E-3D35-4C2F-A1A4-D5A5AF738B5B (resized).jpeg
12F2F3CA-9A84-4A07-8498-CDFCAD6BB449 (resized).jpeg
BDAA4093-FC41-4AF3-98C0-C8F4AFE06BC5 (resized).jpeg
5B2DBA3D-D33B-4FA3-B478-0C8902164D28.jpeg
08A2353A-227F-4471-B644-99250F8CD1ED (resized).jpeg
EE77AE9B-F9D2-4417-95C1-487A0003B0A6 (resized).jpeg
C2778CF1-BE72-4435-A7A3-956014D956D6 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 17204 posts in this topic. You are on page 114 of 345.
#5651 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Thanks
So are the pick targets collected carried over to the next ball?
Also you say completing 2 cycles lights the first band member, then 3 cycles (meaning 5 total) cycles for the second and so on?
That'd be 15 total cycles to get all for correct?
Good tip about the grave marker shot.

A complete cycle is carried over, not part ones.

2+3+4+5=14

#5652 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

So are the pick targets collected carried over to the next ball? I mean partial or completed cycles?
Also you say completing 2 cycles lights the first band member, then 3 cycles (meaning 5 total) cycles for the second and so on?

FYI - There is an adjustment to allow for partial pick carry over, and an adjustment to reduce/increase the starting completion cycles for the first band member. Both adjustments can make it a bit easier to see Blackened (it's still rare if you do change it)

#5653 4 years ago
Quoted from Purpledrilmonkey:

FYI - There is an adjustment to allow for partial pick carry over, and an adjustment to reduce/increase the starting completion cycles for the first band member. Both adjustments can make it a bit easier to see Blackened (it's still rare if you do change it)

Quoted from WJxxxx:

A complete cycle is carried over, not part ones.
2+3+4+5=14

Thanks.

#5654 4 years ago

I set mine to carry over between balls personally.

#5655 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I set mine to carry over between balls personally.

I'm debating that as well, not sure

#5656 4 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED has started chipping/peeling Seem like I read that others had this problem as well. I haven't contacted Stern yet. I just purchased this in May 2015.

BTW, I should have mentioned, I would just replace that magnet core.
$12, Pinball Life.
In fact, buy a few.
The one shown is beat to hell, and soon you are going to need to sand and buff it flat on a lathe or drill press or replace it anyway.
The damage will continue along the playfield edges if you do not.
I still recommend a Cliffy protector as well ($12 for a pair of protectors)
They are carbon fiber now (no magnet issues), easy to install (or remove), and worth a couple of bucks.

Looking closely at the photo reveals that the magnet core has been unlevel for a while due to edge "denting".

12
#5657 4 years ago

I finally beat End Of The Line! It was my second time getting there but this time I didn't die while in it. It started out with a 2 ball multi ball and I had to hit every shot on the playfield once with a timer counting down. I drained one of the balls but then completed every shot and the dmd shows a car jumping a canyon for I believe 5 or 10 mil and another ball gets thrown out for 2 ball multi and timer resets and you gotta keep trying to do that over and over except the timer ran out on me the second time. Then the game starts all over from the beginning. Only ended up getting 18 mil outta it but it was so satisfying beating the game. Ended up just over 600 mil for high score #3 on my machine.

#5658 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

BTW, I should have mentioned, I would just replace that magnet core.
$12, Pinball Life.
In fact, buy a few.
The one shown is beat to hell, and soon you are going to need to sand and buff it flat on a lathe or drill press or replace it anyway.
The damage will continue along the playfield edges if you do not.
I still recommend a Cliffy protector as well ($12 for a pair of protectors)
They are carbon fiber now (no magnet issues), easy to install (or remove), and worth a couple of bucks.
Looking closely at the photo reveals that the magnet core has been unlevel for a while due to edge "denting".

Is this just on the pro ? I have a prem

#5659 4 years ago

Got Smart DMD running in my Met Pro. I couldn't be happier. Cheap(er) and it was an easier financial pill to swallow one piece at a time (got a couple of parts for christmas too! )

Any do-it-yourself type people out there, go for it. It was fun.

How it ended up mounting
20160115_211901_(resized).jpg
20160115_211859_(resized).jpg

#5660 4 years ago

Don't bother with trying to stack hurry-ups. Far too often you'll get the shot lit up and flashing but not collect at the captive ball before draining and then all that work for nothing. Concentrate on completing one shot at a time and definitely start with the cross. Then you will also make progress toward Graveyard MB. Next I like to try to complete the ramps. If you can combo the ramps and you have one or both completed, you can make very fast progress towards CIU. As for CIU, if I'm playing a premium/LE, I go for Fade to Black, then For Whom, then Enter Sandman, then Sparky. If I'm playing a pro, I'll start with For Whom, then either FTB or Sandman, then Sparky. The main difference is the spinners. FTB has switch hit driven jackpots so the spinners are your friend. On a pro without spinners, in FWTBT you can combo ramps to get quick points before you change over to the orbits and graveyard.

One other overall strategy for all CIU modes. Don't worry too much about trying to get the four main shots to light the collect scoop. That's a great way to have a 2-5m crank it up mode! Get some jackpot shots right away so that if you drain quickly you'll still have some decent points out of your CIU mode.

#5661 4 years ago

I read your guys posts and doubt I'll ever be that good haha.

#5662 4 years ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

A complete cycle is carried over, not part ones.
2+3+4+5=14

56 hits to 'flashing' stand ups

#5663 4 years ago

Ok, tried to add Mezel's hammer light mod, bit cannot figure out the lamp # to test it- either that, or it isn't working (coffin either on Met Prem). Anyone know the lamp number to check?

#5664 4 years ago

Never mind, it works- I just started it up.

#5665 4 years ago

We just made it to End of the Line on our game twice this week.
I say we, (My son did it both times). lol
Anyway loved the DMD animation with the dice dangling from the rear view. looked awesome in color.
Both games ended up at 970 Million.
Oh so close the the billion mark twice.

#5666 4 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Is this just on the pro ? I have a prem

"Standard" threaded magnet core plugs are the same on both MET versions, and all other Stern games that use them up to this time.
Stern part no. #530-5320-00 or 530-5320-01.

Alternatively, you can buy the whole assembly, but the coil magnets are not generally an issue, unless they burn due to transistor lock on.

This same core is used on many WMS/BLY "fixed" magnets as well.

The "disappearing" magnet core is different on the MET LE, as that is larger and is part of a different assembly.

#5667 4 years ago

I'm going to admit it. My main exposure to Metallica music has been The Black album, of course I've heard some other songs or videos like 'One' etc.. But not really too much of the rest, especially the early stuff like 'Kill em all'. I just ordered 4 CDs MOP, AJFA, Kill em all and RTL. 4 new CDs for $27 from Amazon.

I'm an old fart so I still buy CDs and think I'll enjoy the pin more as I learn the the songs, on the pin with pinball mono sound is not the greatest platform to listen to music details.

'The Four Horseman' will replace 'One' as someone suggested, I know 'One' is a great song but just not really ideal IMO as I prefer faster songs for the pinball.

#5668 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

'The Four Horseman' will replace 'One' as someone suggested, I know 'One' is a great song but just not really ideal IMO as I prefer faster songs for the pinball.

I agree with the faster song part, sometimes it seems like it takes forever for it to get going, but this is gonna jack up lady justice mode so for me it's a no no.

#5669 4 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

I agree with the faster song part, sometimes it seems like it takes forever for it to get going, but this is gonna jack up lady justice mode so for me it's a no no.

Put "And Justice For All" in there. It works perfectly.

#5670 4 years ago

Can anybody help with LED colors for Metallica? I have the LED version but all the white bulbs need some changing.
What ideas do you have for color schemes / bulbs that were replaced? Send me a link if its easier. Thanks.

#5671 4 years ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

Can anybody help with LED colors for Metallica? I have the LED version but all the white bulbs need some changing.
What ideas do you have for color schemes / bulbs that were replaced? Send me a link if its easier. Thanks.

Oh man your not gonna color bomb it are ya.

#5672 4 years ago

Are you suggesting to leave it alone? Thought a few color accents would help. Not really looking to change everything.

#5673 4 years ago

Well if you start going to crazy with the colors you loose the great artwork on the plastics and playfield. I like the clear whites in the inserts because #1, it helps you see what they say and #2, I like the "sparkle" of the inserts facets. I just took most of the colored leds out of the inserts on the Batman Forever I just bought and the inserts really pop now, to me it makes the game look more modern. But everyone has there own tastes so go with what ya like.

#5674 4 years ago

I agree. I guess I was looking more towards GI....just some colored accent lighting. Someday I would like to do the light show mod. Thanks for the input. One of my all time favorites!

#5675 4 years ago

Fade to black is aussom the whole pin went black then just blue haha cheers this pin kicks assssss

#5676 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Well if you start going to crazy with the colors you loose the great artwork on the plastics and playfield. I like the clear whites in the inserts because #1, it helps you see what they say and #2, I like the "sparkle" of the inserts facets. I just took most of the colored leds out of the inserts on the Batman Forever I just bought and the inserts really pop now, to me it makes the game look more modern. But everyone has there own tastes so go with what ya like.

Whats your take on the green plastic protectors

#5677 4 years ago

My Snake Jaw problem just went from bad to worse. Even after adjusting the switch and getting it to work, it completely stopped registering the ball sitting in the Snakes mouth, so it won't light up letters for Snake multi ball, and it sits there until the ball finder process kicks in. Sucks, especially for a less than one month old NIB game - which has needed quite a few fixes so far.

My question is regarding the switch. It needs to be replaced- but it looks like a huge pain to access the tiny bolts (for which I don't even have the right tools to make it work) that are needed to remove the switch. It also looks like the switch will need to be soldered. When I originally called Stern they told me they would send me a brand new switch. Cool, thanks for the $2 part.. but I'm not really comfortable replacing it myself.. does Stern have some type of warranty for brand new games where they will reimburse me for repair work or have an authorized shop send someone out to replace this thing?

Also, any settings to disable the snake's jaw from opening so the ball won't go in there anymore? I want to be able to play it without the ball getting stuck in its throat, just until I get the switch issue sorted out. Thanks!!

#5678 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

My Snake Jaw problem just went from bad to worse. Even after adjusting the switch and getting it to work, it completely stopped registering the ball sitting in the Snakes mouth, so it won't light up letters for Snake multi ball, and it sits there until the ball finder process kicks in. Sucks, especially for a less than one month old NIB game - which has needed quite a few fixes so far.
My question is regarding the switch. It needs to be replaced- but it looks like a huge pain to access the tiny bolts (for which I don't even have the right tools to make it work) that are needed to remove the switch. It also looks like the switch will need to be soldered. When I originally called Stern they told me they would send me a brand new switch. Cool, thanks for the $2 part.. but I'm not really comfortable replacing it myself.. does Stern have some type of warranty for brand new games where they will reimburse me for repair work or have an authorized shop send someone out to replace this thing?
Also, any settings to disable the snake's jaw from opening so the ball won't go in there anymore? I want to be able to play it without the ball getting stuck in its throat, just until I get the switch issue sorted out. Thanks!!

If I going to assume right now when you activate the switch (you will here a slight *click*) nothing registers in the switch test...

If you feel uncomfortable changing the switch (miniature sim roller, #180-5209-00), do you have any other nearby pinheads?
This should take around 10-15 minutes to do properly with a inexpensive solder iron (temperature controlled with proper tip is greatly preferred) and the proper size silver-tin solder (60/40 composition).
This actually is a very common requirements with all pinball machines, regardless of age.
I seriously doubt this was a shorted switch, bad diode, or board issue based on the age of the machine, but it sometimes does happen.

You need a hexnut driver set to remove the switch after looking at the schematics.
A required investment if you plan to maintain a growing collection.
The hexnut driver size is one of the smallest, 7/32" I believe, but I would have to check, as they are same hex machine screws (2-56 X 1/2") as many of the other playfield switches underneath the playfield.
You may be fortunate and Stern could be sending the switch with diode and harness for "plug and play".

If not, you will need either a 1N4001, 1N4004, or 1N4007 diode after receiving the switch.
The last two are used for coils with voltages, but all will work.

1) Remove the switch wire harness off the Snake Assembly with the nut driver and unplug it from the molex connectors on the machine. Clip any necessary plastic zip ties and be careful to NOT cut the wires.
2) Clip or desolder the wires on a bench or table with wire cutters, while making note of the location of the polarity (NC, NO, and common) and positions of the wires and diode on the old switch.
THIS IS IMPORTANT!
Do not reverse of the orientations the diode or wires, or the switch will not work.
The diode is critical to prevent back signal and confusion within the switch matrix.
You do not want to have to resolder the switch again as it is a slight pain in the a$$ once you flow the solder and you do not have a desolder station or "cheap" Radio Shack desolder iron.
3) Make sure you do not lose the "fish paper" between the switch and mount when removing the switch which protects from intermittent contacts if one is there. Otherwise, just do not lose the tiny switch mounting plate which definitely will be there.
4) Restrip the wires, and make tiny "hooks" on the wires to attach onto the switch.
5) Mount the new diode through the tiny holes in the switch and bend the diode leads to keep them away from other electrical contacts.
6) TEST the switch with harness with the game ON (no mounting), but high power disengaged by a quick connect on the machine.
7) Disconnect the harness again
8 ) Solder the switch harness on a bench and use HEAT SINKS to avoid damaging the switch or new diode.
9) Reassemble the switch on the Snake Assembly, and tie on new zip ties.
10) Have fun!

If I was in your area (I have no idea as your profile is unknown), I would just do the whole thing for you for FREE, that is why SOMEBODY here, on RGP, or locally should be able to help you.
If you choose to do this yourself, I recommend you practice your skills on electronic "green boards" from RadioShack and a few cheap leads and parts first.
Might be a good time to get your "feet wet" on basic maintenance.

#5679 4 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Whats your take on the green plastic protectors

For interest, the FULL fluorescent green set (with "piston" dress slings) from Pinbits:

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_74&products_id=632&zenid=a0ac5a4ef11fe3b0dedb97e50c9620d8

They look fantastic whether the game is being played or not.
The LEDs are very well accented when changing colors, and fit the game colors superbly.
I use a different color protector for Sparky in fluorescent orange (not yellow with the "kit") with the "spiderwebs" and several others protectors that were specially made for my game.
The protectors themselves are VERY THICK, so some adjustments need to made to the game to install properly in some cases.
Thin nylon locknuts do make it easier to install them, but you need to be careful or you can damage them as they are not PETG.
The etchings require a little extra work to get the protective paper out of the grooves.
Also finger prints are going to show up with if you are not playing attention.

For example using the cemetery sign, requires new hex standoffs to raise the arch and not strip the screws.
I actually bought a second full protector set as spares, because they are so damn good.

This will be a part of my photo posting, once I get around to finishing the photos and video of the modifications.
I still need to finish the topper interactive lighting corrections, and at some point installing my spare custom Sparky.
Everything else is done now.

#5680 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

If I going to assume right now when you activate the switch (you will here a slight *click*) nothing registers in the switch test...
If you feel uncomfortable changing the switch (miniature sim roller, #180-5209-00), do you have any other nearby pinheads?
This should take around 10-15 minutes to do properly with a inexpensive solder iron (temperature controlled with proper tip is greatly preferred) and the proper size silver-tin solder (60/40 composition).
This actually is a very common requirements with all pinball machines, regardless of age.
I seriously doubt this was a shorted switch, bad diode, or board issue based on the age of the machine, but it sometimes does happen.
You need a hexnut driver set to remove the switch after looking at the schematics.
A required investment if you plan to maintain a growing collection.
The hexnut driver size is one of the smallest, 7/32" I believe, but I would have to check, as they are same hex machine screws (2-56 X 1/2") as many of the other playfield switches underneath the playfield.
You may be fortunate and Stern could be sending the switch with diode and harness for "plug and play".
If not, you will need either a 1N4001, 1N4004, or 1N4007 diode after receiving the switch.
The last two are used for coils with voltages, but all will work.
1) Remove the switch wire harness off the Snake Assembly with the nut driver and unplug it from the molex connectors on the machine. Clip any necessary plastic zip ties and be careful to NOT cut the wires.
2) Clip or desolder the wires on a bench or table with wire cutters, while making note of the location of the polarity (NC, NO, and common) and positions of the wires and diode on the old switch.
THIS IS IMPORTANT!
Do not reverse of the orientations the diode or wires, or the switch will not work.
The diode is critical to prevent back signal and confusion within the switch matrix.
You do not want to have to resolder the switch again as it is a slight pain in the a$$ once you flow the solder and you do not have a desolder station or "cheap" Radio Shack desolder iron.
3) Make sure you do not lose the "fish paper" between the switch and mount when removing the switch which protects from intermittent contacts if one is there. Otherwise, just do not lose the tiny switch mounting plate which definitely will be there.
4) Restrip the wires, and make tiny "hooks" on the wires to attach onto the switch.
5) Mount the new diode through the tiny holes in the switch and bend the diode leads to keep them away from other electrical contacts.
6) TEST the switch with harness with the game ON (no mounting), but high power disengaged by a quick connect on the machine.
7) Disconnect the harness again
8 ) Solder the switch harness on a bench and use HEAT SINKS to avoid damaging the switch or new diode.
9) Reassemble the switch on the Snake Assembly, and tie on new zip ties.
10) Have fun!
If I was in your area (I have no idea as your profile is unknown), I would just do the whole thing for you for FREE, that is why SOMEBODY here, on RGP, or locally should be able to help you.
If you choose to do this yourself, I recommend you practice your skills on electronic "green boards" from RadioShack and a few cheap leads and parts first.
Might be a good time to get your "feet wet" on basic maintenance.

I have to say, your detailed responses and info on this thread is invaluable to Pinside- I'm blown away by the detail you go through in your replies here- thank you for this !!!! Awesome info, and very very thorough.

I'm in South Orange County here in CA, I don't know any other pinheads unfortunately. If someone has a recommendation for a repair person who isn't too expensive, let me know- or if you're close by and willing to help I'm down for that too

The main issue is how to access those hex nuts. I think you need precision hex drivers, but unless you have a socket for a ratchet, it appears you need to disassemble some stuff in order to get a hex nut driver in there to remove the switch. It would probably be wiser for me to watch someone do this initially so I can feel comfortable tinkering and repairing with this type of repair in the future.

Any recommendations for a soldering iron on Amazon? I have one but it's not temperature controlled and does not allow for interchangeable tips. Thanks so much !!!

#5681 4 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Whats your take on the green plastic protectors

I like them and what I and a few others have done make the out lane protectors look even better. The out lane plastics have an eyeball on them and with the green protectors on the eyeball color looks weird so what we did was drill a hole in the protectors the same size as the eyeball. That lets the white outlane light light up the eyeball in a natural color instead of an odd greenish color. It's easy to do but take your time and measure accurately and you'll be fine. If you have a drill press all the better.

#5682 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I like them and what I and a few others have done make the out lane protectors look even better. The out lane plastics have an eyeball on them and with the green protectors on the eyeball color looks weird so what we did was drill a hole in the protectors the same size as the eyeball. That lets the white outlane light light up the eyeball in a natural color instead of an odd greenish color. It's easy to do but take your time and measure accurately and you'll be fine. If you have a drill press all the better.

Thanks paul

#5683 4 years ago

So this happened to me last night.. I think I had a few things stacked and I had a four ball multiball... I ended up with hitting one by one up there... Once they were all magnetized and I had nothing left to hit the game went into ball search.. Finally I gave the game a shake to free them up.

image_(resized).jpg

image_(resized).jpg

#5684 4 years ago
Quoted from lllvjr:

So this happened to me last night.. I think I had a few things stacked and I had a four ball multiball... I ended up with hitting one by one up there... Once they were all magnetized and I had nothing left to hit the game went into ball search.. Finally I gave the game a shake to free them up.

"A Blessing and a Curse", nothing you can do about it, but you grabbed your camera for a memory!
It might be time to change your pinballs!

#5685 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I have to say, your detailed responses and info on this thread is invaluable to Pinside- I'm blown away by the detail you go through in your replies here- thank you for this !!!! Awesome info, and very very thorough.
I'm in South Orange County here in CA, I don't know any other pinheads unfortunately. If someone has a recommendation for a repair person who isn't too expensive, let me know- or if you're close by and willing to help I'm down for that too
The main issue is how to access those hex nuts. I think you need precision hex drivers, but unless you have a socket for a ratchet, it appears you need to disassemble some stuff in order to get a hex nut driver in there to remove the switch. It would probably be wiser for me to watch someone do this initially so I can feel comfortable tinkering and repairing with this type of repair in the future.
Any recommendations for a soldering iron on Amazon? I have one but it's not temperature controlled and does not allow for interchangeable tips. Thanks so much !!!

If its not directly accessible (I need to pull up my PF to examine the physical clearances adjacent to other assemblies), you would need to "drop the assembly" out of the lower PF to remove the switch while disconnecting the MOLEXs. However, I do not believe that is required here based on examination of the schematics. It also makes NO SENSE from a Stern maintenance technician design standpoint (which is not always logical in ANY pinball machine anyway). You most likely just need a normal length hex nut driver or an extension angle socket. The "stubby" drivers are not going to make easier in this case. I think it may be time to "discover" some more secrets on the underside of your playfield for yourself, as you are not going to break anything if you are careful.

Solder station recommendation?

Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station

amazon.com link »

Good investment and if properly maintained, will last a long time.
A cost effective alternative to high end models, more portable, and less ridiculously expensive.
Buy extra tips!

#5686 4 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

I agree with the faster song part, sometimes it seems like it takes forever for it to get going, but this is gonna jack up lady justice mode so for me it's a no no.

Quoted from Hougie:

Put "And Justice For All" in there. It works perfectly.

I agree with Hougie. Lady Justice mode starts with the final two minutes of "One." The final two minutes of "And Justice For All" is perfect for this mode because it begins to slow the pace as the mode is winding down. I used AJFA as a replacement for "One" for a while, but then I tried something different where I still get the final 2 mins of AJFA on Lady Justice mode (see notes below).

Over the last 2 1/2 years, I've posted my different song changes a few times, but I know there are a lot of new owners, so here they are again, including my reasoning:

Four Horsemen (Removed the original Ride the Lightening, but brought it back in a different spot).

Ride the Lightening (removed Creeping Death; plays RTL from the beginning during Sparky MB instead of the middle; I hated that RTL didn't start from the beginning during multiball, and it's a much better build-up during the "electrocution").

Enter Sandman (louder version)

My Apocolypse, and then it fades into the last two minutes of ...And Justice For All (removed One; During Lady Justice ramp mode, it will play the last two minutes of AJFA, which provides an awesome pace and starts to slow as the mode comes to an end; If I choose "My Apocolypse" during gameplay, it will fade out and fade into AJFA for the remainder of the song).

Am I Evil? (removed Sad But True; AIE? plays during Snake MB)

Shortest Straw (removed Unforgiven; SS plays a short riff at the end of the game)

The rest of the songs are unchanged.

Battery (no change; Crank It Up mode)

Blackened (no change; Band member mode)

Fade to Black (no change; Crank It Up mode)

For Whom the Bell Tolls (no change; Coffin MB)

Fuel (no change; Fuel mode)

Master of Puppets (no change; Graveyard MB)

Seek and Destroy (no change; S&D mode)

End of the Line (no change; not a choice at beginning of game, only wizard mode)

A random call out during the snake vomit match feature: my daughter saying in a worried voice, "Mommy, what happened to Fluffy?" (a slight homage to the end of the song Breadfan where the creepy voice says, "Mommy, where's Fluffy?" I tried to use that actual sound byte, but it's way too long for any of the call out slots for match).

A random call out during attract mode when the flipper button is pressed: Enter Sandman riff with my daughter saying, "Now I lay me down to sleep."

#5687 4 years ago

In case anyone was wondering what the Dirty Donny blacklight painted Sparky looks like with the UV/blacklight flashers installed... It is much darker than the bright white flashers but the effect is kinda cool and his brains really GLOW.

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

#5688 4 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

My Apocolypse, and then it fades into the last two minutes of ...And Justice For All (removed One; During Lady Justice ramp mode, it will play the last two minutes of AJFA, which provides an awesome pace and starts to slow as the mode comes to an end; If I choose "My Apocolypse" during gameplay, it will fade out and fade into AJFA for the remainder of the song).

I want to try this but how did you do the cutting and fade in/out of AJFA? Can it be done inside pinball browser? Also when you say "louder version" of songs what did you use or where did you get "louder version"? Thanks. I have been messing with different songs. The only one I really like that you are not using is Metal Mulisha. it is great to play to!

#5689 4 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

In case anyone was wondering what the Dirty Donny blacklight painted Sparky looks like with the UV/blacklight flashers installed... It is much darker than the bright white flashers but the effect is kinda cool and his brains really GLOW.

That looks awesome!

#5690 4 years ago

What LEDs can you guys recommend on the four large inserts (the mode inserts) just above the flippers.....my last couple choices didn't work out. I want colored LEDs in them.....preferably comet brand.

#5691 4 years ago
Quoted from lllvjr:

So this happened to me last night.. I think I had a few things stacked and I had a four ball multiball... I ended up with hitting one by one up there... Once they were all magnetized and I had nothing left to hit the game went into ball search.. Finally I gave the game a shake to free them up.

Are you using silverjets?

#5692 4 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

In case anyone was wondering what the Dirty Donny blacklight painted Sparky looks like with the UV/blacklight flashers installed... It is much darker than the bright white flashers but the effect is kinda cool and his brains really GLOW.

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

Who did your sparky that looks aussom

#5693 4 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Who did your sparky that looks aussom

the green looks sweet on the protector

#5695 4 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Who did your sparky that looks aussom

Dirty Donny... The artist who did the backglass, cabinet and playfield Art.

#5696 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballerchef:

What LEDs can you guys recommend on the four large inserts (the mode inserts) just above the flippers.....my last couple choices didn't work out. I want colored LEDs in them.....preferably comet brand.

I just swapped mine out last week for Comet LEDs. I'm using L to R; Red, Orange, Yellow, Pink, and Green. For the Red & Green I switched to the super flex type (since they are barrels & further away) which makes the insert much brighter because you can get the tip right up in there. When you use colors you really can see out of the corner of your eye where you are filling up the gauge vs actually having to look.

#5697 4 years ago

He's talking about the mode inserts not the fuel gauge. I personally just like CW lamps in there but did think about using color. If I did, I would do blue for the cross, keep Sparky white, snake orange, and coffin probably red.

#5698 4 years ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

Are you using silverjets?

No stock balls

#5699 4 years ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

He's talking about the mode inserts not the fuel gauge. I personally just like CW lamps in there but did think about using color. If I did, I would do blue for the cross, keep Sparky white, snake orange, and coffin probably red.

Doh. You're right. So many inserts.

#5700 4 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

I want to try this but how did you do the cutting and fade in/out of AJFA? Can it be done inside pinball browser? Also when you say "louder version" of songs what did you use or where did you get "louder version"? Thanks. I have been messing with different songs. The only one I really like that you are not using is Metal Mulisha. it is great to play to!

I use Audacity to edit the songs. I've been thinking about switching Four Horsemen for Metal Militia, but I haven't done it yet.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 40.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
$ 16.50
Lighting - Led
Lermods
There are 17204 posts in this topic. You are on page 114 of 345.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside