(Topic ID: 38528)

Metal Cabinet Protectors on a NIB, 'non-decal'ed machine

By micro

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by rai
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 11 years ago

I have a LOTR NIB, and I was curious if I should use these metal cabinet protectors, versus the plastic ones.

I have researched the benefit of the metal protectors, and it seems like they are the answer to the wrinkling problem for the new sterns with decals.

But is there any reason not to use these on a NIB game (no wear obviously).

They are about the same price, and I would imagine look better, as you cannot see any protector present at all. You would be putting in a couple wood screws into the cabinet per protector, which I don't mind.

Thanks, and I appreciate any comments on the pluses and minuses.

Micro

#2 11 years ago

The metal protectors are the greatest thing since sliced bread. Any game I have that has no damage yet, I'd put them on and you are pretty much guarenteed to never have damage.

The restores I now do, get these. Of course, if decals have been applied, you need to remove the decal where the protector goes.

#3 11 years ago

I don't understand the last statement. Are you saying you need to cut the decal out where the protector is? on a NIB? seems like a bigger chance to do damage doing that. is there anything that works to put right over whatever is there?

#4 11 years ago

I have a really stupid question. I have never seen the metal cabinet protectors either applied or off of a machine. How does a metal leg damage a cabinet decal, but a metal protector doesn't?

#5 11 years ago

They are for cabinets with decals. Stern got it right. You install it, then slice the decal around the metal edge. Then remove it and remove the decal that was underneath. Then reinstall the metal protector. It rides tight against the wood of the cabinet. Installing the leg over it keeps the leg from touching the decal.

When you have a leg tight against a decal, as you bump the cabinet, the leg moves against the decal pushing it in one direction or the other. Do this many times and you end up with a decal that has moved and left a bubble underneath.

The metal plates totally prevent this since the leg and spacer never touch the decal.

I would guess that they will work fine on a non decal cabinet as well.

#7 11 years ago

Every machine I put new decals on will get these....

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from roc-noc:

They are for cabinets with decals. Stern got it right. You install it, then slice the decal around the metal edge. Then remove it and remove the decal that was underneath. Then reinstall the metal protector. It rides tight against the wood of the cabinet. Installing the leg over it keeps the leg from touching the decal.
When you have a leg tight against a decal, as you bump the cabinet, the leg moves against the decal pushing it in one direction or the other. Do this many times and you end up with a decal that has moved and left a bubble underneath.
The metal plates totally prevent this since the leg and spacer never touch the decal.
I would guess that they will work fine on a non decal cabinet as well.

OK. That makes sense. Like I said, I am totally unfamiliar with the product. Thank you for clearing things up.

#9 11 years ago

Now does anyone know why when I quote someone, my text is so small??

#10 11 years ago

I've seen people complain about the damage done under a leg without cabinet protectors. By cutting the decal out aren't you kind of damaging the area?

#11 11 years ago

has anybody tried these on a decaled pin?
http://www.pinballpal.com/stealth/#Leg

#12 11 years ago

Thanks for the feedback. I think I will give them a shot.

Micro

#13 11 years ago
Quoted from mcclad:

Now does anyone know why when I quote someone, my text is so small??

dont knolw why, but you have to place a space (line) after you quote. For some reason this happens. Just go back and edit your post and put a (return) space after the quote.

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