(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica Club - Ride the Lightning!

By swampfire

10 years ago


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#5601 8 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED has started chipping/peeling Seem like I read that others had this problem as well. I haven't contacted Stern yet. I just purchased this in May 2015.

IMG_0119_(resized).JPG

That core is beat to crap, how many plays do you have on your game. Re-level your core.

#5602 8 years ago
Quoted from gatordad:

Metallica will be my first NIB.
Just mailed off my check a few days ago.
Can't wait!!!!!

Very nice and congratulations!! Metallica was my first NIB too. It's gonna go nice with your current machines! Wish you were my neighbor! Post up pictures when it arrives.

#5604 8 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

this is the best thing I could have done to the machine.

I agree the Aurich hammer is awesome - but arguably - you need to get some fangs in your frog.

#5605 8 years ago

Double post

#5606 8 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I know someone mentioned this before, but you have a link or part # for this metal version? Thanks

Just a heads up, I replaced the plastic pop up post with the metal one from Pinball Life. I can now adjust it level with the play field and it stays there, unlike the plastic one. Seems ball rejects have lessened, then again I haven't played many games on it yet.

The part is called "Williams/Bally Bell Armature (Plunger) Assembly A-17986"

#5607 8 years ago
Quoted from Pinterest:

I agree the Aurich hammer is awesome - but arguably - you need to get some fangs in your frog.

Upvoted for the fangs, not the praise.

#5608 8 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Upvoted for the fangs, not the praise.

I'll definitely be doing the fangs! Just worried about them getting knocked off with flying balls

#5609 8 years ago

Update on the metal rod change- after playing numerous games tonight, the metal rod starting slipping lower in the play field again- just like the plastic one. The ball even got stuck back there because the rod had sunken in so much.

I decided to put a nut on the adjustment screw to hold it in place. It seems to come loose the more you play the machine- after playing a handful of games, the metal rod was still perfectly aligned with the play field. Also, while the reject rate is down- I don't think it made that big of a difference and would say keeping your plastic rod in there is probably no big deal.

Here's what I did to the adjustment screw:

2016-01-11_22.33.42_(resized).jpg2016-01-11_22.33.42_(resized).jpg

#5610 8 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I'll definitely be doing the fangs! Just worried about them getting knocked off with flying balls

I've had zero problems with my Mezel 3D printed ones.

I should polish them, see if I can't get them glossy.

#5611 8 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I know someone mentioned this before, but you have a link or part # for this metal version? Thanks

Williams/Bally Bell Armature (Plunger) Assembly A-17986
Do not change the length of the coil sleeve on the assembly which is used as playfield guide into the playfield itself to prevent binding.
Readily available from most suppliers.

You will occasionally get "bounce backs" from the right side orbit, but rarely the left.

#5612 8 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Update on the metal rod change- after playing numerous games tonight, the metal rod starting slipping lower in the play field again- just like the plastic one. The ball even got stuck back there because the rod had sunken in so much.
I decided to put a nut on the adjustment screw to hold it in place. It seems to come loose the more you play the machine- after playing a handful of games, the metal rod was still perfectly aligned with the play field. Also, while the reject rate is down- I don't think it made that big of a difference and would say keeping your plastic rod in there is probably no big deal.
Here's what I did to the adjustment screw:

2016-01-11_22.33.42_(resized).jpg

You can easily add another nylon lock nut if the lock washer nut is slipping over the first one.
The lock washer nut pictured is already supposed to be their if was forgotten at the factory.
Another answer is to use a reverse lock nut on the the other side of the coil stop, which is generally considered the "correct" method, but that is really unnecessary here.
Recommended options over Loctite.

#5613 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

You can easily add another nylon lock nut if the lock washer nut is slipping over the first one.
The lock washer nut pictured is already supposed to be their if was forgotten at the factory.
Another answer is to use a reverse lock nut on the the other side of the coil stop, which is generally considered the "correct" method, but that is really unnecessary here.
Recommended options over Loctite.

Interesting- maybe it was forgotten from the factory as this was a NIB machine I bought last month.

#5614 8 years ago

I'm very seriously considering buying a NIB MET pro. Is there any disadvantage to the new ones that Stern is currently pumping out vs. the older ones? Also, can anyone remember what MET pros originally sold for? I'm curious to know how much Stern has jacked up the price on the new run.

#5615 8 years ago

4400-4500 range mid 2015 with some throwing extras in for that. This was NIB June built LED PRO bought in June.

#5616 8 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I'm very seriously considering buying a NIB MET pro. Is there any disadvantage to the new ones that Stern is currently pumping out vs. the older ones? Also, can anyone remember what MET pros originally sold for? I'm curious to know how much Stern has jacked up the price on the new run.

They are improved and generally better, not worse. ASK for DATE OF MANUFACTURE. It is important.

#5617 8 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Interesting- maybe it was forgotten from the factory as this was a NIB machine I bought last month.

You would be surprised at the "little things" that can be overlooked at the factory. That is why an owner of a NIB machine needs to check EVERYTHING after unboxing and BEFORE power up.

I'm my case for example 2 out 4 leg bolt cabinet plates were stripped the to improper installation of leg bolts at the factory.
I had to install new ones to get the legs on properly among other things on the game. I reported my findings to my distributor to submit the report to Stern.

1000s of parts even with good QC is difficult at best. Stern remains suspect.

#5618 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

You would be surprised at the "little things" that can be overlooked at the factory. That is why an owner of a NIB machine needs to check EVERYTHING after unboxing and BEFORE power up.
I'm my case for example 2 out 4 leg bolt cabinet plates were stripped the to improper installation of leg bolts at the factory.
I had to install new ones to get the legs on properly among other things. Ni reported my findings to my distributor to do their job.
1000s of parts even with good QC is difficult at best. Stern remains suspect.

I've had all sorts of issues with games right out of the box. Loose power cables, misaligned ball guides, bad solder joints, etc ... Unfortunately, it goes with the territory.

#5619 8 years ago

My metallica Pro (not led model) is probably the last 'solid' pinball machine stern will release from the factory (SAM) IMO. With GOT pro next to it, GOT feels like it is 50 lbs lighter (no joke), its almost too easy to shift/nudge. Metallica feels like it is a Williams WPC machine compared next to the Spike. I enjoy the lighter machines for moving.....but they feel super light when playing/nudging.

anyone else notice this difference between the SAM and Spike machines?

#5620 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

You would be surprised at the "little things" that can be overlooked at the factory. That is why an owner of a NIB machine needs to check EVERYTHING after unboxing and BEFORE power up.
I'm my case for example 2 out 4 leg bolt cabinet plates were stripped the to improper installation of leg bolts at the factory.
I had to install new ones to get the legs on properly among other things. Ni reported my findings to my distributor to do their job.
1000s of parts even with good QC is difficult at best. Stern remains suspect.

No surprises. I couldn't even get one of the legs on out of the box, because one of the screw holes for the leg bolt had glue and foam in it. I couldn't figure out why the bolt wouldn't thread, so I grabbed a flash light and saw what was blocking it. Took screw driver and pushed all that crap into the cabinet and was finally able to thread the bolt in.

A few bulbs weren't lighting either, had to take them out and adjust the metal prongs and they lit up- that wasn't from it being shipped, but just not checked at the factory in my opinion.

#5621 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

You would be surprised at the "little things" that can be overlooked at the factory. That is why an owner of a NIB machine needs to check EVERYTHING after unboxing and BEFORE power up.
I'm my case for example 2 out 4 leg bolt cabinet plates were stripped the to improper installation of leg bolts at the factory.
I had to install new ones to get the legs on properly among other things. Ni reported my findings to my distributor to do their job.
1000s of parts even with good QC is difficult at best. Stern remains suspect.

I had the same issue with mine. I had to re-thread a couple of my leg plates and bolts when I received my MET NIB. I already had the right sized tap tool because I also had to use it on XM right out of the box. That's 2 for 2.

#5622 8 years ago

I installed a Pinnovators PINsub board to my MET yesterday, and it made a significant difference compared to the alligator clips from the cabinet sub to the external sub.

However, I also added the board to my XM and used a Pinnovators PINsmx passive mixer to share the same sub (features say you can connect up to four machines to the same sub). I lost a significant amount of the bass, even when only one machine was turned on. I made adjustments on the mixer, but still had to crank the sub volume way higher than before. Is this common to lose that much sound with the PINsmx mixer?

#5623 8 years ago

So, I'm finished adding the Pinnovators PinSub mod to my Metallica Pro (2013 build) and now I have a question about replacing the backbox speakers. I'm looking at the manuals (the pieced-together one from Stern's website AND the one that came with my machine), and I notice a difference in the wiring for the J10 audio connector. In two places (top two in the picture), the manual shows the wiring for J10 one way, and in another two places (bottom two in the picture), a different way, with the channels reversed, as well as polarity reversed. I am confused as to which is correct. And, given that my backbox speakers were wired out of phase at the factory (what the hell?), I am concerned about making an incorrect connection. Anyone have any experience with this. Also, does the PinSub mod add any load to either channel/amp (and which one?), as the SAM board has two amps? Thanks.

METaudio_(resized).jpgMETaudio_(resized).jpg

Edit: also posted the issue here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-sam-audio-j10-question-for-metallica-pro-2013

#5624 8 years ago

Finally gonna change up songs in Metallica. Any suggestions/tips for what songs pretty much have to stay? Plan to add Breadfan and undecided on what else.......just learning how to do it and changed some stuff on Kiss last night and want to change it up on Metallica now.

#5625 8 years ago
Quoted from Pickle:

Finally gonna change up songs in Metallica. Any suggestions/tips for what songs pretty much have to stay? Plan to add Breadfan and undecided on what else.......just learning how to do it and changed some stuff on Kiss last night and want to change it up on Metallica now.

Some useful info ;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-song-replacemnts

-4
#5626 8 years ago
Quoted from Pickle:

Finally gonna change up songs in Metallica. Any suggestions/tips for what songs pretty much have to stay? Plan to add Breadfan and undecided on what else.......just learning how to do it and changed some stuff on Kiss last night and want to change it up on Metallica now.

When I pick up my MET, I plan on changing ALL the songs. I love the pin, but I'm not a fan of Metallica at all.

#5627 8 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

I installed a Pinnovators PINsub board to my MET yesterday, and it made a significant difference compared to the alligator clips from the cabinet sub to the external sub.
However, I also added the board to my XM and used a Pinnovators PINsmx passive mixer to share the same sub (features say you can connect up to four machines to the same sub). I lost a significant amount of the bass, even when only one machine was turned on. I made adjustments on the mixer, but still had to crank the sub volume way higher than before. Is this common to lose that much sound with the PINsmx mixer?

This would be a great dissapoint if true, heck for $65 that's not much less than a sale price sub $79.

I ordered one to try out, but if it's as you say we'd be better off spending a bit more and get one sub for each pin.

#5628 8 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I ordered one to try out, but if it's as you say we'd be better off spending a bit more and get one sub for each pin.

You can hook up two pins to a sub without any modifications or extra equipment. One goes into the left channel, and the other into the right channel. I currently have ST, TWD, Tron and X-Men all hooked up to two Polk PSW10s.

#5629 8 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

When I pick up my MET, I plan on changing ALL the songs. I love the pin, but I'm not a fan of Metallica at all.

Well....

I had planned on switching out more but only 4 are being replaced

One
Sad But True
Unforgiven
Fade to Black

The others have grown on me, and you won't hear End of the Line except when you get to the Wizard so not much to be gained with that unless you're a great player.

#5630 8 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

You can hook up two pins to a sub without any modifications or extra equipment. One goes into the left channel, and the other into the right channel. I currently have ST, TWD, Tron and X-Men all hooked up to two Polk PSW10s.

I know this but the PinSmx box is billed as a solution where you can keep the sub volume on one setting and dial in each pins volume.

#5631 8 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Update on the metal rod change- after playing numerous games tonight, the metal rod starting slipping lower in the play field again- just like the plastic one. The ball even got stuck back there because the rod had sunken in so much.
I decided to put a nut on the adjustment screw to hold it in place. It seems to come loose the more you play the machine- after playing a handful of games, the metal rod was still perfectly aligned with the play field. Also, while the reject rate is down- I don't think it made that big of a difference and would say keeping your plastic rod in there is probably no big deal.
Here's what I did to the adjustment screw:

2016-01-11_22.33.42_(resized).jpg

Did you add this or put it on? The nut on the coil on my machine looks identical to it in the picture. Iam gonna try what was mentioned above and some blue loctite.

#5632 8 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Did you add this or put it on? The nut on the coil on my machine looks identical to it in the picture. Iam gonna try what was mentioned above and some blue loctite.

This nut was actually missing on my machine, which explains why the rod kept slipping lower in the play field. I found this one and tossed it on there- I didn't use locktite, but I might have to if it comes loose. Stern's award winning quality assurance team must have missed it when doing their glance over .. uhh.. "inspection" process.

#5633 8 years ago

I seemed to have resolved the issue where the ball gets stuck near the right side of the snake's jaw. I used some spare rubbers I had since I changed them all to translucent ones, so I sandwiched a larger one with two regular post rubbers. I wish I knew the exact diameters, but the larger one is used all over the machine, namely by the upper rollover switches by the pop bumpers if that helps.

2016-01-12_13.30.46_(resized).jpg2016-01-12_13.30.46_(resized).jpg

2016-01-12_13.34.04_(resized).jpg2016-01-12_13.34.04_(resized).jpg

#5634 8 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I know this but the PinSmx box is billed as a solution where you can keep the sub volume on one setting and dial in each pins volume.

I still have significant bass volume loss even if I unplug the second machine from the mixer. The only time I have a big booming difference is plugging one machine directly into the speaker without the mixer.

#5635 8 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

I still have significant bass volume loss even if I unplug the second machine from the mixer. The only time I have a big booming difference is plugging one machine directly into the speaker without the mixer.

i have 4 machines into one sub ...the PinSmx seems to work as intended for me. Maybe something faulty with the one you got.

#5636 8 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Did you add this or put it on? The nut on the coil on my machine looks identical to it in the picture. Iam gonna try what was mentioned above and some blue loctite.

If you can just double nut it.

#5637 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

If you can just double nut it.

That's what SHE said.

#5639 8 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

This nut was actually missing on my machine, which explains why the rod kept slipping lower in the play field. I found this one and tossed it on there- I didn't use locktite, but I might have to if it comes loose. Stern's award winning quality assurance team must have missed it when doing their glance over .. uhh.. "inspection" process.

I bet it's probably laying in the cab. When I lifted up my playfield to do the adjustment, my screw was 5 threads from falling off the rod.

Nice fix for the snake jaw area by the way. Does it interfer with the jaw when it moves?

#5640 8 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I bet it's probably laying in the cab. When I lifted up my playfield to do the adjustment, my screw was 5 threads from falling off the rod.
Nice fix for the snake jaw area by the way. Does it interfer with the jaw when it moves?

I looked in the cabinet and nothing I could find - oh well!

The snake jaw works flawlessly - my wife put on about 10 more games today and no stuck ball. She somehow gets it stuck a lot more than me and was very happy that the problem is now fixed, and so am I, because I've had to remove the glass a couple times to remove the ball

#5641 8 years ago

I am having an issue with the Snake Jaw lock on my 3 week old NIB MET Premium. The ball started off sometimes going inside the snake mouth and then sitting there and not shooting out until the ball finder process turned on- now its doing it all the time. Essentially what it does it go in the mouth and sits there. Trough ball finder kicks off and spits ball out but never counts as a lock. Anyone else have that issue or can point me in the right direction?

I have had quite a few adjustments and issues to resolve on a brand new $7K pin. That kind of sucks.

#5642 8 years ago

There are three switches in the Snake. One registers hits to a closed jaw. One registers when the mouth is open. One registers a ball sitting in the mouth. That 3rd one is the one you need to either adjust or replace. Put the game into switch test. I think there is even a Snake test function in utilities.

#5643 8 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Well....
I had planned on switching out more but only 4 are being replaced
One
Sad But True
Unforgiven
Fade to Black
The others have grown on me, and you won't hear End of the Line except when you get to the Wizard so not much to be gained with that unless you're a great player.

Just my opinion, but I'd think twice before removing any song that was related to a specific mode. Fade to Black has it's own Crank it up mode, and it would be pretty odd with another song running in there.

You picked the right songs to remove though. On mine I went...

Unforgiven......No Remorse
One.......Four Horseman
Sad but True.....Leper Messiah

The length of the songs worked out really well with this switch. I really only listen to their first three albums anyway, and I usually end up playing to these three songs 90% of the time. Made a huge difference.

Good luck with the swap!

#5644 8 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

There are three switches in the Snake. One registers hits to a closed jaw. One registers when the mouth is open. One registers a ball sitting in the mouth. That 3rd one is the one you need to either adjust or replace. Put the game into switch test. I think there is even a Snake test function in utilities.

Thank you for this! Before I read your reply I called Stern and talked to someone who was actually pretty helpful which I was surprised. I have never called them, and expected it to be difficult to reach a tech support guy, which thankfully wasn't the case.

I lifted the play field and checked the switches- it seems the little flimsy switch that sits inside the mouth of the snake just needed to be adjusted a bit- I stuck a flathead screwdriver in there and bent it a bit towards the play field. It was just enough so that the snake works 100% perfect again.

This game definitely needs adjusting here and there. The other day Sparky stopped banging his head around during the multi ball execution process- turns out that I needed to bend the metal bracket just a bit so the magnet could be close enough to grab the metal plate that contains the mechanism that moves his head.

I have never worked on pinball machines before, but it really isn't that difficult to do- but these are definitely not machines that you can expect to have in 100% working order all the time without some TLC. Now I know why many pinball machines were out of order in arcades as a kid LOL... either way, I enjoy working on them.. its part of the fun.

#5645 8 years ago

I am making another bad financial decision and have ordered a Metallica! Now I just have to wait until Stern sends some more up north. Get those ugly GOT off the line and churn out some sweet METs!

#5646 8 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

I am making another bad financial decision and have ordered a Metallica!...

Hey, stop right there with that rubbish!

#5647 8 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I am having an issue with the Snake Jaw lock on my 3 week old NIB MET Premium. The ball started off sometimes going inside the snake mouth and then sitting there and not shooting out until the ball finder process turned on- now its doing it all the time. Essentially what it does it go in the mouth and sits there. Trough ball finder kicks off and spits ball out but never counts as a lock. Anyone else have that issue or can point me in the right direction?
I have had quite a few adjustments and issues to resolve on a brand new $7K pin. That kind of sucks.

For future reference and additional explanation.

Adjust the contact with switch adjustment tools by holding down the back side of the leaf switch (where the contact is) and using the other blade tool to bend the front of the switch *slightly* upwards.

You can do this from the underside of the playfield without removing the snake assembly.

Do not use your fingers, needle nose pliers, or foreceps as they can break the leaf switch. Get the right tools, do not use screwdrivers either.

You will eventually do the same process for roller switches in trough due to use or any playfield for that matter, until the contact just wears out after 100k uses or so.

Just part of pinball, NIB or not.

I had to do all trough switches when I installed my non-magnetic trough shim and reduce ball divots in the trough itself.

#5648 8 years ago

I'm looking for some clarification on the rules. I read the wiki rules, but they're kind of abbreviated. Is there a more complete rule sheet?

Specifically with the band/pick targets. How many shots each band member and is the progress saved between balls? Do only flashing picks give points?

Also on the coffin hurry up, each time you hit a different shot that will light that shot but unlight the prior shot, is there a good strategy like try to avoid starting another shot or is it better to light a few shots and inserts and cash in several at a time? IOW what's the point value for cashing in more than one at a time and is there a good strategy coffin hurry ups? Once one is lit to collect is it best to cash it in or try to complete another quick one and cash two at once?

#5649 8 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I'm looking for some clarification on the rules. I read the wiki rules, but they're find of abbreviated.
Specifically with the band/pick targets. How many shots each band member and is the progress saved between balls. I mean if the first light takes 4 hits, does the next take 2 hits each and so on?
Also on the coffin hurry up, each time you hit a different shot that will light that shot but un light the prior shot, is there a good strategy like try to avoid starting another shot or is it better to light a few shots and cash in several at a time? IOW what's the point value for cashing in more than one at a time and is there a good rule of thumb to try one way ot another for coffin hurry ups?

The Pick Targets (depending on settings from menu)
Lets say hitting all 4 pick targets counts as 1 cycle.
Getting 2 cycles will light a band member, then you need 3 cycles, then 4, finally 5 cycles will start Blackened Mode.
The aim in Blackened is again complete a cycle and hit main shots for points. I've had a Blackened score of 265mil during a multiball.

On a further note, in multiball, 1 cycle of targets will open the snake and allow you to lock a ball in there, the 1st time you do this you get double scoring for 20secs, as well as an add a ball, and ball save. Subsequent cycles, just opens the snake to allow you to lock a ball for 20secs (no double scoring or add a ball). Still worth aiming for to safely 'store' a ball while still playing for multiball points.

With the hurry ups, I find the best strategy is to light the Grave marker first, as before that is solid, every hit on the drop targets will switch to that lane. I personally don't tray and stack the hurry ups as the effort required is not worth the payoff; 1m to 2.6m for 2 at once. I have had 3 at once but that was not by design.
Lighting all 5 starts Seek and Destroy. The aim is to hit the first shot you completed, followed by captive ball, followed by 2nd shot you completed, captive ball etc. The best I have achieved on this is about 80mil, again in a multiball. Before the CIU modes were added this was really the best strategy for big points - however.

A far bigger bonus of completing the shot is that each lit shot will award 1 Cross hit, 1 Sparky hit & 1 Snake hit towards the CIU mode when really big scores can be achieved, especially if you make use of the double playfied and complete the mode before cashing in the Jackpot.
The order I have found to be most profitable (and hence the order I play them in) is Fade to Black, Enter SandMan, Whom the Bell Tolls and finally Battery (mainly because the ball is out of control after hitting Sparky).
EOL I have only got to twice, with the best score being 64mil, was disappointed with that

Hope that makes a few things clearer for you, and anybody else. There are so many different scoring strategies as to make this such a great game it'll NEVER be leaving my collection.

#5650 8 years ago

Thanks

So are the pick targets collected carried over to the next ball? I mean partial or completed cycles?

Also you say completing 2 cycles lights the first band member, then 3 cycles (meaning 5 total) cycles for the second and so on?

That'd be 15 total cycles to get all for correct?

Good tip about the grave marker shot. But ever shot on whatever spider target will switch that to the active shot?

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SilverBall Designs
Protection
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toys/Add-ons
10,500
From: $ 209.00
Displays
Retrocity
Displays
$ 27.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Other
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
Other
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
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