(Topic ID: 50762)

Metallica owner's thread


By swampfire

6 years ago



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#5551 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I'm not talking about the volume of the machine, I'm asking about the menu setting (standard settings) where it says 'music volume'?

I know, I'm always messing with it.

#5552 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I'm not talking about the volume of the machine, I'm asking about the menu setting (standard settings) where it says 'music volume'?

Music volume base 1 (default)
Music attenuation 0 or 5 (loss)
Voice attenuation -10 (gain)
Game volume 35-50 (range)
I don't recommend going past 55 in game volume especially with a sub woofer. Distortion and speaker damage will eventually result. Pinball cabinet speakers are just not that good (even upgraded) to harness the same quality as home stereo. Its hard to completely insulate the panel from vibration, which causes sound quality loss. I had to use additional rubber mounting rings. Plus, MET is pumping out a mono signal anyway.

This setup gets clear call outs with no muddy music interference, but still loud enough to hear music without mid-range "crackling". Also, if you have a PR or LE, your ears won't hurt from the spinners when using a sub woofer, but is a cool effect when using a tachometer.

Maybe when PinSound brings out SAM compatibility things will improve greatly. Something to look forward too.

#5553 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Music volume base 1 (default)
Music attenuation 0 or 5 (loss)
Voice attenuation -10 (gain)

what do you mean by loss and gain? what do you mean by 0 or 5 for music attenuation?

I would like the music to be a bit louder than the sound effects.

#5554 4 years ago

Metallica will be my first NIB.
Just mailed off my check a few days ago.
Can't wait!!!!!

#5555 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

what do you mean by loss and gain? what do you mean by 0 or 5 for music attenuation?
I would like the music to be a bit louder than the sound effects.

Base music volume is controlled via standard features, without looking it up the actual feature number.
1- highest, 15- lowest in comparison to all other sounds.
Further adjustments are made in the feature adjustments.
Base value is 0.
Negative numbers mean louder (gain), and positive numbers mean quieter (loss).
"Attenuation" are the adjustment terms and are what is programmed.
Gain and loss are music equalizer terms.

If you want music to be louder, and everything else remain the same, base music volume is 1. Music attenuation somewhere between -10 to -30. Keep the voice attenuation at 0.

#5556 4 years ago

thanks, I can never figure that out. Still don't understand, I like the idea 1-40 with 40 being louder. But you've helped me a lot, I'm fixing my Met and AcDc now.

#5557 4 years ago
Quoted from gatordad:

Metallica will be my first NIB.
Just mailed off my check a few days ago.
Can't wait!!!!!

Did the same myself 10 days ago, Gatordad !, also my first NIB for a MET Premium Monsters.

What did you decide on -- Pro / Premium / LE?
Where did you end up getting yours, and if I may ask, for how much?

Do you know what you will be modding?
I've got a bunch of things in mind just reading this awesome thread.

So many questions, must be the excitement of new pinball smell.

#5558 4 years ago
Quoted from gatordad:

Metallica will be my first NIB.
Just mailed off my check a few days ago.
Can't wait!!!!!

Me too! Dropped my check for a pro. Funny thing...when I got in my jeep to head to post office. Turned on the radio and enter sandman came on. It was a sign. Lol. Super stoked to get my first NIB.

#5559 4 years ago

Drilled a few holes in the Pro snake mod to fit my LE and loving the look of the snake now!

image_(resized).jpeg

#5560 4 years ago

Just put the Pinnovators sub board on my Met and just about shook the house down. Now it they just made one for my Batman Forever.

#5561 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Keep your volume settings at there current positions and when you get it hooked up you will notice a better sound then with alligator clips. Quite a big difference, Iam very happy with the quality. . You have to free up the screen from the staple to get the cable in at the top rear of backbox. Report back on what you think?

Can someone explain why the sound is improved with this mod over alligator clips?

Quoted from bobbyt:

I just installed this yesterday and it does sound much cleaner and louder, and you know that you have it hooked up much safer then the alligator clips, you can't beat the price for what you get, I believe this is a must have if you are going to hook up the Polk sub, thank you guys for all the info on this mod

Can you post a link for this mod please.

#5562 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Can someone explain why the sound is improved with this mod over alligator clips?

Yeah all there really is on the board are a couple of resistors.

#5563 4 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Me too! Dropped my check for a pro. Funny thing...when I got in my jeep to head to post office. Turned on the radio and enter sandman came on. It was a sign. Lol. Super stoked to get my first NIB.</blockquote

Curious who your buying your pro from? Im close to pulling the trigger on a pro myself and I see your not far from me.

#5564 4 years ago

Metallica pro I bought in August 2015 was my 1st NIB game purchase. I really didn't think I'd still have it this long due to being able to play one where ever I go. The game is just that fun while being rewarding to play over and over. I have had EOL lit to go one time and couldn't start it. So the trek continues.

#5565 4 years ago

Well shoot I was waxing my MET LE and and when I turned it back on after I was done the Sparky coil engaged pulling his head back and the coil is stuck that way (coil actuated all the time) the only way it will release is if I open the coin door. I have no idea what I could of done I did wax the playfield behind sparky and had to work around the coil that is now stuck on to do so... Any ideas?
I replaced the F10 fuse and the sparky coil appears to be functioning normally now. The only remaining problem is that the 2 flashers behind sparky are now stuck on all the time, now I just need to figure out why the flashers are activated all the time.. I am worried that I have a blown transistor

#5566 4 years ago

I'm not familiar with met, but is there a opto that possibility could have wax jammed in it......just a shot in the dark

#5567 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Well shoot I was waxing my MET LE and and when I turned it back on after I was done the Sparky coil engaged pulling his head back and the coil is stuck that way (coil actuated all the time) the only way it will release is if I open the coin door. I have no idea what I could of done I did wax the playfield behind sparky and had to work around the coil that is now stuck on to do so... Any ideas?

The coil wire on my pro went down and plugged into a little board under the playfield. Not sure if it's the same on the LE. I'd check that board and make sure it's connectors didn't get loose.

When my sparky coil failed, those are the parts stern sent me that fixed it up.

#5568 4 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

I'm not familiar with met, but is there a opto that possibility could have wax jammed in it......just a shot in the dark

I will check the Sparky optos as I believe the actuate the Sparky flashers.
Thanks

Edit: Sparky optos are working normally, I went thru active switch test and everything looked ok... I'm stumped

#5569 4 years ago

Perhaps you blew a chip or transistor that drive the backpanel flashers when the short occurred?

#5570 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Well shoot I was waxing my MET LE and and when I turned it back on after I was done the Sparky coil engaged pulling his head back and the coil is stuck that way (coil actuated all the time) the only way it will release is if I open the coin door.

Did you shut the game down with the coin door OPEN?
If so, this is still a known technical issue with all METs, and should be warned to all owners.

The infamous Sparky coil - coin door "lock and burn".
This sounds EXACTLY what happened, but you caught it BEFORE the coil actually burned after the locking of the transistor.
It would have given around 10 seconds or so...

My guess is you did nothing to aggravate the situation in cleaning, even if you knocked something loose.
Sparky optos are not going to activate the coil, they control the magnet and activate flashers.

It was NEVER fixed in the game code or design to my knowledge, but anyone feel free to update if it was addressed.
It was first reported in 2013.
I KNOW it was reported to distributors as a game concern.
It is one of several of the game's "Achilles Heels" to this day.
You need to test the coil driver TIP on the PDB.

Yes, the situation SUCKS because you were unaware, and every machine from every manufacturer has some type of oddity like this in its design not caught in development.
The difference with BLY/WMS is "usually" they were addressed within two years...grrrrr.

#5571 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Can someone explain why the sound is improved with this mod over alligator clips?

Can you post a link for this mod please.

Just go back a page or 2 in this thread and it will have all the info that you need

#5572 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Did you shut the game down with the coin door OPEN?
If so, this is still a known technical issue with all METs, and should be warned to all owners.
The infamous Sparky coil - coin door "lock and burn".
This sounds EXACTLY what happened, but you caught it BEFORE the coil actually burned after the locking of the transistor.
It would have given around 10 seconds or so...
My guess is you did nothing to aggravate the situation in cleaning, even if you knocked something loose.
Sparky optos are not going to activate the coil, they control the magnet and activate flashers.
It was NEVER fixed in the game code or design to my knowledge, but anyone feel free to update if it was addressed.
It was first reported in 2013.
I KNOW it was reported to distributors as a game concern.
It is one of several of the game's "Achilles Heels" to this day.
You need to test the coil driver TIP on the PDB.
Yes, the situation SUCKS because you were unaware, and every machine from every manufacturer has some type of oddity like this in its design not caught in development.
The difference with BLY/WMS is "usually" they were addressed within two years...grrrrr.

Yes I did shut the game down with the coin door open, I had no idea I thought it was very odd that the sparky coil locked up like that. Any one know what transistor on the main board I should be looking at, also am I gunna need to get a whole new board? My board repair skills are not real strong.

#5573 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Yes I did shut the game down with the coin door open, I had no idea I thought it was very odd that the sparky coil locked up like that. Any one know what transistor on the main board I should be looking at, also am I gunna need to get a whole new board? My board repair skills are not real strong.

Right now, I cannot tell you that, because I stated the TIP needed to be tested.
Indications tell me the transistor is burned out.
The transistor in question is the 50v step up board, Q18.
The MINI board (50v step-up driver board (Stern #520-5254-00)) actually could be blown instead if TIP and wiring is good.

The only way I can see that *might* potentially avoiding the situation for the future on ALL GAMES unless corrected from Stern is to add an in lane fuse protection connection to the circuit, but I still am not sure DIRECTLY WHY the game locks the coil on after the game is shut down with the high power disengaged. There is no direct short, but somehow is tied to the 50v step up board, low current side, which is NOT high power.

I have done this with magnets, but that is generally for the reverse problem of overuse and heat which eventually burns out the TIP, similar to what happened with the Balrog and one ring coils for LOTR or TAF "Feel the Power" (Magnet X3).

#5574 4 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

The coil wire on my pro went down and plugged into a little board under the playfield. Not sure if it's the same on the LE. I'd check that board and make sure it's connectors didn't get loose.
When my sparky coil failed, those are the parts stern sent me that fixed it up.

That is the 50v step-up driver board (Stern #520-5254-00).
NOTE: This is actually the same board you use for making a "real" knocker kit for Stern games, unless you tap a direct 50v coil, which is NOT recommended.

#5575 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Can someone explain why the sound is improved with this mod over alligator clips?

Can you post a link for this mod please.

PM me if you want to understand more than what is posted (and there is a LOT anyway).
I still recommend getting rid of those clips, including any others in people's machines for other mods.

#5576 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

PM me if you want to understand more than what is posted (and there is a LOT anyway).
I still recommend getting rid of those clips, including any others in people's machines for other mods.

Maybe you could create a new thread just for that conversation? This impacts more than just Met and it seems as though there are a lot of people on the fence, myself included. Could be a useful thread and one that later one we could just link to when the question(s) come up again.

I'd love to know more about it as well. My mind is just struggling with how you get a cleaner signal and not just a stronger one. My mind is telling me that you are still splitting off the main signal. You are just doing it at the board vs the speaker. I know it's more technical than that but that is where my mind is stuck. I really don't care about the sub being more powerful as it is already stronger than needed but am interested if there is a cleaner signal that you can tell the difference on. I.E. - Is the sound more crisp on a game with a board and the sub at 1/4 power vs a game with alligator clips and a sub at 3/4 power.

#5577 4 years ago

I just got off the phone with Chas it appears I have a shorted Q27 transistor which is causing my Sparky flashers to stay on all the time, I'm sending an email to JJ at Game Exchange now for replacement parts.. Thanks Chas & JJ you guys are the best!

#5578 4 years ago

Added an Aurich style hammer to my machine, courtesy of a guy here who sold this to me off his machine- to me its a huge improvement over the ginormous stock hammer- I love this game !! This small touch makes it that much better.

2016-01-09_13.53.25_(resized).jpg

#5579 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Added an Aurich style hammer to my machine, courtesy of a guy here who sold this to me off his machine

Just for the record the guy who made that asked me first if I would mind if he made it, and I helped him out with 3D armatures. He also asked if I would mind if he sold it. More mods is all good with me.

I am still working on getting cast ones made for the record too.

#5580 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Just for the record the guy who made that asked me first if I would mind if he made it, and I helped him out with 3D armatures. He also asked if I would mind if he sold it. More mods is all good with me.
I am still working on getting cast ones made for the record too.

Ah ok - he mentioned this to me but I didn't know if he wanted it publicly known

I am very grateful that you worked with him on this- also, very cool on his part to run everything by you out of respect. Besides the colorDMD and subwoofer upgrades, this is the best thing I could have done to the machine. The stock hammer is fugly compared to this one.

#5581 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Ah ok - he mentioned this to me but I didn't know if he wanted it publicly known

Just figured I'd say something before someone else got mad on my behalf or something.

#5582 4 years ago

Does the flashers behind the back panel plastic bother anyone else? It bugs me that when these go off I see the cutouts in the panel itself. I've seen some mods (not sure which they were though) that made it look more like the electrical arc is flashing.

Who makes a mod that helps this look better?

I had a thought... what if one were to mask off those areas better so that the electrical arc is the only part that you can see the flasher through.

#5583 4 years ago
Quoted from gatordad:

Metallica will be my first NIB.
Just mailed off my check a few days ago.
Can't wait!!!!!

Me too (first NIB). I got mine last Thursday. You're in for a treat. The game play is super.

#5584 4 years ago

Aurich, still waiting to see what you come up next for us in the Met club.......

#5585 4 years ago

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED has started chipping/peeling Seem like I read that others had this problem as well. I haven't contacted Stern yet. I just purchased this in May 2015.

IMG_0119_(resized).JPG

#5586 4 years ago
Quoted from kcZ:

Does the flashers behind the back panel plastic bother anyone else? It bugs me that when these go off I see the cutouts in the panel itself. I've seen some mods (not sure which they were though) that made it look more like the electrical arc is flashing.
Who makes a mod that helps this look better?
I had a thought... what if one were to mask off those areas better so that the electrical arc is the only part that you can see the flasher through.

Quoted from shovelhed:

Aurich, still waiting to see what you come up next for us in the Met club.......

Hmm.

#5587 4 years ago

Question: I adjusted the up/down post in the back because it wasn't level with the playfield. I got it level then after a few games I noticed it went back down in the hole a 1/4" from level with the playfield. What gives? I tightened the nut on the posts coil tight where you adjust it. Anything I missed or should have done?

Also getting the annoying ball stuck in the corner of the snakes jaw on the right side, resting against the pick target. It don't happen alot, but does happen. Any ideas on this as well? Thanks

#5588 4 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED has started chipping/peeling Seem like I read that others had this problem as well. I haven't contacted Stern yet. I just purchased this in May 2015.

IMG_0119_(resized).JPG

That sucks - sorry to see this happen. I personally put a mylar circle around mine the day I opened it out of the box. Hopefully that will be enough protection as the magnet does fling the ball around like crazy in that area.

#5589 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Question: I adjusted the up/down post in the back because it wasn't level with the playfield. I got it level then after a few games I noticed it went back down in the hole a 1/4" from level with the playfield. What gives? I tightened the nut on the posts coil tight where you adjust it. Anything I missed or should have done?
Also getting the annoying ball stuck in the corner of the snakes jaw on the right side, resting against the pick target. It don't happen alot, but does happen. Any ideas on this as well? Thanks

I attempted to adjust my post as well, and same thing happened- keeps going under play field and not staying level. I also ordered a metal post from PBL because I get a lot of left orbit rejects vs the ball going into the poppers.

As for the snake jaw issue- I get that too. The ball will sometimes get stuck near its right mouth. Not sure what to do, I even tried to bend the ramp a bit. I think some type of bumper should be installed on the ramp to close off that area. Maybe a rubber standoff with superglue, but haven't tried anything yet.

#5590 4 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED has started chipping/peeling Seem like I read that others had this problem as well. I haven't contacted Stern yet. I just purchased this in May 2015.

Stern is not going to help you, this is not covered under warranty. Not sure what you expect them to do after over 8+ months of ownership? Are you trying to get a new PF? If so, that seems unlikely.

Dependent on number of plays, this is certainly normal "wear and tear". You can improve situation however. Relevel the magnet core and install a carbon fiber Cliffy protector. Installing a protector early would have arrested the problem.

Some people scoff at protectors on NIB machines (not necessarily you), but many times ARE needed. Clearcoat edges and unleveled magnets = PF damage. They will chip out due metal on edge contact. Magnets do need periodic adjustment after a machine has been played for awhile.

#5591 4 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED has started chipping/peeling Seem like I read that others had this problem as well. I haven't contacted Stern yet. I just purchased this in May 2015.

IMG_0119_(resized).JPG

Did you have any mylar on that?

#5592 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Question: I adjusted the up/down post in the back because it wasn't level with the playfield. I got it level then after a few games I noticed it went back down in the hole a 1/4" from level with the playfield. What gives? I tightened the nut on the posts coil tight where you adjust it. Anything I missed or should have done?
Also getting the annoying ball stuck in the corner of the snakes jaw on the right side, resting against the pick target. It don't happen alot, but does happen. Any ideas on this as well? Thanks

Check for binding of the bell armature, alignment of the coil bracket, coil sleeve, return spring tension, and coil stop position again. One or more of these is not right.

My armature was replaced with a WMS metal version to prevent ball "bounce backs". This post is slimmer than the standard Stern plastic post version which makes it unlikely to bind or stick as well. Another one of my "mods" which is really just another factory correction. I used the same trick as others on additional Stern machines like LOTR.

#5593 4 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED

Give them a call and ask. This was around the time they had a big batch of bad PF's go out. Don't be demanding, and just see if they can offer anything. Even a unpopulated PF so you can have a spare for a rainy day.

#5594 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I attempted to adjust my post as well, and same thing happened- keeps going under play field and not staying level. I also ordered a metal post from PBL because I get a lot of left orbit rejects vs the ball going into the poppers.
As for the snake jaw issue- I get that too. The ball will sometimes get stuck near its right mouth. Not sure what to do, I even tried to bend the ramp a bit. I think some type of bumper should be installed on the ramp to close off that area. Maybe a rubber standoff with superglue, but haven't tried anything yet.

Ya haven't been getting rejects, it's works as it should. Just want it level with the playfield. Post up, if the metal post stays level?

I thought maybe there was a fix or something on the ball getting hung up there on the snake jaw by now.

Quoted from ita47:

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED has started chipping/peeling Seem like I read that others had this problem as well. I haven't contacted Stern yet. I just purchased this in May 2015.

IMG_0119_(resized).JPG

Make sure that magnet is level with the playfield. I just clean and wax real good, and make sure it's level. I don't use those mylar circles, just wax, Blitz wax. Almost two years owning, and it still looks new. Change balls often too is good preventative maintenance. Your magnet looks cooked as well. The edges of it in your picture Iam referring to. Run your finger over the magnet, if you feel unevenness adjust. It should be smooth transition when running your finger over it. If all else, it looks to be easy to touch up the black there. The thing I do like about the art of this game, is the wear marks kinda just do blend in and not really stick put. If I was to walk up to the machine, I wouldn't have noticed until you pointed it out.

#5595 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Also getting the annoying ball stuck in the corner of the snakes jaw on the right side, resting against the pick target. It don't happen alot, but does happen. Any ideas on this as well? Thanks

Is your target leaning over and the ball resting on it? If so, one of these will fix that leaning problem. http://mezelmods.com/collections/under20/products/stern-target-splints?variant=923513721

Looking at my machine there is a post there with a rubber on it (between the ramp and target) but I'm not sure if the Pro's have it too.

#5596 4 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED has started chipping/peeling Seem like I read that others had this problem as well. I haven't contacted Stern yet. I just purchased this in May 2015.

IMG_0119_(resized).JPG

Kind of a bummer but an easy touch up and fix. I'd replace that magnet core as it's looking like it's starting to mushroom on you. Then touch up that spot with some black paint and then put a mylar circle down. Will be good as new.

As a couple have said. Stern did have a bad batch of PF's for a little bit but those were losing paint in that area in chunks. MUCH worse than what you have.

#5597 4 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED has started chipping/peeling Seem like I read that others had this problem as well. I haven't contacted Stern yet. I just purchased this in May 2015.

IMG_0119_(resized).JPG

Has anyone seen this happen on the LE?
Or was it a bad batch of pro plafields?

#5598 4 years ago
Quoted from Kiwipinhead:

Has anyone seen this happen on the LE?
Or was it a bad batch of pro plafields?

Just Pro's.

I'm sure there are some LE/Prem that would have wear there to depending on play and care. That area can get beat pretty hard by the ball.

#5599 4 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

Recently found that the area around the Sparky magnet on my MET Pro LED has started chipping/peeling Seem like I read that others had this problem as well. I haven't contacted Stern yet. I just purchased this in May 2015.

IMG_0119_(resized).JPG

That magnet sure looks high in that pic, it should be flush with the playfield.

#5600 4 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Is your target leaning over and the ball resting on it? If so, one of these will fix that leaning problem. http://mezelmods.com/collections/under20/products/stern-target-splints?variant=923513721
Looking at my machine there is a post there with a rubber on it (between the ramp and target) but I'm not sure if the Pro's have it too.

Thanks, I do have a premium, but Iam talking about the right corner snake jaw, ball gets hung up sometimes.

Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Check for binding of the bell armature, alignment of the coil bracket, coil sleeve, return spring tension, and coil stop position again. One or more of these is not right.
My armature was replaced with a WMS metal version to prevent ball "bounce backs". This post is slimmer than the standard Stern plastic post version which makes it unlikely to bind or stick as well. Another one of my "mods" which is really just another factory correction. I used the same trick as others on additional Stern machines like LOTR.

I know someone mentioned this before, but you have a link or part # for this metal version? Thanks

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