(Topic ID: 292694)

Medusa playfield swap


By Mudflaps

12 days ago

Topic Heartbeat


Topic Stats

  • 47 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
E0EC2D97-F0AF-4EC5-8ACE-6C93BBE7BBBC (resized).jpeg
0A17FDDC-EECC-481E-90DC-896A549D23FC (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
image (resized).jpg
36FF07CA-D1B0-40EE-8C77-347656424C10 (resized).jpeg
FB2EFCB1-A696-44CD-B86E-C0EF228941CE (resized).jpeg
800F3F2B-F016-4513-A9D9-CC822DE1883A (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpg
CE3B9C3A-A585-46E8-9A2F-9C69682C27AF (resized).jpeg
D7F34426-532D-4B39-8FB7-37F3509ACADF (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
01882C64-FD16-4588-9A30-04C243480D6C (resized).jpeg
C5290F9A-878D-47B0-88B1-38FB4DC0B4DD (resized).jpeg

#1 12 days ago

This thread will document my second playfield swap, Medusa. My recent Fathom playfield swap went well, so I’m going to take advantage of having lessons learned fresh in my mind.

Compared to Fathom, which was in good shape, this game is kind of a hot mess. Tons of hacks and the flippers are garbage.

I have a Silver CPR playfield, new plastics, apron, drop targets, flipper rebuild kits, #44 lamp sockets, posts, etc.

I also scored a NOS kickout part that’s hard to come by used by Shield of the Gods. Someone installed a slingshot mech which actually worked fairly well, but I’ll trying to keep this section original.

Like before, I labeled everything under the playfield. This game has less mechs than Fathom but a pretty complex flipper system. I’m nervous about rebuilding the entire mech and all flippers, but too late now.

After the wire harness is off, everything goes in the wash and I pre-drill the CPR playfield.

Playfield:
C53BAC6D-1DB7-4B76-A3A6-2B6560A6451F (resized).jpeg

Labels:
820EFB7A-DD9C-4B4B-8BDE-3891CCB0E4B0 (resized).jpeg

Disconnected mechs so far:
310CA5D8-291B-4E7D-93C5-55380024B8DC (resized).jpeg

CPR playfield:
8697A43A-89FB-4928-8F00-1D026DE7FCC3 (resized).jpeg

New parts:
AE5B861E-FAAE-4A4C-8663-59821EA4A110 (resized).jpeg

NOS part:
image (resized).jpg

I expect this one should take me a month or so barring any disasters.

#2 12 days ago

If you have any questions about the Zipper mech, let me know. I rebuilt one for a Bally Fireball that was a total mess.

#3 12 days ago
Quoted from Skidave:

If you have any questions about the Zipper mech, let me know. I rebuilt one for a Bally Fireball that was a total mess.

That would be very helpful, thanks. I’m using pbresource Bally rebuild kits, not original, but hopefully more reliable. I’m sure I’ll be reaching out!

#4 12 days ago

Started your Medusa rails yesterday.

#5 12 days ago

That original doesn't look to bad.

Good luck - will follow.

#6 12 days ago

Harness is free. Next is removing the rest of the mechs and cleaning.

DAECB18F-501C-47E2-96AC-51C13557D285 (resized).jpegF1C6912D-7B21-403A-ACE5-BC4A8DC206D4 (resized).jpeg
#7 12 days ago

Thats one complex playfield, I'm sure it will work out well for you.

#8 12 days ago

Following too, good luck, keep the pics coming.

- Jim

#9 11 days ago

THanks for posting. Just curious, I used what I believe is the same blue tape there for labeling a swap, and I had a number seem to just flake off. Did you get any of that ? Perhaps mine was generic and not scotch..
Good luck

#10 11 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

THanks for posting. Just curious, I used what I believe is the same blue tape there for labeling a swap, and I had a number seem to just flake off. Did you get any of that ? Perhaps mine was generic and not scotch..
Good luck

It’s 3M painters tape. It survived the wash last time with all labels intact, no problem.

#11 11 days ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

It’s 3M painters tape. It survived the wash last time with all labels intact, no problem.

There’s my error. Was using generic masking. Thank you

#12 10 days ago

Slow going. T-nuts installed and about 30% of the lamp sockets.

Wire harness and mechs go in the wash hopefully tomorrow.

Because the #44 lamp sockets take up more real estate, I had to move some of the pilot holes to accommodate.
1926E87D-B94E-4B4F-A63E-2CB310775C72 (resized).jpeg31FB1B2A-06BB-4144-BFD4-C238B2ED95BF (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpg
#13 9 days ago

Mechs and wire harness washed. Most of the sockets are installed.

Next up, clean and rebuild the drop targets. Rebuilding the flippers will take some time.

2223AF72-9255-4090-AE6F-8DA347A41203 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#14 9 days ago

Looks great already! Most problems I had were related to the CPR playfield being thicker than the original.

Like the bonus light bar bracket that wouldnt fit around CPR pf + Reese rails..

#15 9 days ago
Quoted from kursiv:

Looks great already! Most problems I had were related to the CPR playfield being thicker than the original.
Like the bonus light bar bracket that wouldnt fit around CPR pf + Reese rails..

Good point on the light bar. It was pretty tight pulling off, so that’s a problem I’ll face when I get closer.

Reese rails should be here in the next few weeks.

#16 7 days ago

I’m short three lamp sockets which prevents me from finishing the bare wire. Yet another order with Steve...

In the meanwhile, I’m still cleaning mechs but attached a few to the playfield. Once I get the missing sockets, I’ll finish the wire and start soldering.

59159307-3BCE-40E1-9081-551489F50DD5 (resized).jpeg
#17 7 days ago

Man I wish they'd make more lamp boards for these games.

#18 6 days ago

Replaced gross drop targets and standup targets with minty new ones

Old:
BAC6E5E2-9154-4A6A-B578-02019BDCF561 (resized).jpeg
Shiny:
F1B65D85-88CD-44FA-B877-8D5E43101E92 (resized).jpeg

#19 6 days ago

Thanks for detailing your efforts. It seems to be coming along nicely.
Did you get any additional clear coating done to the repro silver playfield?

I have a Silver to change over on my Medusa as well. Following with keen interest. I get nervous when it comes to removing and cleaning the harness.

I was thinking of using those new little LED PCB's instead of any lamp sockets. Those #555 metal sockets are a pain.

When the time comes, can you be real descriptive when it comes to the bonus light bar mount at the back of the playfield.

Oh, and let us know how many all up and where you got your #44 metal sockets from (suspect Marcospec or Pinball life).

regards,
Cliff.

#20 6 days ago
Quoted from pintuck:

Thanks for detailing your efforts. It seems to be coming along nicely.
Did you get any additional clear coating done to the repro silver playfield?
I have a Silver to change over on my Medusa as well. Following with keen interest. I get nervous when it comes to removing and cleaning the harness.
I was thinking of using those new little LED PCB's instead of any lamp sockets. Those #555 metal sockets are a pain.
When the time comes, can you be real descriptive when it comes to the bonus light bar mount at the back of the playfield.
Oh, and let us know how many all up and where you got your #44 metal sockets from (suspect Marcospec or Pinball life).
regards,
Cliff.

No additional clearcoating. The clear from CPR is just fine, though some may want to take the extra time and expense to send it off. It was a Silver from 2016, so I think it's had enough time to cure.

Removing the harness isn't bad as long as you take lots of pictures, label everything, keep 1/4" wire to each socket and keep the donor playfield handy. Straight to the wash to get rid of 40 years of gunk and you're good to go.

I picked up #44 lamp sockets from Steve at pbresource. I can order on Monday morning and they're at my house on Tuesday.

http://www.pbresource.com/sockets.html

You'll need A2913, A2914, A2916 and A1363. I ordered 5 more than I thought I'd need and I still ran out. The game uses a ton of A2916. You'll need maybe 30' of bare wire.

Everything has been straightforward so far, but I'm still apprehensive about the four flipper rebuilds combined with the zipper flipper mech. The game was hacked to death, and I'm downgrading the lower flipper to 70's mechs. The upper mech coils were missing the sleeve, so I bought new coils (same as lower flippers). I try to only fix one thing at a time to help troubleshooting, but in addition to re-populating the game, there will be a lot of new parts. We'll see what happens when I plug it in...

#21 6 days ago

One flipper rebuilt, three to go.

Old:
74C9F362-BEDB-4B1E-B7EC-E92C97475437 (resized).jpeg
New:
0FEA0B80-89F2-4DCA-8844-179D0262C9F0 (resized).jpeg

#22 6 days ago

I see you got the sockets that have the 2 contacts at the top, very smart for this swap since the bottom part is so tight in there. When I had a Medusa I used to look under there and say "man, this would be the hardest PF to swap because everything is so tight and exact"

#23 5 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

I see you got the sockets that have the 2 contacts at the top, very smart for this swap since the bottom part is so tight in there. When I had a Medusa I used to look under there and say "man, this would be the hardest PF to swap because everything is so tight and exact"

Pinrestore sells them (solder lugs). I 100% stole this idea from HEP.

Bottom two flippers rebuilt and attached. Lamp sockets arrived today, so I’ll finish the bare wire.

image (resized).jpg
#24 5 days ago

Ground braid done and soldered. All lamps done. Pop bumpers and the dreaded zipper flipper mech are next.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#25 5 days ago

Your sockets looked like they have lugs at the top already not requiring the tab at the bottom... no?

one of the top lugs isn't connected to the socket and is just a tie point?

#26 5 days ago

Don't be afraid of the Zipper mech. I would suggest new nyliners and nylon washers between the flipper plates. They are always beat to hell and back. Steve should have the small nyliners and I sourced the washers (2 sizes) from an online supplier.

Steve has the flipper rebuild kit for the flippers on the Zipper mech; the usual plungers, links, springs etc.

#27 5 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Your sockets looked like they have lugs at the top already not requiring the tab at the bottom... no?
one of the top lugs isn't connected to the socket and is just a tie point?

The 2916 sockets have two lugs. One of them isn’t necessary. The bare wire attaches to C (with the solder lug) and the control wire attaches to A.
1530AC2F-47C8-476E-8781-ED9328F6750C (resized).jpeg

There are a few sockets without the bare wire connected by a bridge due to mechs in the way. It’s a crowded playfield.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#28 5 days ago

Zipper flipper mech disassembled. Will clean and install flipper rebuild kit with new coils.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Question for the smart kids... can I add a few drops of lubricant to the metal on metal portions?image (resized).jpg

#29 5 days ago

Yes, a very tiny amount. I actually used a small amount of Suoerlube, not the oil.

#30 5 days ago

Back together and cleaned. I’ll finish the plungers and switches tomorrow. Everything seems to work properly, no extra parts.

One of the screws was stripped, so that cost me 20 minutes of cursing and dremeling.
image (resized).jpg

The mech was getting caught on the slingshot screw. By the look of the existing wear on the metal, this seems to be preexisting. I removed the screw, and everything works.
image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg
#31 5 days ago

Fumbled my way through the punch tool to assemble the upper flippers. Everything seems to function well.

There is a lot of play in the zipper flipper mech, so I’m not sure if that’s by design or I just replicated hacks that were already on the game.

Pop bumpers are next, then the wire harness.

01882C64-FD16-4588-9A30-04C243480D6C (resized).jpegC5290F9A-878D-47B0-88B1-38FB4DC0B4DD (resized).jpeg
#32 5 days ago

What play are you referring to regarding the Zipper?

When it closes, there should be just a small amount of travel where the nylon ramp catches the lever that keeps it closed. Another words, the ramp has a small amount of movement towards the large coil that pulls the Zipper closed and the edge of the locking lever (when it is closed).

There is tolerance in all the pieces. It was probably tighter when new and didn't have thousands of movements. The wings that hold the coils have some lash before they close. And the slide has a bit if lash too. Have the whole thing clean and operating smoothly is key.

#33 5 days ago
Quoted from Skidave:

What play are you referring to regarding the Zipper?
When it closes, there should be just a small amount of travel where the nylon ramp catches the lever that keeps it closed. Another words, the ramp has a small amount of movement towards the large coil that pulls the Zipper closed and the edge of the locking lever (when it is closed).
There is tolerance in all the pieces. It was probably tighter when new and didn't have thousands of movements. The wings that hold the coils have some lash before they close. And the slide has a bit if lash too. Have the whole thing clean and operating smoothly is key.

The whole mech is not super tight like a normal flipper. The zipper flippers have about 1/4” of play up and down on the playfield. Not sure if this is by design or I’m missing some washers.

Pulling up:
image (resized).jpg

Pushing down:
image (resized).jpg

#34 4 days ago

Ready for the wire harness:
D7F34426-532D-4B39-8FB7-37F3509ACADF (resized).jpeg

And boom:
CE3B9C3A-A585-46E8-9A2F-9C69682C27AF (resized).jpeg

#35 4 days ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

The whole mech is not super tight like a normal flipper. The zipper flippers have about 1/4” of play up and down on the playfield. Not sure if this is by design or I’m missing some washers.

That's correct, the zipper flipper is a bit loose even when it works perfectly. Don't worry about that part.

Make sure that at no point the mini flippers get anywhere near the playfield or your scratched up clear and rub marks will make you really really sad. Put washers under them to make sure.

#36 4 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

That's correct, the zipper flipper is a bit loose even when it works perfectly. Don't worry about that part.
Make sure that at no point the mini flippers get anywhere near the playfield or your scratched up clear and rub marks will make you really really sad. Put washers under them to make sure.

Thanks, and I’ve already noticed a subtle slant (and drag) with the flippers that could be fixed with an extra washer. I’ll finish the wire harness and make sure the top flippers don’t drag when it’s right side up.

#37 3 days ago

Slow going. I have about 40% of the underside done. Another order with Steve at pbresource today because I keep discovering broken stuff.

Progress:
800F3F2B-F016-4513-A9D9-CC822DE1883A (resized).jpeg
WTF:
image (resized).jpg

#38 1 day ago

It’s starting to get very crowded. I’m about 75% done with the underside. I had to rebuild the slingshots and the pop bumpers will be a challenge.

36FF07CA-D1B0-40EE-8C77-347656424C10 (resized).jpegFB2EFCB1-A696-44CD-B86E-C0EF228941CE (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpg
#39 1 day ago

Reeeal packed!

#40 1 day ago

It’s a pain of a swap

#41 22 hours ago

Could you take a few pictures of this? I'm missing this part and might be able to recreate something to work.

pasted_image (resized).png
#42 21 hours ago
Quoted from Pinball_Basement:

Could you take a few pictures of this? I'm missing this part and might be able to recreate something to work.
[quoted image]

Yeah, I’ll get to that part within the next few days and will post pictures.

I finished the corner with rollovers and that just sucked. No room and tons of wires.

I tested the GI and found a bad socket and some wire bridges I forgot, but everything worked for the most part.

The awful corner:
0A17FDDC-EECC-481E-90DC-896A549D23FC (resized).jpeg

Testing GI:
E0EC2D97-F0AF-4EC5-8ACE-6C93BBE7BBBC (resized).jpeg

#43 19 hours ago

That looks like....fun.

#44 18 hours ago
Quoted from Methos:

That looks like....fun.

Ha, someone’s idea of fun...

All GI wired. The top left GI doesn’t come on with the rest, but when I tie power to that area, the four lights work. Are they tied to a separate connection? I am not a master of reading schematics.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#45 18 hours ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Yeah, I’ll get to that part within the next few days and will post pictures.
I finished the corner with rollovers and that just sucked. No room and tons of wires.
I tested the GI and found a bad socket and some wire bridges I forgot, but everything worked for the most part.
The awful corner:
[quoted image]
Testing GI:
[quoted image]

Want a tip from someone who uses a lot of LEDS?

1) don't use clear dome units on star rollovers, the light goes out instead of up.

2) if you must use dome, get frosted.

3) led on a bendable stalk works best for star roll overs, I get mine from Comet. You can get them right in there so all the light is directed where you want it to be.

There is a number of places clear looks great, indirect use in an insert usually isn't the best.

#46 18 hours ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Want a tip from someone who uses a lot of LEDS?
1) don't use clear dome units on star rollovers, the light goes out instead of up.
2) if you must use dome, get frosted.
3) led on a bendable stalk works best for star roll overs, I get mine from Comet. You can get them right in there so all the light is directed where you want it to be.
There is a number of places clear looks great, indirect use in an insert usually isn't the best.

Thanks, and I was actually going to order flex tips for that reason. I used clear dome LEDs for Fathom and the light was super dim. Yet another order with Comet...

#47 18 hours ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Thanks, and I was actually going to order flex tips for that reason. I used clear dome LEDs for Fathom and the light was super dim. Yet another order with Comet...

I figured you might want to address it before putting the playfield in, working on my Medusa was a bitch.

Red flex led look fantastic under the flipper inserts.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside