(Topic ID: 292694)

Medusa playfield swap

By Mudflaps

3 years ago


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There are 137 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Are you using slow blow fuses? Both blown fuses look like fast blow.

Likely fast blow. I have a 3A slow blow if that’s what Bally uses.

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#102 3 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Likely fast blow. I have a 3A slow blow if that’s what Bally uses.

Yep, the fuse in your fingers with the spring looking wire is a slow blow fuse.
The fuses in the yellow packet are fast blow fuses.

#103 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yep, the fuse in your fingers with the spring looking wire is a slow blow fuse.
The fuses in the yellow packet are fast blow fuses.

I swapped the fuse with a SB. Thank you sir.

Also, again, a huge thanks for everyone’s help working out the gremlins. Especially Skidave for letting me know one of my flippers had a diode installed backwards, likely causing many of my issues.

#104 3 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Also, again, a huge thanks for everyone’s help working out the gremlins. Especially Skidave for letting me know one of my flippers had a diode installed backwards, likely causing many of my issues.

Happy to help! Plenty of members here helped me along the way. I'm enjoying your thread and glad that I could chip in some way.

#105 3 years ago

This is what happens when a coil has a backwards diode. I can’t even pull out the sleeve.

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#106 3 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

I can’t even pull out the sleeve. [quoted image]

Yup you gotta drill it out

#107 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Yup you gotta drill it out

I’m not even going to bother, I have a replacement on the way. Yet another lesson for my bag of tricks...

1 week later
#108 3 years ago

Received the replacement coil (with the diodes installed correctly) and soldered/installed.

No issues, game plays perfectly. No resets, no blown fuses after 30 minutes or so of gameplay. I have a few stuck switches and a few rollovers are giving me shit, but that’s the easy stuff. It’s absolutely playable.

I have a replacement filter and MOV for the next fix. I’ll get everything working 100%, then on to the cabinet.

I’ll wrap up this thread with a big thanks for everyone who chimed in to help or offer some encouragement!

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#109 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcane:

Very sweet. What is the brand of the rotisserie that you are using?
Yves

I currently have some Pindoc rotisseries in stock readt to ship. PM me for availabilty.

Looking good mudflaps. I have never played Medusa. Looks like a lot of fun.

#110 3 years ago

Nicely done sir, enjoyed watching your updates!

1 week later
#111 3 years ago

Thanks for taking us on this trip of playfield swap delight. Medusa is a beautiful games and deserves the attention. Gives me motivation to attack my Medusa swap now.

#112 3 years ago

Congrats! After medusa you should feel confident to take on any SS playfield swap!

For the lightbar I probably would have routed out the bottom of the PF where the brackets mount to remove the extra CPR thickness so it mounted OEM style.

#113 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Congrats! After medusa you should feel confident to take on any SS playfield swap!
For the lightbar I probably would have routed out the bottom of the PF where the brackets mount to remove the extra CPR thickness so it mounted OEM style.

I’ve been thinking about that. We’re in the middle of a move, but once we’re settled, I’m going to do the cabinet. When the playfield is out, I’ll likely remove the light bar and gently route the underside where the brackets attach.

My first thought was ‘do no harm’ to the playfield, but routing may be the best option.

4 months later
#114 2 years ago

Revisiting this thread. I took a long break after swapping playfields for Medusa and Fathom before doing the cabinet.

Medusa is fully stripped and primed. I used fiberglass resin to level any cracks and repair the bottom and back. All parts are taking an Evaporust bath or in the tumbler. New trim, legs and boards are waiting. Once the base color fully dries, Pinball Pimp stencils are next.
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#115 2 years ago

Looks good Mud.

Piece of advice on paint if your still deciding what to go with. The last cabinet I painted was with a Coronade Urethane paint, and that stuff is simply awesome, and will be my go-to from now on. It sprayed very nice from a HVLP gun too, and it appears to be extremely durable, and chemical resistant.

Its so durable that when I screw up the screen-pritning of art on the back of WPC heads, I can wipe the messed-up paint off with thinner, and the thinner wont touch the base finish at all. Dont try that on a spray can finish.

I have never seen a Medusa. Looks like a very fun pin.

#116 2 years ago

TY for pics, I'm tearing into my Medusa that was partially restored, but blows F4 on the rectifier board on start-up.

I'm going through all of the coils and connectors and man o man. Some people should *NOT* solder.

The pics of the zipper flipper mechs was invaluable to me, so again thanks very much for posting those.

#117 2 years ago
Quoted from pb456:

TY for pics, I'm tearing into my Medusa that was partially restored, but blows F4 on the rectifier board on start-up.
I'm going through all of the coils and connectors and man o man. Some people should *NOT* solder.
The pics of the zipper flipper mechs was invaluable to me, so again thanks very much for posting those.

Thanks, glad the pictures helped.

The cabinet is finished, and the stencils… did not go well. The head is finished, but the gold paint didn’t adhere to the cabinet at all. The gold stuck to the stencils, so I’m back to sanding and I’ll start over. Very frustrating, but I’ll go in sections next time vs spraying the entire side.

1 week later
#118 2 years ago

Almost ready.

The cabinet and head are primed and sprayed. The head stencils went okay, but the cabinet stencils went really bad. I had to re-do them because much of the paint pulled with the stencil.

For the second time, I cut the stencils into 11 parts instead of three sections. It took hours, but I wasn’t taking any chances. Only a few spots I need to fix.

The cabinet and head are repopulated, slowly checking stuff while I wait to drop the playfield.

I elected to not replace the floor of the game… I didn’t want to screw it up. Instead, I sanded and painted. The back was totally waterlogged, but the fiberglass resin worked great.
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#120 2 years ago

Looks great!

#121 2 years ago

Thanks bud! Fired her up and she’s working great. I have a few stuck switches giving me crazy points, but I can track those down.

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#122 2 years ago

Before:
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After:
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#123 2 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Almost ready.
The cabinet and head are primed and sprayed. The head stencils went okay, but the cabinet stencils went really bad. I had to re-do them because much of the paint pulled with the stencil.
For the second time, I cut the stencils into 11 parts instead of three sections. It took hours, but I wasn’t taking any chances. Only a few spots I need to fix.
The cabinet and head are repopulated, slowly checking stuff while I wait to drop the playfield.
I elected to not replace the floor of the game… I didn’t want to screw it up. Instead, I sanded and painted. The back was totally waterlogged, but the fiberglass resin worked great.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What did you use for gold out of curiosity?

I did gold on my Flash Gordon and lightly cleared those sections before pulling the stencils and it came out well.

#124 2 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

What did you use for gold out of curiosity?
I did gold on my Flash Gordon and lightly cleared those sections before pulling the stencils and it came out well.

I used three different golds.

The Rustoleum metallic bright finish was okay. I used that for the head. Very sharp edges, though.

The Krylon Fusion can rot in hell. Dried right away and cost me another week and a set of stencils.

The Rustoleum universal was awesome. That’s on the cabinet. Best of the bunch and the cheapest.
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#125 2 years ago

What I discovered in testing;

1) the rustoleum looks the nicest but when I rub gold flake transfers to my fingers.

2) krylon is the 2nd, not as nice shine as number one, but no transfer.

3 ) the rustoleum advance formula went on thin, no transfer, but good gloss with less shine than #2

I went with #1 and cleared it which fixed the transfer issue and then compounded the cabinet to knock down the paint edges.

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#126 2 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

What I discovered in testing;
1) the rustoleum looks the nicest but when I rub gold flake transfers to my fingers.
2) krylon is the 2nd, not as nice shine as number one, but no transfer.
3 ) the rustoleum advance formula went on thin, no transfer, but good gloss with less shine than #2
I went with #1 and cleared it which fixed the transfer issue and then compounded the cabinet to knock down the paint edges. [quoted image][quoted image]

That looks great! I debated sanding and clearing, but to be honest, we just moved to smaller house and I had taken over half the new house with Medusa workbench shit. I (and the family) was ready to be done.

#127 2 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Pinrestore sells them (solder lugs). I 100% stole this idea from HEP.
Bottom two flippers rebuilt and attached. Lamp sockets arrived today, so I’ll finish the bare wire.
[quoted image]

Looking great!! Getting ready to do a Galaxy PF swap, and am interested in the lugs for the #44 bulb sockets. What is the part size number? #4? #6? Thanks!!

-Dan

#128 2 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Looking great!! Getting ready to do a Galaxy PF swap, and am interested in the lugs for the #44 bulb sockets. What is the part size number? #4? #6? Thanks!!
-Dan

Thanks!

The lamp socket is A2916 on pbresource.

I purchased the lugs to solder the ground braid on pinrestore, but you can find them anywhere. They were one size. Check my Fathom thread for some other options and ideas.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fathom-playfield-swap
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#129 2 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Looking great!! Getting ready to do a Galaxy PF swap, and am interested in the lugs for the #44 bulb sockets. What is the part size number? #4? #6? Thanks!!
-Dan

The lugs are #6
Mouser
534-7312
MFG Part No: 7312
Keystone Electronics

#130 2 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

The lugs are #6
Mouser
534-7312
MFG Part No: 7312
Keystone Electronics

Figures, just put in a mouser order an hour ago.

#131 2 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Figures, just put in a mouser order an hour ago.

If you call them quickly they can amend the order as long as you didn’t pay by PayPal

Customer Service is there until 8pm cst (800) 346-6873

#132 2 years ago

Thank you so much, guys! Pinside is awesome! Appreciate all the help

#133 2 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

If you call them quickly they can amend the order as long as you didn’t pay by PayPal
Customer Service is there until 8pm cst (800) 346-6873

Nah, just heave them the cart for my next go around. I already have some on hand from a different vendor and wont need more for a month or three.

#134 2 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

The lugs are #6
Mouser
534-7312
MFG Part No: 7312
Keystone Electronics

Definitely doing this on my next early 80's PF swap.

1 year later
#135 7 months ago

So excited to be the new proud owner of this amazing restoration! The results of this work are so impressive! I'll send pictures when she arrives in her new home. I have a spot picked out right next to the "Mistress - BRK".

#136 7 months ago

Glad it’s going to a good home. This was a labor of love, for sure.

3 weeks later
#137 6 months ago

Arrived safe and is set up in her new home!
Great experience working with Kyle to make this happen!

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