(Topic ID: 65964)

Medusa Owners Club & Restorations Fans Also Welcome


By Hellfire

5 years ago



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  • 546 posts
  • 102 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 31 days ago by Profgrif
  • Topic is favorited by 38 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

I fugured i might as well start a medusa owners group as well.
Not quite as elusive as fathoms but still took me long enough to get one Thanks to another pinsider.
This is a pretty cool machine dont seem to get the love of Fathom, Centaur FG etc but still a very nice machine.

#2 5 years ago

Heres pics of mine I just swapped the p030.JPGlayfield out on.019.JPG016.JPG017.JPG018.JPG033.JPG

#5 5 years ago

Yeah i modified mine to have reverb this isnt the board in medusa but another built the same with reverb like I did in medusa.medusa sound.jpg

#7 5 years ago

Well it was a pretty direct swap the replacement PF was complete but still needed alot of work mechs, wiring etc were hacked up and needed quite a few parts changed over.

#10 5 years ago

That medusa has some potential

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinballgeek:

Where did you get a nice looking Playfield from since you did a swap

I had a buddy get a headless medusa and black knight in one of his purchase deals and knew i was looking for a playfield so i bought the headless children from him. got lucky more than anything.. I bought both complete lowers

I can restore the other PF I have just hasnt been much ambition or time.

Quoted from pinster68:

You would think so, but then lift the pf up - yikes!

Honestly medusa isnt that bad the rear drop target and light bar assemblies unscrew unplug, then its not so bad.
Elektra and Vector machines are worse but they did fit quite a bit of stuff on a single level playfield.

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

I'm good with it ... makes me feel like I got my money's worth ... and makes me feel today's Stern pins are 'so little for so much'.

I couldnt agree more. even some of the WPC games are so dinky it seems in comparison the old ballys are built like tanks.
Its seems in the SS Bally pins they focused on more gameplay features than they did on toys like the newer games.
Ide like to see what these new sterns will look like in 30 years lol.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

I get mine on Monday, can't wait!

You wont be dissapointed one of my favorite if not my favorite SS bally. when its polished up waxed and working its a harder game. since i minwaxed and shopped the new pf i cant hardly break a million anymore.
Either the game is that good now or i just gotten suck that bad a playing lol. i hardly get to play and enjoy them much anymore its usualy more work than play now for me restoring them.

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Think of all the CPU customizations possible with old pins to modernize the rules, sounds, etc.. Think of Paragon amped up with digital sound, additional rules, light shows and callouts. I'm pretty good with sticking to original, but it's fun to think of the possibilities.

Well Medusa sounds pretty good already but im with you. there is always room for some improvements.
its nice to have some functional mads instead of the typical toy mods everyone seems to gravitate twards .
but then again thinking up and making mods is fun to I like to have different stuff than everyone else.

1 week later
#24 5 years ago

I had/have some of these targets but only one green one left but it already has a crack on the bottom so prolly wont last long if used but im keeping it as a back up for my medusa.
BAA did have the amber ones about 4 years ago but think i bought them out at the time. my Medusa had the original red rectangular one yet but i had to convert the 2 sides to greens i had to be right.

I suppose the best way to get them is to contact marco and make requests they are asking for unique items to start making and carrying. Opaque green plastic one peice can or were available at BAA prolly a bit more accurate than the red. but the standard transparent green rivited ones are closest you will get to original atm.

i been trying to talk marco into making these someone is making the opaque ones still for older games. If i can get them to have a bunch made i will convert all my machines to them they look so much nicer than the others.
None are for sale but here are some of the extras i have from an elektra. i offered to lend them to marco etc to get them reproduced.targets.jpg

#26 5 years ago

Here are some Pictures of the original style medusa top stand up targets closer up if this helps you out.001.JPG002.JPG005.JPG

#28 5 years ago

Yeah they dont make em but they can custom order them if they know who makes them.
Ive also been after them to get the 3 1/8" translucent red lane guides for centaur as well.

2 weeks later
#58 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

4 - Is there any practical way to pull the playfield to access those back targets? My brother was in town & helped me last week, but now that I have more targets to swap, I haven't a clue how to manhandle the pf out & get it onto the forward set of posts! I see why it's so heavy--the PF is

best way to change the back targets is to tilt the playfield up against the backbox and remove the 7 drop target bank they are mounted to. it even has a convenient connector to fully remove it from the machine. the 3 targets mount on the backside. 7 screws unplug and it is ready to remove from the machine. I would also suggest installing your leds or changing the 2 yellow arrow and 1-3 green insert lamps at this time much easier when the assembly is out.
Since you have it that far apart you might as well remove the 4 screws under the PF and change the bulbs that go behind the 3 stationary targets you are replacing.

Quoted from jasonbar:

11 - After a few weeks of uneventful play, had the back-most fuse in the transformer assembly blow when my brother was having a fantastic game. Essentially froze the game. Put in a fresh fuse & no problems since. Weird. Any thoughts?

Im assuming you are talking about the 5A fuse 12V unregulated fuse for the 5 volt logic supply if this is blowing its either the 4 large diodes on the rectifier board check for burning on the board under these . and/or the TO-3 5v regulator lm-323 on the sol. control board Ide replace them both and the 15000uf regulator capacitor.

#59 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

14 - Is there any adjustment/shimming technique to getting the under-playfield display window sweetly coplanar to the wood PF?

Bally installed the angle brackets to optimize the players view of the display without the angle it dont look right.
and if its tight against the window it can damage the art on the unabtainable pf window..

But i might suggest doing this remove the window and remove the red film color on the window the red has fogged up and gotten hazy looking like crap. then add transparent red vinyl to the display glass itself. pics dont show it right becouse of exposure but is nice clear and sharp after this.014.JPG017.JPG

1 week later
#63 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

I'm not sure how I'll singlehandedly reinstall this assembly into the PF--that will probably require another set of hands. The prop rod doesn't hold the PF up very far when poked into either of the 2 counterbores on the underside of the PF--I did discover that, with just a little sideways deflection of the prop rod, you can instead poke it into one of the many holes on the big steel housing that surrounds the right bank of 4 drop targets. I am prepared to receive criticisms for doing something dumb and/or compliments for being a genius & thinking of this.

You realize on these machines Fathom, Centaur, Medusa ect this is why there are second PF hinges on the inside of the cabinets stand playfield strait up then lift the playfield up off the rear hing brackets then move playfield to the hing mounts in the center of the cabinet the you can tilt the playield against the backbox and it will stay there to work on it with ease. Just slide the hing pins into the front mounts when you move playfield.

#66 5 years ago

Your lucky i have an extra drop target bank for one out atm. but i did steal a switch or so to replace some of mine but the ground wire in the back 108.JPGdoes connect all seven target switches together and the 2 missing wires have a orange and brown going to them109.JPG110.JPG

#76 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

You realize that I noticed those extra hinge pins but that I can't even manage to budge that PF upward vertically a little because I'm a weakling? It took me & my brother much grunting to do it together when he visited a few weeks ago. This PF is *full*! I can lift my Meteor PF up & out quite easily, but I don't have a prayer of lifting Medusa's.

Its not that heavy its just a matter of lifting the PF up strait as not to bind on the insides of the cabinet.

Quoted from bigduke6:

Yea, I watched Hellfire toss games around by himself without an effort. I wouldnt attempt it on my best day.

These ballys are light its just a matter of having the right technique but who knows the guys in michigan cant believe the way i move around and set them up alone either. lol

Quoted from stevevt:

Yeah. I don't know what I was thinking, except maybe confusing it with Centaur. I'd really like to know more about the drop targets on the upper playfield.

Drop targets keep changing until you get all 7 up to conquer Mt. olympus if you hit the green targets it adds zipper flipper closed time the red target subtracts time. Honestly i think the game play and objectives are better than Centaur. centaur get systematic after awhile. it dosnt have the more complex rules or time limits like Medusa.

1 month later
#93 5 years ago

Thanks Stu &CPR for getting the Medusa Playfields almost ready to produce I can happily say i dont have to restore my playfield now

#95 5 years ago

Ill still need to snad down the CPR playfield pain in all the wood outlines Just a thing I like to eliminate and give one of my custom clearcoat formulas and it will be realy fast

#97 5 years ago

Eventualy ill get around to restoring the nice playfield i currently have in my medusa the second headless medusa i have well I kinda gave up on it seems backboxes arent that easy to come by lol so i said the hell with trying to salvage the second medusa

1 week later
#102 5 years ago

They should be .047 50v suggest upgrading to monolithics. it can be cut off and still work decent I suggest a bulk lot on Ebay 50-100x pretty cheap radio shack will cost $$

1 week later
#108 5 years ago

The zipper flipper parts are available at marcos you need to look up em flipper parts they have the bushing pawls plungers etc.

#111 5 years ago

Ok guys well marcos game parts lists are crap they dont have half the parts for each game listed you need to look up under playfield machinery or parts for other items needed here is the rebuild kit you guys need for the zipper flippers

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/BFKIT74

#113 5 years ago

i havnt seen any rebuild for the zipper assembly itself it seems them parts would have to be obtained seperately at a hardware store etc I was considering nylon for when i get around to restoring my machine.

#117 5 years ago

The kit in the marco link is the right kit for the flippers assemblies same bushings, plungers, pawls, coils use same standard nylon coils sleeves as the standard coils. the Zipper mech honesly is fine with a good cleanup and regrease

like i said there realy isnt a zipper mech rebuild kit but i would prolly go with nylon washers etc instead of the metal washers that or bronze washers should smooth out the assembly nicely. the zipper mech is kinda rare and well its one of them things that would take a bit of leg work to rebuild or upgrade but the flipper parts are the most imprtant at least they are available as a kit.

The EM flipper pawl and plungers one is also required for rebuilding the ball save device on Silverball Mania as well.

3 weeks later
#121 5 years ago
Quoted from blanner22:

how much do these medusa go for in half decent shape? Also does anyone know where I can get some kind of stencil kit for the playfield? I know you can get one for the outside its worn a good bit up top. Also last night playing my top right zipper flipper stuck open and reset the machine and stayed up with power off so mech issue lift the PF up and could not get the plunger back down in the coil, so I guess the coil is shot and swollen, dead short as it resets every time I hit the right flipper button. so I removed it form the circuit and pin works normally now without one zipper flipper. waiting on a new coil and sleeve etc.

The coil is prolly fine the plunger is prolly mushroomed and binding.
Some insert decal sets are made for the classic ballys but unfortunately not Embryon, Vector, Medusa, Spectrum, Elektra etc. there are no such thing as stencils for a playfield if you want to airbrush you have to lay frisket and cut everything out you want to airbrush.

#124 5 years ago

I think ive only been able to get all 5 like once or twice sofar

#126 5 years ago

Its all timing you have have just the right speed and shoot at just the right time to get all 5 its very hard skill shot.

1 week later
#130 5 years ago

Prolly one of the EOS switches either the one on the zipper flipper or or the outter EOS switch on the lower flipper on the same side that powers up the upper flipper after the lower EOS switch is disconnected .
So you need to check 2 of the EOS switches.

#135 5 years ago
Quoted from blanner22:

anyone know the part number for coil stops for medusa? Also is there any tests I can do on the displays instead of replacing it? my player 3 isn't working, not a big deal but I would like to have everything working

Is there any orange glow on the display glass at all on P3 display?

#138 5 years ago

well it either the glass or 4543 decoder ic

#143 5 years ago

LOL
Have you checked the J3 top right connector on the Sol. control board for a burnt pin? or the connectors on the rectifer board?

#148 5 years ago

take a fine file and file new flat clean surfaces on the switch pads if you have enough pad left to do it.
Marco does have the switches you would need the single with spacer then by the secondary n.o. one for the secondary most commonly they are two seperate switches instead of a single stack anyway.

#154 5 years ago

Heres pics of mine and i changed out my zipper mech from my old pf to my replacement one so Im giving you pics from my003-950.JPG extra zipper assembly so you can make sure yours is right.
Also I took pics of the lower flipper wiring as well.004-107.JPG005-249.JPG006.JPG013.JPG014.JPG009-875.JPG010-934.JPG

#156 5 years ago

yes change the decoder chip but first i would swap to another spot to see if it works properly in another player posision and swap that display to the P3 position see if it works properly then or not. if the p3 acts the same with a different display you might need to change the ic that controls the data wire

#159 5 years ago
Quoted from blanner22:

Hellfire my bottom right flipper the black green and orange is reverse on the NO contacts everything else is the same on bottom flippers

No worries on the lower right secondary EOS secondary is right right dont matter which way they are connected as long as they both goto the same switch. same thing applies to the left red & green secondary wires the switches arent polarized.
My EOS switches arent the best either but they work fine with any luck they will last until i get around to restoring my medusa. I am kinda interested though i forgot about the second set of eos switches on the zippers kinda odd usualy bally upper flippers only have a single eos wonder what else its disconnecting. Its a HV switch not a LV switch so ill have to see what else its hooked up to.

#160 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinballgeek:

I have read up about it but don't wanna make a hash brown of it so I came to ask from the experts
(Q tips, white vinegar and pure alcohol I think that's correct)
Any help would be great

Scrape the traces clean with a round tip scalpel and use acid based prumbers flux and retin the traces with a saturated desoldering braid. the vinegar method is useful on alkalyne batteries but bally had lead acid batteries instead. if you want to neutralize it use a liquid antacid like pepto bismal. but i find ammonia cleaning then acid flux retinning works the best.

Here are 2 acid damaged boards im working on ive used this process with. 016-515.JPG018-144.JPG

3 weeks later
#176 5 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

When mine close the ball can still just barely slip through.

Something is wrong with your zipper mech. then it should not allow the ball through when the flippers are moved together unless you have the mini flippers activated to let it through.

1 month later
#180 5 years ago

I had my Medusa and fathom at the MGC last weekend if anyone got a chance to play them

036.JPG004-919.JPG008-853.JPG

#182 5 years ago

Yep thanks Stu it was money well spent

5 months later
#186 4 years ago

heat gun on these old ballys is the only way, the cold method is to risky to try and is safer only on later machines. use goo gone to melt adhesive and clean residue off with naptha after.

Quoted from Kevlar:Time to resurrect this thread as I am waiting on a medusa arrival. It has mylar on the playfield which I will consider removing when I get a good look at it. Has anyone removed mylar from a medusa? if so hot or cold method? and which were the troublesome areas if any?

4 months later
#194 4 years ago

i cant wait either

1 month later
#211 4 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

Anyone in here want to leave the club?

Not me !!

#215 4 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

I guess I have dual membership to the club!

Thinking tigerlaw will only let you have single membership due to Pinside rules but he will prolly help you hes a mod afterall lol.

#217 4 years ago

The drop target assembly needs to be dropped it comes out rather easy and while you have that out you might as well reach back and replace the lights behind them with leds they are a pain to get at otherwise BAA and Marco sell targets that match the closest but they wont cast the light like the originals did.

2 months later
#266 4 years ago

Unfortunatly my medusa isnt for sale but looks good in the lineup 001.JPG014.JPG014.JPG

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